Need Advice on Smoothing Field

[BoylermanCT]

I have a 2 acre field that I mow weekly with my lawn tractor. It is on the bumpy side, and shakes me and my lawn mower quite a bit while mowing. I am looking at buying a zero turn mower with a top speed of 7-8 mph, but there is no way I can mow at that speed due to the bumps and ruts. So I want to smooth the field out so I can mow as close to full speed as possible.

The field has no trees or obstructions in it, has some rolling hills which I want to keep. The big catch is my septic line runs out to the far side of the field, and then branches off into the leach field. So the usual suggestion of bringing in a large grader or bulldozer or tractor / plow / harrow / disc won't work.

My plan was to use my tractor with 5' rototiller and till the field many times over a period of several weeks, and then rent a skid steer with a hydraulic rock rake to remove all of the rocks unearthed by the tiller. Then I would plant new grass, cover with hay and water as best as I can, hopefully mother nature will assist with the watering.

Will this get me the smooth yard I want? I have access to a york rake, and a drag harrow as well, not sure if these should be part of the process. I am going to call a couple of landscape companies to get estimates as well, what would be a reasonable price to pay to smooth out 2 acres? What would a landscape company use to do the job?

I am mowing the field tonight when I get home, so I will post pictures of it when I am done.

 

[jeff9366]

You do not want to repeatedly till a field to powder. After a rain it will be airless adobe brick and require years to recover.

Your topic: SMOOTHING FIELD is post 2-3 times per month on T-B-N.

Here are several hundred replies from the T-B-N archive:

LINK: Google


Others will reply but these will get you started.

 

[LD1]

If you havea thick layer of sod. tilling is not the best option. You will be left with lots of clumps of sod/dead grass that will be just as rough as before.

I have had pretty good results with discing, waiting a few days for the clumps to dry out, then running a cultipacker over it. The wait til there is some moisture in the ground and run a heavy lawn roller over it. How much moisture in the ground depends on what equipment you have to pull it with. The moister the better, but you dont want to create ruts with the tow vehicle. And by heavy roller, I am not talking a 24" diameter TSC special filled with water. I am talking one filled with sand or concrete or a heavy (large diameter) homemade one.

 

[Big Barn]

A 'reverse till' rototiller will bury the sod clumps effectively.

A big roller may get it level initially but as the clumps decompose, you will have your original problem.

Here' a pic of my roller. Approximately 3 tons total rolling weight when full of water. ABOUT 8 pounds per square inch.



Terry

 

[Piston]

Can you rent a power rake locally?

Also, why not a dozer? I'd think that would have less ground pressure than the average tractor?

 

[BoylermanCT]

Here are some pics of the field.

 

[BoylermanCT]

Can you rent a power rake locally?

Also, why not a dozer? I'd think that would have less ground pressure than the average tractor?

I can rent a harley rake for my tractor or a Bobcat, is that what you mean by power rake? How would that be different than a tiller set at a shallow depth?

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I could look at a small dozer. Would the idea be to scrape off all the existing sod? I found a Deere 450 for rent. But it is 15,000lb machine. Would a tracked Bobcat with plow work?

 

[Piston]

Yes Harley rake is a power take. I would think renting one for a Skidsteer would be the best way to go. Just taking a light skin coat and taking off the gosh spots to drop in the low spots. Going one direction (north and south) and then perpendicular (east and west) and then a third run diagonal would give you a very nice finish.

I would say a land plane would likely work well (although never used one of those myself) but you would have clumps of grass to deal with everywhere.

I think the Harley rake is your best bet.

 

[oosik]

Wellllll - the first thing I noticed was your field is sure a LOT smoother than the one I mow. And yes, when mowing my field, it does reset my kidneys. Other than adding sand to the "ruts" - I think Piston's suggestion - post #8 - using a Harley rake is about the best. Otherwise, you are going to end up with row upon row of cut sod - in great & wondrous clumps.

The experience I have with my Land Pride LPGS indicates that if you could penetrate the sod - its not going to break it up. You will end up with gnarly clumps of sod all over the field.

You need an implement that has the ability to slice the high areas and grind this material fine enough to deposit it into the ruts. My limited experience in this area says a Harley rake is about the only thing that will do this.

This assumes you do not want to start all over again. If you do, then a large rototiller - multiple passes in all directions until the sod is broken up - then some sort of leveling implement(LPGS) - finally reseeding and rolling. Or a large Harley rake.

 

[Zerk]

Ya it sure is a nice field. Myself, I woud worry about screwing it up and starting over.

Since there are no obstructions why are you getting zero turn? Though I am guessing you have other areas to cut too. Get a mower for tractor or 4 wheeler, is what I would do. But I a not a big yard ****.


I'd probably plant some trees, it looks boring.

 

[MF283]

I have 2 acres myself that was used as pasture for years, took the fence down & kept it mowed or cut hay off it, the wife got tired of the hay part & started mowing it with our GT mower.
Fast forward, bought a ZTR because i had to start taking care of mom-n-laws place(2 acres) & our 3 acre yard(now), i kept it disc for 2 years & didn't favorable results from it, about the same as OP yard. It does have some clay which is a pain & in the future will work on it again.
The ZTR sure cut down on mowing time, even slowing down on the washboard part's. I'll be keeping an eye on this thread & looking for rental Harley rakes.

