Old Bush Hog 3 Pt hitch height problem

[rfc143]

I'm restoring an old Bush Hog a neighbor farmer gave me. The 3 Pt hitch seems very high. Even with the lift arms all the way up, it barely lifts the tail wheel off the ground. My lift arms are in the lower hole, so I know I can use the upper hole, which might give me a few more inches of lift, but does this situation seem normal? The lower pins on the Hog are 20" above the ground; My Alamo Flail mower, when down has them at almost half that (12").

The farmer used this with his Case tractor which is smaller than my Kubota; I thought the height of 3 Pt Hitches was standard, although it seems that Cat II and III are higher.

Any ideas?

 

[Gunny]

Is your top link adjusted right when the bush hog is down? Shortening the top link would raise the rear wheel.

 

[LD1]

Things weren't real standard back when that bushhog was made.

Looks OEM to me. Try the other holes in your liftarms and indeed shorten the toplink

 

[countrybumpkin]

I would just drill new holes in the uprights for the two mounting bolts then cut the excess off this will lower the entire three point assembly allowing for a better fit and lift. Just be careful not to shorten them to much, other wise the pto shaft could hit the front edge of the mower deck when lifted to full hight and bend the shaft.

 

[jeff9366]

Enlarging your picture it appears you have the pin adjustment for your Lifting Rod stirrups in the lowest hole.

If you move the pin to the upper hole on both right and left hand Lifting Rod stirrups, the Bush Hog will lift at least 5" higher.

On my Kubota L3560 the upper holes are the "normal" adjustment. I use the lower holes primarily when I want my Cultivator to penetrate soil deeper.

Three Poiint Hitch adjustments can be confusing. For the Lifting Rod pin adjustment think: HIGHER HOLES = HIGHER LIFT


Shortening the Tip Link will also lift the tail wheel of the Bush Hog.

 

[N80]

Three Poiint Hitch adjustments can be confusing.

That is an understatement! I find 3 point hitch geometry to be brilliant in conception and design but very hard to get my head around when setting up my rotary cutter and especially getting a two bottom plow to engage properly. I've been doing this for 12 years and most of the time it is still trial-and-error. Fortunately I've got the trial-and-error cycle down to a minimum.....just don't ask me to explain it!

 

[scdeerslayer]

It looks like your top link is in the highest hole on the tractor side. Move it at least to the middle hole, the lowest hole would probably be best.

 

[TerryR]

That's a Bush Hog Squealer from around 1997 - same one as shown in my avatar. The hitch is standard cat 1. If you can't lift the rear wheel you probably have the top link too long. I have to screw mine up quite a bit to lift the rear wheel.

 

[airbiscuit]

My Kingkutter Rotary Mower has the following heights to pins.

Side pins 17 1/2"

Center Pin 40"

 

[rfc143]

Thanks for all the comments! And thanks TerryR for identifying the vintage. I moved the lift "stirrups" to the upper hole; left the top link where it was and have plenty of height. I poured some 90 weight gear lube in the box (It was half filled with grease), took it for a spin, and it seemed to work great.
I then decided to spend some time "restoring" it...the A frame was pranged as was one angle bracket holding the A frame. Wheel caster is pretty bent too. I tried getting the bolts holding all of that together off (that have been on there sitting out in the field for 20 years), using the biggest badass wrenches I had, with less than stellar results. Had to cut one off.
I think I can get some more life out of this thing. Why do they call it a "squealer"?

 

[boggen]

pull your "turn buckle" (2 threaded eye bolts, with long nut) top link off your tractor, and pickup a bar/chain (short bar, and some chain) to use as a top link for when running the rotary cutter.

you can go all chain. but you might fight the connection point on back of tractor were top link connects.

the chain will let the rear end of rotary cutter "float" more with the terrain. more so when dealing with ditches. the rear end of the rotary cutter will follow the hills of ditch a little better within reason. and you will end up seeing the "skids / skis" on the side of the rotary cutter being used more.

if you need to backup on a nasty thorn bush. and you can't get deck raised up enough, stop redo chain a little bit. and re-raise deck up nice and high. then once done, redo chain. vs monkey around with a turn buckle

============
errr re-looking at picture.... there is already a chain. running near were top link on tractor connects to rotary cutter. and then runs further back on the rotary cutter. adjust this chain. to help raise/lower rear end of the rotary cutter. when you want to lift it up. just be careful this chain does not some how wrap around the PTO shaft / slip clutch and damage something.

