Problem With New Yanmar??

[SailorBob]

"Thats what my plans are.......But first I want to put the new sending unit in there and see what that does...........But I'll still put my gauge in, just a little later............I'm having a ****-of-a time trying to find that metric adapter I need....................Sunpro discontinued the CP7574 metric adapter kit..............

Travis"

I bought that kit when I installed the gauge on my 1700. Funny thing is that you only need one of the adapters in there.

 

[Normmm]

Is there a guage set built for a metric engine. That would have the sice connector needed. Get the size and then contact the auto parts. If it reads Celsius you can adapt.

 

[Travis_R]

Well here it is again................

I got the headlight bulb and new sending unit yesterday.....................I want to thank Stuart for sending me an extra bulb..........All I needed was one.........He sent 2......Thank you...............Both my headlights work on low and high beam now.....................

Now the new sending unit is a different story..............The one he sent me was a good bit shorter than the original..........I don't know if it means anything, but it did have "China" stamped on the package it was in.....................Anyway, I put the new unit in and could not get the temp light to come on.............After a few minutes, I found that the bulb that fits in the instrument panel was blown............Boy was I furious...................Upon finding this out, the "test" that I did with my neighbor's 4' brush hog was no good..................The bulb was blown when I used the cutter..................THATS why it didn't come on when I hooked up my 5' bush hog the same day.........................................I "borrowed" the "oil" light bulb from the tractor to use for the temp bulb.................................I screwed the new unit in, turned the key on, and the temp light was on...............I then started the engine, which I gotta say starts very easily, and the light stayed on......................Its like the New Temp Sensor is "stuck" in the on position.................

I have a tractor that I'm scared to use because it may run hot if I use it................I'm not going to take a chance on tearing the tractor up over this "small" issue.........I like it too much...........I would just like to be able to get some seat time without the problem of a darn little ole red light.............I guess its a good thing I'm not using it to make my living doing commercial work.................

Look, I really like the little Yannie....................but it has not been right ever since I got it (talking about the sending unit/overheating issue).............I just want it fixed..............Thats all.........................As far as I know, everything else is fine..............



OH, How can a person tell if the correct radiator cap is on the radiator? Mine has a 6.0 OR 9.0 stamped on it and is gold in color........I don't remember which is correct out of the two numbers......................Could this be the wrong cap or does the number mean anything????

Travis R

 

[Gizmo36]

Tell them at RCO tractor's to overnight you a new sending unit and a bulb so you don't have to wait two or three day's on it.

 

[normde2001]

It's time to stop throwing parts at the problem and do some troubleshooting. Find out why the new sensor is keeping the light on. Check for continuity between the center post and the body. Put both sensors in a pan of salt or sugar water with a deep fry thermometer, and see at what temp they get continuity. Any cap between 6-12 psi that fits is ok, as long as it is a good one. I would just replace it.

 

[Normmm]

Turn the problem over to RCO.

 

[pruntyc]

I agree, turn the problem over to rco, they are the one that said they would guarantee it. Why should you have to fight it, as you just got it?

 

[HGM]

If its still under the waranty, by all means have them handle it... This would be my recomendation regardless of who sold it to you, I forgot you just got it.. You bought a tractor, not a project.. This is why my dealer swapped me out of the first one, I just didnt trust it anymore..

 

[Travis_R]

I FINALLY GOT MY TEMPERATURE GAUGE INSTALLED TODAY..................

O.K............I just got off the tractor.........I installed my Sunpro temp. gauge.......I used my 5' bush hog and made quite a few passes in the field...........With the hog all the way down dragging the ground, the temp went up to 210 degrees, and I believe would have risen some more..............I picked the hog up, but left it a little lower than just topping the grass..........I was running in 1st and 2nd gear high range..........Torottle not quite all the way wide open and the temp would run between 200-205 degrees, fluxuating back and forth...........

THIS IS RUNNING THE TRACTOR WITH JUST PLAIN WATER IN THE COOLING SYSTEM...............I bought 2 gallons of Super Tech 50/50 antifreeze coolant today at Wal-Mart.........I also bought a small container of Prestone radiator flush...............I will clean the cooling system one more time. It will either be this evening or in the morning..........

Well, WHATS THE VERDICT NOW??? Where Do I Go From Here??

Travis R

 

[Eddie]

Turn the problem over to RCO.

