Pole building electrical question

[smfcpacfp]

If you look at the picture below, you see the inside of my pole building. Looking at the walls (inside to outside), first you have 6 by 6 posts, then you have 2 by 6's nailed horizontally to the posts, finally you have the metal sheeting screwed to the 2 by 6's. There is a 1 3/4 inch gap between the metal siding and the 6 by 6 posts (i.e., the width of the 2 by 6's).

Here is my electrical question. Can your electrical wire runs, run in the gap between the metal sheeting and the 6 by 6's (i.e., resting on top of the 2 by 6's held in place by wire staples)?

 

[Duffster]

Yes, but I would run them on the bottom of the 2x6.

 

[whistlepig]

A very nice looking barn. For me, I don't like my wiring touching or close to the sheet metal. Probably nothing wrong with that but that's just me. I ran my wiring either up the sides of the poles, on the bottom of the vertical stringers, and along the bottom of the trusses. I didn't want wires running along the vertical stringers unless they were on the top or bottom. I like to prop heavy stuff like PHD, augers, poles, and other stuff against my walls. I wanted the wires out of the way on the walls so I didn't bump and nick them.

 

[Steve C]

If you look at the picture below, you see the inside of my pole building. Looking at the walls (inside to outside), first you have 6 by 6 posts, then you have 2 by 6's nailed horizontally to the posts, finally you have the metal sheeting screwed to the 2 by 6's. There is a 1 3/4 inch gap between the metal siding and the 6 by 6 posts (i.e., the width of the 2 by 6's).

Here is my electrical question. Can your electrical wire runs, run in the gap between the metal sheeting and the 6 by 6's (i.e., resting on top of the 2 by 6's held in place by wire staples)?

How do you stop the electricty from freezing up in the wires up there? Do you have to insulate them?
Perhaps some steam tracing like we use in the plant to keep the pipes from freezing??

 

[ol'George]

You have to use brown bottle insulators.
the kind with little metal conductive caps.
the brand isn't important just ask your lumber/electrical supplier and he will direct you to the proper isle/area
they keep the wires warm in the winter and cool in the summer.
just use sparingly as excessive use will cause frequent "leaking" of er current

 

[scotty088]

They say "great minds think alike" I like your thinking OL George....
Scotty

 

[Pops15]

Are you talking about romex? Make sure romex will meet code. If you ever sell your property you'll want it to pass the home inspection. Like others have said its a good idea to run them on the bottom of the (horizontal) 2X6's, and sides of the trusses. Theres less chance the wire will get damaged that way.

Conduit would be much better and safer since the walls aren't finished.

Resist the urge to use 14 gauge wire (its not legal for receptacles anyway) and those cheap contractor packs of 15 amp receptacles and switches they sell at the box stores.

 

[whistlepig]

I would go 12 gauge romex. Romex made the Ohio code. Conduit is a whole lot of work. As as is metal sheathed wire. I would rather carefully tuck my wires than deal with conduit or metal sheathed wire.

 

[Pops15]

I would go 12 gauge romex. Romex made the Ohio code. Conduit is a whole lot of work. As as is metal sheathed wire. I would rather carefully tuck my wires than deal with conduit or metal sheathed wire.

Romex is legal in houses, and in unfinished garages up to two bays here. Apartments, commercial and larger garages have to be in conduit. Used to be one local town required BX (metal sheathed cable) and the next two towns wouldn't let you use it. Most of the area towns are on the same page now. Best bet is for the OP to check his local codes.

Conduit really isn't that hard once you've done a little of it.

 

[EddieWalker]

I don't know your code there, but if the walls are going to be left open, I would run the wire through conduit. 3/4 grey plastic in ten foot lengths is just a buck a stick, so there's no good reason not to use it. There are allot of good reasons to use conduit. If you evern cut the plastic sleeve of the romex, you risk also cutting the insulation around the wire. For me, it's very cheap saftey that I wouldn't even consider doing any other way. If you are going to insulate and cover the walls with something, then yes, you should be fine to run the romex along the purlins.

Eddie

 

[Chilly807]

I'm with Eddie, conduit or at least BX cable is likely to be the only allowable method anyway. Check with the local building inspector, you DID get a building permit, right??