 

[LD1]

Or just put the toplink in the lower hole. It will cause the tailwheel to raise much faster / higher in relation to the front of the cutter, but still be level at operating height.

 

[TerryR]

And thanks TerryR for identifying the vintage.

You're welcome. I don't know how long that model was made, only that I bought mine in 1997. So yours is probably somewhere in that range.

 

[rfc143]

pull your "turn buckle" (2 threaded eye bolts, with long nut) top link off your tractor, and pickup a bar/chain (short bar, and some chain) to use as a top link for when running the rotary cutter.

you can go all chain. but you might fight the connection point on back of tractor were top link connects.

the chain will let the rear end of rotary cutter "float" more with the terrain. more so when dealing with ditches. the rear end of the rotary cutter will follow the hills of ditch a little better within reason. and you will end up seeing the "skids / skis" on the side of the rotary cutter being used more.

if you need to backup on a nasty thorn bush. and you can't get deck raised up enough, stop redo chain a little bit. and re-raise deck up nice and high. then once done, redo chain. vs monkey around with a turn buckle

============
errr re-looking at picture.... there is already a chain. running near were top link on tractor connects to rotary cutter. and then runs further back on the rotary cutter. adjust this chain. to help raise/lower rear end of the rotary cutter. when you want to lift it up. just be careful this chain does not some how wrap around the PTO shaft / slip clutch and damage something.

Thanks for the tips. If backing into brush, is it better to keep the deck low and let it "climb" as it pushes over saplings, or lift it high, like those guys that mow the roadsides with their "arm" mounted monster bush hogs out to the side?

 

[boggen]

Thanks for the tips. If backing into brush, is it better to keep the deck low and let it "climb" as it pushes over saplings, or lift it high, like those guys that mow the roadsides with their "arm" mounted monster bush hogs out to the side?

i would be better off stating. make sure you know how to adjust your slip clutch. and make sure it is set correctly.

google/youtube "slip clutch" and find out what you most likely need to do min once a year. to make sure slip clutch is in working order.

i say above, because, to many variables and each situation / bush different. and making sure your saftey protection of tractor is in place before you try to take on to much.

========
if sapling is 1" or larger, prefer just using a chain saw, and dropping blade into dirt to cut right off at ground level (more likely go through chains quicker but *shrugs*). the bigger diameter stuff, just seems to leave a nasty stump, for a few years to come, that some how i always manage to find with my foot. and more so, end up seeing tires "scraped up" on the tractor. also the larger stuff, does not always cut up nicely, leaving long strips of bark, to just beating the heck of the sapling, but not really cutting it up. just kinda stripping it of all the small little branches and leaves.

i also get uneasy driving forward over larger saplings, to easy for a branch to snag something under tractor. (hose, wire, something) and bring you down to a stand still. bush guards on the front, and belly pans can help reduce a lot of risk. but still.

i dealt with more "multi flower rose" bushes. nuisance bush. the thorns can be rather long and nasty for tires. and some times only way to get rotary cutter on them is raising deck up some what (within reason) and lowering down on them. and taking small bites at a time (kinda like taking half passes with a finishing mower deck due to grass is to tall). trying to take entire bush on at once, more likely branches tangling up on everything and then needing to manual get the old gloves, cutters, etc... out and pulling the thorny branches out from the rotary deck by hand.

 

[jimmysisson]

I always assumed there were the bush Hogs, and the the lighter Squealers, as in piglets. I just made that up: anyone know for sure about the name?
Jim

 

[rfc143]

Got all the bent parts straightened! Took it for a spin. Looking good. But now I can not find the manual I swear I found on line just two days ago. Need the length of the spring on the torque limiter. Would it be the same as on the SQ160? That calls for 1.08". I've loosened it up and spun it; then tightened it some. It's getting warm though, so I think it's still slipping. Anyone with a hog like this know the setting? Or point me to the operator's manual? Thanks!

 

[jeff9366]

I always assumed there were the bush Hogs, and the the lighter Squealers, as in piglets. I just made that up: anyone know for sure about the name?
Jim

I believe Bush Hogs are assembled in Georgia. I believe Squealers are imported, mostly assembled, from Asia.

I could be wrong.