New built 3pt log splitter

[J_J]

Prinve LSR valve. $90

Prince LSR Rapid Extend Logsplitter Valve - Cylinder Services

 

[165masseyky]

Actual formula: (PSI x GPM) / 1714 = HP

3000 x 29 = 87,000

87,000 / 1714 = 50.758

So basically I am back to where I started. Hook to the remotes buy the Prince valve and go on with life. I figured when this started i would end up back here but just wanted to make sure. Thanks everyone for your input and feel free to gimmie a shout if you are interested in the pump at all I will consider trades as well. Somebody will be looking for this thing to work that snow plow when winter gets here lol.:thumbsup:

 

[Car Doc]

So basically I am back to where I started. Hook to the remotes buy the Prince valve and go on with life.

I just did this exact thing tried to reason a pto pump etc and finally just to try it I rigged my splitter up to tractor hydraulics and it works just fine simple is good.

I took JJ's and a few others advice on hooking it to the tractor and using the lsr 3060 fast extend valve and it is fast you will be amazed how well it works and on a 3.5 cyl it should be even quicker than my 4".

 

[J_J]

Actual formula: (PSI x GPM) / 1714 = HP

3000 x 29 = 87,000

87,000 / 1714 = 50.758

This stuff is confusing at times.

Pumping = 1 Hp = 1 GPM x 1500 Psi Basic rule

-----------30 HP = 29 GPM x 1500 psi

-----------60 HP = 29 GPM x 3000 psi


I think the efficiency loss or 85 % may affect the calculations.

I believe that formula you stated is the HP the pump is actually producing, not what it takes to drive the pump.

http://www.coastalhyd.com/pdfs/p3.pdf

If you are directly driving this pump, I think the formulas is good.

There will be a HP loss when using belts and pulleys, and I believe the Surplus formula fill in the blanks page is correct, because they add in the 85% loss factor. Note to self, loss is about 15%, not 85%

 

[165masseyky]

I just did this exact thing tried to reason a pto pump etc and finally just to try it I rigged my splitter up to tractor hydraulics and it works just fine simple is good.

I took JJ's and a few others advice on hooking it to the tractor and using the lsr 3060 fast extend valve and it is fast you will be amazed how well it works and on a 3.5 cyl it should be even quicker than my 4".

Well I am about to find out. I have ordered the LSR valve and I already have the splitter plumbed for the remotes of my 165mf if it doesn't work to suit me I will attack it again later but at the very least I have a reason to slip the purchase of the valve past the wife...Shhhhhhh....

 

[Bugsyinc]

.....I believe that formula you stated is the HP the pump is actually producing, not what it takes to drive the pump......

HP in (minus mechanical losses) = HP out
You are correct about mechanical losses, although it is 85% efficiency (15% loss) not 85% losses...

My formula doesn't consider the losses which are often much less than 15% (this is the formula that hydraulic engineers use, but they also calculate the actual losses)

The plug and play calculator will definitely point you in the right direction for most DIY'ers

 

[bubbacuse77]

I don't like to tell anyone how to do stuff unless your asking. If your asking, I wouldn't run it off the rear remotes. If you don't mind running the risk of damaging your 3rd function valve. You are putting high pressure on the return to sump side of the valve everytime you split a piece of wood. To do it right you really need a power beyond kit to run it off of. You also need to make sure your remote lines are large enough to handle the continuous open loop of your hydro system.

Sorry if I added confusion.

 

[Car Doc]

bubbacuse77, nice job on your splitter it looks great! :thumbsup:

 

[bubbacuse77]

Thanks, I took a lot of info from this site.

 

[J_J]

I don't like to tell anyone how to do stuff unless your asking. If your asking, I wouldn't run it off the rear remotes. If you don't mind running the risk of damaging your 3rd function valve. You are putting high pressure on the return to sump side of the valve everytime you split a piece of wood. To do it right you really need a power beyond kit to run it off of. You also need to make sure your remote lines are large enough to handle the continuous open loop of your hydro system.

Sorry if I added confusion.

You are correct for the most part. He can still use the remote with PB, and use only one hose to the log splitter IN port. The log splitter OUT port could be sent directly to tank, and not plug into the port on the remote.

 

[bubbacuse77]

Yep JJ your right he could do that. The other issue is if those remotes where, say 1/4" or 3/8" inch and his power hydro loop though his loader/3rd function/rock shaft was say 1/2" or 5/8". Might cause some heat in the fluid but most likey with a smaller tractor that pushes 4-5 gpm it shouldn't matter, hey.

 

[wdchyd]

Bubba,

Beautifull job on that splitter...the green paint makes it look well at home behind that JD.....

I've been contemplating putting a stand-alone one together with odds and ends, but making one to go on the 3ph makes more sense to me too.....

