New Saw Recommendation

/ New Saw Recommendation #81  
Why are your saws hard to start? My still 261 starts every time. After 3 pulls. Is your gas going bad? What are you using for gas and are you using any stabilizer additives?
I am another fan of the MS261. To me it is a very powerful and lightweight Pro saw (The reason I bought it years ago) and with a good sharp 20" chain it flys through anything I am cutting.
It does always take at least 3 pulls and often 5 if it's sat for a month or more. I use E0 89 or 91 depending on which station I go to. So far I have always used Stihl 2 stroke oil and Amsoil Quickshot fuel treatment to prevent issues.
 
/ New Saw Recommendation #82  
I am another fan of the MS261. To me it is a very powerful and lightweight Pro saw (The reason I bought it years ago) and with a good sharp 20" chain it flys through anything I am cutting.
It does always take at least 3 pulls and often 5 if it's sat for a month or more. I use E0 89 or 91 depending on which station I go to. So far I have always used Stihl 2 stroke oil and Amsoil Quickshot fuel treatment to prevent issues.
4 pulls yesterday and 3 this morning.
Trufuel in every tank.
 
/ New Saw Recommendation #83  
Do get you some more bars. Amazing the difference in bars in right length for uses.

No need to haul around a 32 when only need a 20 or 24.

I keep 16 20 24 32 around.

20 24 32 shown.

I've been looking at another Sugihara but in 24". The Sugihara that's on the saw seems like a decent bar.

When I was on the volunteer fire dept, we had 044's on the Engines with 20" bar. I think a 24" would be a good setup for my property based on that expierience.
 
/ New Saw Recommendation #84  
I've been looking at another Sugihara but in 24". The Sugihara that's on the saw seems like a decent bar.

When I was on the volunteer fire dept, we had 044's on the Engines with 20" bar. I think a 24" would be a good setup for my property based on that expierience.
Great bars too. Japan made and great rails just like Tsu Japan made.
 
/ New Saw Recommendation #86  
The Stihl MS 261 is certainly a nice saw. It would be one of the saws at the top of my list for the OP if he were looking to replace his 029.

However, it would not be my first choice for someone looking to step up in size from an 029, as the OP mentioned. The 261 is a step down in cc's, and only about a 10% increase in HP over the 029. It's just too close to what he already has to add much capability to his collection.

For a step up, in the Stihl line, I'd be looking at a 362. It's a significant step up in power. There are similar saws from other manufacturers that would be just a good a choice.

He could go even bigger, but I'm guessing that the 26" - 31" diameter logs he is cutting up are not something he's going to be cutting every day for hours at a time. It may not be worth the extra expense of an even larger saw.
 
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/ New Saw Recommendation #90  
I have a Jonsered (Husky) CS2240, an Echo CS-590, an Echo CS-501P, and a Husqvarna 562XP Mark I. The last two are bona fide pro saws. I'm not including pole saws and cordless.

There is a lot to be said for the CS-590. Although it's a consumer saw, it has a lot of pro guts. It's not a plastic clamshell you throw away after two years. On the down side, it has a nutty hole in the main jet that will prevent you from tuning it properly, so you have to accept an inferior tune or push the jet out and replace it.

I wouldn't let choked-up carbs slow you down. I doubt saw manufacturers expect serious people to run their saws as they come from the factory, with ridiculous EPA exhausts. The 501P has a muffler part you can literally lift out and throw away after removing some screws. They didn't make it that way by accident. As for other saws, you can do them a lot of good by drilling holes in various areas of the mufflers. Information is all over the web.

I modified my 590 quite a bit, and it is very good now, but it only has a 20" bar. It might not be enough for OP.

Whether you would be concerned about violating your warranty with mods would depend on your dealer and your confidence in your ability to do your own work. Those warranties aren't great anyway. I mod at will, because I know how awful the local repair places are.

The Husqvarna is a pain to start due to overheating issues caused by a poor design, hence the "Mark I" and "Mark II." The Mark II is supposed to be better. The saw I have is somewhat faster than the Echo even with the Echo's mods.

If I were cutting big trees, I would strongly consider an Echo 7310. They are old-fashioned compared to fancy saws with electronics, but the simplicity means you can understand them and fix them without wacky software.

Vibration is something to consider. The older you get, the more you need to think about permanent damage. They say Husky is best, but I wouldn't know.
 
/ New Saw Recommendation #91  
I've always used Stihl. Currently on my 4rth MS251 and 3rd MS261C, Not sure I like the automatic choke on the latter, but I keep buying them - go figure. Both types last me about three years - enough for the warranties to expire. I keep the old ones for parts. Next time the 261 dies I'm going to replace it with a 251. I like to keep two working saws on hand, but don't need the heft or cost of the 261 any more.
 
/ New Saw Recommendation #92  
Ever thought of trying an electric saw? I have run quite a few saws over the years. Still have a Stihl MS362C and an Echo CS8000 for my gassers. Last year I picked up an Ego 16" chainsaw since I already had batteries for the pole saw and weed whacker. It's actually not half bad. Neighbors definitely appreciate the lack of noise, and it actually cuts pretty darn well. I use it for up to 12" diameter stuff. Anything bigger and I get one of the gassers out.
 
