New Farm and Need a Tractor..

[chaded]

Hey guys, my wife and I just bought a farm back in October and I am going to be needing a tractor. The previous owner had two tractors and left one for his dad which is a real close neighbor (has a little lot carved out of my property) and he gave me a key to it and I use whenever but I would like to get my own.

We have 257 acres. I have a 30 acre hayfield and i have a pasture (so beef related tasks). My driveway is very long and uphill and needs to be plowed. I also burn wood for heat so I will need it for trees and whatnot. I will also put food plots in and do some bush-hogging. The property is in southeast ohio and is really hilly.

Dealers close to me are Massey Ferguson, John Deere, and New Holland so I would like to keep it to those three. I would like to keep price around 30-45k and get something used? I was hoping you guys could get me going on the right track with which models I should be looking at.

Thanks!

 

[gersus]

Welcome to TBN!
Will you be baling hay or needing to lift/carry round bales?
You're gonna be busy with your tractor so I'd get a nice one, and definitely with a cab.
Many of New Holland tractors are made by LS. You can buy a LS for quite a bit cheaper and they're great tractors. There's a dealer in Bremen, Foltz Ag and Diesel service is thats close to you.

I would want a 50+hp tractor. Maybe a LS XR4155C unless you're gonna be haying. Then a LS XU model. There's lots of other great tractors though from Kubota like a MX, or a 5 series JD.

 

[jaxs]

When it come's to which brand is best,flipping a coin or asking your barber beat's asking on a public forum. Asking which brand used is three times as problematic. If the neighbor was kind enough to lend his tractor,he will be happy to help chose a tractor to suit your needs. Point is that judging used cars and tractors is an art that take's years of experience and can't be taught through posts on the net. I use those in my sig,if I thought there were better choices I would have bought them instead.

 

[chaded]

Welcome to TBN!
Will you be baling hay or needing to lift/carry round bales?
You're gonna be busy with your tractor so I'd get a nice one, and definitely with a cab.
Many of New Holland tractors are made by LS. You can buy a LS for quite a bit cheaper and they're great tractors. There's a dealer in Bremen, Foltz Ag and Diesel service is thats close to you.

I would want a 50+hp tractor. Maybe a LS XR4155C unless you're gonna be haying. Then a LS XU model. There's lots of other great tractors though from Kubota like a MX, or a 5 series JD.

Thanks, gersus. I will eventually need the tractor to bail and lift bails. As far as the LS, I have looked a little bit and there’s nothing close as far as i know.

 

[chaded]

When it come's to which brand is best,flipping a coin or asking your barber beat's asking on a public forum. Asking which brand used is three times as problematic. If the neighbor was kind enough to lend his tractor,he will be happy to help chose a tractor to suit your needs. Point is that judging used cars and tractors is an art that take's years of experience and can't be taught through posts on the net. I use those in my sig,if I thought there were better choices I would have bought them instead.

I’m not asking which brand is best or which brand used. I gave the three brands to choose from because that is the only thing I know of close that I might have support if I need it? The previous owner has a new JD Deere 5100e that he barely even used and a Massey 243 (that im/his dad) uses.

I get your point though and I do have someone experienced with tractors I plan to talk to and hopefully get to take with me. Just thought i would get some reccomendations from here on some models to look for, assuming they are in good condition.

 

[jeff9366]

My wife and I bought a farm in October. Therefore, I need a tractor.

The previous owner had two tractors and left one for his dad which is a real close neighbor (has a little lot carved out of my property) and he gave me a key to it and I use whenever but I would like to get my own.

Tell us the brand and model of the tractor you access and how it meets your perceived needs. Does it have a Loader? Is it 4-WD?


Give us some detail what is growing on the balance of your your 257 acres, beside the 30 acre hay field.

 

[jeff9366]

The previous owner has a new JD Deere 5100e that he barely even used and a Massey 243 (that im/his dad) uses.

Massey Ferguson 243

1999 - 2003 200 Three Series
Utility tractor

Manufacturer: Massey Ferguson
Factory: Coventry, England
Original price (USD): $20,050 (2003)

Massey Ferguson 243 Engine:
Perkins 2.7L 3-cyl diesel
full engine details ...

