Pay it forward.

[skylarkguy]

That's pretty neat.

 

[RedNeckGeek]

I' am so surprised how well it collapses.:cool2:
Tomorrow after cutting the pins, he wants to play with some welding machines.

That's GREAT! Sounds like you're both learning something.

Did he do the design with a 3D CAD package on a computer? I've just started playing with one, and am finding that if I can get it to work (fit and angles) on the computer, it'll work in the metal, too. But only if the parts are made to the drawing

Thanks for sharing your project. And congratulations to you all!

 

[Shield Arc]

Did he do the design with a 3D CAD package on a computer?

I'll ask him tomorrow when he comes back.
He is hooked on aluminum Tig welding:laughing:. With less than 2-hours under his belt, it's hard to tell my Tig welds from his:shocked:. Kid is a natural at Tig welding aluminum!

 

[RedNeckGeek]

He is hooked on aluminum Tig welding:laughing:. With less than 2-hours under his belt, it's hard to tell my Tig welds from his:shocked:. Kid is a natural at Tig welding aluminum!

Couldn't have anything to do with his young eyes and steady hands, could it?

Not to mention having one-on-one quality time with a great teacher. I'm jealous! :laughing:

 

[Shield Arc]

Not to mention having one-on-one quality time with a great teacher. I'm jealous! :laughing:

I'm no teacher, by any stretch of the imagination, But nothing beats one on one instruction! This kid is sharp as a tack.

 

[Shield Arc]

Tell me this kid isn't a natural! This is with about 2-hours of hood time:shocked::shocked:. His only problem, he forgets to back off the pedal at the end of the weld, (far left side). Color me impressed!:cool2::cool2:

 

[Big Barn]

Tell me this kid isn't a natural! This is with about 2-hours of hood time:shocked::shocked:. His only problem, he forgets to back off the pedal at the end of the weld, (far left side). Color me impressed!:cool2::cool2:

Okay. I'm sold. Sign me up, let me know when classes start and where to send my money!

Terry

 

[Shield Arc]

Okay. I'm sold. Sign me up, let me know when classes start and where to send my money!

Terry

I had very little to do with it. I really believe the Miller Dynasty 300 makes it so easy to weld aluminum. I surely don't want to take anything away from this kid. First thing this morning we fired up the Mig welder. I had him run some .045" Metal Core, and some .035" Mig wire. He did excellent with both.
I'll bet if I had this kid for a couple months I could get him to where he could pass the state structural welding test.

 

[Steveneverlearn]

I showed him how to do it with a hole saw. He about fell over! :laughing:

Hello,

Newbie to the forum here. I have been reading the posts and there is a ton of great info here. Thank you to everyone.

Shield Arc, do you have a link to how you use a hole saw to cope tubing? I searched the forum and there are a lot of great ideas, from hand grinders to joint jigger and aven HF tools. Did you use a jig of some kind?

Thank you sir,
Steve

 

[Shield Arc]

Hi Steve! Welcome to the site!
No I don't have any links. I just use the same size hole saw as the pipe / tube it will saddle. I generally only cope into the pipe / tube 1/3 the diameter of the pipe / tube.

 

[Shield Arc]

I've never coped pipe or tube with a chop saw. But here is a chart someone posted years ago who builds pipe fences for a living. Maybe this will come in handy for some of the members.

 

[Steveneverlearn]

Thank you Shield Arc.

I saw your post on using a mill. I was just wondering if you found a creative way to use a drill and a hole saw.

I wish I had a mill, really wish I knew how to use one too. I'll try a grinder with a cutoff wheel, then move on to a jig.

Thanks again,
Steve

 

[flyerdan]

I've used a hole saw in a drill press to make copes when gate building. We had an air notcher for the small stuff but I'd have to use a 1.875" hole saw on the 2.375" material for cantilever gates. I had a modified drill press vice to hold the pipe and would use the pilot bit for a stop. You had to be careful with the feed rate and speed as it was kind of grabby, but it made beautiful cuts. Added bonus was the overall length was the same every time doing it that way, no variance on grinding irregularities. Just subtract 2" from the os/os length when cutting the top and bottom rails. To keep the copes oriented the same way I'd tack a chunk of 1.875" on the back one and let gravity keep things lined up, or have a helper hold it with a level while I secured it, if it was being particularly difficult.

 

[bcp]

Is this any good? Or is the idea good but the construction is not?

Tubing Notcher & Pipe Notcher

Bruce

 

[muddstopper]

I cant say anything good or bad about the HF tubing notcher, but I have been around a few. My first suggestion is not to go cheap on the purchase. Most of the cheap ones are kind of flimsy and dont last long. I suppose for occassional use they are ok, but certainly not in a production senario. the old joint jigger,Ol' Joint Jigger Tubing Notcher — 2in. O.D. Capacity, Model# RTN100 | Tubing Notchers| Northern Tool + Equipment is a decent notcher for hobby use, but you can see the price doesnt reflect the difference in quality. I have a buddy that builds roll cages and he wore out a few of those jigger joints before getting a a better rig. Not sure of the brand, but it is considerably heavier built than the jigger joint. In fact, I think he may of built it himself.

 

[RedNeckGeek]

To keep the copes oriented the same way I'd tack a chunk of 1.875" on the back one and let gravity keep things lined up, or have a helper hold it with a level while I secured it, if it was being particularly difficult.

I have a job coming up where I need to cut 45° miters on each end of a 2' piece of tube, and I'm scratching my head how I'm gonna keep the miters aligned. The ends of the tube will be fit into a corner, so they need to align along a right angle. The tables on the bandsaw and mill aren't much help because they're either too small or oriented wrong to let me use a miter gauge. Your idea of tacking a length of something to the first miter just might work, but I'm open to suggestions... :confused3:

 

[Shield Arc]

Do you have a center head? Mark center of pipe at each end, take a straight edge, or chalk line and make a mark from one end of the pipe to the other end. Transfer this mark to the opposite side of the pipe. You can even quarter the pipe if you want to.

 

[RedNeckGeek]

Do you have a center head? Mark center of pipe at each end, take a straight edge, or chalk line and make a mark from one end of the pipe to the other end. Transfer this mark to the opposite side of the pipe. You can even quarter the pipe if you want to.

I do! It'll be relatively small diameter tube (1" I'm guessing) so I could use the square attachment as a foot to keep the scale square to the layout table, then slide the center head down until it settles on the tube. Probably have to elevate the tube on some 1-2-3 blocks and v-blocks, but a setup like that would make it fairly simple to transfer TDC from one end of the tube to the other.

THANKS!!!:thumbsup:

 

[Shield Arc]

I really like these Flange Wizard center heads. Center punch built right into them.

 

[CNC Dan]

I have a job coming up where I need to cut 45° miters on each end of a 2' piece of tube, and I'm scratching my head how I'm gonna keep the miters aligned. The ends of the tube will be fit into a corner, so they need to align along a right angle. The tables on the bandsaw and mill aren't much help because they're either too small or oriented wrong to let me use a miter gauge. Your idea of tacking a length of something to the first miter just might work, but I'm open to suggestions... :confused3:

I have one of those digital levels.
I made a small pearch that can be clamped to the wall of the first cut.
So I make the first cut on one end,
then swap ends, and rotate tube to the proper angle and cut second end.