This is where you go from here!!!!!!!

 

[buppy69]

I think your tractor should have been checked out by RCO before you bought it.

Eugene

 

[Travis_R]

They said that they checked it out and everything came out good...........Stuart told me that the only thing that was put on it to do some testing was a box blade...........

Travis R

 

[HGM]

They said that they checked it out and everything came out good...........Stuart told me that the only thing that was put on it to do some testing was a box blade...........

Travis R

A box blade doesnt work the tractor very hard. I would think that since they have been questioned publicly about their "recon" process, they would be glad to jump on this and make it right without you spending lots of money and time trying to figure it out.. A good dealer would not have to be asked to make it right, the first call of an issue would be answered with "bring it back"..IMO..

 

[Travis_R]

That would be a problem, "bringing it back."

I am in Louisiana and they are in Texas................Thats why I was skeptical about buying the tractor..............But they assured me that everything would be alright and they would stand behind it 100%.............And so far, they have...............As of right now though, I am finding it pretty hard to get in tough with them............I don't know what John is doing, but Stuart is making deliveries on the west coast...............Thats what his voicemail recording says...........It also says to contact John or James and gives their numbers.........But when I call, I get recordings............................I called John Wednesday or Thursday and did get to talk to him.............But, I haven't been able to get in touch with anyone since the last conversation with John...............................I do gotta say though, they are very nice people...................I just hope we get my little problem solved very soon................I think its been long enough.

Travis R

 

[HGM]

I'm not suggesting you dont trust them anymore... I would however make sure they understand the possition this has put you in(you cant use your tractor) and how imperitive it is that they make it right(you've already spent time and money trying to fix their guaranteed product)... Bottom line is that things happen, this may be an oddball deal for them, but you are still the customer with the warranty.. They sold you a product and gauranteed it to be reliable for a period of time..

The whole distance thing makes it tough, I ran into the same deal with mine. When I took the 2000 back for the 50hr svc, I had a list of things I wanted addressed including several leaks.. Most of it was handled when I got it back a couple weeks later, but I still had a leak from the L/R axle seal.. He told me to bring it back, that was good enough for me, and I told him I would fix it myself(I'm not scared of working on it either) since it was a 1hr drive each way, equaling 4hrs total and gas money as well.. I let him know that I was dissapointed in the repair, but basicly released him from any further warranty repairs at that time.. When you buy a used anything, eslecially if it is 30yrs old, you kinda expect to work on it at some point..

Good luck with it, I hope they do you right...

If you have flow through the radiator, clean radiator(outside/fins for airflow), fan turning, water/coolant and an accurate temperature sensing device, its pretty much covered..Have you touched the radiator(be careful)? run your hand, closely at first to avoid burns, but see if you have hot spots or worse yet, cold spots.... Have you checked the oil? Is the level correct? is it contaminated? How about your air filter?(kind of reaching here).. Are you blowing any smoke?

 

[Travis_R]

Well,

I used the tractor again a while ago.............I MAY, just MAY have figured out my over heating problem.............I want ya'lls opinions on it........................I was bush hogging the field, yes, with my 5' cutter...........I was running in 2 hi and 3 hi BUT only running the engine rpms between 2000-2250??? (somewhere in that range) INSTEAD OF WIDE OPEN..........The tractor NEVER got over 195 degrees.........It stayed between 192 and 195, fluxuating SOME.............Seems to me like the lower the rpms are, the cooler it runs.........but I gotta keep enough rpms up to keep the bush hog spinning...............And NO, the cutter was NOT all the way on the ground.........I had it picked up enough to where the skids didn't drag.......................................All this took place this evening when it wasn't too, too hot..................I wonder if all in all I was just over-revving the engine, or I really do have a temp problem????.............AM I MAKING ANY SENSE????...............................

In the morning, I am going to flush the radiatior and put anitfreeze coolant back in to give it a 50/50 mixture (already pre- diluted from Wal-Mart. Its the Super Tech brand)..............

If that don't work, I guess I be up shi*s creek without a paddle because i'll probably just give up on it and sell it and take my losses, UNLESS RCO Tractor has a solution................