Capacity:
Fuel: 12.7 gal [48.1 L]
Hydraulic system: 8.5 gal [32.2 L]

3-Point Hitch:
Rear Type: II/I

Power Take-off (PTO):
Rear PTO: live (two-stage clutch)
independent (optional)
Rear RPM: 540

Dimensions & Tires:
2WD Wheelbase: 75.1 inches [190 cm]
4WD Wheelbase: 76.1 inches [193 cm]
Weight: 5045 to 5130 pounds
Front tire: 6.00-16
Rear tire: 13.6-28


Massey Ferguson 243 Power:
Engine: 52 hp [38.8 kW]
PTO (claimed): 47 hp [35.0 kW]
Drawbar (tested): 37.7 hp [28.1 kW]
PTO (tested): 47.6 hp [35.5 kW]

Mechanical:
Chassis: 4x2 2WD
4x4 MFWD 4WD
Steering: hydrostatic power
Brakes: independent wet disc
Cab: Two-post folding ROPS.

Hydraulics:
Capacity: 8.5 gal [32.2 L]
Pump flow: 9.5 gpm [36.0 lpm]
13.9 gpm [52.6 lpm] (optional)
Total flow: 9.5 gpm [36.0 lpm]
13.9 gpm [52.6 lpm] optional

 

[chaded]

Tell us the brand and model of the tractor you access and how it meets your perceived needs. Does it have a Loader? Is it 4-WD?


Give us some detail what is growing on the balance of your your 257 acres, beside the 30 acre hay field.

160 something is woodland (mostly big hardwoods), pasture, hayfield, some other open areas that I will put i to food plots (clover, turnips, etc.)

 

[chaded]

Massey Ferguson 243

1999 - 2003 200 Three Series
Utility tractor

Manufacturer: Massey Ferguson
Factory: Coventry, England
Original price (USD): $20,050 (2003)

Massey Ferguson 243 Engine:
Perkins 2.7L 3-cyl diesel
full engine details ...

Capacity:
Fuel: 12.7 gal [48.1 L]
Hydraulic system: 8.5 gal [32.2 L]

3-Point Hitch:
Rear Type: II/I

Power Take-off (PTO):
Rear PTO: live (two-stage clutch)
independent (optional)
Rear RPM: 540

Dimensions & Tires:
2WD Wheelbase: 75.1 inches [190 cm]
4WD Wheelbase: 76.1 inches [193 cm]
Weight: 5045 to 5130 pounds
Front tire: 6.00-16
Rear tire: 13.6-28


Massey Ferguson 243 Power:
Engine: 52 hp [38.8 kW]
PTO (claimed): 47 hp [35.0 kW]
Drawbar (tested): 37.7 hp [28.1 kW]
PTO (tested): 47.6 hp [35.5 kW]

Mechanical:
Chassis: 4x2 2WD
4x4 MFWD 4WD
Steering: hydrostatic power
Brakes: independent wet disc
Cab: Two-post folding ROPS.

Hydraulics:
Capacity: 8.5 gal [32.2 L]
Pump flow: 9.5 gpm [36.0 lpm]
13.9 gpm [52.6 lpm] (optional)
Total flow: 9.5 gpm [36.0 lpm]
13.9 gpm [52.6 lpm] optional

The Massey 243 was/is not used here for all the things I will be. I’m not saying it’s not capable but they didn’t use it for all of that. Someone else did the hay and they didnt move heavy trees around. I was thinking something bigger?

 

[jeff9366]

Tell us how the MF 243 you use meets your perceived needs.

Does it have a Loader? Is it 4-WD?

 

[chaded]

I have not used it much (moved here in November) to really gauge. It does have a loader and is 4wd.

 

[UpNorthMN]

Even though I’m a big IH fan, it all comes down to the best dealer support. You can find a good model of any brand that fits your price range, but if something goes wrong when you’re out in the field trying to make a deadline, you want a dealer who will be there to help you well and help you fast (my dealer has saved me numerous times during harvest season).

All of the brands you listed make excellent machines, but do you have any more information on what you would need to use it for?

 

[Grandad4]

I知 not asking which brand is best or which brand used. I gave the three brands to choose from because that is the only thing I know of close that I might have support if I need it?

You might also check out Kubota. There appear to be K dealers in Quaker City, Parkersburg, Athens, Circleville, Jackson, Lucasville and St Clairsville, if any of those would be near enough for you to consider.

Do some number crunching on the economics of doing your own haying. Many of the folks I've talked with, along with the discussions on this forum, seem to say you can't come out ahead producing your own hay with just 30 or so acres such as you have. Your investment in equipment alone drives up the cost to the point that you're better off contracting out the acreage. This decision will shape a lot of what you'll need in the way of a tractor.

