Needing some advice building a lean-to.

[Chuck K.]

I will soon be building a 12x'x24'x9' high (at lowest eve) lean-to for storing tractor implements, riding mower, lawn tools etc.. Using treated 4x6s (~1.5 bags of sackcrete per beam) on 6 foot centers with 3 equally spaced horizontal 2x6's to attach the metal sheeting to. A 10'x12' section of the south end of the lean-to will have a 5-1/2" cement slab and will be enclosed for the air compressor and water well holding tank..

Just ordered my Leinbach PHD with a 12" auger last night after doing my home work on the forum, I am too old and out of shape to hand dig that many holes that big

I am close to the gulf coast so wind is a factor in the layout, due to my lack of building knowledge I tend to overbuild like 200' rebar in 8'x8'x3.5" slab for the wind mill) The lean-to would be sheltered for the most part from the strong south winds by the 40x60 shop.

I chose this dimension because of all the salvaged lumber I have from demo'ing a 12'x24" covered porch.

Is 4x6's on 6 centers adequate? I hope to get them ~3 in the ground. Attached is some simple drawings I did while bored at work..

Thanks for any input.. Chuck


View attachment 100809

 

[Gittyup]

I just built a leanto that is 16 x 35 x 9. I used 6 x 6 posts set onto poured concrete piers, set 6' apart. I used 2 x 10's on 16" centers for the rafters and 2 x 8's for purlins spaced at 2' apart. I used double 2 x 12's to support the rafters on the posts. I double strapped the rafters to the header.

Depending on the slope and size of your headers, you can space your posts further apart, say 8' or so. You might want to add diagonal supports from each post to the header/roof line, especially if space 8' apart. Also, closing the cable ends into triangles will greatly reduce the wind load and will give it a more finished look.


There are span tables for rafters, and wind loading data available on the web. Just do a search for them.

 

[Erik_in_Hoyt]

10 years back I built a 24X48 pole barn.
10' sidewalls, stuck the poles into 4' deep holes.
6x6 posts were all on 8' centers, as were the trusses, also tied the bottoms of the trusses together with a couple of 2x4s to limit flex.
2x4 girts on 2' centers dropped between the rafters using joist hangers
2x4 purlins in 2 foot centers going up the wall.
tied the trusses directly to the posts, but still did a doubled 2x6 header.

it's handled several storms with winds in the 65-75 mph range with nothing but a hum.

since you're not going to have much snow load, you could probably get away with a 1 or 2 pitch roof, where the high side is 1 or 2 feet higher than the back wall. 4x6 should also be plenty for the posts - just make sure you have good cross bracingat the top outside cerners. (closing in one end will help a LOT with this)

good luck!

 

[Chuck K.]

Thanks guys.. Just to clarify things purlins are the horizontal boards that the siding is attached to? Girts are the vertical boards in between the 4x6s??

Really dumb questions but the largest thing I have built in the past is a deer stand or 2..

Chuck

 

[Erik_in_Hoyt]

Thanks guys.. Just to clarify things purlins are the horizontal boards that the siding is attached to? Girts are the vertical boards in between the 4x6s??

Really dumb questions but the largest thing I have built in the past is a deer stand or 2..

Chuck

you got it - and don't feel dumb it took me a while to keep em straight, too!

 

[bjcsc]

That's a lot of work to keep 3 implements out of the weather. If you leave the back wall out you can get at it from both sides and get up to 7. Why does it need to be 12' deep?

 

[Chuck K.]

That's a lot of work to keep 3 implements out of the weather. If you leave the back wall out you can get at it from both sides and get up to 7. Why does it need to be 12' deep?

More than 3 implements, a 6' cutter, 6' box blade, 9' backhoe, pallet forks, and post hole digger, Snapper 48" cut ZTR, push mower, weed eater, shovels, etc, etc. all the stuff that clutters a shop. The south end will be enclosed for a large air compressor and 220 gallon water well holding tank.

I salvaged a lot of treated 12' long 2'x6's and 12' long metal siding used for roofing from a big porch that was attached to my folks mobile home. My thought was if i used the same dimensions it would be less labor.

 

[bjcsc]

More than 3 implements, a 6' cutter, 6' box blade, 9' backhoe, pallet forks, and post hole digger, Snapper 48" cut ZTR, push mower, weed eater, shovels, etc, etc.

