New 2501 Questions

[Turbofire Orange]

New member here...

Looks like 50 hr service I change oil and filter
and change hydrostatic filter (only).

Is this pretty much it ?

What grade oil for warm (32+) clime,
seems grade is dependent as to weather I have an EGR valve
which begs the next ? Do I have an EGR valve ?

Is there a grease fitting on FEL control valve ?

Lastly, Is there a way to reduce friction on hand throttle (very stiff) ?

Currently @ 10 hrs. One great lil' tractor !

 

[nybirdman]

Change engine oil and filter,hydrostatic filter,grease everything,check front diff. and retorque wheels and FEL bolts.
Things are new and they will loosen up some with use.

 

[davesl708]

Hi welcome.
Most 50hr service intervals are filters and screens. You hydraulic suction line usually has a screen to trap large particles leftover from manufacturing.
You may want to use the shop vac method for changing the hyd. filter to keep from draining all the oil.
The engine oil can be any type that meets your manufacturers specs. The manual should identify what type is acceptable to maintain your warranty.
I am not familiar with your specific tractor as to whether or not it has an EGR valve. Your dealer could answer that.
The FEL control valve does not usually have a grease zerk.

The throttle control arm can be adjusted for tension. It needs to be tight enough to not move while operating. You don't want it speeding up or slowing down while operating.

 

[junkyardwarrior]

No grease fittings on the loader valve (assuming it's the LA525 loader). The fittings are all on the pins of the loader, usually at the ends of the cylinders. And if you have a skid-steer attachment on the loader, there are fittings on it too.

Don't forget the air filter. And check the coolant bottle. Clean the radiator (not just the screen). Check the fan belt tension while you're in there.

No EGR on the 2501 (yay!). It's just an L3200 with a different governor/injection pump. And of course a little different gearing in the transmission to compensate for the slower engine RPM.

Hand throttle has a pair of jam nuts on the bottom side of it to adjust the tension. However, I usually lubricate it before playing with the actual adjuster and 99.99% of the time it solves the problem of being stiff. Chain lube works great and stays on.

15w40 engine oil works well for most climates. The Yankees (northerners) might want to double check your manuals for oil recommendations as it'll change with the extreme cold that y'all get.

 

[s219]

Not sure about the 2501, but my near-identical 3200 called for both the HST and hydraulic filter to be changed at 50 hours, so two filters (in addition to engine oil and engine oil filter).

 

[Turbofire Orange]

Gotcha on the hydraulic filter. A little confusing as it appears to be a common fill
for both hydraulic and hydrostatic fluid
(top of rear axle).

2501 engine is 100.47 CID, can't find this engine in any other models.
Produces HP down low at 2200 RPM

Thanks for throttle tip, it's nice and smooth now.

Can't get idle below 1000 RPM. Is this typical ?

 

[K3901]

I have a L3901. big brother to your 2501. my owners manual was very clear on what all needed to be done at the 50hr service. it was oil and filter. and one hydraulic filter (the one under the left side when sitting on the tractor). all was very easy to do. there are grease fittings all over the loader. i try to hit them about every 10 hrs or so. im not sure about the EGR valve. i know mine has a DPF so i would assume it has one but not really sure...something ill have to check on now that you have me curious. i picked up all my oil and filters from the dealer so i knew i had what manufacture recommended.

 

[Turbofire Orange]

K 3901,

No hydrastatic filter to change ?

2501 has both hydra and HST filters.

HST under left foot,
hyd under right foot @ FEL hoses, I believe.

 

[K3901]

my manual and the dealer both said to just change the one on the left. they said the other one gets changed at the 400 hour service. i dont see where it would hurt to change it at the 50 hr service but according to them and kubota its not needed

 

[The Deerslayer]

my manual and the dealer both said to just change the one on the left. they said the other one gets changed at the 400 hour service. i dont see where it would hurt to change it at the 50 hr service but according to them and kubota its not needed

Same here. Still have a little more than 20 hours to go before it's time to do it.

 

[gwstang]

My L2501 is a shuttle shift. I used this kit for change

Kubota: Kubota Filter Kit, Part # 77700-03324 | Messick's

 

[Turbofire Orange]

Thanks,

I just e-mailed Messicks

 

[cmcramer]

My year old non-HST L2501 is now due for its first oil change. If I understand the terminology (...and the Owner's Manual...) properly, this L2501 has a non-Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) engine, and therefore has no Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF). For engine oil, the Owner's Manual says that API CJ-4 is intended for DPF type engines, and cannot be used on this tractor. OK so far.

