non pro building sight level????

[RDrancher]

RDrancher somehow I missed this post, I like the holder your Dad made. I think I have found my answer. Thanks

Not my Dad's idea, but a great one. I had that thread bookmarked from a previous search. Most of my Dad's ideas involved bugger welding, baling wire and duct tape! :laughing:

 

[Dutch445]

The transit doesn't move much material either! ;-)

But I think....if you use the leveling tools of your choice to SET GRADE PEGS in the ground, you can do just about anything you want to between the grade pegs, and always come back and pull a string to see how you are progressing.

for rough grading a string level would get you real close, used in combination with stakes around the perimeter.

 

[paulharvey]

for rough grading a string level would get you real close, used in combination with stakes around the perimeter.

Just keep in mind, the farther you pull the string, the more sag you get. It works, just remember it's limitations.

 

[vtsnowedin]

I have a lot of dirt to move and was hoping for something that I could use for grade work. Wouldn't the hose be hard to grade with?

You drive wooden stakes in on both sides of your work area. use the hose level to mark them at the same level and stretch a string line between the marks. Then measure down anywhere on the string to check the level of your grading work. With stakes at all four corners you can do all the edges plus the diagonals to get the center.
I'd actually rent a contractors level and rod from my local rental place and drive in enough stakes and level them in one afternoon then use string and ruler as the work progresses. Built interstate road beds that way for years.

 

[CurlyDave]

A lot of people do not really understand water levels (hose with transparent tubes on ends).

1. This is the most accurate level available at any price. Every time a contractor sneers at my water level and claims his $2000 laser is "more accurate" I don't hire him and put him on my do not call list. He does not not understand enough science to be effective.

2. I have laser level because it is faster for one person, but any time I set forms I double check with a water level. Lasers need calibration, and it is a royal pain to do it with my Bosch. Others may be better.

3. While the most simple drawing of a water level shows one hose with two ends, this is not an inherent limitation. Shorter hose lengths can be joined together with a simple hose outlet "Y" to make three-armed levels, or two "Ys" for a 4-armed level. A plastic "Y" is only a couple of dollars in the garden department of most stores, and being able to check level at many places at the same time speeds up jobs considerably.

 

[RDrancher]

A lot of people do not really understand water levels (hose with transparent tubes on ends).

1. This is the most accurate level available at any price. Every time a contractor sneers at my water level and claims his $2000 laser is "more accurate" I don't hire him and put him on my do not call list. He does not not understand enough science to be effective.

2. I have laser level because it is faster for one person, but any time I set forms I double check with a water level. Lasers need calibration, and it is a royal pain to do it with my Bosch. Others may be better.

3. While the most simple drawing of a water level shows one hose with two ends, this is not an inherent limitation. Shorter hose lengths can be joined together with a simple hose outlet "Y" to make three-armed levels, or two "Ys" for a 4-armed level. A plastic "Y" is only a couple of dollars in the garden department of most stores, and being able to check level at many places at the same time speeds up jobs considerably.

Yes, using pyramid technology works, but time is money for those of us that make our living in construction. But then again...I've seen a few of past posts bagging on contractors, so I shouldn't be surprised.

The OP specifically asked about grading, where a water level would just be a pita. Using a builder's level, transit or laser to set stakes and then check grade makes a lot more sense.

 

[BHD]

string levels are not bad for a quick process, put the level in the middle of the string so it in the middle of the sag of the string, (even when pulled tight the string will have a sag), Amazon.com: string level: Tools & Home Improvement

but your water level is about as accurate as one can get, usually one will need a post to work from and then measure down,

the tripod levels, sited or laser, all one has to do is bump it and things are messed up,

take a string level and one can get a close idea for rough lay out, will need two people one to watch the level and one to move the sting, (can be done by one self if you like to walk a lot),

I have never used one but some people like the hand level for a quick check, one can use a post for a repeatable height to work of over, Johnson Level & Tool Handheld Sight Level | Sight Automatic Transit Levels| Northern Tool + Equipment
or
CST/Berger 17-620A Hand Level - Construction Marking Tools - Amazon.com

 

[mikefromnh]

A lot of people do not really understand water levels (hose with transparent tubes on ends).

