New Saw Recommendation

[GeneSimm7]

I have several chain saws and the climbing saws are the most pleasant to use but would probably be too small for what you are wanting to do.
Of my other saws, one of them is a Stihl with compression relief and that feature makes it much easier to start! I strongly recommend that you look for one with a compression relief.

 

[vanskills]

All I know is the price of new saws is ridiculous, I wouldn’t buy one

 

[walnutman]

One that doesn't get mentioned is Makita/Dolmar. My Makita 6421, I've been real happy with for the bigger stuff. Mine is an older one with blue plastic. I saw one in a pawn shop just like mine but they wanted too much money for it.

https://makitatools.com/products/details/DCS6421RFG

I've got two Dolmars. They are German machines. I have the 7900 big unit with a 26" bar and an older, smaller 109.
The only time I had any starting issues is when I installed the air cleaner on upside down on the 7900 LOL... blocks airflow. It has the HD air cleaner setup.
Really strong.

In 1927, Emil Lerp, the founder of Dolmar, developed the world's first gasoline-powered chainsaw and mass-produced them.

Umfortunately years after Makita bought out Dolmar... they discontinued all gas engine production.
So much for green.

Here is an older post from a guy in PA..

"I have 2 Dolmar 5100`s a 7900 and the odd ball 7300. I love Domar saws. I hate the dealer network but I am a mechanic and I am also very resourceful when it comes to finding the part I need. I do not need to rely on a dealership for service. The Domar saws by themselves are terrific. The dealer network is the polar opposite.

As a professional arborist I have had the opportunity to own and operate most every pro saw made by Sthil. The only Sthil saw I own today is my old 066. I sold all my other Stihls when Dolmar stole my heart.

There are two things that made me fall out of love with Sthil.

#1 is the overly complex flip lever gas and oil caps. This seems like a minor nit-pick but this is a huge issue for me. Sthil If your reading, screw on gas and oil caps work because they are idiot proof.....K.I.S.S!!! You didn`t need to reinvent the wheel when you have the best reputation in the business!

#2 is price. Other saw makers are building saws that cost lest, run smoother, are better balanced, make more power at a given weight and are just as reliable.


Sthil has a great dealer network and if I needed to rely on dealer service Sthil would be my first pick. But when it comes to just the saw,the Dolmar 3100 is a better saw than the Sthil 026/260 and the Dolmar 7900 is better than the Sthil 046/460.

The Dolmar 7900/7300/6400 are all built on the same platform. They are the same size, shape and weight. The only change is the piston and cylinder that is bolted on. The 7900 shines because it puts out gobs of power for its weight. The 7300 and 6400 while still great saws shine less than the 7900 because they put out less power but weigh just as much.

I have a lot of respect for Sthil and they really are #1 . They have been #1 for a long, long time. But there are some other great saws out there. I want Sthil to produce the best chainsaw in the world, I am willing to come back but...... in the past few years Sthil has only added gimmicks like flip-lever oil caps and tool-less chain tensioning. These are home-owner features that I would expect on a Poulan Wild-Thing but never on a Sthil. Sthil you are better than this. Lead the market with the best product or eventually you will be in someone elses dust.

Cut 4 fun , thanks for the info on the Solo. I saw the pic in Bailey`s and saw the Domar resembleance. I want to try out that saw."

 

[kenhar]

So, my small engine mechanic tells me all new saws are garbage with these new EPA emissions. But I have a bunch of maples I just had felled. They are 14 inch at the tops and 26 and 31 inch at the bottoms. I only have an old Stihl 029 and thinking about getting something bigger. What do you all recommend.
I find looking at the saw websites very confusing. You see small saws that are more expensive than big saws?
Figure for what it cost to get them to block it all up, I may as well invest in a bigger saw.

What do you all recommend for this job?

Any right sized saw with a sharp chain will be fine as long as it's a Husky. I have 3. One is a 266 SE, bought new in 1984. Seems to be considerably heavier today than when new. Longevity of products made today is based mostly on the warranty. When the warranty is done, so is the product.

 

[Hermio]

So, my small engine mechanic tells me all new saws are garbage with these new EPA emissions. But I have a bunch of maples I just had felled. They are 14 inch at the tops and 26 and 31 inch at the bottoms. I only have an old Stihl 029 and thinking about getting something bigger. What do you all recommend.
I find looking at the saw websites very confusing. You see small saws that are more expensive than big saws?
Figure for what it cost to get them to block it all up, I may as well invest in a bigger saw.

