Problem With New Yanmar??

[Travis_R]

Hey ya'll,

I said I would post if I had any problems with my YM2000. Well, here goes:

1......I found that the right side high beam head light don't work (there is a burnt spot in the bulb.)

2......As Stuart (RCO) told me, check all the nuts, bolts, fasteners, etc..........the exhaust AND manifold were loose.

3......The Main Question: IS IT RUNNING HOT????

I was using my Bush Hog 5' Squealer cutter today with the tractor......Made a few passes and the temp light came on......tractor is not equipped with gauges........killed tractor and very carefully cracked the radiator cap open, then immediately removed the cap.......very little water went into the over flow bottle, but the funny thing is the water DID NOT spew ot of the radiator. It is like it isn't running hot. I even touched the water inside the radiator......Of course I couldn't hold my hand on the engine or in the water, but it just didn't seem to be hot enough for the light to come on......Could it be the sending unit??? Stuart seems to think its the size of the mower, but I was just topping the grass. The tractor was in very low gear and the engine was wide open, but the rpms didn't drop and the motor never lugged and the light still came on.......WHAT COULD IT BE?

I HONESTLY DO NOT consider numbers 1 and 2 'problems', just a little 'maintenance'......But # 3 definitely needs to be looked at.

AS FAR AS RCO TRACTOR, I am 100% SATISFIED with them and their business as of now........I have NO COMPLAINTS with Stuart, John, or RCO.............

Stuart said he is sending me a new bulb in the mail.............I called him earlier today and left a message....I know it wasn't 1 minute 30 seconds later he called me back.......I can also honestly say that I was very impressed.........He said that it could be the sending unit, but was leaning more towards the mower being too big...........He said to go to Autozone and rent an infra red temp thermometer and shoot it at the radiatior when the light comes on and then call him back and let him know what the reading is........He doesn't know it yet cause I ain't returned his call, but Autozone don't have one to rent or sale to me................WHAT NEXT?

Travis

 

[California]

That doesn't sound hot to me, it sounds like a bad or grounded sensor. (The light comes on when the wire to the sensor is shorted to ground.) A hot engine, especially 'remanufactured', would have a smell of paint burning off everywhere and would radiate heat. You would not be able to touch the radiator hose next to the sensor. Take off the radiator cap and watch (cool) water return to the radiator from the upper hose. I suggest buy a new sensor.

Items 1 and 2 are trivial, any used item 25 years old needs to be checked bumper to bumper before you put it in service. (regardless of pretty paint).

YM2000 is a great model. You will love it after working a few small bugs out.

 

[Mickey_Fx]

Well, to gather a little more info to help you out, why don't you get a cooking therometer and place in the cooling water and actually measure the temp. There are other ways to make the measurement but if you don't have a gauge already, cooking therometers are cheap and easy to find.

 

[normde2001]

How much coolant is in the overflow bottle? Could that be the low coolant sensor light that you are seeing? By the way, a 5' rotary cutter is too big for your tractor.

 

[CO_Farmer]

Seriously, get and install an oil pressure and temperature gauge. $30 at my local Checker auto parts, plus a metric fitting adapter I had to get at a hardware store.
My idiot lights were coming on for no reason, after I installed gauges I finally understood that the sensors were bad. You just can't rely on those idiot lights to make any assumptions.

 

[elarson]

Just another thing you might try, in order to stick with the lowest cost diagnostics first.....
If the coolant is not hot and you can run it safely with the cap off, verify that the coolant in the radiator is flowing. Could be damaged water pump or something else keeping the coolant in the block where the sensor picks up the temperature reading.

 

[elarson]

DUH........
Guess I should read the whole thread more completely. California had it nailed.

 

[buppy69]

Ditto on the brush hog being too big regardless of whether it's running hot or not.

Eugene

 

[Travis_R]

O.K., first and foremost, thanks for all the support fellas.