If you're looking for used equipment, keep an open mind about brands. Getting one that's the right size and in good condition means more than what brand, as long as it's a major brand. There are some orphan brands or "grey market" models that should be avoided. Good idea having someone who knows farm equipment help you sort things out.

Good luck with your search.

 

[docsfarm]

Thought I would chime in. I don't have specific models to recommend but things to look for. I have 200 acre farm.. very hilly.. 140acres are woods. So a similar property.
I would echo the poster who recommended at least 50HP tractor to you. I bought a 50HP Mahindra. I am so thankful I didn't go smaller (thanks to recommendations here). There are days I wish I had a bit bigger, but those are few. With hills, the wider, heavier and lower the center of gravity, the better. Cab or open is up to you. I went open for some cost savings. 90% of the time I don't mind my decision at all. 10% of the time I wish I had a cab. I find the skid steer quick attach on my loader VERY helpful. Since looking used, I'd want that on the loader. Oh, And 4WD is a must with the hills.
Good luck!

 

[chaded]

You might also check out Kubota. There appear to be K dealers in Quaker City, Parkersburg, Athens, Circleville, Jackson, Lucasville and St Clairsville, if any of those would be near enough for you to consider.

Do some number crunching on the economics of doing your own haying. Many of the folks I've talked with, along with the discussions on this forum, seem to say you can't come out ahead producing your own hay with just 30 or so acres such as you have. Your investment in equipment alone drives up the cost to the point that you're better off contracting out the acreage. This decision will shape a lot of what you'll need in the way of a tractor.

If you're looking for used equipment, keep an open mind about brands. Getting one that's the right size and in good condition means more than what brand, as long as it's a major brand. There are some orphan brands or "grey market" models that should be avoided. Good idea having someone who knows farm equipment help you sort things out.

Good luck with your search.

Athens and Jackson are an hour or so. Doing my own hay is really not up on the list right now in priority and would be down the road. I’m not selling it, just doing it for my own cattle feed, but your point is still valid.

The previous owner has had a deal where a guy would come in and do all the work and keep half the hay and leave half the hay. But that guy let the hay get 4-5 ft this past summer because he is a lineman and is only home on the weekends... I have some other people willing to step in if I dont want to go that route. But, I just hate having to depend on other people long term like that.

 

[jeff9366]

chaded

We have 257 acres. I have a 30 acre hayfield. One hundred sixty acres is woodland (mostly big hardwoods). There are some other open areas that I will make into food plots. The property is in southeast Ohio and is really hilly.

I recommend a 50-horsepower to 60-horsepower tractor, with a Loader and 4-WD.
Tractors in this power range typically weigh 4,500 pounds to 5,500 pounds, bare tractor, and are around 74" wide at the tires. Pretty much what the previous land owner determined to be useful.

All tractor manufacturers make a "standard" model and a "deluxe" model in this weight range, which is a high volume segment. Shop away......

Tractors are inherently unstable on hilly ground. There are a standard set of options you need to improve stability on hilly ground:

1. Spread the variable rear wheels as wide as possible.
2. Fill the rear tires 3/4 with liquid, which lowers the center-of-gravity of the tractor.
3. Opt for 4-WD. Tractors only have brakes on the rear wheels. Four-wheel drive gives you a semblance of four wheel braking on slopes.
With 2-WD you can have virtually NO BRAKING ABILITY in some downhill situations.
4. Dealer installed rear wheel spacers.

4-WD is necessary to have enough traction to push a Loader into a pile of dirt or to spear and transport a round hay bale.


Doing my own hay is really not a priority. I'm not selling it, just doing it for my own cattle feed.

The previous owner has a deal where a guy would come in and do the hay work and keep half the hay. But that guy let the hay get 4-5 ft this past summer because he is a lineman and is only home on the weekends. I have others willing to step in if I dont want to continue arrangement with current operator.

You will never be able to hay thirty acres profitably. Too much expensive equipment is required. Continue to hay your 30 acres on shares.

My driveway is "very long" and uphill and needs to be snow plowed.

A Loader will handle moderate snow.
VIDEO: FEL bucket snow edges - YouTube

How much snow do you get in storms and how often? The next increment up for moving snow is a rear/angle blade. "Very long" does not tell us much on which to base recommendations.

