Plumbing question

[Richard]

We’re starting the process of finishing a full bath in the basement. Wife wants shower with some of body sprays. Because of that, I need to upsize to ¾” copper.

As my good luck would have it, copper pipe comes out of my water heater and heads right into this bathroom but it's stepped down immediately to 1/2" (at the water heater)

I figure I just swap out the stick and I'm done BUT...(time for my bad luck)

Right underneith some ductwork, is another "T" where the hot/cold lines turn and go to the kitchen. I don't have access to those unless I do some major rework on ducting (which I don't plan to do)

Here's my question (unless someone has a different idea)

What if I remove the 1/2" at the water heater, insert a "T" so I can pull 3/4" pipe all the way to the bathroom (leaving the 1/2" line intact). Insert yet another "T" and step right back down to 1/2" (at same water heater junction) so the kitchen run will be intact.

What will happen though is, on the OTHER side of the kitchen "T", I'll have to cut the pipe & cap it OR (and this is the thrust of my question)

Could I take what would become a dead leg (if I capped it), and just "T" it BACK into the 3/4" pipe that will be replacing it?

I don't see any reason why that won't work but perhaps I'm worrying to much about it. I just don't like the idea of a water pipe going off to nowhere and stopping. I'd like to bring it back into the pipe so it's always able to flow.

I'm not sure how clear all my gibberish might be.

I have a single line from water heater to this bathroom with a T coming off at a very difficult spot to reach. If I do the above, I'll have a second, parallel 3/4" line next to the 1/2". the 3/4 will fuel the bathroom and the 1/2 will stay connected to Kitchen. After the kitchen junction, I might run the 1/2" back into the 3/4" pipe. Any reason why I should or shouldn’t do this?

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[beenthere]

I certainly wouldn't worry about a 'dead end' pipe. If it's on the way to the bathroom, use it for a sink and it will be continually used. Run the ¾" from the heater to the shower as planned.
Not a 100% sure if I interpreted your 'plan', but it sounded like you are on the right track. I assume you don't have some split for soft water and others for hard water. I only run soft to the shower, tub, and washer on the cold side. I don't drink soft water, and don't soften the water going to the furnace or the toilets (plumber would like to see soft at the toilets).

 

[midlf]

I vote for the plan that allows circulation. I worry about dead ends in a domestic water system fed by a well. Without any chlorine, as you would have in city water, I have a concern about a dead end providing a place where microscopic critters could develop undisturbed.