What do you all recommend for this job?

I like my Stihl MS500i.

 

[xyz123]

Any right sized saw with a sharp chain will be fine as long as it's a Husky. I have 3. One is a 266 SE, bought new in 1984. Seems to be considerably heavier today than when new. Longevity of products made today is based mostly on the warranty. When the warranty is done, so is the product.

Those are not bad for weight. It's just because we are getting older.

I started selling of 084's 3120's 166's. Few more years the 066's 395 went.

Heck now the 65cc-70cc range feel heavy like you talking with 266.

Owned alot of those. Collectors keep buying them from me.

PHO before tanks filled and choice of bar chain.

 

[CoyPatton]

My opinion on newer saws (ones that felling into the EPA emissions pit) is that for that same size CC saw you need to run a shorter bar and chain to experience the same cutting power. This forces you to buy a larger saw to run the same size bar and chain. Which means more weigh to use and more expense to purchase. Then is the factor of fuel, ethanol is hard on any small engine. It also does not produce the same power as non ethanol fuel. This results in a double hit on power on any saw.
While the price jumps, I believe the pro model saws are build with better materials. So will last longer, also buy fuel in the premixed cans to avoid ethanol as I have known people that say the non-ethanol fuel they have bought at pumps have contained ethanol.
Personally for my limbing needs, I have gone to battery powered saws. So far they have worked ok. No starting issues, just have to be sure batteries are charged prior to wanting to use.

 

[neilpaku]

The other thing to remember is that saw engines can be refreshed with a cylinder and piston kit and that effectively returns them to as-new (so long as stuff isn't actually broken on them). My brother logs and routinely refreshes his saws with cylinders/pistons. When the bottom end lets go (usually the seals), then he gets a new powerhead because, at least for Stihls, he says that getting the bottom end right is not easy without the right tooling and because of the cost.

 

[Ronald G]

Chevy and Ford.
Back when I was cutting timber for a living, my choice was McCollough, (showing my age) I always had trouble with starting Stihls, could have been me. My Husqvarna 357xp with a 30 inch bar and 3/8 chain works flawlessly. This saw has been out of production for several years.
I empty the gas tank when I dont use it for a while. Always starts in three when not used for a while and tank was dry.
Always starts on one pull every time when warm. At 80 years old the husky is a bit heavy, but there is nothing out there that this saw won't handle, as mentioned before make sure you get a saw that comes with a 3/8th chain, anything less is a kiddy saw. These saws produce saw DUST, the 3/8 chain produces wood chips.
Don't buy at the big box stores, find a dealer who will cover you and supplies the bigger landscape and mowing companies, they know what works.
I have four big maples that have been blown over from our last hurricane here in Fl. As soon as the water dries up looking forward to get them cut up for fireplace wood.

 

[ForestRoads]

So, my small engine mechanic tells me all new saws are garbage with these new EPA emissions. But I have a bunch of maples I just had felled. They are 14 inch at the tops and 26 and 31 inch at the bottoms. I only have an old Stihl 029 and thinking about getting something bigger. What do you all recommend.
I find looking at the saw websites very confusing. You see small saws that are more expensive than big saws?
Figure for what it cost to get them to block it all up, I may as well invest in a bigger saw.

What do you all recommend for this job?

I know most people only talk about Stihl and Husky, but the guy who owns our local saw shop convinced me a couple of years ago to get an Echo Timberwolf CS-590, and it's my new favorite, over the Stihls I own. He said when guys go out cutting firewood together, it's always the Echo owner who keeps cutting while the others are fussing around, trying to get their saws running, or fixing an issue. That appealed to me. It starts faithfully in 3 or 4 pulls, max - one, if it's warm. I have a 24" bar on mine, and it hogs through trees like crazy. I recently felled a couple of newly-dead firs that were 36 inches in diameter at the stump, in just a few minutes, each. I'm a convert.

 

[Page2]

Husqvarna chainsaws that were all great when new, but became harder and harder to start every year

I had the same hard to start problem with my Husky's, I was ready to junk 'em. A friend told me to replace the coil see if that helps. Wow, what a difference, a new coil and they run like new, easy to start hot or cold. Seems the coils break down over time, might try that.

