Newbie trying to nail down type & brands

/ Newbie trying to nail down type & brands #1  

Catia1313

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Greetings All, I'm here to learn, & seek advice. We will be moving rural, just a small almost 2 acre lot. We will most likely be purchasing used & within 150-200 miles of SW PA. I am trying to narrow down what would work best for me/us & have read here for a few years while I dreamt of getting out of the city. Now it appears to be happening for real, so I need assistance.
Mostly this will be used for cutting grass, but I would also like the ability to haul rocks/dirt/wood etc from one side of the yard to the other, & possibly plow snow, but the plow isn't as necessary.
I drool over the Wheel Horses, but know they aren't often available. Other brands we are considering are ariens, bolen, honda, craftsman. No MTD.
Neither my hubby, nor I have ever operated a riding mower, or tractor, so we are serious NEWBIES. Please be kind, because I may ask stupid questions. We are in our 50's, so we've got a bit of catching up to do. Again, this will be primarily for mowing, however we need some hauling capability. The property is a mixture of flat area and slopes. We are on a budget and will probably not be purchasing from a dealer, we will be looking locally in rural areas because there are lots of used available. Thank you in advance.
 
/ Newbie trying to nail down type & brands #2  
Neither my hubby, nor I have ever operated a riding mower or tractor.

Tractor will be primarily for mowing, however we need some hauling capability.

The property is a mixture of flat area and slopes.




T-B-N ARCHIVE:

I have a 5 acre property that's divided into "upper" and "lower" by a reasonable slope. Approximately 2 acres is house/driveway/yard, the remaining 3 acres is wooded. I have a shared 1/4 mile gravel driveway.

Immediate need is maintaining the driveway, mowing, moving materials like mulch, and removing light snow. I see myself cutting paths through the property, clearing some undergrowth, moving some dirt, etc.

So I'm looking to replace my little JD garden tractor with a tractor with a loader and a MM mower deck. I'm stuck at my first decision on whether or not it's overkill to step up to a compact like a 2025r, B2301 or any number of other models.
Click to expand...
For five acres either a subcompact or compact tractor will serve. 4-WD should provide traction on your sloped land with R4/industrial tires.

Have you performed your own service on your Lawn &Garden Tractor? If so, you can perform routine service on either a subcompact or compact tractor.

Subcompact tractors with a Mid Mount Mower have about 3" or ground clearance with mower attached, 9" ground clearance with mower removed. Removing and replacing MMM is easier than in the past but still not fun. Minimal 9" ground clearance can make working in woodland difficult. Subcompacts have two-range (2) HST transmissions. Subcompacts generally draw 48" wide implements.

Compact tractors of 1,600 - 1,800 pounds bare tractor weight have larger wheels and tires. Larger wheels yield greater ground clearance, usually at least 12", and a much smoother ride over rough ground. Compact tractors have greater FEL lift capacity than Subcompacts and usually have three-range (3) HST transmissions. Compact tractors generally draw 54" or 60" implements. Allowing for a 5" overlap in use, a considerable improvement over 48" implements.

Either a subcompact or compact tractor will operate a MMM equally well. The compact will be a TINY amount less maneuverable.

If you can afford a 1,600 - 1,800 pound Compact, go for it. If you consider Kubota, focus on the B2650.


The MMM is a inferior mowing option IMO. MMMs cost close to a used ZTR and get in the way of doing anything else. The loader also gets in the way of mowing.
I too recommend a Zero Turn Mower for lawn mowing. Or keep your L&G tractor and skip new tractor MMM. Instead, acquire a Bush Hog with your new tractor for trails and your meadow.


VIDEO: Kubota BX Series VS. B Series - YouTube



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


I'm looking at a 2012 Kubota BX2660 with a loader and 60 inch belly mower with 50 hours for $11,000. From what I've found that is a very good price around me. Who has this tractor, and how did you like it? I've already read a bunch about being careful with the transmission cooler being exposed. More importantly how does this machine perform dragging/loading decent size logs, nothing crazy. Moving snow, finish mowing without turf tires, moving dirt and gravel, maintaining driveway with box blade. Does anyone have real world experience with the loader capacity?
I have 7 acres, I do all my work by hand right now so anything will be better than that. Where do you think the Subcompact would come up short?
BX series tractor are best regarded as wonderful lawn mowers with the ability to do light landscaping tasks. Kubota sells bazillions of BX tractors yearly and many owners are completely happy with them.

