Oil & Fuel New to me YM2500

[Brokeodie]

Update:
I sent off the pump and injectors to "ThePumpGuySC" his turn around time is incredible. He tested the injectors and they were no bueno so they needed to be purchased. Mike was able to get pump sorted and working and have it back two me in less than two weeks (Most of it shipping time). I did order the new shims, insulators, and injectors and they arrived the same day and have been put in. The timing gasket was in rough shape so I used two shims that were about the same thickness (no I did not measure it) and put it all together. I put the injectors in and hooked up all the fuel lines, return lines and tightened it all up. I was able to bleed the fuel system and make sure there was no air coming thru. I turned over the tractor and after a few seconds it STARTED!!! I let it run but noticed that the oil light was on so it was time to throw more parts at it. I went to O'Reilly and they had one that matched exactly that was off of a 1978 Subaru Standard (Thank you to the this forum). I did install the sensor and it worked no more light (Phew). The tractor is running and I am able to lower the speed but it seems like it shuts itself off at low idle or if I press the accelerator and release. could this be a timing issue or some other adjustment that needs to be done?

thank you everyone in advance

 

[winston1]

I'm thinking your 2500 is pretty much identical to the John Deere 850. If so, you might need to make an adjustment at #32 locknuts and also check and make sure your idle spring and ball are in place (#4 & 5). Then might need to adust locknuts #23 with a little more tension.

the action may be reversed on your 2500 but setup should be very similar. Or at least I think so.

 

[Brokeodie]

Ok, thank you for that Winston1 i will take a look and see what I can find out. So another thing I noticed is that the 3point went up but it's not wanting to go back down. I made sure that the lock was turned fully counter clock wise. Does it matter the rpms or should it go down if the tractor is off? Also should the pin fully extend and touch the lever? (See attached photo).

Sorry for the basic questions as this is my first tractor.

 

[bmaverick]

I'm thinking your 2500 is pretty much identical to the John Deere 850. If so, you might need to make an adjustment at #32 locknuts and also check and make sure your idle spring and ball are in place (#4 & 5). Then might need to adust locknuts #23 with a little more tension.

the action may be reversed on your 2500 but setup should be very similar. Or at least I think so.

Winston, you are so correct. The YM2500 and YM2610 both have the same throttle control to the 3T80 engine. There is an idle detent that tends to slip at time. When the engine is set to 1400rpms or less and it slips back to the idle detent, then it needs a bit of readjustment.

The odd thing is, the John Deere machines get a butterfly pivot lever between the two linkages. This in turn makes the lever for RPM control pushed in the other direction. John Deere wanted all their machines to behave all the same, both domestic and imported. And now you know the rest of the story, Good day.

 

[bmaverick]

Ok, thank you for that Winston1 i will take a look and see what I can find out. So another thing I noticed is that the 3point went up but it's not wanting to go back down. I made sure that the lock was turned fully counter clock wise. Does it matter the rpms or should it go down if the tractor is off? Also should the pin fully extend and touch the lever? (See attached photo).

Sorry for the basic questions as this is my first tractor.

Hmmm, where is that little shiny lock pin located? It might be on my machine too. I just never paid any attention.

I know about the under seat tiny lever like this spot. Mine has to sit in that position, else it will not go up or down, depending what way it's flipped.

And there their is the HARD LOCK stop to the 3PT found here

 

[Brokeodie]

Hi bmaverick so in the first picture you have it's under that metal shield you have. I guess mine did not come with it. Follow the spring. I will try moving the two levers as i was playing with them but could not find any documentation on them. So I was able to put it at 2200 rpms and drive around a bit. I will post an audio clip as how the motor sounds and you can tell me if it's normal.. Also i noticed the front loader stutters a bit during operation and the pump or something makes what sounds like a whining noise.

 

[winston1]

the little lever Maverick circled in his first picture is the drop speed lever. Depending on setting as to how fast the lift goes down. Might read this also. Yanmar Tractor Parts:

 

[Brokeodie]

So I decided tonight to drain the hydraulic fluid and the milk shake did make me sad.. So apparently there is water in the system that i will now have to get out. I did read on some post to put diesel, ATF F, and alcohol into the case and run the tractor but not run the pto etc and I've also read to just use diesel and run all pto, lifts etc. Anyone have the best way of removing the water and starting over?

 

[bmaverick]

So I decided tonight to drain the hydraulic fluid and the milk shake did make me sad.. So apparently there is water in the system that i will now have to get out. I did read on some post to put diesel, ATF F, and alcohol into the case and run the tractor but not run the pto etc and I've also read to just use diesel and run all pto, lifts etc. Anyone have the best way of removing the water and starting over?

NO, please no alcohol in the system. ATF+4 is the go to on these Yanmar/John Deere compacts. And the newer 'clean' diesel works nicely now as it's low sulfur.

J20C is the mainstay Hy-Gard fluid to use. IF you live in higher elevations or harsh winters J20D is the formula to use.

Bummer about the milky white fluid. It would take 2 or 3 rinses to purge. Possibly more. Thus the 'clean' diesel of today is the most cost effect method.

Your YM2500 should be identical to flush and refill. See my posting here

Hydraulic Fluid Change

www.tractorforum.com

 

[ponytug]

Congratulations on getting the fuel side of your tractor sorted out!

As disappointing as it is to find a milkshake, be thankful that you did the change now. (Pat yourself on the back for doing it sooner rather than later!) If you found a lot of gunk on the filter, you may want to work at getting any sludge up of the bottom of the tank before refilling it. (Compressed air, rags, whatever it takes.)

Yes, it is a shampoo, rinse, repeat sort of thing, and do operate everything a couple of times to flush things out, but not under any load. Personally, I have never used diesel to flush a hydraulic system, and I would never add alcohol. I would just stay with a J20C fluid. Around here at Tractor supply, it is only about 1.6x diesel in cost anyway.

All the best,

Peter