I burn wood for heat so I will need a Loader to move trees and firewood.
Buy a stick of 1-1/4" PVC pipe. Cut PVC to tractor width, 74" long. Walk the pipe through the gates on your new land, barn entrance and into the woodland, to see how a 74" wide tractor will fit through your conditions.
A Loader bucket is almost always used for transporting firewood.

A Ratchet Rake bucket attachment is very useful in woods work. It tears vines out of trees. It is also useful for light grading and food plot development.
VIDEO: ratchet rake brush clearing - YouTube

I will do some bush-hogging.
Like other implements, bush hogs come in light duty for grass, medium duty for grass and light brush and heavy duty for woods mowing.


Here is a overview of tractor implements:
http://www.lsuagcenter.com/~/media/...aa214276e14dacb/pub2917tractorimplements1.pdf


I hope part numbers for your English built MF 247 match up with part numbers for American and Canadian built equivalent.

 

[BMan2005]

Hey guys, my wife and I just bought a farm back in October and I am going to be needing a tractor. The previous owner had two tractors and left one for his dad which is a real close neighbor (has a little lot carved out of my property) and he gave me a key to it and I use whenever but I would like to get my own.

We have 257 acres. I have a 30 acre hayfield and i have a pasture (so beef related tasks). My driveway is very long and uphill and needs to be plowed. I also burn wood for heat so I will need it for trees and whatnot. I will also put food plots in and do some bush-hogging. The property is in southeast ohio and is really hilly.

Dealers close to me are Massey Ferguson, John Deere, and New Holland so I would like to keep it to those three. I would like to keep price around 30-45k and get something used? I was hoping you guys could get me going on the right track with which models I should be looking at.

Thanks!

Sounds like you need some weight and decent HP. Getting into a small AG Tractor would fit about everything you want from what I'm reading. Look at the New Holland T4 series tractors, the cabbed version is laid out nice!

Welcome to TBN!
Will you be baling hay or needing to lift/carry round bales?
You're gonna be busy with your tractor so I'd get a nice one, and definitely with a cab.
Many of New Holland tractors are made by LS. You can buy a LS for quite a bit cheaper and they're great tractors. There's a dealer in Bremen, Foltz Ag and Diesel service is thats close to you.

I would want a 50+hp tractor. Maybe a LS XR4155C unless you're gonna be haying. Then a LS XU model. There's lots of other great tractors though from Kubota like a MX, or a 5 series JD.

LS makes just the Boomer series New Holland for the most part.

That XU series does look pretty dang nice.

 

[fishheadbob]

Athens and Jackson are an hour or so. Doing my own hay is really not up on the list right now in priority and would be down the road. I知 not selling it, just doing it for my own cattle feed, but your point is still valid.

The previous owner has had a deal where a guy would come in and do all the work and keep half the hay and leave half the hay. But that guy let the hay get 4-5 ft this past summer because he is a lineman and is only home on the weekends... I have some other people willing to step in if I dont want to go that route. But, I just hate having to depend on other people long term like that.

I'm thinking 70 to 80 hp and loader for a start. Reasonable hours, good condition, etc. Are you on dry, gravelly soil or on heavy wet land? I'm also thinking that not too far down the road you'll want a smaller 35 to 50 hp as well. There was a reason the previous owner had two. Both tractors don't have to be 4wd in case you run into a larger 2wd model, but feeding beef means lots of mud and you'll appreciate the extra traction of 4wd. Most but not all tractors are 4wd nowadays but you might find a larger 2wd model sitting on a lot because everybody has to have a cab and 4wd now. Whatever you find insure it has at least 2 hydraulic outlets.
How many head are you considering? Will you be spreading manure all year or only when conditions are nice? More work often translates into more horsepower, and more equipment. How much time do you have for the farm? Some people work 50 or more hours at their day job, have kids with soccer or scouting while others have ample time to put in.
When you have a guy doing your hay realize that you're not #1 on his list; he gets to your hay after his so yes, yours will be older, taller, and have less nutrient value than his because he comes first, then he'll get to you. The economics rarely work for 30 acres of hay.

There's a lot to consider.

