Need wooden shelving ideas for basement

[sixdogs]

We need to build some inexpensive wooden shelving for the basement just to make sure everything is off the ground in the unlikely event of water.
I already have metal shelving but my wife keeps dragging stuff in that either has to go or I have to get off the ground. Guess which.
In the past I have built expensive and nice shelving and know how to do that but now want to
build something inexpensive out of maybe strapping or ripped plywood or whatever. I do not know how to do this and it doesn't search well.
Most of the on-line plans are overly complex for the less-expensive shelving I envision. I have nail guns and glue and can rip, chop or saw things on command.
Any ideas with some plans would be helpful. Thanks.

 

[s78wingrider]

Draw what you want, to a scale, on paper. Best way yo get started :thumbsup::confused2:

 

[skipmarcy]

When I'm needing non-fancy shelving for my garage or shed I just use the metal "L" brackets you get at Lowes or Home Depot and then use some simple SPF boards in the width I need. Those brackets aren't expensive, the wood will be the most costly item and if you use thick enough plywood and/or enough brackets you can get rid of some of your scrap for shelves. I've even painted those brackets so they would blend in a little better in my garage - I already had some gray ones and wanted them brown. If you're equipped for building nice shelving/cabinets, you could use your Kreg jig(s) and screw a shelving assembly together out of scraps and then mount that on the wall as a unit. If you're having to mount any of this to a concrete block wall instead of a framed wall, I've used the plastic wall anchors in concrete blocks before with good results, even though they're really for drywall. You'll have to drill the holes in the "L" brackets a little bigger for the screws to fit thru and into the anchor but it will work. Good luck with whatever you do with it.

 

[Craig Clayton]

You could make up a vertical ladder type of support from 2x3 " or 2x4 " for the ends. Simple cleat construction and 2x4" for the horizontials. I would max span them at 6'. A piece of 1x3" diagonal support. This is very simple but strong. To cover the shelves use 1x3" between the 2x4".
Craig Clayton

 

[/pine]

garage shelving ideas - Google Search

If you want something more elegant query something like "smart shelves"

 

[tornadowatchranch]

I used 8' 2 x 3 got them at lowes.. HD doesn't stock them. 1 on each side and then cut some 21" long to make a ladder. 5 cross braces per peice. This would make it 2' by 8'. Then I had some scrap 1/4 plywood that I ripped the long way. each plywood gave me 2 shelves. I used the framing nailer to build the ladder and finish to attach the plywood. I did all this on the floor. Then with a helper I held up the first piece to the wall and framing nailed into the studs behind. I then used a vertical 2 x 4 at the front to support the front. Level as you go. I used 2 e x 4s per 8' shelf. I start at the bottom and work up. Good luck. I can snap some pics sunday if you are interested.

I have this style in the garage, basement, barn, tack room. When it was time to move last time they were easy to take down and moved the intact shelves to this house.

the wind

 

[boggen]

building my mom some shelves.

2x4 construction, with 4' by 8' 1/2" plywood

6 2x4 legs. (one on each corner then one in each center)

then each shelf. using a 4'x8' plywood. will require 2 8' 2x4's and 3 4' 2x4's ((i say 4' long but it will be like 3' 9" or ughs 3' 7" lengths i think that is right gotta double check width of a 2x4)

for the heavy shelves like the bottom shelfs. i will stand the 2x4's on edge. but for the upper shelfs that may only be 6" to 10" high. for the smaller light stuff. the 2x4's will be laid down flat. to get a little extra room.

i am just going to be using 1 1/4" screws for ply wood. and 2 1/2" to 3" screws for all the 2x4's.

=====================
4x8 shelves are rather big and basicly require you have access to both sides of the shelves.

i will be building some 2' by 8' shelves. and will most likely use same building techniques.

granted how i am building = less cuting of everything. but i could notch out corners of plywood. so i could put the 6 legs on the inside vs outside of the shelving. so i could have better support. but i could care less about that.

for basement, i would opt to get some paver bricks, and put under each leg. it raises the ends of the 2x4's up a little. and if there is a little water that ends up on the floor. there is less likely the 2x4's will rot up and got moldy on you.

that and having a couple inches off the floor. can allow you to get a shop vac hose up under them. to clean stuff out.

========================
if you are not looking for full shelving from floor to ceiling. and just want a shelf or perhaps 2 shelfs near the ceiling. and you have either concrete block walls, concrete poured walls, or regual 2x4 or 2x6 stud walls for the interrior walls of the house/basement you can due some diagranal bracing and keep from having any legs going down to the floor. which result in saying placing a deep freeze below the shelfs or a coach or what ever else you might want to have below the shelfs.