Nice Job..:thumbsup:

 

[165masseyky]

Yep JJ your right he could do that. The other issue is if those remotes where, say 1/4" or 3/8" inch and his power hydro loop though his loader/3rd function/rock shaft was say 1/2" or 5/8". Might cause some heat in the fluid but most likey with a smaller tractor that pushes 4-5 gpm it shouldn't matter, hey.

I purchased a 2 spool macro valve that has a PB port on it should I replace my existing remote valve with the PB valve and run a 3/4 line with QD on it for my splittler return? The line coming from the QD I am currently using as my pressure line now is 1/2.Is that sufficient and if not may I have a suggestion on what I need to do. If I need to do this where do i need to hook the return line on a 1973 165 MF.:confused2:

 

[bubbacuse77]

1/2" inch is should work good. Make sure not only the hose but also the couplings are sized right. 3/4" might be overkill unless you have a big tractor.

 

[bubbacuse77]

And don't forget......"stay classy".

Just watched Anchor Man again and was inspired to change my avatar

 

[165masseyky]

1/2" inch is should work good. Make sure not only the hose but also the couplings are sized right. 3/4" might be overkill unless you have a big tractor.

Ok but the ports are 3/8 on the valve. So I need to come off the return side of the valve with a 3/4 line to 3/4 QD to return on the tractor? Any suggestions on where i can find a return plug on my tractor? Thanks for the help everyone and for the patience.

 

[J_J]

I purchased a 2 spool macro valve that has a PB port on it should I replace my existing remote valve with the PB valve and run a 3/4 line with QD on it for my splittler return? The line coming from the QD I am currently using as my pressure line now is 1/2.Is that sufficient and if not may I have a suggestion on what I need to do. If I need to do this where do i need to hook the return line on a 1973 165 MF.:confused2:

I would say that if you have a valve with PB, to use it. They also make a log splitter valve with PB, for full system protection.

If your log splitter valve does not have PB, you could dump the OUT flow of the splitter to tank.

All valves should have PB, except the 3pt valve as it dumps directly to tank.

I believe most manufacturers recommend to connect the OUT port of the valve to tank. The OUT port usually only has about a 250 to 500 psi rating.

The nomagraph for hose sizing indicates 1/2 should support 10 GPM, but 3/4 connectors might recoup the lost flow.

 

[bubbacuse77]

Ok but the ports are 3/8 on the valve. So I need to come off the return side of the valve with a 3/4 line to 3/4 QD to return on the tractor? Any suggestions on where i can find a return plug on my tractor? Thanks for the help everyone and for the patience.

I don't mean any disrespect but are you messureing the hoses on the outside or are you refering to the inside diameter of the hose when you say 3/4" hose. What kind/size tractor do you have?

The plug on my tractor to retun it to the tank is on the right side of the rock shaft housing. Realize if you return the flow directly from the splitter valve to the tank you may not have funtion of your 3pt to move it up and down.

 

[165masseyky]

I don't mean any disrespect but are you messureing the hoses on the outside or are you refering to the inside diameter of the hose when you say 3/4" hose. What kind/size tractor do you have?

The plug on my tractor to retun it to the tank is on the right side of the rock shaft housing. Realize if you return the flow directly from the splitter valve to the tank you may not have funtion of your 3pt to move it up and down.

I was meaning ID at 3/4 but I think 1/2 should be ok. I am using a 1973 165 with the perkins diesel. If I run my remotes I don't have 3pt now because the selector on the top cap only allows 3pt or aux. If I am understanding this correctly I can replace the remote valve I have with a valve that I have which has a PB port and run the splitter from the PB port without tieing my control lever back on the valve for the remotes I still wont have 3pt I don't think though. I will look for the return plug on my service manual and run the return from the splitter to there via a 1/2 ID line. Does that sound right?

 

[bubbacuse77]

I was meaning ID at 3/4 but I think 1/2 should be ok. I am using a 1973 165 with the perkins diesel. If I run my remotes I don't have 3pt now because the selector on the top cap only allows 3pt or aux. If I am understanding this correctly I can replace the remote valve I have with a valve that I have which has a PB port and run the splitter from the PB port without tieing my control lever back on the valve for the remotes I still wont have 3pt I don't think though. I will look for the return plug on my service manual and run the return from the splitter to there via a 1/2 ID line. Does that sound right?

by what you said above....you should be able to go the low cost route of bungee cording your valve in one direction. just make sure you use the right port for the way you move the lever. Then that hose from your tractors valve that you tie open goes to the splitter valve. the out hose from the splitter valve goes to the tank.......you just have to find a way into the tank. I'm not farmiliar with a 165 so I can't help you there but that selectable valve thingy sounds cool. this way you can select the 3pt when you want to lower or raise it and then switch back to the other valve to run the ram on the splitter. Unless you have a tractor pushing more than 12 gpm you should only need 1/2" hose. Is the 165 a big or small tractor?