My NX6010

[MinnesotaEric]

Thanks for the comments guys.

I told my distributor, that God willing, I should have a viable product by next spring.

So far the only issue I've found with my work is that one of the soft lines needs to be lengthened two inches in order to properly "lay" right, a cosmetic issue, really.

We'll likely also offer a upper and lower grill insert kit through distribution (so you can get it straight from your local dealer) so others don't bash their grills, like I did.

 

[TSO]

My first grapple.

I made several videos, but my uploads are limited to municipal bar bandwidth, so here is one video I made bashing down trees.

LOL --- I love the maniacal laugh! And, I probably make the same noises when I knock down trees! If I may, when you get to the larger stuff, push from a higher position with the loader. The leverage will knock the tree down easier, plus expose the roots for better "total removal."

Looks like the new girl is getting some battle wounds already. I got a stick stuck in nearly the same position, hitting the fan blades on my Massey... one of my winter barn projects will hopefully address a remedy! I also got a stick stuck in the HST pedal linkage under the floorboard. Of course, I found that out AFTER a panic moment when the tractor pedal wouldn't move and I thought I actually broke something!!!

Still happy you went with the Kioti? I still enjoy the Massey, at nearly 290 hrs now ... but I still find times that I could use more HP and of course the NX6010 would be a contender if I ever upgraded.

 

[94BULLITT]

Thanks for the comments guys.

I told my distributor, that God willing, I should have a viable product by next spring.

So far the only issue I've found with my work is that one of the soft lines needs to be lengthened two inches in order to properly "lay" right, a cosmetic issue, really.

We'll likely also offer a upper and lower grill insert kit through distribution (so you can get it straight from your local dealer) so others don't bash their grills, like I did.

Nice job on the 3rd function. I like that you used steel lines, that is how they should be. I hate seeing big hoses zip tied to the loader.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

LOL --- I love the maniacal laugh! And, I probably make the same noises when I knock down trees! If I may, when you get to the larger stuff, push from a higher position with the loader. The leverage will knock the tree down easier, plus expose the roots for better "total removal."

Looks like the new girl is getting some battle wounds already. I got a stick stuck in nearly the same position, hitting the fan blades on my Massey... one of my winter barn projects will hopefully address a remedy! I also got a stick stuck in the HST pedal linkage under the floorboard. Of course, I found that out AFTER a panic moment when the tractor pedal wouldn't move and I thought I actually broke something!!!

Still happy you went with the Kioti? I still enjoy the Massey, at nearly 290 hrs now ... but I still find times that I could use more HP and of course the NX6010 would be a contender if I ever upgraded.

I'm back from my bandwidth-challenged northern holdings. :tractor:

I'm attempting to import my russian dash cam videos on my laptop right now and unless more technological failures happen (a 24" Samsung monitor just smoked when I turned on my desktop), someday, I'll have awesome Woods BB720X videos to share.

Here is what I now know about my NX6010:

Yes I'd purchase it again, but that is not to say that it couldn't do with some additional optional upgrades from the factory.

For what it is worth, in no way have I been trying to wreck anything.

And yet, I managed to

1. punch a hole into the front grill,
2. dent sheet metal my front hood (in a different place than the hole in the grill),
3. I broke two gas caps.
4. I bent both gas tank tie-down bolts.
5. I discovered that the HST pedal levers can hit the factory loader soft lines (this needs a shield shaped like a W to sort out, IMO.
6. The welds on the rear running lights on the cab need to be stronger so the brackets bend, rather than popping their welds (they look beefy). Even better, bolt-on brackets, Kioti! That way when people like myself bend the brackets on their cab, we can run over to our Kioti dealers and explain how we had to crash that Honda and buy another bracket!
7. jam my front windshield wiper. (weird happening, a 3" sapling jammed up against the glass and wiper and shoved it straight up.
8. break my right rear fender straight off (the beefy, metal mount it bolts to didn't move!). Since the beefy, metal mount of the fender seems impregnable, I'm going to try bolting or riveting on conveyor belt for the perfect crash-proof rear fender extension.
9. ripped a running light right off of its mounting bracket. The same tree tore the fender off. Bad oak tree, no diner!
10. Lose a downlink 3pt pin. This one is weird: I came up to the tractor in the morning and the lower downlink pin was missing and my 3pt was handing low on one side. I'm doing my daily grease jobs at the end of the day, and the 3pt pin wasn't missing the day before. Who steals a 3pt pin in the middle of nowhere? This does bring up an issue: none of the pins are SAE. I had to grind down a 3/4" pin in order to make it fit.
11. I also lost both mirror covers that cover where the round-stock mirror support meets the mirror itself. Yeah, I have no idea either but they both bailed on the last day of working.

I think I should make some type of gas cap guard. From the cab, I cannot see the gas cap, but after breaking two gas caps, clearly the gas cap is in the danger zone.
I took measurements so I can make out of some type of expanded sheet stock, grill guard inserts. These should be a factory option.

The first regeneration cycle came at 28 hours. As I approached the regen cycle the tractor seemed to lose some power which was then restored after the regen cycle.

