Problem With New Yanmar??

ProdaddyTX · Aug 28, 2006

OOhhhh, no... Travis... I'm sorry to hear about that....I'm not gonna say we told you so....but......
For the record, we're in agreement with most of the participants here, that the 5' brush mower is too much for that tractor. I thought you were keeping that on the 40hp Mahindra.... Additionally, the cooling system should be running under pressure. Running an oversized mower on an unpressurized system is a sure fire recipe for overheating. However, so far the problem is a temp light coming on when it's NOT overheated...if I've read everything here correctly??? Classic temp sending unit problem....replacement's on the way. I'll call ya....

Inspector507 · Aug 28, 2006

Travis_R said:
THIS TIME, I put the radiator cap on HALF WAY and continued cutting with the hood open, stand up out of the seat (I know, dangerous) so I couls see what the radiator was doing..................Well, it got hot and water started filling up in the overflow bottle..........and started coming out the top of the bottle
Travis

Of course the water boiled out. An unpressurized system will expand and boil at a lot less temp than a normally pressurized cooling system.

greatrandini · Aug 29, 2006

Travis, clean your radiator fins out. At night how well you can see a flash light shinning through your radiator? I bet it is clogged. Do not open your radiator cap when hot.... ever. You could be disfigured. The best way to clean out your fins is too use a long handled air gun on your air compressor. gently blow from the fan side out. You can do this with water but it does not work as well and it is more likely to bend your fins. Do you have a prescreen on the front of your tractor? This looks like a screen door kinda!!!
If the prescreen is missing get one on there.....Very important part. Once you get your new sender on see if your light still comes on. I think your unit is running a little too hot..
Sorry u r having a problem. It will get ironed out...

Travis_R · Aug 29, 2006

I've got EXCELLENT news.........

I finally rounded up a 4' rotary cutter.........I borrowed one from a feller today........It was a King Kutter.......I really liked it too by the way.........

Anyway, I ran it on my tractor for about an hour or an hour and a half.......The light NEVER came on!!!!!!!!........I didn't even open up the radiator to check the temperature with my thermometer..........I ran it wide open AND lowered the rpms to where it would "lug" a little.......I cut in 3rd gear High range.............In other words, if I would have shifted to 4th, that would have been the fastest the tractor would run.............but I NEVER cut in 4th gear, not even with my Mahindra..................

Now, i'm still going to put the new temp sending unit in when Stuart gets it here..........And a little later, add my temp gauge.........................But my question is..........Do ya'll think that I should put anti-freeze back in it now????....................DOES ANTI-FREEZE MAKE IT RUN A LITTLE COOLER, OR DOES IT HOLD MORE HEAT? I have heard a lot of different answers on this..................I am also going to put some Water Wetter in it too.............Also, I am going to flush the radiator again too......but this time i'll buy some radiator flush from Advance Autoparts and flush it with that instead of just plain water......................

For the record, HOW DO I TEST THE TEMP LIGHT ON THE DASH???? I need to know a step by step procedure...........

ALSO, WHAT SIZE FINISH MOWER DO I NEED TO GET? THAT IS GOING TO BE MY PRIMARY USE.....

Thanks,

Travis

Travis_R · Aug 29, 2006

OH I forgot to mention,

The rpm gauge thats on my tractor only goes up to 3000rpms...............Full throttle on my tractor brings the rpms to about 2400-2500rpms.......Does this sound correct????? The 540rpm mark is at about 2400rpms............

Travis

HGM · Aug 29, 2006

I still dont think you should be overheating with the 5' cutter, but I'm glad the 4' works for you..... Seriously, I would closely look at the radiator from the front(put your head under the hood,over the battery and see if you can see the fan).. I'm still learning with my Yanmar too, but this ticked me off because it was something I should have looked at right off but didnt because of the screen..I would add coolant, but no more than 50/50.. You should have a water pump so that should work fine. Coolant is really antifreeze, it does not cool as well as straight water, but acts as a lubricant to the waterpump and resists freezing and rusting.. As for the light, I'm guessing here but, it should be a temperature sensitive switch that provides a ground to the lamp. The switch is what you need to test.. Try testing the continuity of the switch between the connector and the body(part that screws into the coolant passage).. It should be open.. Atach wires to the body of the switch and the connector and lower the sensing element into boiling water(on the stove).. Note the water temp when the switch closes.. Again, thats a simple test based on an educated guess of how it works.. I havent tried it on mine because I believe its working now(plus I'm adding a gauge

)

pruntyc · Aug 29, 2006

Travis as I said before, if the light came on at all, it is working as it should be. It only comes on when the sending unit says its hot. You don't test the light, if it comes on, just the sending unit. Of course if you were in doubt the light was any good, just short the wire from the sending unit to ground and it will light the bulb, if the key is on.

