New member, educating self before selecting a tractor

[TimR009]

Hey all, I'm Tim.
So, this forum came highly regarded and I'll be strolling thru topics more than likely before doing much question asking.
My need for a tractor will be in about a year or less when I start needing one to take care of a 1/4 mile gravel drive going up a big hill or small mtn, depending on your definition of hill vs mtn. Property is in north GA, near Blairsville, and is just a couple miles from a dealer of both orange and green tractors and equipment.
Will also use for moving logs around, most being 12" and under, and 12' long, but a few bigger. No lawn mowing in my future! :cool2:

Anyway, thanks for providing this forum, looking forward to looking around. :thumbsup:

 

[jeff9366]

Due to the great mechanical advantage of large rear wheels, even a small 4-WD (25-hp) tractor can drag around logs from the tractor draw bar, however the logs will get dirty.

To keep logs clean you need to transport them using forks attached to a Front End Loader, in which case you need a larger, heavier, 4-WD tractor more like 35-hp to 45-hp.

For gravel road maintenance a 3-Pt. hitch mounted LPGS (Land Plane - Grading Scraper) would be a good implement choice.

Filling rear tractor tires lowers the center-of-gravity on your tractor making it more stable. As you have hills and are new to tractors consider having rear tires filled at time of purchase.

When shopping, ask of each model, can the wheels be moved out to increase the tread width? Some can, some cannot.

Photo #1, #2 (heavy) Kubota L3760, Photo #3 (light) Kubota B3300 SU

 

[mkr7734]

Everyone would like to think their pick for a tractor is the best one. So I will tell what I wish I did that I did not. Make sure you get something you can expand. Something that has or can have extra Hyd valves installed. This will allow you to get a grapple, tilt a plow, or have a 4 way bucket. Also make sure your loader has plenty of lift so it can handle a grapple, tilt a plow, or have a 4 way bucket. Also have Hyd out the back for log splitter or tilting a rear blade. That money spent in the front will always be worth it in the back. And don't trust what the salesmen tell you, look at different machines and their spec sheets then decide what is best for you. Most of them do a good job. Wish I had known that before I got talked into my JD3203.

 

[TBN Support]

Welcome to the forum!

I'm going to move your thread on over to the buying, pricing and comparisons section so we can keep the conversation going.

 

[TimR009]

Great advice folks, thanks. I agree completely and have noticed various options regarding secondary hydraulics and heard of discussions about filling the tires. Makes a little more sense now.
Moving the logs around seems like something that I was perhaps overcomplicating. I was looking online at some log lifts sold by sawmill makers, and others, but there should be much cheaper way using lift of the 3pt ... right?
I had thought I'd also consult with the guy doing my driveway to be sure I have sufficient HP and features, without going crazy and overboard...something I've been known to do. Can't afford to with this purchase.
I'll look into the grading scraper Jeff, and I guess the question on moving the wheels out is mostly one for stability on hilly ground?? Hadn't even thought about that capability, but definitely a concern.
Thanks all for the quick welcome and initial feedback!

 

[/pine]

Hey all, I'm Tim.
So, this forum came highly regarded and I'll be strolling thru topics more than likely before doing much question asking.
My need for a tractor will be in about a year or less when I start needing one to take care of a 1/4 mile gravel drive going up a big hill or small mtn, depending on your definition of hill vs mtn. Property is in north GA, near Blairsville, and is just a couple miles from a dealer of both orange and green tractors and equipment.
Will also use for moving logs around, most being 12" and under, and 12' long, but a few bigger. No lawn mowing in my future! :cool2:

Anyway, thanks for providing this forum, looking forward to looking around. :thumbsup:

Welcome to the forum Tim...I'm over in Rabun Co....same basic terrain...
...I highly recommend Nelsons there in Blairsville...great folks...!

 

[4570Man]

Pretty much any tractor can drag logs, but it makes a bigger mess and gets the wood dirty. I prefer to carry logs. I would want at least 1500 pounds of lift capacity at the pins. My loader is a little stronger and runs short trying to lift big logs. Here is my tractor loading a 24" red oak log that was about 10 feet long. It might have been longer because it stuck out of the truck bed quite a bit. It also loaded this maple log which was 34" at that big end and 8.5 feet long. It wouldn't budge this log, but it still drug it. It was over 40" on both ends and 11 feet long. If you want to lift firewood totes you are going to need a big tractor. I'm not going to claim I picked the perfect tractor. A TLB probably a L45 would have been much better for my intended use. You could use the 3 point hitch to move logs, but it will require manual labor to get the logs on the sawmill bed. You will have to lift the forks up to the right height and manually roll them off.

 

[jeff9366]

The question on moving the wheels out is mostly one for stability on hilly ground??

Hadn't even thought about that capability, but definitely a concern.

Yes.

If you are new to tractors you will be surprised how unstable tractors are because of the different size wheels front and rear. Plus you sit up high and that make the tractor FEEL even more unstable then it is. Plus, plus, tractors operate over rough ground.