With only 9" ground clearance with mower removed, it is difficult to take a BX into woodlands. Because of low ground clearance, HST cooling fan under the tractor is vulnerable to ground damage. Those who take BX tractors into woodlands often armor underneath. Several venders sell armor kits.

Removing/replacing a Mid Mount Mower, with its front PTO shaft, is a tedious, sweaty task.

VENDER: BXpanded Under Armor


FEL bucket lift capacity is around 500 pounds. Not much by tractor standards BUT SURE BEATS TRUNDLING A WHEELBARROW OF 80 POUNDS CAPACITY. Tractor is 1,389 pounds bare tractor. With a full bucket, the tractor can be a bit unstable.....but so are other tractors. Front axle is thin. Plan to keep 350 to 450 pounds counterbalance mounted on the Three Point Hitch when doing Loader work. Weight behind the robust rear axle unloads weight from the relatively weak front axle.

Four reasons owner/operators trade up from a BX:
More tractor weight.
More FEL lift capacity.
Greater ground clearance
Three-range (3) HST rather than two-range (2) HST on BX. (Lower LOW, Higher, HIGH)

The BX tractors are solid for what they are. Excellent first tractors. Easy to service yourself.

If mowing is your primary task you may be happy for years. BX will do your other tasks but will be somewhat slow. (Allowing for 5" overlap, a 48" Box Blade only works 43" per pull.)

You can tow log sections with a BX and 1/4" Grade 70 chain. Saw trunks into reasonable weight sections. Tractors are designed to PULL.
Cross-drawbar PHOTO.
MORE: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...h-cross-2.html ((Cursor down to Post #14.))
PHOTOS: KUBOTA B3300SU


Selling a used tractor is easy. Selling multiple light implements in order to buy heavier, wider implements for a new, heavier tractor requires a lot of time. Depreciation on implements is generally greater than depreciation on a tractor.
 
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/ Newbie trying to nail down type & brands #3  
Ground clearance due to larger wheels and tires is the single greatest difference in tractor specs between (all brands) of Subcompact tractors and the lightest Compact tractors. Larger wheels and tires permit compact tractors to bridge holes, ruts and tree debris with less operator perturbation relative to subcompact tractors. One can mow a field faster with larger wheels and tires. One of two mph with larger wheels/tires will significantly reduce field mowing time.



BX or B??
Property is 8 acres. Flat but bumpy old farmland which hasnt been cared for in 2-3 years.

BX series tractor are best regarded as wonderful lawn mowers with the ability to do light landscaping tasks. Kubota sells bazillions of BX tractors yearly and many owners are completely happy with them on one or two acres.

Minimal 9" ground clearance can make working in woodland difficult. If one wheel drops into a 4-1/2" burrow or rut and a second wheel goes up on a 4-1/2" mound or tree limb you may be stranded. Because of low ground clearance, HST cooling fan under the tractor is vulnerable to ground damage. Those who take BX tractors into woodlands often armor underneath. Several venders sell BX undercarriage armor kits.

Subcompacts have two-range (2) HST transmissions. In HIGH range your max ground speed over uneven ground will be around six mph. You may find traversing eight acres with 400 pound to 500 pound bucket loads tedious at six mph.

Slightly larger 'Compact tractors' of 1,600 - 1,800 pounds bare tractor weight have larger wheels and tires. Larger wheels yield greater ground clearance, usually at least 12", and a much smoother ride over rough ground. With 12" ground clearance you can tractor cultivate a garden until crop reaches 12" to 14" height. Compact tractors have greater FEL lift capacity than Subcompacts. Subcompacts generally draw 48" wide implements. Compact tractors generally draw 54" or 60" implements. Allowing for a 5" overlap in use, a considerable improvement over 48" implements.

Five reasons owner/operators trade up from a BX:
More tractor weight.
More FEL lift capacity.
Greater ground clearance
Three-range (3) HST rather than two-range (2) HST on BX. (Lower LOW, Higher, HIGH)
More tractor engine horsepower to operate PTO powered implements.

For eight bumpy acres consider a Kubota LX2610.