 

[EddieWalker]

I know most people only talk about Stihl and Husky, but the guy who owns our local saw shop convinced me a couple of years ago to get an Echo Timberwolf CS-590, and it's my new favorite, over the Stihls I own. He said when guys go out cutting firewood together, it's always the Echo owner who keeps cutting while the others are fussing around, trying to get their saws running, or fixing an issue. That appealed to me. It starts faithfully in 3 or 4 pulls, max - one, if it's warm. I have a 24" bar on mine, and it hogs through trees like crazy. I recently felled a couple of newly-dead firs that were 36 inches in diameter at the stump, in just a few minutes, each. I'm a convert.

For everyone that has only owned Stihl, I agree that it's a good saw and there is no reason not to be happy with it. But if you ever buy an Echo that's similar in size and power, you'll see that it's a better saw.

 

[John_Mc]

For everyone that has only owned Stihl, I agree that it's a good saw and there is no reason not to be happy with it. But if you ever buy an Echo that's similar in size and power, you'll see that it's a better saw.

Better value, probably! Echo makes some good saws for decent prices. Stihl saws are expensive. But Echo better saw than Stihl on things other than price? Debatable. Maybe if you are comparing a higher end Echo to a homeowner or landowner series Stihl.

FWIW, I'm not a Stihl fanboy. All of my current saws are Husqvarna and Jonsered (plus one Milwaukee battery saw I bought because I was already heavily invested in Milwaukee M18 tools). I'd have bought a Domar years ago, except for the fact that the only dealer for them anywhere near me was a real oddball and I did not trust them to be in business for long.

My next saw may well be a Stihl if only because 3 of the 4 Husqvarna dealers that used to be nearby are gone (retired or their corporate office forced a switch to a different brand). The New Holland/Case/Kubota tractor dealer 10 minutes down the road has a good Stihl service department and carries most of Stihl's high-end equipment.

Unfortunately, there are no good servicing dealers for Echo near me. I won't buy my chainsaws from a big box store. I want to support someone who is there when I need them for service.

 

[BlueKnife]

So, my small engine mechanic tells me all new saws are garbage with these new EPA emissions. But I have a bunch of maples I just had felled. They are 14 inch at the tops and 26 and 31 inch at the bottoms. I only have an old Stihl 029 and thinking about getting something bigger. What do you all recommend.
I find looking at the saw websites very confusing. You see small saws that are more expensive than big saws?
Figure for what it cost to get them to block it all up, I may as well invest in a bigger saw.

What do you all recommend for this job?

There are some very nice new saws. Certainly not all garbage. You see small saws that cost more than larger ones because both Husky and Stihl make more than one grade of saws. Both have basically three grades of saws. Homeowner, farm and ranch, and pro. The Stihl 029 is a mid grade saw. Any of the Stihl or Husky pro saws are great. Personally, I would stay away from the electronic injection versions, although I know some loggers who love them I would also look at Echo if I were you. In my experience (25 years of professional tree work) they are every bit the saw that the Husky and Stihl pro lines are and they're generally less expensive.

 

[BlueKnife]

Better value, certainly! Stihl saws are expensive. Better saw? Debatable. Maybe if you are comparing a higher end Echo to a homeowner or landowner series Stihl.

They're definitely better than the Stihl homeowner and mid grade saws. I wouldn't say they're better, but they're directly comparable to the Stihl pro saws in the same size class. They do tend to be a bit colder blooded I've found. Never been an issue, but they do take a little longer to start when cold.

 

[JJT]

Better value, probably! Echo makes some good saws for decent prices. Stihl saws are expensive. But Echo better saw than Stihl on things other than price? Debatable. Maybe if you are comparing a higher end Echo to a homeowner or landowner series Stihl.

FWIW, I'm not a Stihl fanboy. All of my current saws are Husqvarna and Jonsered (plus one Milwaukee battery saw I bought because I was already heavily invested in Milwaukee M18 tools). I'd have bought a Domar years ago, except for the fact that the only dealer for them anywhere near me was a real oddball and I did not trust them to be in business for long.