The straight water thats in it si definitely brown looking, but not as bad as I've seen other radiators on other vehicles/equipment...........But it might be bad enough to have to get a whole new radiator put in.............I could do that myself............It may even need a new water pump.........I could get that done, but it would cost me, but if I did that it would mean that the 6 months "labor" of the parts and labor would not do me a bit-a-good..............Yes Stuart could send me parts and HAS sent me parts (2 headlight bulbs and a temp sending unit) (I only needed 1 bulb and he sent an extra one anyway), But I don't think he's going to drive from Texas to Louisiana just to install a water pump.


I may or may not have an over-heating problem with my tractor.............Whether I do or don't, I have realized my MAIN problem is COMMUNICATION WITH RCO...........................Which hopefully they'll come through very, very soon.

Travis R

 

[Tractors4u]

I just hope we get my little problem solved very soon................

Travis R

Overheating is not a little problem. Some people have said that a 5 ft bush hog is too big for a YM2000. I have ran one before without problems. You can't cut really dense and tall stuff with it, but for average height cutting, the 2000 will do it with a 5 ft cutter. Now in your next post you mentioned the gears you were running and the RPMs. 3rd gear with a bush hog is kind of fast don't you think? Are you in low or high range? I might have missed that. Don't blame yourself for over-revving the engine. There is a little red mark on your tachometer that tells you the proper speed for running your engine to achieve the desired PTO speed. You should be able to put the needle on that red mark and run the tractor with attachment without over heating. I believe you would be more apt to over heating your engine by trying to make the tractor do the same work at lower RPMs. I have never had any dealings with RCO, so I am not directing this at those guys. Your comment about them being nice and it is hard to be tough with them. That is what makes a good salesman. My mother in law will believe anything a salesman or repairman tells her, because she says, "there are so nice".

Good luck.

 

[Tom_Veatch]

Well,

I was running in 2 hi and 3 hi BUT only running the engine rpms between 2000-2250??? (somewhere in that range) INSTEAD OF WIDE OPEN..........The tractor NEVER got over 195 degrees.........It stayed between 192 and 195, fluxuating SOME.............Seems to me like the lower the rpms are, the cooler it runs.........but I gotta keep enough rpms up to keep the bush hog spinning...............
Travis R

You wanted opinions? Here's mine: Run the tractor at the RPM which gives you the proper RPM at the PTO output shaft. With the PTO gear selector in the lowest range, that is usually somewhere around 2200 Engine RPM on these tractors. It is certainly not full throttle, wide open engine RPM. Use the transmission gears to set/control your ground speed.

540 PTO RPM will be "enough rpms ... to keep the bush hog spinning". In fact, my guess is that 540 PTO is the speed the mower is designed to run. Running it faster, i.e. wide open engine rpm, is likely to be detrimental to the mower. There is probably a big warning paragraph in the mower's operator manual emphasizing that.

This last post reads to me like you were operating the tractor the way it should be operated and you didn't overheat. 'nuff said?

 

[Travis_R]

THANKS FOR ALL THE SUPPORT...........I CAN'T EMPHASIZE IT ENOUGH.............

Hey,

I happened to notice something today.....................The wire that connects to my temp. sending unit was touching the tractor (grounded) and the temp light was on..............Now we all know that I installed my gauge and do not need the temp light..........But why was it on???????? That meant when I installed the new sensor, thats why the light was on.........The sensor was touching the engine block, hence grounding the sensor which made the light come on.......I wonder why this is???????? I can take the wire and touch anything metal (nuts, bolts, engine block, etc..) on the tractor and the light comes on......WHY?

 

[Tom_Veatch]

I can take the wire and touch anything metal (nuts, bolts, engine block, etc..) on the tractor and the light comes on......WHY?

The sensor is actually a temperature actuated switch. It's purpose is to close at a preset temperature. When it closes, it completes a circuit that allows electrical current to flow from the battery/alternator/etc. through the light bulb to ground. Current flowing through the bulb causes it to glow.

The sensor does not generate any signals, voltage, current, etc. to cause the bulb to light. It's only function is to open and close, respectively breaking and making the circuit through the bulb. Anything that completes the circuit to ground through the bulb will cause the bulb to glow.

If the wire that goes from the bulb to the sensor makes electrical contact with a grounded object (IOW, shorted to ground), that is electrically identical to the sensor switch closing. The circuit through the bulb will be closed, electric current will have a path from the source (battery, alternator, etc) to ground, current will flow through the bulb, and the bulb will light.