VIDEOS: Kubota BX Series VS. B Series - YouTube

Kubota B265 VS Kubota LX261 - Are they the same? - YouTube
 
/ Newbie trying to nail down type & brands
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Let me be a little more specific-we will be getting a CHEAP USED one. From an estate sale, or local seller, or craigslist.
Hoping to narrow it down to something that has enough life left to get us through a season or 2 while we are on the learning curve for learning how to maintain etc.
We can worry about upgrading later-kinda like how you get a teenager a beater car to practice on.
Thank you for boldly highlighting the fact that I have never done this before, in nice blue letters. Hoping that will draw some attention & get me some mercy!
I'm seeing a LOT of older model tractors coming out of the woodwork that appear in nice condition going kinda cheap, they just want them out of the way. So what is a good reliable/easy to maintain/easy to run & learn on? I've seen a few older Honda, Wheel Horse, Ford, Simplicity-and it seems like people LOVE those & are not so happy with the newer models.
 
/ Newbie trying to nail down type & brands #5  
Congratulations on your new property! The ideal setup for rural properties is to have a dedicated mower and also a 4wd tractor with a front end loader to move and lift materials and run implements of various kinds. A tractor is simply a mobile platform to power implements which do the work. Now, understanding you’re on a budget you can get one machine that’ll do it all but it won’t be as good as two dedicated machines.

Sounds like you’re looking at older riding mowers? The best advice you’ll get here is to get a used machine with 4wd, a front end loader, and a belly mower, like an older Kubota BX sub compact tractor. Especially if you’re in your 50’s you don’t want to be carrying everything around your two acre property by hand. Old 2wd riding mowers really don’t have much capability. They can tow a cart and mow grass but they get stuck easily, don’t weigh very much thus have limited traction, and tend to not be very reliable.

The great thing about tractors is they hold their value way better than most other machines, so even if you spend money on one you can easily get your money back whenever you want by selling it.

Good luck on your search!
 
/ Newbie trying to nail down type & brands #6  
Here’s an example of an older Kubota BX currently for sale at Virginia Tractor in Warrenton, VA. Not sure what they’re asking for it but you could call and find out.
IMG_9130.JPG
 
/ Newbie trying to nail down type & brands #7  
Even with a used lawn and garden tractor there is still a broad list of options. A garden tractor is different from a lawn tractor; having a heavier transaxle (integrated transmission/rear axle), being capable of ground engaging (pulling a properly sized plow, tiller, etc), and being in general more stout that a lawn tractor. You'll sometimes see 'yard' tractors; a yard tractor is typically a lawn tractor outfitted with a larger mowing deck and some comfort features, but it's just an advertising term.

I can't add more at this time, but that may clear up some confusion in the market; I'll be back to this thread when I can.
 
/ Newbie trying to nail down type & brands #8  
What is a good, reliable/easy to maintain/easy to run & learn on? I've seen a few older Honda, Wheel Horse, Ford, Simplicity-and it seems like people LOVE those & are not so happy with the newer models.

The category you are seeking information for is the Lawn & Garden Equipment category. T-B-N has one forum dedicated to this broad category:


Lawn & Garden "tractors", perhaps better titled as "riding lawnmowers" almost always share the following attributes:
  • less than 600 pounds machine weight
  • Gasoline engines rather than diesel engines
  • Two wheel drive (2-WD drive)
  • World standard Three Point Hitch absent
  • Front End Loader (FEL) absent
  • Turf/Lawn Tires
  • Manual steering
The combination of 2-WD, low weight and turf tires can make operation on hills difficult due to lack of traction. Lawn & Garden tractors may be tippy on slopes.

I would like the ability to haul rocks/dirt/wood etc from one side of the yard to the other.

You may tow at 2 - 5 bushel capacity, dump capable cart, connected to the mower rear drawbar with a pin, across flat ground.

VENDERS: garden tractor cart
 
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/ Newbie trying to nail down type & brands #9  
I've seen older 1) Honda, 2) Wheel Horse, 3) Ford and 4) Simplicity It seems like people LOVE those & are not so happy with the newer models.

Mostly our machine will be used for cutting grass, but I would also like the ability to haul rocks/dirt/wood etc from one side of the yard to the other.


T-B-N ARCHIVE SEARCHES:

1) Honda
Honda site:tractorbynet.com site:www.tractorbynet.com

2) Wheel Horse
Wheel Horse site:tractorbynet.com site:www.tractorbynet.com

3) Ford

4) Simplicity
Simplicty tractor site:tractorbynet.com


On this site there is limited input/output in the Lawn & Garden category. Not zero, but limited.
 