 

[chaded]

I'm thinking 70 to 80 hp and loader for a start. Reasonable hours, good condition, etc. Are you on dry, gravelly soil or on heavy wet land? I'm also thinking that not too far down the road you'll want a smaller 35 to 50 hp as well. There was a reason the previous owner had two. Both tractors don't have to be 4wd in case you run into a larger 2wd model, but feeding beef means lots of mud and you'll appreciate the extra traction of 4wd. Most but not all tractors are 4wd nowadays but you might find a larger 2wd model sitting on a lot because everybody has to have a cab and 4wd now. Whatever you find insure it has at least 2 hydraulic outlets.
How many head are you considering? Will you be spreading manure all year or only when conditions are nice? More work often translates into more horsepower, and more equipment. How much time do you have for the farm? Some people work 50 or more hours at their day job, have kids with soccer or scouting while others have ample time to put in.
When you have a guy doing your hay realize that you're not #1 on his list; he gets to your hay after his so yes, yours will be older, taller, and have less nutrient value than his because he comes first, then he'll get to you. The economics rarely work for 30 acres of hay.

There's a lot to consider.

There is definitely a lot to consider! I have been talking about eventually having two tractors.

As far as the hay, the guy that does it only does this field. He doesn稚 have any hayfields so I am it. He just is only home on weekends and then he is at the mercy of the weather and family stuff.

That field had three good cuttings this past year but it got cut twice and it was crazy high. I like the guy but unless we can work something out to get it cut better (maybe me doing some of the work and him lending some equipment?) I will have to go with the next guy.

I am not doing anything big. I want at least 10 cow calf pairs and nothing more than 15-20.

 

[chaded]

chaded

We have 257 acres. I have a 30 acre hayfield. One hundred sixty acres is woodland (mostly big hardwoods). There are some other open areas that I will make into food plots. The property is in southeast Ohio and is really hilly.

I recommend a 50-horsepower to 60-horsepower tractor, with a Loader and 4-WD.
Tractors in this power range typically weigh 4,500 pounds to 5,500 pounds, bare tractor, and are around 74" wide at the tires. Pretty much what the previous land owner determined to be useful.

All tractor manufacturers make a "standard" model and a "deluxe" model in this weight range, which is a high volume segment. Shop away......

Tractors are inherently unstable on hilly ground. There are a standard set of options you need to improve stability on hilly ground:

1. Spread the variable rear wheels as wide as possible.
2. Fill the rear tires 3/4 with liquid, which lowers the center-of-gravity of the tractor.
3. Opt for 4-WD. Tractors only have brakes on the rear wheels. Four-wheel drive gives you a semblance of four wheel braking on slopes.
With 2-WD you can have virtually NO BRAKING ABILITY in some downhill situations.

4-WD is necessary to have enough traction to push a Loader into a pile of dirt or to spear and transport a round hay bale.


Doing my own hay is really not a priority. I'm not selling it, just doing it for my own cattle feed.

The previous owner has a deal where a guy would come in and do the hay work and keep half the hay. But that guy let the hay get 4-5 ft this past summer because he is a lineman and is only home on the weekends. I have others willing to step in if I dont want to continue arrangement with current operator.

You will never be able to hay thirty acres profitably. Too much expensive equipment is required. Continue to hay your 30 acres on shares.

My driveway is "very long" and uphill and needs to be snow plowed.

A Loader will handle moderate snow.
VIDEO: ratchet rake snow edge - YouTube

How much snow do you get in storms and how often? The next increment up for moving snow is a rear/angle blade. "Very long" does not tell us much on which to base recommendations.

I burn wood for heat so I will a Loader to move trees and firewood.
Buy a stick of 1-1/4" PVC pipe. Cut PVC to tractor width, 74" long. Walk the pipe through the gates on your new land, barn entrance and into the woodland, to see how a 74" wide tractor will fit through your conditions.
A Loader bucket is almost always used for transporting firewood.

A Ratchet Rake bucket attachment is very useful in woods work. It tears vines out of trees. It is also useful for light grading and food plot development.
VIDEO: ratchet rake brush clearing - YouTube

I will do some bush-hogging.
Like other implements, bush hogs come in light duty, medium duty and heavy duty.


Here is a overview of tractor implements:
http://www.lsuagcenter.com/~/media/...aa214276e14dacb/pub2917tractorimplements1.pdf

Driveway is at least 500 ft, uphill and has a couple bends. Im on my second winter here (in this area) and last year was really mild. We did get 3-4 last night and I used the MF 243 to plow this morning. I used a rear blade. It did pretty good!

I guess I was under the impression I needed something in the 100 hp range but now I知 thinking I will be perfectly fine with something lower.