I figured... My point wasn't that you only had three implements but that you will only be able to store three implements. You'll have three 6' bays. Unless you plan on moving whatever is in the front every time, only 3 will fit, right? How will a 6' BB and 6' cutter fit in between 4x6s on 6' centers?

 

[Chuck K.]

I figured... My point wasn't that you only had three implements but that you will only be able to store three implements. You'll have three 6' bays. Unless you plan on moving whatever is in the front every time, only 3 will fit, right? How will a 6' BB and 6' cutter fit in between 4x6s on 6' centers?

I see.... I can not draw in 3-D so its hard for me to properly illustrate which side of the shed is which

I will have a 14' wide opening that is 12' deep where the larger implements will be stored and to the right of that opening will be a 10'wide by 12 deep enclosed area.. The 4x6's on 6' centers would be on the back wall..

The drawing below is the entrance to the 14' opening... Sorry I cannot draw any better with my limited computing skills And yes I will probably have to set some implements in front of others to fit it all in such a small area

 

[bjcsc]

OK. Now I see. That'll be a nice building. I wonder if anyone has ever stacked implements. I have often thought of building a shed of similar design with a heavy duty shelf at half height to store implements on. They would be on pallets, and I would use my forks (I see you have some also) to pull down things I use less often while heavy use items are stored at ground level. Anyway, looks good and you certainly can't beat the material costs...sorry for the confusion...

 

[cjcocn]

Chuck

Nice project. I will be building a new shed near my old barn (now my hunting shack) and will be building a similar lean-to in between the two buildings.

One question on your header that bridges the 14' gap on the front of your lean-to: have you made allowances for a stronger header on that side to adequately carry the weight of 14' of roof?

I am thinking of using 2x10s on that side and doubling them up to give me the added support. There will be a gap between the bottom of my header and the bottom of my 2x6 rafters, but I plan on nailing on a 2x4 to bridge the gap so that my rafters get a little more support (even though I will use those metal hangers as well).

I would draw you a picture, buy my skills in that area are really, really bad.

 

[Chuck K.]

Chuck

Nice project. I will be building a new shed near my old barn (now my hunting shack) and will be building a similar lean-to in between the two buildings.

One question on your header that bridges the 14' gap on the front of your lean-to: have you made allowances for a stronger header on that side to adequately carry the weight of 14' of roof?I am thinking of using 2x10s on that side and doubling them up to give me the added support. There will be a gap between the bottom of my header and the bottom of my 2x6 rafters, but I plan on nailing on a 2x4 to bridge the gap so that my rafters get a little more support (even though I will use those metal hangers as well).

I would draw you a picture, buy my skills in that area are really, really bad.

That is one thing I am still looking into. I have heard of making a beam using two boards with plywood in between, I believe some refer to it as a lamenated beam?.. I think 2 2"x10" would be a good starting point.. still looking for ideas..

 

[MarkV]

That is one thing I am still looking into. I have heard of making a beam using two boards with plywood in between, I believe some refer to it as a lamenated beam?.. I think 2 2"x10" would be a good starting point.. still looking for ideas..

Chuck, a beam built with 1/2 ply in the center is pretty standard in house construction. The ply is added not so much for strength but to bring the beam width to 3½ inches which matchs a 2x4. That way it is the same width as the rest of a wall when put above a door or window as a header. In your case I would not consider it necessary.

You do need something larger than a 2x6 to span your 14 opening and carry the weight of the roof. Two 2x10's should be fine for the light weight roof you will install on the shed. An easy way to mount the beam is to set one 2x10 on each side of your vertical post and use carriage bolts drilled through. For your project the beam does not have to be one solid piece. On the back of the shed you should be able to use your 2x6's in the same manner with posts every 6'.

I was not clear on your plan for the roof itself. What you would normally see is rafters set on top of your beams and run from front to back. Six foot spacing would land the rafter on top of your back posts which would be very strong. To attach the metal roofing purlins, 2x4's laid on the flat, are run on top of and perpendicular to the rafters on 2' centers.

MarkV

 

[EddieWalker]

I will soon be building a 12x'x24'x9' high (at lowest eve) lean-to ...

Is 4x6's on 6 centers adequate? I hope to get them ~3 in the ground.

Chuck,

The 4x6 posts are easily strong enough for 12 foot centers. What is important is the strength of your headers. At a 6 foot span, you won't have any issues with 2x6's doubled up. I always rip a sheet of half inch plywood and put it between my lumber when creating headers. The plywood eliminates the sag that might occur over time and brings the outside dimensions to 3 1/2 inches, or the same as a framing stud. Since you will have 4x6's, I'd notch the tops to support the load and tie the header and post together. I'd also add straps from the post, across the header and onto the rafters. This is extreme overkill for most builds, but code in parts of the country too.