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/ Newbie trying to nail down type & brands #10  
Keep in mind that ANY BEATER lawn tractor is just that, a beater than will require CONCENTRATED upkeep and repairs almost continuously. Are you and the hubby up to that task or not. If not, expect to pay a shop around 100 bucks an hour to repair that BEATER and that don't include parts either.

If you don't have the funds to buy a late model one or a new one, I'd wait and buy a cheap push mower for now and get some exercise and save up the money to get something NOT A BEATER.

Beater cars work sometimes but a BEATER car will also cost you in the longer run as well.
 
/ Newbie trying to nail down type & brands #11  
You're best served by getting something at least the size of a Kubota BX with a loader. Doesn't need to be a Kubota, but the specs of it would be a good guide. I went cheap and well-used on the first tractor and couldn't wait to get something with more capabilities.

Get something large enough. One thing I noticed with tractors is that they get smaller as you use them.
 
/ Newbie trying to nail down type & brands #12  
Let me be a little more specific-we will be getting a CHEAP USED one. From an estate sale, or local seller, or craigslist.
Hoping to narrow it down to something that has enough life left to get us through a season or 2 while we are on the learning curve for learning how to maintain etc.
We can worry about upgrading later-kinda like how you get a teenager a beater car to practice on.
Thank you for boldly highlighting the fact that I have never done this before, in nice blue letters. Hoping that will draw some attention & get me some mercy!
I'm seeing a LOT of older model tractors coming out of the woodwork that appear in nice condition going kinda cheap, they just want them out of the way. So what is a good reliable/easy to maintain/easy to run & learn on? I've seen a few older Honda, Wheel Horse, Ford, Simplicity-and it seems like people LOVE those & are not so happy with the newer models.
If you could be more specific as to what "cheap" means, that would be helpful.
 
/ Newbie trying to nail down type & brands #13  
It appears up are thinking about lawn tractors, which can be had at a fairly reasonable price.
You probably should be thinking along the lines of a subcompact tractor, with a front end loader. You don’t want to be lifting heavy objects or hauling dirt around in a wheelbarrow at 50 years old if you can avoid it.
unfortunately, they are not cheap, but are well worth the cost for your purposes.

alternatively, you could get by with the same size tractor, and a rotary cutter and small utility trailer. That won’t help with lifting heavy objects, but will cost less in the beginning.
If you decide on the second choice, you will eventually decide that the first, is what you wish you had purchased
 
/ Newbie trying to nail down type & brands
  • Thread Starter
#14  
I keep getting confused when trying to split hairs. I do not need a full blown farm tractor, we would not put that to use. However I do want something more durable than a basic riding mower. This is why I am trying to narrow down brands I should look into. I'd like something similar to the smaller wheel horse types. Is there something heavier duty than just a riding mower but isn't a full blown farm tractor that has 4wd capabilities & can tow wood/rocks etc? I will not be farming. I will be moving chopped wood, mowing the lawn & doing some brick work & small gardening.
I'd love to have a kubota, I look, but they command much higher price. I don't want to get into dealerships and used at this time. I am sick to death of salesmen & I do not have the $$$$$ to invest in a newer model.
I DO have the ability to get a decent model cheap from an estate sale, locally, or craigslist. I'm not making my husband who works hard all day cut all of that with a lawn mower while we save, because I can pick up a used cheap riding mower before I would do that. The point is to get something that is heavier duty than a basic riding mower, & hopefully 4wd.
Unfortunately, now, there are more dead people, and people going to homes, & their kids can't get rid of the stuff fast enough. There is not as much demand for the left over used tractors or riding mowers right now because the millennials just get their lawns serviced by someone else, most don't even know HOW to use even a lawnmower in my area it seems, or they want something new.
I don't want something new. I want something reliable that isn't made in china & didn't come from a big box store.
The plan is to nail down what brands & models I should be looking into. I have read a LOT about people being unhappy with the newer models of riding mowers. We can do basic maintenance. This is only 2 acres at best. We are postage stamp size compared to the 20 & 100 acre lots around us. If we ever needed heavier duty work, we would hire one of the locals.
 
/ Newbie trying to nail down type & brands #15  
Is there something heavier duty than just a riding mower that isn't a full blown farm tractor that has 4wd capabilities & can tow wood/rocks etc?


Yes. This category of tractor is a subcompact tractor or the lighter compact tractors pretty clearly described in Post #2 and Post #3, above.

John Deere and Kubota dominate these categories with around 50% of the units sold, new, today. There are perhaps ten less expensive subcompact and compact tractor brands that divide the 50% market share not held by Deere and Kubota combined. All are imported, largely from South Korea.