/ New Saw Recommendation #93  
I have a Husky 550 xp, a Makita/Dolmar 6401, and a ported Husky 395 XP and have wore out a 372XP. I stick with Husky and Dolmar as they can use the same bar pattern. Nothing wrong with Stihl saws I just went down the Husky road. I think Stihl are easier to work on in general. For the wood you describe I would recommend the 60cc and up saws with a 24” bar they will be more efficient and much faster in the long run with that many trees. The Makita/Dolmar 6401 type saws are a good value very tough built like tanks run well cut well and have great antivibe. I bought one well used from Home Depot rental department for $250 and it still going strong. The 372XP is a legendary saw and is tough to beat. I have used the 550XP a lot the last few years as it is so nice and light and have not had any problems with the auto tune modern carb set up. That size wood might be a bit much for it.
 
/ New Saw Recommendation #94  
Whatever brand saw you get (Stihl or Husky) get the pro saw models, not the consumer grade models. Get it from an authorized dealer, not a hardware store. Most hardware stores don’t carry the pro saws.
I concur.

I'm not claiming to be an expert, but I've heard these newer saws, from really all the top tier brands really get down, and perform, but again, I don't own one. I'm a big Husqvarna 372XP fan. I own the red version. (Jonsered)
 
/ New Saw Recommendation #95  
I am another fan of the MS261. To me it is a very powerful and lightweight Pro saw (The reason I bought it years ago) and with a good sharp 20" chain it flys through anything I am cutting.
It does always take at least 3 pulls and often 5 if it's sat for a month or more. I use E0 89 or 91 depending on which station I go to. So far I have always used Stihl 2 stroke oil and Amsoil Quickshot fuel treatment to prevent issues.
I purchase the premade mix bc my saw might sit for 3 months and then Ill use it. I just dont want to worry about about my small engine stuff.

Now my log splitter and pushing lawnmower. Thats been a different story. So i buy the non ethanol and used stabile. My gas would still go bad. Im also a amsoil member and just recently started using Amsoil quick shot.
 
/ New Saw Recommendation #96  
I use a lot of stihl stuff for lawn care and cutting, as I run through them, or want to upgrade and replace, I have noticed significant decrease in quality, and a uptick in ******** I hate on their tools. I will not buy any going forward, last new stuff bought early last spring and I regret it. I literally can't get people to buy the old stuff, they only will take "Free". I've been throwing it in the local dump. Stihl is a EU safety first, consumer second company at this point. This will end up destroying them, and I think they deserve it.
 
/ New Saw Recommendation #97  
Howdy kids,,,,, for decades I have used various gas chainsaws. A lot of good options. They do wear out. I just purchased a 20 inch electric. Very pleased. It appears the technology is up to speed. Expensive. Two sets of the 8 to 12 amp hour range batteries allows me continuous use. This is a ranch. Once per year a month or two of forest work. Forest work here is cut,,,, move out of the way or process... then cut some more. Occasionally cut constantly for an hour or two. Then not much chainsaw use for months except an occasional ten minute task. There is no pull start. The chain stops movement when not cutting... no idling. much safer. The oiler puts out a bit more oil which helps eliminate binding. The chain runs a bit slower. Speed of cut is correlates with sharpness of chain. Current chain outlasts Stihl chain. I also use a cordless 6 inch grinder with a wood cut blade to delimb small things. wow fast... be sure to use with handle and two hands!
As a rough and tough rancher I can say that unless I was doing full time forest work when a professional level small gas engine would be appropriate, the state of the art electric chainsaws have demonstrated superiority in many ways.
 
/ New Saw Recommendation #98  
Im also a amsoil member and just recently started using Amsoil quick shot.
I'm curious how the Amsoil QuickShot works out for you. I received a free bottle as part of a promotion, but have not tried it yet. From the description, it seems to be more of a fuel system cleaner than a stabilizer. It does mention "short term fuel storage", but gives no indication of how long it should be good for. They also make Amsoil Gasoline Stabilizer, which is more appropriate for long term storage, slowing oxidation and helping to prevent corrosion.

I've had very good luck using Stabil Storage for longer term storage. I've also occasionally used Stabil Marine with good results. The Stabil "In season protection" I've not tried - It seems more focused on fuel system cleaning, similar to the Amsoil QuickShot.
 
/ New Saw Recommendation #99  
Saws are following down the road of today’s trucks, CTL’s and farm tractors.
They are making them a lot more difficult to work on and complex so they are not only more profitable at point of sale, but also for future service.

I remember fixing saws as a kid along with dirt bikes and it was pretty easy. Not as easy today.
 
/ New Saw Recommendation #100  
One thing I have not seen mentioned is the chain. If you want your saw to cut fast, get a full-chisel, skip chain on it. It is more dangerous if you are not confident in your saw handling skills, but really speeds up your cuts if you know how to handle the saw safely. Most chains on saws nowadays are semi-chisel safety chains, which sacrifice speed for safety of the saw newby. I have been running skip chains for years on my big and mediums saws and have been very happy with the performance. I run full-chisel, but not skip chains on my limbing saws.

Chris
 
 
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