California · Aug 29, 2006

A stovetop test with plain water isn't hot enough. The sensor grounds the input wire (light comes on) at about 235 while water will disappear as steam at 212.

If you want to try a stovetop test, use a blend of water and antifreeze and use a cooking thermometer to determine the temperature where the switch closes.

California · Aug 29, 2006

Travis_R said:
... The 540rpm mark is at about 2400rpms.

I wonder if that is the right tach. Does it look like this? The PTO tic should be at 2200.
Did you get a manual with your tractor?

Travis_R · Aug 29, 2006

NO, I did not get a manual........I do need one though......

As far as the tach, I am not sure if mine is like the one in the picture........If it isn't, it is awful close to it.........i'll check and let you know tomorrow.....

I know the 5' cutter is too much for my tractor as far as 'handling' goes. I have 4 suitcase weights on the front. BUT, I do agree with the person who stated earlier that the 5' should not be causing my tractor to overheat...............Think the radiator may need rodding out??? The water is somewhat dirty again...............What about a new water pump??..........I'm just about at my 'wits end' with this.............

Travis

Jagmandave · Aug 29, 2006

Now wait a minute, several guys said they thought it would overheat with the 5' cutter on and it did. Several also said it probably wouldn't overheat wth the 4' cutter, and it didn't. So I'm a little confused as to why you're at your wits end? Sounds to me like you found the problem, the 5 ft cutter........I think your tractor is fine............

BruceR · Aug 30, 2006

I'm confused.... Wouldn't a remanufactured tractor already have the radiator and engine block flushed sometime during the reman process ?

I don't believe the 1700 comes with a water pump. About a $300 add-on I think- Check with Aaron at Hoye.

70-30 is the suggested water/anti-freeze mix I believe.

Bruce

roxynoodle · Aug 30, 2006

Use an antifreeze specific to diesels.

As for finish mowers, you should be able to handle a 5'.

HGM · Aug 30, 2006

California said:
A stovetop test with plain water isn't hot enough. The sensor grounds the input wire (light comes on) at about 235 while water will disappear as steam at 212.

If you want to try a stovetop test, use a blend of water and antifreeze and use a cooking thermometer to determine the temperature where the switch closes.

Good point, will antifreeze raise the boiling point that far? Maybe salt? I was thinking that the light would come on closer to 200deg, 235 is pretty hot in my mind, but again, I really dont know the correct temp.

normde2001 · Aug 30, 2006

Inspector507 said:
Of course the water boiled out. An unpressurized system will expand and boil at a lot less temp than a normally pressurized cooling system.

The water still must reach 212 degrees to boil, which is already too hot, unless it is boiling for another reason, such as a bad head gasket.

Gizmo36 · Aug 30, 2006

The 5 foot may be to big for the Tractor. But it still should not run hot.I think when he puts the sending unit in will fix it. I don't think it is running Hot.He check it with the radiator cap half off. you can not do that,He has a YM2000 it has a water pump on it.My YM1700 dose not and i can run a 5 foot all day in 98 temperature. And a lot of you on here that has a YM2000 will have a 5 foot cutter.He needs to wait on the sending unit and see if that will fix it .

BruceR · Aug 30, 2006

My mistake, I was thinking of the wrong unit.

Bruce

California · Aug 30, 2006

Who has an I&T Shop Manual handy?

That's where I saw the sensor stovetop test I described above. I don't have that book with me at the moment. Can somebody confirm 235 degrees for the warning light?

Turbys_1700 · Aug 30, 2006

Gizmo36 said:
The 5 foot may be to big for the Tractor. But it still should not run hot.I think when he puts the sending unit in will fix it. I don't think it is running Hot.He check it with the radiator cap half off. you can not do that,He has a YM2000 it has a water pump on it.My YM1700 dose not and i can run a 5 foot all day in 98 temperature. And a lot of you on here that has a YM2000 will have a 5 foot cutter.He needs to wait on the sending unit and see if that will fix it .

I could run a light weight 5 footer with my 1700...Just had to watch the front end...

Everything said here is correct...Check sending unit...Get guages...Clean and flush radiator...Run a 50/50 mix...

I added a water pump to my 1700...With a 14 psi cap my temps were in the 215 to 230 range...Perfectly acceptable...Those idiot lights are designed to come on at 235...She will boil over at around 248 with a 14 psi cap...

Get guages and replace the sending unit...