Eddie

 

[cjcocn]

Eddie

What kind of straps should he (we) use? Do you have a pic you can post?

Also, I'm sure that you mean that the 4x6 post should be notched, but could you clarify? I am doing a similar build and it will be my first pole-built.

PS .... sorry to barge into your thread with these questions, Chuck, but I hope that the answers will benefit us both.

Thanks!

 

[RobJ]

You can also add some construction adhesive to the header Eddie mentioned for even more strenght. Key is a metal roof, much lighter.

But I'm still confused on which side is the "to" side? Does the 14' opening side open into an existing barn? I sort of like the open side concept. You are mostly protecting them from the weather, but you can still get at them easily.

Rob

 

[RobJ]

Eddie

What kind of straps should he (we) use? Do you have a pic you can post?

Also, I'm sure that you mean that the 4x6 post should be notched, but could you clarify? I am doing a similar build and it will be my first pole-built.

PS .... sorry to barge into your thread with these questions, Chuck, but I hope that the answers will benefit us both.

Thanks!

Just a metal strap you nail on is what I think he is talking about..a wind strap.

Here you can get teh idea..
http://www.ux1.eiu.edu/~cfrlw/T2k/Unit4/straps.gif
http://www.floridadisaster.org/mitigation/rcmp/HRG/images/structural/masonry_roof_to_wall_large.jpg

Here is a weak picture of a notch. See the guy has notched out both sides of the post (which is laying down). The headers will sit on top of the notch and will bear the downward weight. The other option is to butt nail it and it's just hanging by nails, or nail the header to the outside of the post, no can do with a 3-piece header. Or use a jack stud.

http://www.yankeebarnhomes.com/constructionguide/images/clip_image002_000.jpg

Jack stud..

http://www.architectionary.com/uploads/DoorFraming/doorframing.jpg

 

[cjcocn]

Just a metal strap you nail on is what I think he is talking about..a wind strap.

Here you can get teh idea..
http://www.ux1.eiu.edu/~cfrlw/T2k/Unit4/straps.gif
http://www.floridadisaster.org/mitigation/rcmp/HRG/images/structural/masonry_roof_to_wall_large.jpg

Here is a weak picture of a notch. See the guy has notched out both sides of the post (which is laying down). The headers will sit on top of the notch and will bear the downward weight. The other option is to butt nail it and it's just hanging by nails, or nail the header to the outside of the post, no can do with a 3-piece header. Or use a jack stud.

http://www.yankeebarnhomes.com/constructionguide/images/clip_image002_000.jpg

Jack stud..

http://www.architectionary.com/uploads/DoorFraming/doorframing.jpg

RobJ

Thanks for the info. I am used to the jack/cripple/etc stud method, so every bit of info on pole-built helps!

 

[EddieWalker]

Rob covered it pretty good. Just go to the area in Home Depot or Lowes where they sell Simpson products. There will be all sorts of joist hangers, but if you look around, you will see a large variety of brackets and straps to make building stronger and easier.

A metal strap that goes down the length of a post, then across the header and ends in the rafter/truss will do mor to tie them all together then any other method. I still toe nail and if I'm not thrilled with the way my nails came out, I'll used 3 inch screws. Then after it's all together, I like to install a strap.

In the area of California where I'm from, it is code for the strap to start in the footing of the foundation and run in a continuos line up the wall and over the top of the rafter. This is for residential construction, but I forget the spacing of the straps for that. LOL

I wouldn't hang a header on the side of a post. Resting it on a jack stud would work as long as the jack stud was supported at the bottom by a footing of some kind. Never rely on a nail to suport anything. Nails are to hold things together, but not for loads.

The two options for the headers on top fo the posts are to either rest them across the top of the post and attach to the post into the end grain at the end. this us usually fine in most situations, but remember that fasteners into end grain are not as strong as through the side of wood.

The other option is to cut out the top part of the post so that the header rests on top of the post, but you can also fasten it to the side of the post that continues up the side of the header. Kind of like the letter "L" is removed from the top of the post. Does this make sense?

Eddie

 

[fishpick]

I'm reading this - and is the sugggestion here that 2 - 2x10's can carry a 14' span of roof?
What about snow?