My Senior design project - a "Swamp Thing" tracked vehicle clone

ArlyA · Aug 31, 2020

Thanks for the update. Please keep us posted and why did you go with a solid return slider plate??bbb

Garauld · Sep 1, 2020

ArlyA - in the original setup, the return track had some sag between the hard HDPE support pads and the drive / take-up spools. As the track bars passed over each of the support pads, the metal bars slapped onto the plastic pads making a decent racket. I thought having a single long support would shorten the gap between the spools and the support pad thus lessening the number and severity (due to less sag) of impacts. It definitely helped. There is still some chatter but not anywhere as much. My next video should indicate this.

ArlyA · Sep 4, 2020

Thanks for posting more photos Gary. I have one concern concerning your flat support system. When the tracks come under high stress and/or wear a bit, the slack will go where your return plate starts up and then a cleat might catch your support plate..

Garauld · Sep 4, 2020

Thanks for the feedback Arly. The ends of the supports are angled down 5° for 3" to provide a ramp in case the tracks go limp. You can see them in the prior photo. I am hoping that it would be unlikely for your scenario to occur.

ArlyA · Oct 6, 2020

Any work been done on this project Gary??

Garauld · Oct 6, 2020

Update: I recently made a few changes to the rear track tensioning system. The first image shows the first design I tried using porta-power cylinders pressurized with grease to tension the tracks. It worked but I just could not keep the grease inside them and it eventually leaked past the zerk fitting threads - I decided to ditch them. Image 2 shows the new and improved 1" threaded rod system I installed to tension the tracks. No leaks! I took it out for a test spin the other day around the lower yard and the tracks stayed taut. I did start to smell hot brake pads as if some pad(s) were dragging. I will check to see if I need to back off the master cylinder push rods. I may also need to get some cooling air flowing past them like they do in NASCAR. You'll also notice the black teeth I added in the second image. Occasionally, I saw that the belts would ride up onto the spool faces - not a good thing. To keep the belts straddling the spool, I just mounted the old sprocket teeth to the spool and they seem to be guiding the belts just fine. I still get some track chatter so I plan to wrap the drive spools with 1/16" UHMW to prevent the metal-to-metal contact. I experienced some hard shifting into third gear. With 105 hp, I wonder if I really need an automatic transmission to make the shifts automatically. What if I want to start in 3rd or OD instead of 1st? In looking over the transmission control description and the associated wiring diagram, it looks like I can integrate a selector switch which would force the appropriate solenoid valve to make the selected gear change and keep it there. I could add images of the write-up and wiring if anyone wants to review/comment. More tweaks to come...