It says the following API classifications are acceptable: CF , CF4, CG4, all of which are termed "obsolete" by American Petroleum Institute ! So I assume they are no longer sold. http://www.api.org/~/media/Files/Ce...iesel/Publications/MOM_GUIDE_ENGLISH_2013.pdf

Also acceptable are API CH4 or CI4. Darn if I can't find either. First 6 or 7 brands all say API CJ4 on the label. And since CJ4 is the latest and greatest API classification....is CH4 or CI4 even manufactured anymore? I have not asked my dealer yet, that's my next step. thought I'd ask here first.

Anyone know of an oil brand that meets CH4 or CI4 API? And some oil brands say "API CI4 AND CJ4" Hmmm. Wonder if this meets Kubota's spec of DO NOT USE CJ4...

thanks!

 

[nybirdman]

My year old non-HST L2501 is now due for its first oil change. If I understand the terminology (...and the Owner's Manual...) properly, this L2501 has a non-Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) engine, and therefore has no Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF). For engine oil, the Owner's Manual says that API CJ-4 is intended for DPF type engines, and cannot be used on this tractor. OK so far.

It says the following API classifications are acceptable: CF , CF4, CG4, all of which are termed "obsolete" by American Petroleum Institute ! So I assume they are no longer sold. http://www.api.org/~/media/Files/Ce...iesel/Publications/MOM_GUIDE_ENGLISH_2013.pdf

Also acceptable are API CH4 or CI4. Darn if I can't find either. First 6 or 7 brands all say API CJ4 on the label. And since CJ4 is the latest and greatest API classification....is CH4 or CI4 even manufactured anymore? I have not asked my dealer yet, that's my next step. thought I'd ask here first.

Anyone know of an oil brand that meets CH4 or CI4 API? And some oil brands say "API CI4 AND CJ4" Hmmm. Wonder if this meets Kubota's spec of DO NOT USE CJ4...

thanks!

For your first and once a year oil change why not just purchase the proper oil/filter from the dealer.That way you will have no warranty issues.

 

[Paystar]

The oil classifications are the one area the owners manual is outdated and not correct. All the newer classes of engine oils are backwards compatible. Thye all had to comply with that.
And what made it even funnier is the last time I bought Kubota brand 10W30 (before I switched to Rotella synthetic) is the new labeling they put on the jug says it is CJ-4 approved, LOL.

 

[cmcramer]

For your first and once a year oil change why not just purchase the proper oil/filter from the dealer.That way you will have no warranty issues.

Good point. I will probably do just that, nybird. I am just trying to educate myself. I'm not 1000% confident of the guy behind the parts counter at my nearest dealer. And Paystar, what you say about backwards compatibility of newer API oils certainly makes sense to me. What does NOT make sense is an owner's manual that is in error. I am still hesitant to put oil in my new tractor that the manual specifically says not to.

Guess I'll ask my Dealer for the approved motor oil, read the its API label, THEN show him the owners manual language. Let's see what he says!

 

[nybirdman]

Oswego eh!Lots of memories of that area.Worked at the nukes between 1976-1985 off and on.Lived out-side of Fulton and bought a house in Phoenix.Don't miss those "lake effect" snow falls for sure.Good luck with your new tractor;treat her well and it will last forever.

 

[Paystar]

Good point. I will probably do just that, nybird. I am just trying to educate myself. I'm not 1000% confident of the guy behind the parts counter at my nearest dealer. And Paystar, what you say about backwards compatibility of newer API oils certainly makes sense to me. What does NOT make sense is an owner's manual that is in error. I am still hesitant to put oil in my new tractor that the manual specifically says not to.

Guess I'll ask my Dealer for the approved motor oil, read the its API label, THEN show him the owners manual language. Let's see what he says!

That's what makes it funnier though.....when you purchase Kubota brand oil it's the oil the manual tells you NOT to use, LOL.

 

[gwstang]

Mine will be a year old next month. I've got a grand total of 70 + hours on it. I used the shell rotella diesel synthetic oil in mine at 50 hours. Still purring right along.

 

[motownbrowne]

That's what makes it funnier though.....when you purchase Kubota brand oil it's the oil the manual tells you NOT to use, LOL.

Exactly!!

I encountered this exact situation. I called the dealer and asked about it. The service guy said "just buy the Kubota oil so you know you're putting the right stuff in there" I asked him to go read me the label sure enough it's CJ-4 rated, just like they tell you not to use in the manual. It carries the same ratings as Delo 400le, Rotella, etc. I think the issue is moot as long as the oil also carries the previous rating, which they all do. As someone else said, they're pretty much all backwards compatible.