1. This is the most accurate level available at any price. Every time a contractor sneers at my water level and claims his $2000 laser is "more accurate" I don't hire him and put him on my do not call list. He does not not understand enough science to be effective.

2. I have laser level because it is faster for one person, but any time I set forms I double check with a water level. Lasers need calibration, and it is a royal pain to do it with my Bosch. Others may be better.

3. While the most simple drawing of a water level shows one hose with two ends, this is not an inherent limitation. Shorter hose lengths can be joined together with a simple hose outlet "Y" to make three-armed levels, or two "Ys" for a 4-armed level. A plastic "Y" is only a couple of dollars in the garden department of most stores, and being able to check level at many places at the same time speeds up jobs considerably.

The other nice thing is they can be used around corners. Very handy when leveling an existing cabin. You can walk from room to room and set a reference mark so you know how much to adjust each post.

 

[mikefromnh]

Yes, using pyramid technology works, but time is money for those of us that make our living in construction. But then again...I've seen a few of past posts bagging on contractors, so I shouldn't be surprised.

The OP specifically asked about grading, where a water level would just be a pita. Using a builder's level, transit or laser to set stakes and then check grade makes a lot more sense.

OP asked for a cheap and accurate way to set grade. With a $50 zircon water level which allows one person to work alone you can quickly set a few grade stakes. It might be a little slower but it won't be any less accurate. Definitely cheaper.

Once you get used to one it's probably not any slower then getting a laser out and finding some to hold the grade rod. You jet set the water level on a post and cut a reference to stick that locates your final height...then just walk around the area to see how much grade needs to be brought up.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I bought a Top Con 5 or something like that last summer. Awesome unit, 2000 foot or something range. Anyway, looked at renting and never like that option, or buying used, and I guess the price is coming down because guys still want big bucks for their older models.

So I bought new, off E-Bay and my reasonig is, that I can use a nice new piece of equipment, use it as long as I like, get good results from my projects and then if I wish sell it, in probably like new condition. So the end cost is really not that high! To me it was a no brainer!

Plus I am sure that I can help out a friend or so.

 

[jenkinsph]

I bought a DeWalt laser about 6 years ago and it is still accurate. Worked a many a job with it and for short shots of 200' or less it is as good as I ever needed for most construction work. These low cost lasers use an 18v DeWalt rechargeable battery pack that works with their other power tools and are good for a weeks work on a single charge.


For grade work in fields I use a Topcon RL200 2 slope laser and a Topcon lsb 110 receiver mounted to my box blade. This takes most of the work out of grading a long distance with accuracy.

 

[Ed of all trades]

I have never used one but some people like the hand level for a quick check, one can use a post for a repeatable height to work of over, Johnson Level & Tool Handheld Sight Level | Sight Automatic Transit Levels| Northern Tool + Equipment
or
CST/Berger 17-620A Hand Level - Construction Marking Tools - Amazon.com[/QUOTE]

I saw one of these on a job I worked in Pa installing underground plumbing for a medical building. The guy running the hoe had one and it got him close enough . We had to surround the pipe with gravel so he just wanted to be close. Would be nice to have one to use for rough grading and a level on a tripod for finish.

 

[paulharvey]

I have never used one but some people like the hand level for a quick check, one can use a post for a repeatable height to work of over, Johnson Level & Tool Handheld Sight Level | Sight Automatic Transit Levels| Northern Tool + Equipment
or
CST/Berger 17-620A Hand Level - Construction Marking Tools - Amazon.com

I saw one of these on a job I worked in Pa installing underground plumbing for a medical building. The guy running the hoe had one and it got him close enough . We had to surround the pipe with gravel so he just wanted to be close. Would be nice to have one to use for rough grading and a level on a tripod for finish.[/QUOTE]

We called it a "Locke level". Lot of older pipe guys would have one to get a water line or other non critical utility close. It would say +/- 0.1 ft in a 100 ft. Close enough for general dirt work (typically +/- 0.3 ft) but not sewer, finished road base or concrete (generally +/- 0.25 inch).

