New to tractors and trailering them

[ovrszd]

Yep. Controlling the trailer is the most important factor. With a half ton truck, a heavy trailer tends to push the truck around. With a heavier truck, the truck controls the trailer.

Something new trailer owners rarely understand. When you apply the brakes while towing an Electric braked trailer the controller sends a voltage signal to the electromagnets at each trailer braked wheel assembly. Depending on how the controller is setup, the brake activates and reaches it setting capacity very quickly.

If the vehicle/trailer isn't stopping quick enough the operator pushes the brake pedal harder. Nothing changes at the trailer, it's already at capacity. To shorten the stopping distance the tow vehicle has to do it all. At this moment the weight of the tow vehicle and it's braking capacity are very, very critical.

 

[Jstpssng]

Something new trailer owners rarely understand. When you apply the brakes while towing an Electric braked trailer the controller sends a voltage signal to the electromagnets at each trailer braked wheel assembly. Depending on how the controller is setup, the brake activates and reaches it setting capacity very quickly.

If the vehicle/trailer isn't stopping quick enough the operator pushes the brake pedal harder. Nothing changes at the trailer, it's already at capacity. To shorten the stopping distance the tow vehicle has to do it all. At this moment the weight of the tow vehicle and it's braking capacity are very, very critical.

And be prepared to have your life ruined if you have an accident and hurt someone if you're overweight...

Honestly, do you want to take that risk? I wouldn't (and don't).

Just because nothing bad happens this time doesn't mean it's a good idea.

As I pointed out in a previous post, the engine seems to be the limiting factor here. Stopping isn't the consideration. Furthermore, my post which others seem to be basing towing capacity is from an internet search. The OP should consult his owner's manual and/or door stickers to determine actual towing capacity.

Having said that, comments above and others are spot on based on the information we have available.

 

[Rancher Ed]

Something new trailer owners rarely understand. When you apply the brakes while towing an Electric braked trailer the controller sends a voltage signal to the electromagnets at each trailer braked wheel assembly. Depending on how the controller is setup, the brake activates and reaches it setting capacity very quickly.

If the vehicle/trailer isn't stopping quick enough the operator pushes the brake pedal harder. Nothing changes at the trailer, it's already at capacity. To shorten the stopping distance the tow vehicle has to do it all. At this moment the weight of the tow vehicle and it's braking capacity are very, very critical.

With some older brake controllers that was the case but not with any newer truck with a built-in brake controller or a decent aftermarket controller (such as a Tekonsha Prodigy P2 or P3).

The good brake controllers send a lower voltage, say 3 or 4 volts, when you gently apply the brakes, but if you push the brake peddle harder they will send a higher voltage, up to ~13 volts or whatever maximum* you have set.

*You should always adjust the maximum voltage based on the load to be right at or just below the point of skidding the trailer tires. For an unloaded flatbed, you might only need 5 volts to lockup all four tires, but put a tractor on the trailer and you need 10 volts to achieve the same thing.

 

[ovrszd]

With some older brake controllers that was the case but not with any newer truck with a built-in brake controller or a decent aftermarket controller (such as a Tekonsha Prodigy P2 or P3).

The good brake controllers send a lower voltage, say 3 or 4 volts, when you gently apply the brakes, but if you push the brake peddle harder they will send a higher voltage, up to ~13 volts or whatever maximum* you have set.

*You should always adjust the maximum voltage based on the load to be right at or just below the point of skidding the trailer tires. For an unloaded flatbed, you might only need 5 volts to lockup all four tires, but put a tractor on the trailer and you need 10 volts to achieve the same thing.

I totally agree. But in the end, when the trailer brakes are at maximum capability, and the stopping distance needs shortened, which set of brakes and their ability becomes most important?

 

[Rancher Ed]

And be prepared to have your life ruined if you have an accident and hurt someone if you're overweight...

Honestly, do you want to take that risk? I wouldn't (and don't).

Just because nothing bad happens this time doesn't mean it's a good idea.

Being overweight and exceeding a "tow rating"* not listed on the trucks GVWR door sticker are very different. While I believe some newer trucks have started listing a towing capacity on the door sticker, a quick search indicates his truck likely does not have a tow rating listed.