My next saw may well be a Stihl if only because 3 of the 4 Husqvarna dealers that used to be nearby are gone (retired or their corporate office forced a switch to a different brand). The New Holland/Case/Kubota tractor dealer 10 minutes down the road has a good Stihl service department and carries most of Stihl's high-end equipment.

Unfortunately, there are no good servicing dealers for Echo near me. I won't buy my chainsaws from a big box store. I want to support someone who is there when I need them for service.

"Unfortunately, there are no good servicing dealers for Echo near me."

I bought 2 of my three Echos from an Echo dealer, and the 3rd at a garage sale. 20+ years and many hundreds of hours of use with no need to go back to the dealer. Maintenance has been a few spark plugs and air cleaners, nothing needing the dealer. The dealer is still in business if the need ever arises.

I run ethanol free gas and they all still start with no more than 4 pulls.

 

[EddieWalker]

To support my position that Echo makes the best chainsaw for the money, here is a link to the saw bought from Home Depot.

Echo CS-590 with a 20 inch bar and 59.8cc engine for $431.10

https://www.homedepot.com/p/ECHO-20-in-59-8-cc-Gas-2-Stroke-Rear-Handle-Timber-Wolf-Chainsaw-CS-590-20/204221580

Nobody can post a link to a better saw for that much money. It's not even close!!!

 

[RobertN]

My opinion on newer saws (ones that felling into the EPA emissions pit) is that for that same size CC saw you need to run a shorter bar and chain to experience the same cutting power. This forces you to buy a larger saw to run the same size bar and chain. Which means more weigh to use and more expense to purchase. Then is the factor of fuel, ethanol is hard on any small engine. It also does not produce the same power as non ethanol fuel. This results in a double hit on power on any saw.

It's not just EPA. European "EU" requirements are as strict or more than EPA. All these companies sell around the world, and have to meet stringent requierments of other countries, or group of countries in the case of the EU.

EU ErP Lot3,6 and 9 are a doosy for Computers, Workstations and Servers too... Impacts are not just on engines...

 

[davidbham]

I have three Stihl and two Husqvarna chainsaws that were all great when new, but became harder and harder to start every year. They are all different sizes and when running, they all work great. But even after paying to have them serviced, they are never easy to start.

My current favorite chainsaw is an Echo Timberwolf with a 20 inch blade and 59.8cc engine. I've had it three years and it is the easiest saw to start that I've ever used!!! The engine is huge and it's the only saw that has plenty of power. I also like how the plastic for the gas tank is see through and you can see how much fuel you have.

In my opinion, just about every saw in the same bar size and power range is going to cut as good as the chain that's on it. For me, what's important is how much I will have to suffer to get it to start when I want to use it.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/ECHO-20-in-59-8-cc-Gas-2-Stroke-Rear-Handle-Timber-Wolf-Chainsaw-CS-590-20/204221580

I think using high octane fuel seems to help with starting issues. Also, the name brand 2 cycle oils have the fuel preservative in them vs the low price oils.

 

[Striker70]

Wish I had bought a saw that would start without flooding ! Bought a Husky 550 XP with Autotune. This was 6 weeks ago and it is now in shop for third time. Wanted a saw from a dealer in case of problems. Have an Echo 310 and it starts every time without fail ! Husky was for larger trees I needed to remove and did not want to be making two cuts to make the face cut. Husky does not have a compression release and the Autotune is supposed to make starting easy enough to not need the compression release. Instructions say to put choke on and it "should" make a "puff sound" in two to three pulls and you release the choke and it will start ! Mine will flood out in first or second pull and there is no way to pull on it hard enough to overcome compression and fuel that is built up ! Have to remove the filter cover and pull the spark plug and let it sit for awhile and then put plug back in and cover on and then "bypass the Autotune" by putting a small bungee band around the throttle and pull maybe 10-15 times and the saw starts. Once running it does good job and has plenty of power. The compression is normally high anyway and for me to pull on the starter I need to put a 1x4 of about 3 feet long through the handle and stand on that to pull on the starter rope. In fairness I am having to use my left hand to pull the rope, due to old right hand injury, but there is no way I could just put my foot through the handle and pull...saw turns over on attempt to pull. Dealer says it is a "firmware" issue and their computer person needs to put it on the laptop to diagnose it ! Usually takes a week for this. Wish I had skipped the dealer and just bought a larger Echo at Home Depot !!