New (used) IH 7500 Dump Truck purchase, modification & fix up

   / New (used) IH 7500 Dump Truck purchase, modification & fix up #141  
It could be done for sure, a lot of work not to mention the initial cost of two bodies. I don't think it's a project I'd want to do.
 
   / New (used) IH 7500 Dump Truck purchase, modification & fix up #142  
Hey, scars are sexy, and you're doing great work with that truck.
 
   / New (used) IH 7500 Dump Truck purchase, modification & fix up
  • Thread Starter
#143  
Not scars...character :).


What about just going with a turn down? If you can get away from a vertical stack it my prevent problems with a cab shield depending on the type and style of body you find.
You're lucky, there's no DPF or SCR to worry about. The newer trucks I was working on had $15-20K of exhaust crap behind the cab and enough structure to support a car bridge holding it up. Not only that, since it was an engineered system you couldn't move a thing from factory...nothing.

You get the frame flanges flattened down some? They don't look as angled up as they were.


Gonna have to watch your drive line angles too

It won’t be too expensive to fab & weld a new pipe. I’m not a big fan of weed burners for my application. Fire in off road scenarios scares the crap outta me and this truck will be off road.
The frame flanges are same as they were. I don’t know how wise it is to beat them down??? I was afraid they would crack at the radius curve where they turn down? So I never tried. I was thinking the dump body would eventually bend them back a bit

So far, I have seen about 1/2 dozen 10’ bodies. If I wanted an aluminum body, I’d have it by now. They are all over the place for 4-6K. I guess they are removed from state trucks-especially the ones with DPF/DEF with early failure engines that they scrap???
Steel 10’ in good shape is not easy, but easier than 12’.
Still haven’t seen any 11’s, except for some low side contractors light duty. Did see a 10’-6”, but too far away.

I still think a 12’ is possible.….if the lift cylinder is in a dog house inside the dump box, is 10” still required from the back of the cab? Would a frame mounted hoist be able to get any closer? I still prefer telescoping.
 
   / New (used) IH 7500 Dump Truck purchase, modification & fix up
  • Thread Starter
#144  
Here’s the plan on the exhaust:

1677760621438.jpeg



International wants $900 for the piece to the clamp.
That price doesn’t even include the 5” basic stack!!
 
   / New (used) IH 7500 Dump Truck purchase, modification & fix up #145  
I don’t know how wise it is to beat them down??
Nada, I wouldn't, must have been an optical illusion.

I was thinking the dump body would eventually bend them back a bit
Don't think, you're more apt to wear into the body from the sharp edge of the bent up frame flange

If I wanted an aluminum body, I’d have it by now.
Couldn't pay me enough to get an aluminum anything that moves on the road. Once they break they are an extreme pia to fix properly.

….if the lift cylinder is in a dog house inside the dump box, is 10” still required from the back of the cab?
Nope, just leave whatever clearance you feel you need for the 'fudge factor' should something move, a couple of inches

I still prefer telescoping.
Yup.
The scissor type lift puts an unreal amount of strain on anything until it's gets up a bit. Almost like pushing the body apart.
You want to see something strain, look at an older salt spreader body like the one you had with the side dump cylinders almost horizontal when it's trying to reload the spreader chain. The cylinders on some of the brands I had worked on were a 10" diameter cylinder, two of them pushing out on the side dump section of the body almost parrallel to the bottom of the body. They'd work ok brand new, couple or year old rusty body they'd push it apart especially if the operator tried to reload the spreader chain before the salt had been used up. The newer ones are more vertical so it's not as bad.

International wants $900 for the piece to the clamp.
Sheesh, they're really proud of that piece aren't they. For that it should come with free install FFS.
 
   / New (used) IH 7500 Dump Truck purchase, modification & fix up
  • Thread Starter
#146  
Beautiful 10’ Aluminum state truck bodies for 6K.

1677776000812.jpeg



1677776025137.jpeg


Would sell for 20K today
 
   / New (used) IH 7500 Dump Truck purchase, modification & fix up
  • Thread Starter
#148  
They are nice looking, they're used?. Only good for cotton balls and topsoil IMHO :)
Yeah I keep thinking the floor & sides could be lined with steel sheet, but then I get my reality check….

Maybe I have to start re-thinking this :unsure:

The last 12” of frame are pretty bad. Thats the “fulcrum” for the dump bed, right? You want a lot of strength there, right? Is there a way to reinforce the last few feet of frame? I don’t know.

I am not an expert with truck restoration and body installation, but if I can be flexible to a 10,11, or 12’ bed it’s better than spending the money to move axle forward, and loose usable length.

I just don’t know how to reinforce it….
 
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   / New (used) IH 7500 Dump Truck purchase, modification & fix up #149  
Only way I can see to reinforce it would be to remove the two rear crossmembers and narrow it up by 1/2" or so. Fab two bent channels 3" x 10" (or whatever leg length would fit inside the frame ) from 1/4" plate, that would run from the tailplate forward to at least midway between the spring hangers or further if you want.
I don't think it would be all that hard to do. Split the crossmembers in two with a recip saw (stagger the cuts), remove the rear spring perch and stop bolts, remove the crossmembers and shorten them up by 1/2" and weld them back together. Slip the bent piece of channel inside the frame, drill the holes and reinstall the crossmember.
 
   / New (used) IH 7500 Dump Truck purchase, modification & fix up
  • Thread Starter
#150  
Only way I can see to reinforce it would be to remove the two rear crossmembers and narrow it up by 1/2" or so. Fab two bent channels 3" x 10" (or whatever leg length would fit inside the frame ) from 1/4" plate, that would run from the tailplate forward to at least midway between the spring hangers or further if you want.
I don't think it would be all that hard to do. Split the crossmembers in two with a recip saw (stagger the cuts), remove the rear spring perch and stop bolts, remove the crossmembers and shorten them up by 1/2" and weld them back together. Slip the bent piece of channel inside the frame, drill the holes and reinstall the crossmember.
Probably a bit cheaper than moving axle, I would think. Gives me back the possibility of 12’ dump.…..
I hate decisions like this.

It is easier (somewhat) to find a 10 than a 12 though.
None are really easy to find. Price of new bodies (steel) is so unbelievably high that used bodies are now expensive and rare.
 

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