Oily Clutch!

[Southernspeed]

I’m sure this story sounds familiar. I badly needed to rebuild the steering gearbox, then when I’d got that removed I thought I may as well split the tractor and do the clutch that will need replacing in the near future…. and then there’s that noisy transmission bearing ….
So steering g/box is on the bench, rebuilt.
Trans is stripped awaiting parts.
Clutch stripped awaiting parts.
But now the flywheel is off I’m looking at a very oily housing. One possibility is that the steering g/box had NO oil in it, just remnants of grease around the gears. Someone had replaced the roller bearings with those nylon bushes but they had worn badly. Freeze plug just about fell out so IF they’d put oil in there, that could’ve leaked through.
But how susceptible are 8Ns to oil leaks from the engine? ( rear main seal or camshaft plug) I really don’t want to be doing a full engine strip right now. I also don’t want to mothball it, in pieces, until winter

 

[ruffdog]

Did they have the weep hole plugged?

 

[Southernspeed]

Did they have the weep hole plugged?

The cotter pin was in there but it was a pretty tight fit and was gummed up with sludge. There was no volume of oil in there as such, but everything in there has a thick greasy coating.

 

[John0829]

Looks like a typical 8N clutch housing. N's leak usually from the input shaft of the transmission and unless you know how to properly install the rear main seal of the engine it is a sure thing it will leak. The old engines use a rope seal, which I REALLY like. Put in correctly they are IMHO one of the best you can have, again, as long as it is installed correctly.

Seeing oil on the clutch side of the flywheel makes me think you have some coming from the transmission input. Which you will take care of when you finish your transmission R&R. When you finish the steering gear box I suggest you fill it with corn head grease, also known as MP0, it is less likely to leak while still providing great lubrication for the gear box.

As for the rear main, that is up to you. I personally hate leaks of any kind but if the engine was not using oil it might be better to leave it be. What ever you do make SURE the weep hole is open and has a cotter key in it.

 

[Southernspeed]

Looks like a typical 8N clutch housing. N's leak usually from the input shaft of the transmission and unless you know how to properly install the rear main seal of the engine it is a sure thing it will leak. The old engines use a rope seal, which I REALLY like. Put in correctly they are IMHO one of the best you can have, again, as long as it is installed correctly.

Seeing oil on the clutch side of the flywheel makes me think you have some coming from the transmission input. Which you will take care of when you finish your transmission R&R. When you finish the steering gear box I suggest you fill it with corn head grease, also known as MP0, it is less likely to leak while still providing great lubrication for the gear box.

As for the rear main, that is up to you. I personally hate leaks of any kind but if the engine was not using oil it might be better to leave it be. What ever you do make SURE the weep hole is open and has a cotter key in it.

Thanks for your input. The tractor is new to me so I don’t know if it uses much oil yet.
I was wondering about corn head grease. I’ll look into that further. I’ve seen a few posts and videos making the argument for it.

 

[John0829]

I don't think you can go wrong using corn head grease, it is what I use in my steering and cutter gear boxes and have for years.

 

[Southernspeed]

Well I think I’ve found another likely source of oil contamination, this is the seal that sits in the input shaft. Barely any rubber lip left!

 

[John0829]

I do believe you just might have found something.

 

[ruffdog]

At least the spring is still intact.

 

[5030]

You need to check the bearing behind that seal to make sure it's not shot as well. seals don't wear like that without excessive shaft wobble.

One thing you don't have to worry about is rust as the interior of the bell housing is well rust proofed...

 

[EdGooding]

What year is your 8N or which steering gear box you are rebuilding? The 8N had two, the later one was the better one to rebuild. The pre- mid-'49 had four bolts:

The later, mid-'49 to '52 one only has two bolts:

I can show you where to install a grease zerk to help you grease it when I know which one. I definitely agree that cornhead grease is better than oil for the gear box.

 

[Southernspeed]

You need to check the bearing behind that seal to make sure it's not shot as well. seals don't wear like that without excessive shaft wobble.

One thing you don't have to worry about is rust as the interior of the bell housing is well rust proofed...

I've just replaced all the transmission bearings as there was a noisy one. There wasn't any perceivable play but the input shaft needed replacing too as the 'race' in the gear was a bit pitted.

 

[Southernspeed]

What year is your 8N or which steering gear box you are rebuilding? The 8N had two, the later one was the better one to rebuild. The pre- mid-'49 had four bolts:
View attachment 810415
The later, mid-'49 to '52 one only has two bolts:
View attachment 810416
I can show you where to install a grease zerk to help you grease it when I know which one. I definitely agree that cornhead grease is better than oil for the gear box.

It's a '51. I've seen a video about drilling and tapping the r/h side bolt on the column at top bearing level. I'll do that when I've got some corn grease and make a decision on it's use. I won't know until I see it's consistency. Thanks.

 

[EdGooding]

It's a '51. I've seen a video about drilling and tapping the r/h side bolt on the column at top bearing level. I'll do that when I've got some corn grease and make a decision on it's use. I won't know until I see it's consistency. Thanks.

 

[HenryIV]

Kinda late answer but if you go through the trouble of a split, there is not too much additional cost to remove the big spline and replace the bearings and the seals. If you don't, oil seeps into you clutch pack and you are splitting the tractor again. I don't hink it cost me even $400 to replace all the seals, bearings, clutch plates and springs and now I shift and pull with a smile like this. (plates plus items 1, 3, 5 and maybe 6)
)