The good news is that while I was away, my electronic stuff all came in so I can make my first industrial accelerator in a project box that doesn't have forty test leads running everywhere, bolt it on the next time I visit my tractor and test it out!

Land clearing wise, I got my tractor all the way out to what will become a beach someday.

Woods BB720X

The Kioti NX6010 HST easily runs a Woods BB720X. The Woods 720 is able to mulch pretty much everything I can get it to knock over. At one point I was knocking over a field of 20' tall 3-4" poplar. Really the limit of the rotary cutter was that it didn't cut low hanging limbs which prevented me from just tearing through the woods. I'm very pleased with my purchase, I just wish I had gotten a wider BrushBull.

 

[Scooby074]

Royksopp :thumbsup:

 

[k0ua]

Eric, if I may add my 2 centavos in on the technique for pushing brush, trees, rocks and unknown debris with a tractor to maximize safety of the tractor.

You have to start with going VERY slowly into the first push and watching all sides of the tractor for anything that will hang up and rip off stuff on the tractor, Dont push in more than a tractor length, and preferably not even that much, then back out and and set over less than a tracor width to the right lets say. That way your left side of the tractor is safe from damage as it is traveling in the already safely pushed corridor you just finished.

You are free to concentrate on your vulverable right side of the tractor. It is best to make little right turning movements on the right side into the unknown brush so that you do not expose more of the side of the tractor than you have to. Let the bucket take the brunt of the "exploring" in the brush not your tires and sides of the tractor. Keep doing this until you have enough pushed out that you can then turn the tractor 90 degrees and work deeper into the brush with one side or another while just watching one side and minimizing your exposure.

While just bulling on thu the woods can be great fun, a more cautious approach will minimize risk, and you will have a heck of a lot less parts to buy. Again, it is your tractor, and use it as you wish, but my approach has cleared a lot of land, at very little damage.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Eric, if I may add my 2 centavos in on the technique for pushing brush, trees, rocks and unknown debris with a tractor to maximize safety of the tractor.

You have to start with going VERY slowly into the first push and watching all sides of the tractor for anything that will hang up and rip off stuff on the tractor, Dont push in more than a tractor length, and preferably not even that much, then back out and and set over less than a tracor width to the right lets say. That way your left side of the tractor is safe from damage as it is traveling in the already safely pushed corridor you just finished.

You are free to concentrate on your vulverable right side of the tractor. It is best to make little right turning movements on the right side into the unknown brush so that you do not expose more of the side of the tractor than you have to. Let the bucket take the brunt of the "exploring" in the brush not your tires and sides of the tractor. Keep doing this until you have enough pushed out that you can then turn the tractor 90 degrees and work deeper into the brush with one side or another while just watching one side and minimizing your exposure.

While just bulling on thu the woods can be great fun, a more cautious approach will minimize risk, and you will have a heck of a lot less parts to buy. Again, it is your tractor, and use it as you wish, but my approach has cleared a lot of land, at very little damage.

Near as I can tell, the damage has all happened when pulling forward from something I backed into. That and the brush pile from piling windfalls and what not.

And then, most of the damage has come from red oak tree branches from 3-4" little oaks.

Anyway, you're right.

While I have been using Fluid Film on my driveshaft and PTO, I learned that being strong enough to take the driveshaft's weight doesn't matter. What matters is a 2' pry bar.

 

[k0ua]

Yeah, your PTO shaft is a lot longer, and doubtless weighs more than the little cutter I have. What I have heard of people doing is to suspend the PTO shaft from a strong bungee cord/cords so that it hangs about right to hit the PTO shaft, that way they can fiddle with getting the splines lined up without having to horse that weight up all the time. This makes for less "urgency" in getting the splines lined up so quickly. Then remove the bungees and make the final connection to your quick hitch. Would that work for you?

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Yeah, your PTO shaft is a lot longer, and doubtless weighs more than the little cutter I have. What I have heard of people doing is to suspend the PTO shaft from a strong bungee cord/cords so that it hangs about right to hit the PTO shaft, that way they can fiddle with getting the splines lined up without having to horse that weight up all the time. This makes for less "urgency" in getting the splines lined up so quickly. Then remove the bungees and make the final connection to your quick hitch. Would that work for you?

Lining up the splines hasn't been a problem for me so far. The problem is getting the ring that pulls back the retaining balls to pull back while pushing the driveshaft foreword while reaching around the CAT2 quick hitch.

 

[k0ua]

Lining up the splines hasn't been a problem for me so far. The problem is getting the ring that pulls back the retaining balls to pull back while pushing the driveshaft foreword while reaching around the CAT2 quick hitch.

What can I say? That design of PTO coupler sucks.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

What can I say? That design of PTO coupler sucks.

If you recall, the first time I gave up and chased down my neighbor to help. I held back the lock ring while my neighbor, Bill (not to be confused with my dog, Bill) wobbled the shaft onto the PTO. The second time, I held the coupler back with one hand while using a 2' wunderbar I got from the local Ace Hardware to pry the shaft on. I got it on my second attempt. So still not smooth, but at least I didn't need neighbor help.

