Need help getting rusty grade 5 bolt out of stainless steel.

[not2old]

I had the same problem with my 1990 F250 a few years back. When the auto wrecker told me it would be $15.00 for a used mirror head, I said I'd take two. Still haven't used the spare.

 

[5030]

I plan to use acetylene torch. OK?

OK, soft flame however.

 

[sixdogs]

Ok, I ran an errand and then got the torch. I was itchin' for red hot and got the bolt close to that before it budged. I was on a roll so just kept turning till it was out. No damage to the stainless bar because I kept the flame away as instructed.

Thanks for the sound advice on dealing with a bolt snapped off in stainless.

 

[NibbanaFarm]

You could have heated one, the other, or both red hot and turned it with a vice grip. Once it moves let it cool, put some penetrating oil on and it will spin out. By just heating the stud you risk it getting too soft and twisting off. Just polish the stainless after you're done. No problem. Works every time.

 

[Gord Baker]

My 1997 Ford F250 side mirror had a bracket held on with a regular steel bolt threaded into the end of a stainless steel rod and it's rusted stuck. I snapped the head off. I'm soaking the stub in PB Blaster right now and will put Kroil on it tomorrow. Any ideas how to get the bolt stub out?

I was thinking about heating the stub bolt in hopes the heat and cooling will pull the oil into the threads then and I could get a pipe wrench on the bolt stub.. Is that a good idea considering it's stainless? I wouldn't heat the stainless but it could get hot.

I could cut the stub off and drill it out but that's a lot of work and I would prefer something quicker. Any ideas how to get the rusty carbon steel bolt out of the stainless rod?




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I would heat the Stud to red hot then quench. Some penetrating oil may help. Stainless is different. Under a microscope it leaves little barbs after the threading process which lock on to whatever is put in to the hole. I have seen new threaded SS fasteners be locked so tight they would not come apart even after heating red hot. Stainless is not Hard, but it is Tough. Glad you got it out.

 

[NYlumberman]

My favorite stuck bolt trick is to use a brazing tip, because it is important to focus the heat. Heat the bolt, not the stainless, and as it approaches red quench it in water. The last time I used that trick on a neighbors truck, the bolt with his broken easyout in it, spun right out. My theory is that the rapid contraction as the bolt quickly cools shears the chemical bond created by the corrosion, but I’m just a retired millwright not a scientist.

 

[panamaguy]

As a life long welder i would say forget the idea of a heat gun. Takes to long so the heat will soak into the stud. Take your oxy, act torch with a good sized tip and have your pipe wrench ready and give to a good fast heat. You need to get the stud moving fast before it soaks up the heat

 

[Williy]

Have you tried to apply pressure and tapping ??

willy

 

[sixdogs]

Go back in the thread. I heated the stud with my torch, got it hot ASAP and twisted it out with a pipe wrench. It was over so quick the stainless barely got a blush to it and all was good.

I chased and oiled the threads, got a new bolt and wet-n-dry polished the stainless part. You'll never know anything was fixed and now I can adjust the California mirrors on my new-to-me '97 Ford diesel pickup. It's all smiles.

 

[chim]

Back in the dark ages I helped a bud with one like that. We ground the broken bolt flat, then drilled and tapped.