Outside Water Spigot - Fail

[RalphVa]

I like crash325's suggestion for your case.

I replaced one on our daughter's condo. It was connected to CPVC inside. A relatively easy job.

One went out on the front of our house. Had our plumber replace it. Didn't take him long, but he could easily get to the copper pipe inside. I didn't watch what all he had to do.

I replaced the stem on 2 out of the 3 ones we had. Yours doesn't look like it allows that. The rubber seal inside where it shuts off the flow had sprung a leak on both of these.

Ralph

 

[JamesHW]

Why not try reseating the valve using an inexpensive valve reseating tool

 

[jlgurr]

Why not try reseating the valve using an inexpensive valve reseating tool

It's not the seal its internal thread is stripped. I can tighten until almost sealed then it pops back one thread and you have to start all over again. It's currently tightened to that point just before it slips a thread.

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[Gary Fowler]

I had to have 2 freeze proof faucets replaced that froze because I forgot to unhook the hoses. The plumber had to cut a hole in the wall to sweat on a new faucet. He brought and installed a plastic cover over the hole. It doesn't look bad and if ever I have to repair/replace those faucets again, just remove the cover, and replace the faucets. One was in my garage and one behind my wash room sink so both kind of hidden.

 

[jlgurr]

I had to have 2 freeze proof faucets replaced that froze because I forgot to unhook the hoses. The plumber had to cut a hole in the wall to sweat on a new faucet. He brought and installed a plastic cover over the hole. It doesn't look bad and if ever I have to repair/replace those faucets again, just remove the cover, and replace the faucets. One was in my garage and one behind my wash room sink so both kind of hidden.

I like that idea!

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[aircommuter]

Don't put too much weight on not cutting sheetrock, it is easy to repair and a good working faucet is more important.

 

[boomer1025]

My money says its soldered to the copper inside, and nothing will unscrew.

Either gain access inside to replace, or use a shutoff like suggested. I see in the pics you already have a double shutoff adapter on there. Does that not work or is it leaking elsewhere?

.
:thumbsup:

 

[zzvyb6]

That's not the original faucet handle. Remove it and you will see a hex headed fitting that MAY easily be unscrewed from the faucet body using a pipe wrench and a Stilson wrnch. At the end of the long valve body is a faucet washer that you can find in any old school hardware store. Don't look in Hobby Lobby, Michaels or Bed, Bath and Beyond. Those are plastic ones used to sip wine, dispense expresso and dribble soy milk into green tea.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Even if the faucet is threaded on, the replacement would have to be exactly the same length to work. You also wouldn't have any way of holding the copper adapter to keep it from spinning. If that faucet has been there for almost 40 years those threads are going to be stuck, if you turn the faucet with a wrench you're going to snap the copper off before the threaded connection gives. With a buried pipe like this the last thing you want is a slow leak where you stressed an old connection.

Make a hole in the drywall.

If possible, make the hole away from the corner, out in the middle of a wall or ceiling. It's easier to fix if it's all flat, and you only want to repaint one surface. Make the hole big enough to get in and work, a 16" hole is no more work to fix than a 4" hole. Ideally you want to assemble the faucet and pipe first, and then slide it all in and join it in the middle of your hole. That way you're only making one connection inside the wall and you're making it where you have good access. When sweating copper if you can't go all the way around it's easy to make a poor joint. Plus it's nice to be able to work in a spot where you're not worried about burning the house down.

I would get the faucet with the threaded end and a threaded-to-sweat copper adapter. I would sweat about a foot long piece of copper pipe into the adapter, and then attach the adapter onto the faucet. That way you don't have to put the torch to the faucet. I know they're supposed to be able to take it, but it's better not to. You don't want to be doing this again before another 40 years. If it's not a straight run assemble all the copper and then screw the faucet on last.

 

[check]

Threadlock? Plumber's stretchable thread sealing tape?

 

[GPintheMitten]

That faucet comes through the bond, between floor joists . Measure, find the location in the room below the joists. Cut the drywall ceiling in that area to expose the plumbing.

 

[dadster4]

Buy an access panel first so you will know what size hole will be possible to work through...12 x 12 is about what you need for room to work. Measure carefully to locate where to cut, standard length for a frost-free sillcock is 12" from the outside flange. Most likely, with copper piping, your dealing with a sweat connection and will need a small tubing cutter, torch, 95/5 solder, flame-proof blanket, and a fire extinguisher or spray bottle of water. Start with a small hole in wall until the end connection is located and then cut to size of the access panel. Valve out water line and drain completely and remove valve core from the new valve before applying heat! You may want to sweat in a short 3-4" piece of copper into the new valve outside the hole and use a coupling to make the connection to the existing piping, this will be easier and quicker to sweat than trying to sweat the new valve directly to the existing piping, and keeps torch time in the wall to a minimum. Good Luck!

 

[rekees4300]

Most likely, with copper piping, your dealing with a sweat connection and will need a small tubing cutter, torch, 95/5 solder, flame-proof blanket, and a fire extinguisher or spray bottle of water.

To avoid the whole soldering hassle and the possibility of burning down your house, consider Sharkbite push-to-connect fittings.

Homepage - SharkBite

 

[Zerk]

Tri level? Few steps to bedroom?

I like ranches for the big basement, but the houses boring. Similar.

 

[jlgurr]

Tri level? Few steps to bedroom? I like ranches for the big basement, but the houses boring. Similar.

Yep, from the front door you step up to the main living area and step down to the rec room and bedrooms.

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[Clint S]

To avoid the whole soldering hassle and the possibility of burning down your house, consider Sharkbite push-to-connect fittings.

Homepage - SharkBite

These things work well but are expensive, BUT when soldering in an enclosed space it would be WELL worth it. I have a water filter that came with them for installation and they went on with no issues.

 

[jlgurr]

Finally got around to finishing this. The cold weather is coming. Used the shark bite type fittings. I'll never solder in a tight place again. Purchased the access door panel too. Sure beats trying to patch Sheetrock. Thank you everyone for the tips.

 

[fidowanttobe]

Nice work. Relieved? I too am a fan of access panels. Wife, mmm, not so much. Sharkbites are awesome too for tight spaces.

 

[jlgurr]

The best part of this particular panel is that it's in the top corner of a bedroom closet. You won't notice it unless you were looking for it.

Definitely relieved to not be using the valved Y adapter as a shutoff now AND no cold weather worries.