Ronnie

 

[PAGUY]

Wondering if an aerator and a lawn roller used regularly would not correct the problem over time?

PAGUY

 

[Big Barn]

Wondering if an aerator and a lawn roller used regularly would not correct the problem over time?

PAGUY

OVERSEEDING (the low spots) and rolling would over time.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I also think the Harley rake would be best but I've also used two diamond tooth harrows welded together side by side. I put a large semi truck tire on top of the harrows for weight and when the soil is good and wet I drag the harrows around. The wet lets the harrows dig in and once they have been pulled over the field in several directions the worst of the ruts and bumps are gone. The results are not perfect but the method is cheap and it works.

 

[ustmd]

Ya it sure is a nice field. Myself, I woud worry about screwing it up and starting over.

Since there are no obstructions why are you getting zero turn? Though I am guessing you have other areas to cut too. Get a mower for tractor or 4 wheeler, is what I would do. But I a not a big yard ****.


I'd probably plant some trees, it looks boring.

+1. Unless you are willing to invest tons of time and money, I don't think you will ever get that field golf course smooth.

Rather than tearing it up (which will most likely just move the ruts and bumps around), I would bring in top soil and use a drag to pull over the field to help level out the high/low spots.

You also need to do a cost benefit analysis on how much time will you spend fixing the field/how much more quickly you will be able to mow vs just mowing more slowly. If it takes you 40 hours (very optimistic assumption) to improve that field so you can mow at 7 mph (vs 4 mph), you might drop your mowing time form 2 hours to 1 hour, but it will take 40 times mowing it before you break even. Will it be worth it?

 

[BoylermanCT]

Ya it sure is a nice field. Myself, I woud worry about screwing it up and starting over.

Since there are no obstructions why are you getting zero turn? Though I am guessing you have other areas to cut too. Get a mower for tractor or 4 wheeler, is what I would do. But I a not a big yard ****.

I'd probably plant some trees, it looks boring.

I was looking at getting a large finish mower for my tractor, or possible a Caroni 6' flail mower. I would spend about $2K going that route, and it would not help me mow my 2 acres of lawn - my tractor is too heavy and would create ruts. So I was trying to see if I could re-do the field for less than $2K. And I am trying to find some sugar maples to plant in the field, so we can enjoy the colors in the fall, and the grandkids can do maple syrup!

 

[BoylermanCT]

A 'reverse till' rototiller will bury the sod clumps effectively.

A big roller may get it level initially but as the clumps decompose, you will have your original problem.

Here' a pic of my roller. Approximately 3 tons total rolling weight when full of water. ABOUT 8 pounds per square inch.

View attachment 472457

Terry

What size tractor do you use to pull that beast of a roller? Realistically, how heavy of a roller could my 28hp tractor pull? The largest "lawn roller" I can find is 60x24 and weighs 1100lbs full of water. I am guessing I want more weight than that. If I were to fill that roller with cement, it would weigh 2000 lbs. Is that heavy enough, and would my tractor have an issue towing it? I know my 3 point hitch can pick it up no problem, rated for 2600 lbs. Does anyone sell a larger diameter roller than 24"?

 

[Big Barn]

What size tractor do you use to pull that beast of a roller? Realistically, how heavy of a roller could my 28hp tractor pull? The largest "lawn roller" I can find is 60x24 and weighs 1100lbs full of water. I am guessing I want more weight than that. If I were to fill that roller with cement, it would weigh 2000 lbs. Is that heavy enough, and would my tractor have an issue towing it? I know my 3 point hitch can pick it up no problem, rated for 2600 lbs. Does anyone sell a larger diameter roller than 24"?

This little 45 HP tractor will pull it okay.



I've since sold my 80HP New Holland (2wd) that used to pull that roller. It had larger 44"wide floatations tires on the rear.

Terry

 

[BoylermanCT]

If you havea thick layer of sod. tilling is not the best option. You will be left with lots of clumps of sod/dead grass that will be just as rough as before.

I have had pretty good results with discing, waiting a few days for the clumps to dry out, then running a cultipacker over it. The wait til there is some moisture in the ground and run a heavy lawn roller over it. How much moisture in the ground depends on what equipment you have to pull it with. The moister the better, but you dont want to create ruts with the tow vehicle. And by heavy roller, I am not talking a 24" diameter TSC special filled with water. I am talking one filled with sand or concrete or a heavy (large diameter) homemade one.

LD1, do you still have the 38"x48" roller? I think that is what I need. Want to sell it?!!! Or can I pay you to build a 5-6 ft wide one? I saw the post showing how you built it. Very impressive welding work.

 

[LD1]

Yes, still have it. Not for sale. And I think trying g to make o e and get it to CT would be cost prohibitive. You could likely get it done locally far cheaper