mrmikey
Veteran Member
It could be done for sure, a lot of work not to mention the initial cost of two bodies. I don't think it's a project I'd want to do.
Not scars...character.
What about just going with a turn down? If you can get away from a vertical stack it my prevent problems with a cab shield depending on the type and style of body you find.
You're lucky, there's no DPF or SCR to worry about. The newer trucks I was working on had $15-20K of exhaust crap behind the cab and enough structure to support a car bridge holding it up. Not only that, since it was an engineered system you couldn't move a thing from factory...nothing.
You get the frame flanges flattened down some? They don't look as angled up as they were.
Gonna have to watch your drive line angles too
Nada, I wouldn't, must have been an optical illusion.I don’t know how wise it is to beat them down??
Don't think, you're more apt to wear into the body from the sharp edge of the bent up frame flangeI was thinking the dump body would eventually bend them back a bit
Couldn't pay me enough to get an aluminum anything that moves on the road. Once they break they are an extreme pia to fix properly.If I wanted an aluminum body, I’d have it by now.
Nope, just leave whatever clearance you feel you need for the 'fudge factor' should something move, a couple of inches….if the lift cylinder is in a dog house inside the dump box, is 10” still required from the back of the cab?
Yup.I still prefer telescoping.
Sheesh, they're really proud of that piece aren't they. For that it should come with free install FFS.International wants $900 for the piece to the clamp.
Yeah I keep thinking the floor & sides could be lined with steel sheet, but then I get my reality check….They are nice looking, they're used?. Only good for cotton balls and topsoil IMHO![]()
Probably a bit cheaper than moving axle, I would think. Gives me back the possibility of 12’ dump.…..Only way I can see to reinforce it would be to remove the two rear crossmembers and narrow it up by 1/2" or so. Fab two bent channels 3" x 10" (or whatever leg length would fit inside the frame ) from 1/4" plate, that would run from the tailplate forward to at least midway between the spring hangers or further if you want.
I don't think it would be all that hard to do. Split the crossmembers in two with a recip saw (stagger the cuts), remove the rear spring perch and stop bolts, remove the crossmembers and shorten them up by 1/2" and weld them back together. Slip the bent piece of channel inside the frame, drill the holes and reinstall the crossmember.