There are large numbers of used subcompact and compact tractors for sale, otherwise there would be few down payments available for new, trade-up tractors.

Subcompacts weigh ~1,400 pounds, compact tractors commence at ~ 1,700 pounds. All have diesel engines, and 90% of the time, Loaders, which require a hydraulic system to operate.

(To your respondents here, farm tractors begin at a weight of 7,000 pounds.)

Unfortunately for you and other prospective consumers, you usually have to pay around four times as much to buy a 1,400 to 2,000 pound subcompact or compact Three Point Hitch tractor, relative to a <600 pound Lawn & Garden tractor, because of the tripling of material involved and much more expensive to produce diesel engine.

Tractor capability is more closely correlated to tractor weight than any other single (1) specification.
 
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/ Newbie trying to nail down type & brands #16  
If you follow this T-B-N =TRACTORS FOR SALE= forum, you may eventually get a lead on a good, value priced, subcompact tractor near your home:




If you post your location, at least your state, but preferably city and state, a T-B-N correspondent may clue you in to a good private-sale tractor near you.

Obscured By Clouds
This is not specific enough.​

Here are my reasons for wanting OP location.

ALTIITUDE - Tractors lose 3% of engine power output for every 1,000' altitude increase, over 1,500' Sometimes twenty posts will be made advising on tractor horsepower, then we find OP is a 6,500 feet altitude and is considering a low power, naturally aspirated tractor.

WEATHER - ESPECIALLY SNOW - Blowing snow and mowing are the two tasks that require considerable engine power. If we know an OP is in Buffalo, NY rather than Key West, FL snow needs are apparent.

WEATHER - Large swathes of the country have a continental climate, four seasons, with great temperature variations between winters and summers.
Areas near the coast have varying maritime climates.

PRICING - Tractor and implement pricing and dealer service pricing varies a great deal. Lowest prices are usually in the south. Prices along the west coast and in the northeast are usually highest.

Some states exempt agriculture and forestry equipment from state sales taxes. Florida is one example of liberal ag sales tax exemptions.

IMPLEMENTS - Availability of implements brands are regional, not national. ie: CountyLine, Rural King, etc.

SOIL AND GROWING SEASON - Whether game food plots or market crops, soil and length of growing season(s) in important. Soil type influences tire selection.

USED TRACTORS - When the OP posts a location, OP is often referred to good used tractors nearby or provided local tractor listings from Craig's List, eBay, TractorHouse, Machinery Peter or other sites.

Everyone on T-B-N has a screen name, as anonymous as they like. Any other profile information is contributed voluntarily, such as age and tractor brand/model. Relative to the massive data heists reported so often, with names, address, Social Security and credit card numbers stolen, this site is nearly anonymous.


USED TRACTORS ON EBAY:

 
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/ Newbie trying to nail down type & brands #17  
For the OP, I know it seems like it costs a lot for a small used Kubota BX, but nothing retains its value better, so in a sense you’re just parking your money in the tractor for a while until you decide to sell. A small tractor with a front end loader is essential for the type of work you want to do.
 
/ Newbie trying to nail down type & brands #18  
Is there something heavier duty than just a riding mower but isn't a full blown farm tractor that has 4wd capabilities & can tow wood/rocks etc?
There is. The Kubota BX that has been mentioned several times is in that category. We really need to know what your budget is. Otherwise, you'll just keep getting recommendations for good machines that you can't afford.
 
/ Newbie trying to nail down type & brands #19  
There are at least 9 manufacturers that make subcompact tractors.
Kubota, John Deere (both more expensive), Massey Ferguson, New holland, LS, Kioti, TYM, Branson, and Bobcat.

They can accept mowers, tillers, post hole diggers, grading blades, loaders, even small backhoes. They are far more useful than even a good "garden tractor"

A few examples:



You may find a decent garden tractor, but the better quality and in better shape are sometimes hard to find.

Good luck with your search, don't hesitate to come back with any questions.
 
/ Newbie trying to nail down type & brands #20  
^useful post!

A sub-compact tractor is not usually a "farm" tractor, though some farms certainly use them. They are a useful blend of lawn mower with room for growth. Highly recommended you focus on that class of machine.

Be extraordinarily careful when buying used. There are some deals to be had, but unless one or both of you is adept at repair and maintenance, you could be in for more repair costs than initial outlay.
 
 
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