PowerTrac Specific Modifications

[ponytug]

So, I picked up a power broom and an auger at auction. I needed the broom for a construction project, and realized that renting one was going to be 2/3rds the cost of a new one. The only issue was that the attachments were for skidsteers.

So, I made a PT QA to skid steer quick attach plate.



I bought the SSQA locking mechanisms off of eBay. At $99, I can’t build it for that price (3/8” steel).

I put 1/4” plate between the two ready made ends, cutting the plate to match the curves in the lock mechanism plates and added a 2”x2”x 3/8” heavy wall square tube to reinforce the bottom and to tip the Power-Trac quick attach out ten degrees or so to better match the PT’s curl range of motion. The PT QA portion is flat 1/4” plate with 3/8” rim and a bevel cut piece of 3/4” round stock as the top retaining lip. (That was a production as the rim has an extended bend that I couldn't quite reproduce. I ended up cutting my bent to shape rim and welding in a little extra metal to broaden the curve. I am sure that someone more skilled than I am would have been able to do this faster and better.) I tacked it together and made the mistake of lifting with it. (I got excited and wasn’t thinking.) That bent the top of the middle plate a bit so I removed the bend and added a 1/4” bar across the top to reinforce it. Probably unnecessary with all the other full welds in place, but I thought why risk it?


(It is leaning on the broom, so it looks crooked, but isn't.)

I’m still working out how to best adjust the springs on the locking assembly. The other minor thing that I did was remove the original grease zerks as they were a small metric variety in a location that was going to be a problem for my uses. I welded the old openings shut and then drilled new holes and tapped new NPT threads in a better location for standard US zerks.

I may make another plate for my auger. I have some concerns about overall weight of the auger and adapter, but I will cross that bridge when I get there.



The broom in the photos is supposedly 800-ish pounds, but with the weight so far in front, it is close to the limit of my 1445. The broom also came with a snazzy AB/straight through/BA solenoid to run the left / right swivel angle off of the main PTO power. I elected to bypass it and just use the PT QA/QC fittings in a dedicated circuit for the angle and run the PT PTO directly to the motor. I am considering using it as a reverse for the broom, if that turns out to be important. Otherwise, I plan to just sell the system to someone who needs a +/- function from a full flow hydraulic.

All the best,

Peter

 

[m5040]

I made one for my 1430, shown with the boom and one for my 1460 which is a lot heavier. Both started out as 3pt hitch to SSQA adapters.

 

[ponytug]

@m5040 so how are the springs on the pins supposed to be set/adjusted? I am wondering if I was supposed to weld a stop 10-15 degrees past BDC.

All the best,

Peter

 

[m5040]

Mine came all put together. But they are like a dump truck tail gate hook. It should push the pin down and go just a slight amount past, starting to raise up and stop there. That way they can't disengage unless they get tighter first.

 

[ponytug]

Thanks, that is what I suspected. Time to weld on some stops, just past the point the pins go in.

All the best,

Peter

 

[DTTNWO]

Hitting your head on the ROP during entry/exit:

Get some 3/4 inch split foam pipe insulation and place it on the offending area of impact.

 

[SpringHollow]

Split rubber hose works well too. I used that until I learned to duck.

 

[cqaigy2]

I used to have the pipe insulation on the edge, but it all got rubbed off.

From tree limbs, not my head...

 

[MossRoad]

Aww, just keep a whacking my noggin on it over and over. Eventually your skull toughens up. You just can't stand too close to the microwave oven when it's on...

 

[CreativeGuy]

I bought a front hoe with the Toro Dingo attach plate. All I needed to do to make it work with my PT425 was to cut a notch in the top and cut the two rectangle holes in the bottom for the locking mechanism.

 

[MossRoad]

That’s good to know.

 

[BobRip]

Nice simple modification to make it work with the PT. Good idea.

 

[m5040]

I think that will only apply to the PT425 mounting plate. I tried it on my PT018 & 430 and it wasn't close.

 

[ponytug]

Aluminized wire loom protecting the glow plugs on the 1445 Deutz BF3L2011 engine.

In hindsight, I probably made the heat issue worse by trying to prime the muffler with Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer, which I found out later has an upper limit of 200F. It turns black as it dries. It then proceeded to flake off in the first hour, leaving rusty metal underneath, so I am underwhelmed at its rust reforming abilities as well.

So yes, sanded, prepped, and painted twice; once with the rust reformer and then sanded it down with an abrasive disk (way better than rust reformer or sand paper)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W6PVHVZ

I used silver "high temp" paint the second time, but one that sets at about 400F, which is about all the Deutz can generate.

Did I mention that I love the intake heaters? They really help cut down the black smoke on starting below 40F for me. (Thanks @SpringHollow!) I am not sure that I need two, but they certainly work.

All the best,

Peter

 

[woodlandfarms]

As requested. Raising of the Deutz

blower cover for better ventilation.

 

[m5040]

Might be better if you lowered the backside of the deflector so the air stream hits the shield at an angle and not straight on.

 

[ponytug]

Muffler wrap; lowered the temperature of the outside of the muffler by 270F, and the engine plus hydraulic oil by a chunk.

More here;
Posts in thread 'What did you do with your Power Trac today?'
Pre wrap muffler and oil temperatures
Post muffler wrap temperatures

All the best,

Peter

 

[m5040]

Can you tell any difference in the noise level after the wrap?

 

[MossRoad]

I'd be curious to see if that would make a difference on my 2001 PT425. Anything to reduce the heat under the hydraulic cooler would be a bonus, as long as it doesn't build up heat somewhere else, in my case.

 

[ponytug]

Can you tell any difference in the noise level after the wrap?

Nothing too obvious to me, but the muffler didn't rattle beforehand, so I would not have expected a change. I guess the hotter exhaust gases might sound different, but I also wear Howard Leighton Leightning L3 (30dB NRR) ear muffs, so I don't know how reliable I am on this one...

All the best,

Peter