Needs tips on using rough cut

[gretnagritty]

when I am mowing very tall thick reed grass, the tough cut will bog down. It works better if I raise it up (partial or maximum). Any problem with mowing with the deck raised up high on a first pass? Or should I only do that for short distance?

 

[Chris616]

I interpret that you mean that you don’t have the SDLA lever in the “float” position, but instead have the mower lifted somewhat. That is not what the manual says to do. I see two problems with that:

• There is no independent up/down movement possible between the mower and tractor, so if the deck is only lifted a bit and you go through a dip in the ground the mower wheels could contact the ground and try to lift the front of the tractor up, putting a lot of force on the front hitch arms.
• All the weight of the mower deck is being supported by the front hitch arms, so if the ground undulates and you’re driving too fast there can, again, be a lot of force applied to the hitch arms as the mower bounces up and down.

Is there a reason why just driving more slowly isn’t the answer?

 

[gretnagritty]

Thank you.

That all makes sense. And yes, I was trying to be able to move faster and cut at a higher level, but the points you raise have convinced me to max out cutting height at wheels and then go slow.

 

[Chris616]

Do you have the front mounted caster wheels that allow the deck to be operated much higher than the built-in wheels? Those should have always been standard equipment, which it seems they now are, not an optional extra.

 

[gretnagritty]

I do and I run at highest level. I have just slowed my speed down and allowing ok. Sometimes I will edge in slowly to a thick shrub with it raised and do one pass and then run it in float and that seems to be a good balance.