I found a thermometer. I ran the tractor til the light came on. I opened up the radiator cap and put the thermometer in. It read about 200 degrees, but never went over. Was it supposed to be pressurized when I took the cap off??? It had some pressure on it, but water did not boil out all over the place, just a very little when I first took the cap off..........It read between 180-190 with the cap off and the light was still on......WHAT NOW?

I can see water swirling around inside the radiator when the cap is off and the light is on......

Thanks,
Travis

 

[MDM]

Get a temp gauge and the metric adaptor set. About $20 at Autozone. I got the SunPro 2" mechanical gauge. I have a 2210D and it never runs over 160 on the hottest of days. 200 is safe, but I would think it should run much cooler. I wouldn't run with the throttle wide open. 2200 - 2400 rpms should be plenty. You should be alright with a 5' finish mower, but go down to a 4' brush cutter. You could add some Water Wetter to your coolant. It helps a little.

 

[Travis_R]

Well, I really messed up this time.........

I ran the tractor with my 5' bush hog. temp Light came on. THIS TIME, i did not immediately check it..........I ran it for a while........then I checked it and BAM! IT GOT ME!!! I am o.k. but the water in the radiator spewed all ove me and dam did it burn.......I have a few burn marks on me right now, all up and down underneath my left arm I did notice the over-flow bottle reservoir was FULL.......So, apparently it really must be running hot, I don't know......

WHATS THE PROBLEM???? I truly don't think its because of the 5' cutter.......

Travis

 

[pruntyc]

You shouldn't run wide open, but there should be a little red line, on the tack, at around 2200 to 2400, not sure on that model. That is where you are suppose to run it. Wide open won't hurt it, but at the red line the PTO will be close to 540 rpms where it is meant to be run. That is where you get the right hour reading also. Sounds like the cap isn't working. I would try it first, after I got a sending unit, and see if that don't fix it. And yes, I think the 5 foot is a bit too big, should be running a 4 foot.

 

[Inspector507]

Travis,
I assume you have checked the screen in front of the radiator and the radiator itself. When using a rotary cutter, it usually means the vegetation is taller and there's more chaff flying around.

 

[MDM]

What Rpms are you running at? It sounds like you are running hot. I would aviod running it until you can get a temp gauge on it. That way you can stop and let it cool down before you do any damage. You don't want to end up blowing a head gasket or warping your head or worse. What ratio of water/coolant is in it?

 

[Travis_R]

It is a 50/50 mix of coolant.........I am cutting grass thats about 2-3 feet tall.......mower is not even all the way on the ground......I have it picked up a little.........WHAT NOW?

Travis

 

[Travis_R]

I did check the screen in front of the radiator.......Super clean...........Well, maybe the 5' is too big.......But I do also know in my mind that it would also be running hot with a 4' cutter...........Wide open is where I am running the throttle.........Mine has a little white line for the 540 rpms on the gauge......It is actually staying alittle above that line, but definitely not going under it........

Travis

 

[buppy69]

I put a 6' brush cutter on my 27hp tractor last week because it was easier to get to. My tractor ran hot after 10 minutes. It has never run hot before. The next day I dug out the 5' and went back and finished what I had started the day before. It never got above normal. So don't say you know it will run hot with a 4' until you try.

Eugene

 

[Travis_R]

O.K.....

I've made up my mind to go ahead and put a temp gauge on it.......I WILL GO TO AUTOZONE AS SOON AS SOMEONE TELLS ME EVERYTHING TO GET TODAY..........What do I need? I am ready to go....

Sunpro? Adapters????? I don't know anything about this stuff but I sure ya'll can walk me through it...

Travis

 

[Inspector507]

Travis,
I used the Sunpro 1 1/2" gauges, but the 2" are more popular. There is a metric adapter kit that Sunpro sells to make one of the gauges fit properly. I can't remember if it's the oil or temp. I did this on a YM1700.
I'll look up my old post and get back to ya.

 

[Travis_R]

o.k.....................thanks alot!