flyerdan
Veteran Member
That kind of looks like a Tecumseh mill on that, I've got a folder full of Briggs manuals but nothing for that. There is a manual for it online though.
Old engine not running, Craftsman brush trimmer
- Thread starter pripyat
- Start date
- Views: 3814
RandyT
Elite Member
The governor spring is there above the throttle shaft in your first picture in post number 1. the spring pulls the throttle open and the governor pulls the governor shut, and the two fight until they find a balance at the correct engine speed. I still say that you have a carb problem. Something to check is to remove the air filter and look into the carb, and then pump the primer bulb and see if you can see gas shoot up through the top of the nozzle. If no fuel then either the bowl nut is still clogged, or you have an air leak around the primer, or bowl gasket.
denchen
Gold Member
It seems as you are slowly getting there. I`ve just noticed you have a fuel filter, and most engines do not come with one as standard. I wonder if this is restricting the flow to the carb. .If the fuel tank and fuel is clean, I find a lot of these engines run better without one.
I have this rule around my garage - everything gets a fuel filter, everything uses no-ethanol fuel. It has worked well for me. I'm going to have to remove that filter anyway once I get it running right, there just isn't enough room for it. I didn't have enough fuel to rinse out the gas tank to ensure it was clean so I zip-tied the tank to the handle and used a fuel filter to rule out new trash in the carb while troubleshooting.
You guys have helped a lot. I got a ton of miscellaneous carb parts from my wife's grandfather's garage the other day. Extra jets, lots of springs and such. I actually ended up at urgent care to get stitches after an encounter with an edger but that is another story.
I noticed when running the engine that it started smoking once it got hot. When I drained the oil after I had the engine running for a while it ran out like water, it was extremely hot. I am wondering now if the oil was so nasty because of blow-by. Also wondering if the smoke was due to excess fuel.
The engine is definitely not running WOT. Based on your description of the operation of the engine, if I were to weaken the spring it would cause the rpm to increase? I'm wondering why that spring tab is bent so much. I have plenty of spare springs and can try unbending that tab. Is the goal to run the engine WOT? I'd love to get it running at the desired RPM and then adjust the jetting so it isn't running so rich.
Lastly, I flipped through the manual and it said not to use multi-weight oil. Perhaps this is why the oil was so thin when I drained it hot? Also may explain the smoking? I am using regular dino car oil at the moment, I think 10W30. I planned to use full synth rotella once I get most of the particulate flushed out.
Here is the engine when I thought it didn't run but apparently it just hadn't warmed up yet.
Shared album - Ernest H - Google Photos
You guys have helped a lot. I got a ton of miscellaneous carb parts from my wife's grandfather's garage the other day. Extra jets, lots of springs and such. I actually ended up at urgent care to get stitches after an encounter with an edger but that is another story.
I noticed when running the engine that it started smoking once it got hot. When I drained the oil after I had the engine running for a while it ran out like water, it was extremely hot. I am wondering now if the oil was so nasty because of blow-by. Also wondering if the smoke was due to excess fuel.
The engine is definitely not running WOT. Based on your description of the operation of the engine, if I were to weaken the spring it would cause the rpm to increase? I'm wondering why that spring tab is bent so much. I have plenty of spare springs and can try unbending that tab. Is the goal to run the engine WOT? I'd love to get it running at the desired RPM and then adjust the jetting so it isn't running so rich.
Lastly, I flipped through the manual and it said not to use multi-weight oil. Perhaps this is why the oil was so thin when I drained it hot? Also may explain the smoking? I am using regular dino car oil at the moment, I think 10W30. I planned to use full synth rotella once I get most of the particulate flushed out.
Here is the engine when I thought it didn't run but apparently it just hadn't warmed up yet.
Shared album - Ernest H - Google Photos
RandyT
Elite Member
The governor spring opens the throttle, so reducing the tension will reduce the engine speed. You would need to pull the spring tighter, or in this case bend that tab even more to increase engine speed. Just make sure you know what speed the engine is actuallty running at and not just guessing. I have seen a few engines with the tab bend that far from the factory so it may be normal for that engine. Also Tecumseh should have a fuel filter built into the tank. It normally looks like a screen in the bottom corner near the fuel outlet.
I got a bunch if miscellaneous parts from the small machine repair garage. I ended up with three different jets for this carburetor, there was a 66 in the carb, and there are two 65's. I confirmed that the 66 is slightly larger than the 65. There was a little bit of smoke coming out the exhaust when the engine was warm, I'm not sure if it is burning oil or if it was running extremely rich. I stuck the 65 in the carburetor and it did seem to eliminate some of the smoke. The carb runs great if the hole in the primer bulb is plugged. Otherwise the rpm varies a lot.
Browser no longer supported
Maybe I need a primer bulb without the hole?
Browser no longer supported
Maybe I need a primer bulb without the hole?
RandyT
Elite Member
Pulled up parts diagram for the carb and it looks like primer no hole.
stuckmotor
Super Member
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2009
- Messages
- 5,303
- Location
- Lower Up State S.C.
- Tractor
- AC WD 34 hp/3500 lbs MF 261 60 hp/5380 lbs
Pripyat,
I once replaced the tiny red fuel filter on my mother's Snapper Rear Engine Rider with a larger clear one. The engine repeatedly only ran for a few minutes before it quit. When I replaced the clear filter with a tiny red one, the problem was solved. Fast forward five years or so and someone said the clear filters were made for engines with fuel pumps. Whether this was correct and whether you have the same clear filter I had, I don't know. I hope you have the good luck I had if you remove the clear filter from the equation.
I once replaced the tiny red fuel filter on my mother's Snapper Rear Engine Rider with a larger clear one. The engine repeatedly only ran for a few minutes before it quit. When I replaced the clear filter with a tiny red one, the problem was solved. Fast forward five years or so and someone said the clear filters were made for engines with fuel pumps. Whether this was correct and whether you have the same clear filter I had, I don't know. I hope you have the good luck I had if you remove the clear filter from the equation.
Can anyone point me to a manual or give me a description of this engine? I found a ton of Tecumseh manuals but I'm not sure which engine I have.
I'd really like to check the valve clearance before I put too many hours on it. If the engine oil was changed the last time the valves were checked, it is beyond overdue.
I'd really like to check the valve clearance before I put too many hours on it. If the engine oil was changed the last time the valves were checked, it is beyond overdue.
