New to Quick Hitches - What do I need?

JRobyn · Apr 4, 2016

Kenny, you might just be right!

Still would have been good of the chinese at "Country Way" to have made the minimum a touch less than 15" to keep the top hook from being the main support.

JRobyn · Apr 4, 2016

SPYDERLK said:
Carbide Grit blades are available for hack saws and reciprocating saws. Also cutoff disks if you have something to drive them. A drillpress on "high" would work.

Thanks! For some reason I had not considered a cutoff wheel. I don't have a chop saw, but an angle grinder should do if I'm careful to not get too deep and bind it.

Redneck in training · Apr 5, 2016

I didn't read all the posts so somebody might already mention it. What you need is hydraulic top link. It makes the quick hitch quick.

CStone · Apr 9, 2016

The product is fine but do not buy from Pats website because the return policy is a joke, no spacer bar, plus you will pay about $60 more than if you bought from Rural King, even Amazon is a lot less.

JRobyn · Apr 9, 2016

Got all the little mods finished up on the box blade today and tried it all out. Works great! First thing I learned: it's going to be necessary to unhook the box blade on some 4x4s or a pallet. Else it's too low to the ground to get under with the QH hooks. This time, I had to lift up the front of the whole tractor with the FEL bucket and skid back under it!

I have about a 1/4" to 1/2" gap between the bottom of the top pin and the top hook when the lift pins are securely bottomed in the lift hooks. That's about right, right?

KB9UDE · Apr 9, 2016

Drilling 3/4 holes in steel is done easiest with a good quality hole saw in my experience.

Redneck in training · Apr 9, 2016

JRobyn said:
Got all the little mods finished up on the box blade today and tried it all out. Works great! First thing I learned: it's going to be necessary to unhook the box blade on some 4x4s or a pallet. Else it's too low to the ground to get under with the QH hooks. This time, I had to lift up the front of the whole tractor with the FEL bucket and skid back under it!

I have about a 1/4" to 1/2" gap between the bottom of the top pin and the top hook when the lift pins are securely bottomed in the lift hooks. That's about right, right?

You need to adjust the side turnbuckles to lower the 3 point. You should be able to lover the arms to the ground.

JRobyn · Apr 10, 2016

Kubota L4330 has only a right side lift arm adjustment. Left arm cannot be lowered any more than about 4-6" off the ground, and this has the tip of the QH hook at maybe 10-12" up.

downsizingnow48 · Apr 10, 2016

Do you have two or three holes in the lower arms? What holes are the side links in? This changes lift geometry.

JRobyn · Apr 11, 2016

For about the third time now, just in this thread, you guys have educated and/or corrected me. It is true, as said in another thread recently, that you learn something new on TBN every day. And ONE of things I am learning is that my chemo is affecting my brain a lot more than I previously admitted.

Seems I DO have additional adjustments in BOTH my lift arms and links! Don't know how I never really noticed that before! It is adjusted the way it came from the dealer.

So I COULD leave it as-is and just unhook my box blade on some pallets. I have no problem doing this. OR, I could reset to either lower side link holes, OR closer-in lift arm holes, OR both.

If I change to different holes, I wonder which would work best and why?

p.s. I agree that a good hole saw is the way to go when making new LARGE holes in thick steel. Much less metal to actually "cut" and much less tendency to grab.

p.p.s CompactTractorFan, I sincerely apologize for shamelessly taking over your thread. I will now cease and desist.