Chilly

 

[eepete]

+ 1. I agree with Eddie. At a buck a stick (10' section), and with the sections having bell ends (i.e. you can connect pieces without couplers) conduit is cheap and easy. The wire is protected, the chance of fire goes down. And if the outside of the building is struck by lightning, there's a smaller chance that your houses AC power system will be the "ground" for the strike. Smaller still if you ground the building's shell.

I took a piece of the 3/4 conduit and hi-pot tested it. I can only go up to 7500 volts, but it was happy. Romex is good to about 1200 volts, which kinda makes sense- 600 on the inside, 600 for the outside and paper. I didn't test it to a fault, just tested it to 1200. So between the conduit and the romex, you've got 8700 volts of insulation. Probably higher, that's all I tested to and that's enough for me. All the usual disclaimers here- you milage may vary, any statement about lightning is subject to being disproved by mother nature, etc. But mechanical safety, fire safety, and much better voltage insulation are good stuff.

BTW, this is also why I put conduit in any ground run vs. just using the UF (direct burial cable). Put that about 2.5 feet deep and it's quite protected, you can add more stuff later (always use bigger conduit, I'd say at least 1.5"), and the lightning strike has to be really close to where the conduit is buried to have that much kick that far down. The OP was worried about wiring in the building, but the power has to get there somehow. Also consider running some drain pipe or black polyethylene (PE) pipe for low voltage stuff (telephone and alarms).

Pete

 

[hr3]

Check with your local code office when you take out your electrical permit.. Take the picture with you.. These are the people you have to satisfy and tell you what wireing method is allowed in your area..

Building Codes Department
Courthouse
234 W. Baraga Avenue
Marquette, Michigan 49855
(906) 225-8180
fax: 225-8203
(800) 562-9788 toll free for "906" area code only

 

[firefighter jim]

You have a nice building in which you just invested a good deal of money in. Romex in an exposed building looks terrible and plastic electrical conduit above ground doesn't look much better. Go with metal EMT conduit and stranded THHN conductors. It is more labor intensive but you will end up with a professional looking job more in keeping with that beautiful building of yours. Jim

 

[JB4310]

The way I've seen buildings like that is the wires are run up overhead out of the panel not in pipe overhead but put in pipe as it comes down the wall, just straight drops down to the outlet and switch boxes. Not much run horizontally.

I prefer metal EMT over plastic only because it's easier for me, every time I have a little job I think would be good for plastic, I struggle with it.

 

[kenstrac]

I have had all types in my barns, EMT rust in some barn atmospheres using regular boxes the seal is not good enough to keep out mud wasp and you end up with corrosion in the boxes and switch and outlet failures, and the same holds true for standard Romex and BX installation's.
I have changed all of the above to plastic conduit with the appropriate plastic boxes and have had no more problems ,the only thing I have to add that if you have some long runs to use an expansion sleeve so you won't have the conduit bowing from heat expansion.

 

[EddieWalker]

While I agree that nothing says professional electrician like metal conduit all run perfectly, with nice, sweeping turns all lined up. It's not an easy task to accomplish, and if you don't know what you are doing with metal pipe, it's real easy to make a real mess of it.

Plastic Conduit allows amatures to do the job with good looking results. The key is to make sure your runs are straight and level.

Eddie

 

[Stampeder]

I too agree with Eddie. I am currently adding wiring to my barn which was done by an electrician previous to my owning it. I am using plastic. It is a dream to use. I have EMT benders etc. but gluing plastic is way easier.

BTW don't run horizontally along the walls. If you later want to cut a door or window etc into the wall it's a royal pita, trust me on this one.
Make your runs down the center of the building along the rafters then branch off to the walls and vertically down the walls where you need boxes. Besides any lights will be up there anyway.

Hope this helps and good luck.

Glenn.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

...Also consider running some drain pipe or black polyethylene (PE) pipe for low voltage stuff (telephone and alarms).

Pete

Educate me here... Why not just make another run of conduit?

 

[smfcpacfp]

How do you stop the electricty from freezing up in the wires up there? Do you have to insulate them?
Perhaps some steam tracing like we use in the plant to keep the pipes from freezing??

Electricity conducts best near absolute zero, so in the winter here, all electric appliances run better, the lights are brighter, etc. .