As such a dual axle 7k GVWR trailer properly loaded would not overload his rear axle and there would be no overweight issues. Yes he might be slower going up hills than a similar half-ton truck with a larger engine, but as long as he has a good brake controller stopping will not be an issue.

*Unless a "tow rating" is listed on the door sticker it is not something for which you can be ticketed. Hot-shot drivers have been using 3/4 trucks to pull 20k and 24k dual tandem gooseneck trailers for over 20 years with CDLs, going through scales, etc, and as long as you do not exceed any of the numbers on your door sticker you are legal.
I am unsure what would happen if someone tried to bring a civil lawsuit if you exceed a tow rating listed in some kind of supplemental document published by the vehicles OEM but were legal on all axles and the numbers in the trucks door sticker.

 

[KennyG]

Dodge tow ratings suck. I had a Dodge Dakota V-6 and the tow rating was 3700 lbs. I regularly towed much heavier because the V-8 rating was over 6000 lbs. The frame and brakes were identical in either configuration and the V-6 handled it fine.

 

[Bill Guenthner]

dual axle trailer for sure, the truck might be ok for short hauls on flat ground , Stopping is what usually gets people in trouble.

Trouble being defined as "dead."

 

[Bill Guenthner]

Being overweight and exceeding a "tow rating"* not listed on the trucks GVWR door sticker are very different. While I believe some newer trucks have started listing a towing capacity on the door sticker, a quick search indicates his truck likely does not have a tow rating listed.

As such a dual axle 7k GVWR trailer properly loaded would not overload his rear axle and there would be no overweight issues. Yes he might be slower going up hills than a similar half-ton truck with a larger engine, but as long as he has a good brake controller stopping will not be an issue.

*Unless a "tow rating" is listed on the door sticker it is not something for which you can be ticketed. Hot-shot drivers have been using 3/4 trucks to pull 20k and 24k dual tandem gooseneck trailers for over 20 years with CDLs, going through scales, etc, and as long as you do not exceed any of the numbers on your door sticker you are legal.
I am unsure what would happen if someone tried to bring a civil lawsuit if you exceed a tow rating listed in some kind of supplemental document published by the vehicles OEM but were legal on all axles and the numbers in the trucks door sticker.

This is very bad and dangerous advice. A 7k pound trailer (no matter how loaded) would very severely overload this particular pickup.

 

[Rancher Ed]

This is very bad and dangerous advice. A 7k pound trailer (no matter how loaded) would very severely overload this particular pickup.

This simply not true.

A quick search shows a 2012 Ram 1500 pickup will have a payload somewhere between 1,100 and 1,900 pounds depending on the configuration. A fully loaded 7k trailer (2x 3,500 pound axles) will have approximately 700 pounds of tongue weight (8-10% target for bumper pull trailers, 15-20% for gooseneck), leaving at least 400 pounds for the driver and stuff.

Depending on the hitch ratings a weight distributing hitch might be needed and a working brake controller is required for safely towing this weight.

 

[Rancher Ed]

OP,

If we are generous and say adding the backhoe and cab doubles the weight of the tractor in questions you have a 4,000 pound load. A 7k trailer is likely to be in the 2,000 to 2,400 pound weight unloaded, and if you add a couple hundred pounds for chains, etc. you have a total towed weight of <6,500 pounds.

With a backhoe length will be a factor and I would recommend an 18' trailer. Also keep in mind you might get better load balancing by backing the tractor onto the trailer instead of pulling it on. I would recommend checking the recent Is Anyone Making a High Quality 7k Trailer? thread for general ideas and brands.

If your truck has a built-in brake controller, great! If not I recommend the Tekonsha Prodigy P2 which you should be able to get specific to your truck so you can just plug it without having to cut or splice any wires.

You also will need to check the hitch on the back of your truck. It is likely only rated for 500 pounds of tongue weight when "weight carrying" but 1,000 or 1,200 pounds "weight distributing". If so you will need a weight distributing hitch. There are several threads on here about the pros and cons of different brands. My personal opinion is almost any of them will work for an equipment trailer while the nicer ones have advantages when towing tall RV or cargo trailers that are more prone to sway, wind movement, etc.