 

[DAY]

If you live in "suburbia", make it a habit to drive around back of the mall(s) You will be amazed at what winds up in the dumpsters. I've brought home steel shelving, 2x4's, plywood, carpeting, florescent fixtures, etc. Most national chain stores gut the unit and replace everything, from floor to ceiling, with their "signature" look, be it Nike, Radio Shack, or Vitamin Shoppe.

 

[DonnieP]

What I did was get a bunch of 2x4 and make some shelving.
9 pcs 2 x 4 x 10' - for shelving
6 pcs 2 x 4 x 8' - for uprights (or studs if cheaper and long enough)
2 pc 2 x 4 x 10' - for ledgers

I cut the ledgers to be 24" long.

I nailed the uprights to joists so they were 20" apart and nailed the ledgers on so there was a 3 5/8" cantilever to carry one of the 2x4s. I nailed a second pairs of uprights so they were on a joist a little less than ten feet away. I nailed another pair on a joist about half way in between. I then tacked the 2 x 4 shelves to the ledgers. There is space between the 2x4 on the shelves but most every thing will fit, especially boxes etc. I made the bottom shelve a little higher, just personal preferance. Verandah flooring would be plenty strong (as long as you don't put an engine block or the like on it). I actually carried on another ten feet so I have five pairs of uprights to get 20 feet of shelving.

I had 20 feet of room, thats why I went with ten footers, you could use a different lenghts if it works for you. Hope you can understand the drawing.

Donnie

 

[hunterridgefarm]

How about something like this? I have build several for my basement 2'x8' and 4'x8'.

 

[Duffster]

Right now I am using concrete blocks and 2x12. 2 blocks on each end and then 2 2x12s. Two more blocks and 2 more 2x12s etc.

 

[gpflepsen]

A picture's worth 1,000 words.

1x2 or 1x3 for the horizontal runners, 1/2 plywood for the shelves, 2x2 or 2x3 for the legs.

 

[sixdogs]

Wow...thanks for all the great ideas.
I have gone from nothing to a number of good ideas in one day.
Need a little time to look things over and sketch it up but thanks again for the great ideas.

 

[smiley]

For something temporary or easily changeable, I have a container with shelves down both sides and end, made from concrete blocks on end with old 12" planks on them. They are 5 high and work good.

 

[boggen]

diagram to go with my previous post.

just remember. if you measure from your armpit to your fingers. if that measurement is wider than the shelf. you are going to be a predicament. of trying to grab stuff that someone managed to get stuffed back into the shelving. witch exception you can access the shelving form both sides.

 

[Kays Supply]

If you have a Sam's club close check out the Gorilla Shelving. I hav'nt done the math , but if your time is worth anything they are hard to beat. They are steel frames and wood shelves that go together in minutes. I must have 8 or ten sets in my garage and a spare in the box just in case.

 

[Lloyd_E]

I did your project last year. I used 2x4x8' posts plus 2x4x8' for the rails -front/back and sides. I made the shelves out of the cheapest 1x6 spruce lumber I could get.

Essentially there are four posts that make up an overall stand of 2.5'deepx8'wide. The first shelve is about 8" off the floor next shelve is at 4'. Two short rails go on the side to space posts at 2.5' plus a long rail provides the 8' width. I cut the spruce to 2.5' and spaced them over the run of 8' with an inch space between them. I used 3.5" deck screw to put the 2x4's together and air nailed the spruce to them for the shelves. I have made 3 sets to date.

They hold a lot and are cheap to make. Good luck...

 

[sixdogs]

How about something like this? I have build several for my basement 2'x8' and 4'x8'.

OK--so this is the one I'm thinking the most about. I already have lots of steel shelving and just want something cheap that has little residual value should I move.
How about I make this shelving out of 1x3 strapping and glue and staple it together? Uprights on a two foot center? is simple. repetitive cuts.
The 2x4's are fine but cost is an issue. It's not that I'm cheap but this is just for light stuff i want my wife to move anyway.
Thoughts?

 

[Travelover]

I needed a bunch of 1/ 2"plywood for a project and I just watched Craigslist. Pretty soon some guy has a bunch of sheets that were dirty, but intact for $5 apiece. I brought them home and cut them to size - worked perfectly.

What ever you do don't use particle board for shelves. It will sag under its own weight. :laughing:

 

[Lloyd_E]

sixdogs...

That will work fine. You could always double up - and glue - the 1x3 strapping for the posts.

Lots of glue and nails will work...

lloyd