EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Any windows on those walls?
New garage time!
- Thread starter fatjay
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MF RED in MT
Veteran Member
Don't know if you have ordered any roof trusses yet, but...
Just a thought, why not install your sheathing on the outside wall while the stud framing is lying on the deck?
And the sheathing could extend down pass your metal joist channel a few inches just enough for protection from the weather.
Then you could locate the second floor wall so that the inside of the sheathing overlaps the outside sheathing of the first floor.
I really enjoy following your build.
KC
Just a thought, why not install your sheathing on the outside wall while the stud framing is lying on the deck?
And the sheathing could extend down pass your metal joist channel a few inches just enough for protection from the weather.
Then you could locate the second floor wall so that the inside of the sheathing overlaps the outside sheathing of the first floor.
I really enjoy following your build.
KC
OP
fatjay
Elite Member
I haven't heard back from the court but that will dictate what kind of roof trusses I order. If my limit is 35', standard trusses with 5/12 pitch, if it's 31', scissor trusses with 4/12 pitch, we're playing it by ear. But the moment I hear from court i'm ordering trusses and floors that day.
dragoneggs
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2013
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- 14,548
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- Seabeck, Washington
- Tractor
- Kubota BX-25D, Kubota Z122RKW-42
I continue to be impressed on how 'on top of' this project you are! :thumbsup:
OP
fatjay
Elite Member
My day job is tracking infectious disease, so currently for 8 hours a day, 5-6 days a week, i'm bombarded with covid crap non-stop. That can be very taxing on one's sanity. Everyone says "You just have to turn off the news for a while". Except I literally cannot. This is my escape.
pmsmechanic
Elite Member
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- Dec 6, 2013
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- 4,405
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- Southern Alberta, Canada
- Tractor
- 4410 and F-935 John Deere, MF 245
Not only the above but the floor if it's well tied in with the walls also helps to minimize racking. Build a box with plywood glued and screwed together on 5 sides and see if you can make the open end rack. For further rigidity make the box the same size as a patio block and then clamp it to the patio block. I just can't visualize it moving without there being serious structural damage. Ie plywood buckling or cement breaking.
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
What was the decision on the extra 1/4” of the joists overhanging the wall?
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fatjay
Elite Member
Run it over, take the upper walls out a hair, you can't even see it with the plywood on.
Finished all the 2nd floor walls, put the drywall corners in, got one row of plywood in. Front section of the wall is out so that I can have the material delivery people deliver right to the second floor.
Video of plywood going up: https://i.imgur.com/u2OxXkX.mp4
Problem with the floor. The end track bottom is 2" wide, the top plate is 7¼" wide. They're sitting on the outer 2" of the top plate, and are pushing the outside down and the inside up. As a result, I called up my steel guys, asked for a price on 80x 2x5" pieces of 12ga galvanized steel. They should be getting back to me tomorrow. I'll hammer them in when I get them to balance the load. I'm sure it would crush down eventually, but I'd rather have it done right.
Finished all the 2nd floor walls, put the drywall corners in, got one row of plywood in. Front section of the wall is out so that I can have the material delivery people deliver right to the second floor.
Video of plywood going up: https://i.imgur.com/u2OxXkX.mp4
Problem with the floor. The end track bottom is 2" wide, the top plate is 7¼" wide. They're sitting on the outer 2" of the top plate, and are pushing the outside down and the inside up. As a result, I called up my steel guys, asked for a price on 80x 2x5" pieces of 12ga galvanized steel. They should be getting back to me tomorrow. I'll hammer them in when I get them to balance the load. I'm sure it would crush down eventually, but I'd rather have it done right.
spitter
Platinum Member
Haven't seen anybody but me use a well wheel on a pipe scaffold in a long time . It's about as handy as sliced bread.:thumbsup: I took a duck bill vise grip and rremoved the back locking screw and replaced with a large eye bolt . Run the rope through the eye bolt tie into a not . Now you can use the rope to pull up plwood sheets 2 x any thing flat. I use it when rocking high walls 1 guy on top 1 cutting on ground . Ground guy pulls rock up to top guy . Wash rinse repeat.:drink:
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fatjay
Elite Member
You know I had that same idea. duck bill vice grips without the eye bolt. But my father actually convinced me it would dent the plywood to bad to get enough grip to hold it up.
deezler
Elite Member
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- Southeast MI
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- Cub Cadet 7305, Kioti CK3510seh TLB
Nice progress! Like Eddie asked.... no windows up there? I thought it was to be an apartment? Framing your window openings and installing sheathing is sooo much easier to do upon initial wall construction, IMO.
Yeah, too bad it looks like you'll be studying covid for a long, long time yet. Oy.
Yeah, too bad it looks like you'll be studying covid for a long, long time yet. Oy.
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fatjay
Elite Member
It'll be my office, shop, apartment for my daughters while they transition from college to their first real job, many things over the years. Or it may be storage for it's whole life. I am really not sure yet. It could be any of these things in 1, 5, 15, 30+ years as well.
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fatjay
Elite Member
Got my new screws in. They go through the bottom plate, plywood, and into the joist. Self tapping are fantastic. Put 2 screws per stud alternating inside and out. Put them in and gave the wall a shake, I was amazed how sturdy it was. No movement at all.
Got the lapping layer up between the first and second floor. Noticed the header over the one garage door was expanding. I'm between drilling it and putting big bolts and crushing it, or putting big clamps on it and trying to pull it in.
Got the lapping layer up between the first and second floor. Noticed the header over the one garage door was expanding. I'm between drilling it and putting big bolts and crushing it, or putting big clamps on it and trying to pull it in.
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fatjay
Elite Member
Cleared out the footers and put drain pipes in. Tar paper on the sides, 6 ton of stone in total, then tar paper on top. And just now looking at the images I realize I put one of the collection points in backwards. I'll dig that up and cut it up tomorrow. There will be 4 downspouts on the roof collecting the water that will go out to a cistern.
dodge man
Super Star Member
Is the perforated pipe sticking up for the downspouts just temporary? As usual looks like a nice job.
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fatjay
Elite Member
It's all i had for the moment, I'll cut them off at the top of the stone and put solid pipe when i put in dirt.
goeduck
Super Star Member
High Rise construction :thumbsup:
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Looking forward to hearing if you can go 3 stories or not. Hopefully you will get that decision soon!!
MickeyDBC
Gold Member
You are making good progress. My building that I am working on is 24' or so to the peak of the roof and I am using scissor lifts for anything over 8 feet off the ground. Started out just using the tractor and ladders and quickly discovered how much harder that made the job so I scrounged up a 25 year old Grove lift that made it much more doable as a weekend project. I looked at renting for the weekends but it gets really expensive quickly so buying an older one made more sense. What are your plans for the high work?
