Old to Me, Steiner 230 questions

[daugen]

$$$$ My labor hahaha.

Priceless! :thumbsup:
and entertaining too...

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

PTO is working. I pulled the seals off the bearings and lubed them.

 

[txdon]

PTO is working. .

Yea! Looks like you are have more things that's work than need replacing.

 

[johara1]

OK, so maybe instead of pulling on the hub, I should be pushing it back. I did try a tire iron in between the gap to separate them.....and it bent my tire iron. Maybe the BFH.

I took off the other side's tire, and it too, has slack in the shaft.....In and out about 1/8".....????

I drove it around a bit, and let the daughter drive it. She's only 15. I told her the back end swings out when you steer. It feels really weird when making tight turns. Something to get used to.

I think you have threaded bolt holes, you put bolts in them and screw them in separating the hub..... jim

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I think you have threaded bolt holes, you put bolts in them and screw them in separating the hub..... jim

Thank you. There are 2 holes, but they are not 180° apart. So I wasn't sure if they were for removal or not. I didn't really need to get hub off, I just wanted to be able to more easily clean up the brake shoes and hinge points. I found you can get the shoes off by unhooking the smaller springs that hold them against the backing plate, then separate them enough to get them over the spindle.

If I ever get it off, I will drill and tap a 3rd hole at 120° to more evenly torque back the taper.

On Thanksgiving day, a mechanic buddy came over, and he's been interested in getting this thing going too. I hooked up the mower deck, and was checking the accumulator traction control system. It works, and the gage works, but I blew the 1/4" hydraulic line to it, and sprayed myself with plenty of oil LOL.

So, I need some hydraulic lines, as originally expected, but I can operate the Beast without using the traction control spool for now. Need to wait for some more toy funds to come in to pursue.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

The wheel's hub has a bit of longitudinal slop. Trying to get wheel hub off. Anyone know the trick?
View attachment 677613View attachment 677614

If you look closely at the 2nd picture, you can see a sheared off cheap stainless bolt, where I had tried to push it off. Just make sure you use grade 8 to do this if you try it.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

So I checked the seat's switch, because it has to be pressed down for the PTO to work, and there was continuity.

Then I supplied 12volts to the PTO, and I can hear it click and the magnet/armature is working, so that is good. That leaves us with an electrical problem, maybe the rocker switch or the relay (which I haven't found yet) or both.

I got a lot of things greased, and working. All in all, a good day tater.

More later.

I piddled on the 230 today, amongst other things.

I believe a new rocker switch and harness adapter will get the electric PTO working again. It has an Ogura pto made in Japan. It's quite rusty. I'm debating taking it apart to sand the surface, or just let it "break in" again using the on and off many times method. Maybe the rusty surface will give it better grip than stock....

PTO hindsight:

The dash panel is mismarked. Turns out the rocker switch (marked PTO) is for the lights, and they work, and the push/pull switch (marked headlights) is for the PTO. So there was my confusion for the PTO not working when flipping the rocker switch (I had the lights disconnected).

One of the PTO's bearings has a metal flange spot welded or peened over it, thus complicating removal without destroying it. I was able to peel up the bearing's rubber seal, blow out most of the old grease, and put new grease in it. Did that for the front bearing too, that has a big snap ring holding it in. Both bearings looked decent with the seals off. So I'll go with them freshly greased, and a prayer.

 

[johara1]

If you run the bolt in and it is a taper lock it should release you don't need a puller. but the way you have the axle mashed up on the end, you may have expanded it....... jim

 

[johara1]

I just looked up the parts and hub is drawn into outer part that has the wheel studs into it with 3 bolts. You show none in the pics.... to remove the hub must come out of the outer part..... jim

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I just looked up the parts and hub is drawn into outer part that has the wheel studs into it with 3 bolts. You show none in the pics.... to remove the hub must come out of the outer part..... jim

OK, but it seems they'd have put 3 tapped holes instead of 2, at an odd angle between them too. If and when I take it off, I will tap a 3rd hole. I might tap one with a bottoming tap with it still on the axle.

Just make sure you use grade 8 bolts to push it off the wheel stud hub.

I found out today that Weingartz does NOT sell Steiner parts. I had noticed that their website still listed them, and they were 5-10% cheaper.