Pole Barn advise

[bp fick]

Most townships are wise to the living in part of the pole barn thing. Many here in Northern Michigan no longer turn a blind eye. Just saying. Be very careful you don't put your eggs in the basket only to have it overturned.

 

[hokiebird]

I'm trying to finish up plans for a similar building. For spray foam insulation, there should be no need for soffit or ridge vent. The open cell foam is an adequate vapor and moisture barrier, coat all surfaces so that there is no need to vent. In very cold climates a moisture barrier is sometimes recommended by the contractors (see for example the Icynene website). I'm planning on going with an open-cell foam for my building (in Nebraska).

Friends,

Ive been reading alot of the postings on pole barn construction and picking up some very valuable advice. Im planning on building a 36x48x16 pole barn this spring and wanted to get your thoughts on some questions I have.

For the intended use - Im planning to live in part of the barn while our house is being built so the 16' side walls are to accommodate a loft with 2 bedrooms. Downstairs would be a familyroom/kitchen and a bathroom. (longer term this would be wood shop w/ bathroom & office/storage loft above). These quarters would have a concrete floor w/ underfloor heating and would occupy the back 1/3 of the building with the remainder as the barn with a gravel floor & 12x14 overhead door.

I'll have to contract out the construction so Id like to get your opinions on the following:

1. One builder is quoting for 10' oc posts with the girts bookshelved in joist hangers. This would make fiberglass insulation easier but whats your thoughts on the 10' spacing (6x6PT posts) ?

2. I was planing on a ridge vent & 12' vented overhang on all 4 sides. Is this necessary if I go with closed cell spray foam insulation ?
While spray foam is expensive - I havent seen any postings where people have regretted going with it so thats why Im considering it [ well that and my track record on project completion leads me to expect to be in these temporary quarters for a while ] Im told Ice dams can be an issue on buildings without vented overhangs in this neck of the woods.

3. One neighbor suggested lining the the interior with a vapor barrier and white metal sheeting and then just filling the cavity with blown in cellulose insulation. This would be with the girts on side rather than in hangers but I liked the idea because its a DIY job. Whats your thoughts on this ? should I get the contractor to hang the steel ?

Looking forward to your suggestions.

 

[Guttery_Gipe]

Thank you !

Thankfully our township has no issue with our plans. We consulted with them from the start to understand the contraints. But it is an important consideration so thank you for pointing that out.

Also - not having to vent the ridge and soffit with spray foam is good to know - it will help offset some of the initial costs. Does no soffit lead to problems with ice dams ?

 

[timswi]

Thank you !

Thankfully our township has no issue with our plans. We consulted with them from the start to understand the contraints. But it is an important consideration so thank you for pointing that out.

Also - not having to vent the ridge and soffit with spray foam is good to know - it will help offset some of the initial costs. Does no soffit lead to problems with ice dams ?

Not if the whole roof is foamed...No heat transfer.

 

[o2batsea]

I built my barn with 2 by 6 studs on 24 inch centers. They are 15 foot 9 inch studs sitting on 3 courses of block and a 2 by 6 sill and top plate. The foundation is traditional poured concrete and the inside of the barn has a 4 inch concrete floor with a center drain. I had it wrapped in tyvek and sided it with T-111 which we put two coats of stain on before hanging. The roof is built of engineered trusses that span the 32 foot width. The steel roofing is laid on 2 by 4 sleepers spaced at 24 inches. With the block walls, the inside height to the bottom of the trusses is 17 foot 6, which gives plenty of height to add a loft area at 8 feet. There are two doors on one end, each is 10 wide and 12 high. I can easily get my 23 foot flybridge boat in it.
The walls are built such that regular fiberglass roll type insulation can fit. If a future owner wishes to convert the barn to living space it is already to code as far as framing and foundation go.

 

[Guttery_Gipe]

Wow - seems like an awsome structure.
Reads similar to house construction and probably better build than alot of houses.
Thanks for sharing your ideas - gives me more to think about.
Not sure of the block wall is right for me - but your roof design might work well.

 

[gno242]

Have you ever thought about steel framed? Mine has a 20 year rust warranty, a 60 lbs psf snow load, and a 130 mph wind guarantee. I had it quoted at about 40% less than wood, installed.


You could do a 30 x 40 x 15 vertical roofed shop. Lets assume a 3:12 roof pitch so your peak height would be almost 19'. If you considered steel I'd go 12 gauge framing. 20 year rust warranty.

Of the 40 ft length I'd leave 20 ft open then have the remaining 20 ft lofted for a 30 x 20 two room setup. Make the lower level a 7ft tall story, the upper level a 7 ft tall story,and the one foot remaining would play as a leeway for the framing between both stories.Two 15 x 20 rooms are large, I'd put like a 6x8 restroom in the center of the two rooms. To support this arrangement you'd have to have the framing on 2' centers and have a column of supports on the lower level. These supports would play to your benefit when framing out the kitchen, office area, and what ever else you may do? closets,ect. The normal spacing of a non lofted steel shop this size would be 3.5 ft centers, I think, something close that made mathematical sense. The company that engineered and installed the steel frame I have didn't do the insulation, drywall, foor, or electric. I just hire subs to complete it. I was bored this morning so I did a little sketch. I also included a photo of my steel shop/office.

 

[Guttery_Gipe]

I hadnt really given alot of thought to a metal building to be honest.
I thought it would give me too many complications for adding a loft with electrical, plumbing and insulation.

But that might be just because of my lack of familiarity - I dont have any experience with a metal buiding. Some of the pictures Ive seen for metal buildings look good so maybe I'll ask around to see who locally have had success with metal (my immediate neighbors went timber).

Thanks for the pointer.

 

[ovrszd]

Up North, it is not uncommon to buy a used trailer home, park it on the site, and then sell it afterwards when the construction is far enough along.

My Uncle did this and even made some money in the process.

Yooper Dave

Yep, that's what I did. Lived in the trailer for 18 months while building a house. Sold it for what I gave for it so basically lived 18 months at no cost. If you aren't picky you can buy a trailer for what you'll spend on materials to make the shop building liveable and then recoup all that money. Good luck with the project!!!

 

[RWTschoeke]

Greetings from a fellow cheesehead in Waupaca county. I am currently in the process of having a 48x72x14 built with the poles going in next week. I am using MPB Builders out of Ripon who came highly recommended from all who I had contacted and have been impressed with their service thus far. If you are still shopping builders, give them a call. They'll be comapable to a Walters but pricier than a Cleary. No negative feedback from others who have used them.