Needing some advice building a lean-to.

[rcrcomputing]

Give you an example. You would not want to use a double 2x12 with plywood in between them for a 16' garage header because of the possibility of sagging..
Soo, in the application, I would notch the posts as instructed and use a double 2x12 with plywood between them.

 

[RobJ]

Free standing with a shed roof Eddie.

MarkV

Of this is where I got lost, its not what I would call a lean-to. The usually share the 4th wall with another building.

 

[RobJ]

you loose the ability to let the rafter run past the beam so you have an over hang.

As I was reading along I was thinking of what Mark just said. Even on a slanted roof shed I like some overhang to help keep the water off the side of the structure. I've only done one with an overhang and it only lasted 4 years. Just didn't like all the water on it i guess. I recentlt tore it down.

BTW, also keep in mind instead of going bigger (2x12), you can go wider for strenght. tripple 2x8's is stronger than 2 2x10's for certain spans. there is a lot you can do with lumber.

Rob

 

[RobJ]

There may be 24' long 2x10s or 2x12s around, but I have never seen one and if they do exist I imagine that they'd cost a pretty penny.

I used 24' 2x8's in my garage. Only 6 across the 20' depth as they are there only to hold the walls from going in or out. I don't have much stuff in the attic either.

I recall them still being priced pretty much by the BF. But you won't usually find them in the box store. All of the lumber I used for the house and garage was bought through and delivered by a lumber yard. The only way to go!!

Rob

 

[fishpick]

The Texas Gulf coast doesn't get that much snow.

Rob

oops

 

[cjcocn]

I used 24' 2x8's in my garage. Only 6 across the 20' depth as they are there only to hold the walls from going in or out. I don't have much stuff in the attic either.

I recall them still being priced pretty much by the BF. But you won't usually find them in the box store. All of the lumber I used for the house and garage was bought through and delivered by a lumber yard. The only way to go!!

Rob

So they are out there! I'll have to ask at our local lumber yard - just to see if they are available in our area and how much they are asking for them.

Thanks Rob!

 

[EddieWalker]

Give you an example. You would not want to use a double 2x12 with plywood in between them for a 16' garage header because of the possibility of sagging..
Soo, in the application, I would notch the posts as instructed and use a double 2x12 with plywood between them.

I'm not sure what you said here?

There are allot of homes, millions, that have 16ft garage door openings made of two 2x12's with plywood sandwiched between them. I've replaced them and I've put them in there myself. Now you'd have to check to see if it's code or not. The last house I built required a glu-lam beam for a garage door header, but I couldn't possibly know if that is now a universal code requirement, or just localized.

Eddie

 

[Jerome]

The local building official is paid to give advice as to what is code in you area, code is the minimum standard you should build to. Go ask them and get the permit it is to insure it is done right and safely.

 

[Chuck K.]

Of this is where I got lost, its not what I would call a lean-to. The usually share the 4th wall with another building.

Seems this is where I screwed up the terminology again.. This is a free standing shed with a slant roof I am going to build behind my 40'x60'x18' metal, shop 10' of it will be enclosed for the air compressor and water well holding tank. Fortunately it will be behind the shop and out of sight in case it turns out to be an eye sore, this may be more then I can handle by myself as it looks like a steep learning curve but I'm gonna give it heck..

All of you have made many comments that prevented me from making some huge mistakes. The reason for this particular dimension is I have a lot of salvaged treated 2x6'sx12' long. along with enough metal roofing to cover 12'x24'
I am going to reduce the size of the frame work so I can use this 12' lumber and metal roofing. Had it not been for all this great input I would not had any over hang and too weak of a header.

Just to help clarify here is my fancy computer drawings of an end view. I dont know how to resize it, it was an excel worksheet.. I was lucky someone showed my how to do a "screen capture" and paste it on microsoft paint or there would be no pics

End view..



Here is a sketch of how I intend for shop/well/shed to be laid out... The slant roof shed is in the lower right corner, clicking on magical "X" on lower right corner will enlarge it..

I welcome any input/comments on this as well.

Thanks again all..
Chuck



.

 

[rcrcomputing]

I'm not sure what you said here?

There are allot of homes, millions, that have 16ft garage door openings made of two 2x12's with plywood sandwiched between them. I've replaced them and I've put them in there myself. Now you'd have to check to see if it's code or not. The last house I built required a glu-lam beam for a garage door header, but I couldn't possibly know if that is now a universal code requirement, or just localized.

Eddie

I've seen to many garage headers that sag. I would not use 2x12's with plywood on a garage. The plywood is a last ditch effort to stiffen them while maintaining a 3 1/2" width. The engineered beams (LVL) are the practice around here and have been for quite some time.

However, his load is light and span is only 14' as I recall. That's why I suggested 2X12's plywooded would work out. Would probably work without the plywood.
While it's hard to calculate headers, they are the last thing I'd want to wonder about sagging.

As for the original poster, remember this, wood on top of wood when your building is generally best. Saw the posts and put your beam on top of that.