I've never used one, but I understand there is a bubble level inside to make sure your holding it level; since it isn't fixed to a tripod. They normally use a probe rod to hold it on to steady it.

 

[truckdiagnostics]

Referencing post #32 for the price it is worth a look. I wonder if you could trust it enough to lay drain tile? I like the pole stand in post #8. I do believe I will be building one of those.

 

[PhysAssist]

Do yourself a favor and get yourself a rotary laser level.
It will save you a ton of time and fuel and you will get very accurate results.
I bet you could do your job and sell it when your done and get most of your money back.
Only problem is you'll probably realize you can't live without it after and keep it don't ask me how I know that :thumbsup:

I got mine from big Sky tool as a refurb and it has been excellent.

I agree with Reg- once I got it, I really couldn't believe how much I found to use it for...
T

 

[vtsnowedin]

I saw one of these on a job I worked in Pa installing underground plumbing for a medical building. The guy running the hoe had one and it got him close enough . We had to surround the pipe with gravel so he just wanted to be close. Would be nice to have one to use for rough grading and a level on a tripod for finish.

We called it a "Locke level". Lot of older pipe guys would have one to get a water line or other non critical utility close. It would say +/- 0.1 ft in a 100 ft. Close enough for general dirt work (typically +/- 0.3 ft) but not sewer, finished road base or concrete (generally +/- 0.25 inch).

I've never used one, but I understand there is a bubble level inside to make sure your holding it level; since it isn't fixed to a tripod. They normally use a probe rod to hold it on to steady it.

I used one of these for years on road jobs. Side stakes every fifty feet leveled with a transit to hundredths of a foot (1/8") then measure up on a high stake beside it to an even cut or fill to finish grade. Pull in with a cloth tape to the distance needed Say to edge of subgrade and drive another high stake then use your hand level and six foot folding rule to put an even cut of fill mark on that stake etc. Yes if carefully done with a properly adjusted level you could hold an inch in a hundred feet. When we got to top of crushed gravel they would bring in a survey crew with a dumpy level and drive Blue top wooden pegs to grade +/- 1/4 " so the bottom of the pavement was very close and you didn't waste any mix filling in low spots. A grade foreman would drive and mark about twenty stakes for each fifty foot station or 2000 per mile. With the advent of GPS controlled grader blades they drive a lot less stakes today.

 

[Sfrankland]

I have tried this and it works great once you get it setup.

http://youtu.be/sklWQQGnC4o

 

[dieselscout80]

I have tried this and it works great once you get it setup.

http://youtu.be/sklWQQGnC4o

That is slick!!!

I know my skill with a mini-excavator would have to improve a bunch before that would work for me.

 

[blucoondawg]

I've got this one, it's the cheapest one they had at Menard's I bought it for installing a couple drop ceilings. Runs off AA batteries. They have a receiver that mounts on a story pole for 90 bucks. The laser is hard to see outside but is supposed to work out to a couple hundred feet with the receiver. I haven't got the receiver yet but plan to once I start building my garage pad. It's very accurate for my uses indoors over shorter distances. They have more expensive models too.

https://www.menards.com/main/mobile...g-rotary-laser-level-kit/p-1339287-c-9145.htm

 

[jenkinsph]

I've got this one, it's the cheapest one they had at Menard's I bought it for installing a couple drop ceilings. Runs off AA batteries. They have a receiver that mounts on a story pole for 90 bucks. The laser is hard to see outside but is supposed to work out to a couple hundred feet with the receiver. I haven't got the receiver yet but plan to once I start building my garage pad. It's very accurate for my uses indoors over shorter distances. They have more expensive models too.

https://www.menards.com/main/mobile...g-rotary-laser-level-kit/p-1339287-c-9145.htm

This laser might work fine for small rooms installing a suspended ceiling. For outdoors with longer distances involved it isn't accurate enough with +- 1/8"/30ft.