 

[newbury]

Hey all, I'm Tim.
So, this forum came highly regarded and I'll be strolling thru topics more than likely before doing much question asking.
My need for a tractor will be in about a year or less when I start needing one to take care of a 1/4 mile gravel drive going up a big hill or small mtn, depending on your definition of hill vs mtn. Property is in north GA, near Blairsville, and is just a couple miles from a dealer of both orange and green tractors and equipment.
Will also use for moving logs around, most being 12" and under, and 12' long, but a few bigger. No lawn mowing in my future! :cool2:

Anyway, thanks for providing this forum, looking forward to looking around. :thumbsup:

Gravel drive - Box blade or plane

Logs - there are basically two ways for a tractor to carry a log - crosswise (on the FEL or 3 point) or drag behind.
You don't say but it seems to me if you want logs 12' long your talking for a sawmill or similar application. A 12' x 12" white oak weighs about 650 lbs.
Easily lifted on the 3 point of a small tractor like my B7610.

It is starting to push the limit for the FEL on a small tractor. However to carry a 12 FOOT log crosswise out of the forest will require about a 14 FOOT or wider path. I don't like to make extra wide paths.

"Dragging behind" approach, especially with a log arch is easier and you only need a narrow path.

I don't normally like to suggest far more than the OP needs, if you are dealing with NO trees over 18" DBH a 30 to 35 HP tractor should have enough power.

 

[4570Man]

Gravel drive - Box blade or plane Logs - there are basically two ways for a tractor to carry a log - crosswise (on the FEL or 3 point) or drag behind. You don't say but it seems to me if you want logs 12' long your talking for a sawmill or similar application. A 12' x 12" white oak weighs about 650 lbs. Easily lifted on the 3 point of a small tractor like my B7610. It is starting to push the limit for the FEL on a small tractor. However to carry a 12 FOOT log crosswise out of the forest will require about a 14 FOOT or wider path. I don't like to make extra wide paths. "Dragging behind" approach, especially with a log arch is easier and you only need a narrow path. I don't normally like to suggest far more than the OP needs, if you are dealing with NO trees over 18" DBH a 30 to 35 HP tractor should have enough power.

You aren't giving a large frame 35 hp tractor enough credit. See my above post to see what a 32 hp tractor is capable of. As long as you lifted one end up with the 3 point hitch I bet I could skid a 18" 10 foot long log with my wimpy B7200. It might need some ballast on the front to do it. I could skid a whole 18" tree minus the root ball with the L3240.

 

[TimR009]

The 12' long number for the logs has to do with initial approx. sizes cut during clearing of our property. We have about 9 piles of logs currently, mostly oaks. Some of these piles are on the downside of our drive, so will need to lift some out to process for firewood, for example. May look into a small sawmill at some point, as I do like dabbling at woodworking and it's a good way to get cheap lumber.
I'd say majority of it will end up as firewood.
I've looked at the log arches...pretty slick, and easy enough to use side-by-side utv for hauling logs it seems too. Looking at options for it too...Kubota makes fine product, and the same outfit, Nelson, carries both Kubota and JD utvs. Tough choice after seeing new Defender by CanAm.

 

[jeff9366]

I believe Kubota is the only UTV producer with HST transmissions.

If you need primarily a WORK UTV, give that consideration.

 

[Texasmark]

Hi Tim, I'm Mark

I moved from urbania in 1979. I have since been attempting to "educate" myself on farming principles including all the aspects of the subject. Still learning daily.

I learned that no one tractor does all, nor does one implement. Implements are usually a pain to hookup when you farm alone, so seeking the easiest tractor to implement connection is a plus, tractor and implement to the size of the job....however when starting out, money may cause you to skimp. But you can get your feet wet and as time passes, upgrade your equipment and/or diversify to suit tasks required. Having started with gassers....including LP, I got up enough money over the years to migrate to diesels and no way can I compare the two, hands down. Just nothing to say bad about them other than being able to initially afford one. Maintaining and operating have always been much less of a problem and expense.

This could go on and on, but this is a starter.

The weather is always wrong for your "windows" of opportunity to work your farm. If you are a meat producer you always have a problem getting good feed at a reasonable price; if a feed producer, you usually have a problem with customers, either not available as you'd like or real, or finding reasonable commodity prices....seed, chemicals.

Price and condition are usually the drivers....were for me. Never had any money so I shopped for the best price and hoped for the best. Lots of you fix it problems and questions were can you get parts and do you have the tools and expertise to do the job.

Getting starter smartelic neighbors were a PIA. They got their kicks teasing me and pulling tricks that the learned wouldn't cotton to.

 

[airbiscuit]

You will get a nice variety of advice here. Any Compact Utility Tractor (CUT) will put a smile on your face. Your first choice will be how big of a tractor to buy. That has to do with your needs and your budget. Few people have said "I wish I had bought a smaller tractor", but many have said "I wish I had bought a larger tractor". Horsepower is less important than size and weight, and the size (height) of the tires. It makes a huge difference in traction.

A trip to the dealer to test drive different sizes will give you a good feel for things. I would think a 30-35hp CUT would be perfect for your first tractor. If you go to a John Deere Dealer, you can get an idea of the different frame sizes:

1025 = Sub Compact - a lawn & garden tractor on steroids. Won't have close to enough traction for you
2025 = Small Frame CUT - Will do a lot of things for you, but your next tractor will be bigger!
3032e = Mid Frame CUT - might be the sweet spot for you.
4044 = Large Frame CUT - Nice if you can afford it. Power and traction to spare.

I am not pushing for brand here. Deere just makes it easy to illustrate frame size.

Figure tractor size out first, then think about options, then about attachments. Having a rear hydraulic remote or two is always a good idea. Quick attach buckets is another. We would all like to have a grapple, but there are a lot of 3pt "skidding" options available for a lot less money. Forks might also be nice to have. A back blade or box blade or land plane will take care of your driveway.