On the other hand, with the quick hitch combined with the hydraulic top kit, it is easier getting the 3PT lined up than the front quick release line up. Mostly because I cannot see the alignment up front unless I open up the doors and hang way out to look.

 

[TSO]

Does the Kioti have the option to put the PTO output shaft into "neutral" so you can spin the output shaft freely?

My previous Kioti & LS tractors did not have that option, but the Massey does ... and it makes hooking up soooooooo much easier!

Granted, it might not help much in this case because your issue is accessibility, but it's one less thing to deal with.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Does the Kioti have the option to put the PTO output shaft into "neutral" so you can spin the output shaft freely?

My previous Kioti & LS tractors did not have that option, but the Massey does ... and it makes hooking up soooooooo much easier!

Granted, it might not help much in this case because your issue is accessibility, but it's one less thing to deal with.

When the PTO isn't engaged the tractor's PTO output shaft can be freely spun by hand. I suspect that as I use the PTO more and more, it will become easier to get on and off.

 

[holeycow]

it will break in and become fine. The corners are too sharp new. The shaft breaks in quickly and becomes easy to attach to. Those sliding collars are a pita. The old style button is much better to attach.

 

[fieldman12]

I have never had an issue getting this style on. I put both hand on the face of drive shaft (each side) while pulling back and just slide it on.Maybe it would help also if you straddle the shaft. Another little cheat I do is have the bush hog lifted just slightly off the ground so if the splines don't line up just right on the tractor you can spin the shaft on the bush hog just a little by hand with no issues. We have all the push button styles now on the farm but I have used in the past the style that you mention.

Lining up the splines hasn't been a problem for me so far. The problem is getting the ring that pulls back the retaining balls to pull back while pushing the driveshaft foreword while reaching around the CAT2 quick hitch.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I have never had an issue getting this style on. I put both hand on the face of drive shaft (each side) while pulling back and just slide it on.Maybe it would help also if you straddle the shaft. Another little cheat I do is have the bush hog lifted just slightly off the ground so if the splines don't line up just right on the tractor you can spin the shaft on the bush hog just a little by hand with no issues. We have all the push button styles now on the farm but I have used in the past the style that you mention.

Carrying/or bearing the weight of the shaft isn't the issue. Starting the splines isn't the issue. The issue is that I'm not small enough to sneak in behind my CAT2 quick hitch and the tractor in order to get a good purchase on the collar while also being able to wobble the shaft on far enough to get past the ball detent. Anyway, with one hand holding back the defend collar, and another hand running a pry bar, I got it on by myself.

Remember everything is new and I'm likely fighting little burs and what not.

 

[fieldman12]

I wonder if some way you could take a strap and hold your pto shaft up with it some how attached to your quick hitch? Maybe that would free your hand some to get in close to hold collar back and slide on. I see what your saying a Cat2 Hitch would be a pain hooking up a bush hog.

Carrying/or bearing the weight of the shaft isn't the issue. Starting the splines isn't the issue. The issue is that I'm not small enough to sneak in behind my CAT2 quick hitch and the tractor in order to get a good purchase on the collar while also being able to wobble the shaft on far enough to get past the ball detent. Anyway, with one hand holding back the defend collar, and another hand running a pry bar, I got it on by myself.

Remember everything is new and I'm likely fighting little burs and what not.

 

[fieldman12]

I wonder if some way you could take a strap and hold your pto shaft up with it some how attached to your quick hitch? Maybe that would free your hands some to get in close to hold collar back and slide on. I see what your saying a Cat2 Hitch would be a pain using a bush hog.

Carrying/or bearing the weight of the shaft isn't the issue. Starting the splines isn't the issue. The issue is that I'm not small enough to sneak in behind my CAT2 quick hitch and the tractor in order to get a good purchase on the collar while also being able to wobble the shaft on far enough to get past the ball detent. Anyway, with one hand holding back the defend collar, and another hand running a pry bar, I got it on by myself.

Remember everything is new and I'm likely fighting little burs and what not.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Checking in from the Nevis Muni. Land clearing continues in earnest. The latest setback is an errant tree stump reached up in a death rattle and tugged on my tractor's fuel line breaking the gas tank's feeder fuel line nipple half way off. Oddly enough the tractor continued to run and it wasn't until after I made the video below and inspected the underside of my Woods BB720X BrushBull, that I first heard my gas cap "burp" and witnessed fuel leaking fast that I scrambled to get my tractor out to a neighbor's recoverable field. Thankfully, in ten or fifteen minutes I had the tank out and confirmed the problem. Now the issue is how to fix this nipple twister.

I've never done this before, but since I'm pretty certain my tractor's gas tank is made out of polyethylene, basically a very high density wax to which nothing will stick to it, I'm trying to plastic weld for the first time. Using a Weller soldering iron, I cleaned everything off with CRC brake cleaner, stuck a shop vac hose into the filler to draw down the fumes and went to town with a bit of the gas tank I cut off from a heavy seam. I then stippled around the area to rough it up in order to get some kind of "goo" to stick and help support the nipple. After a failed attempt at trying to get Seals All gas & oil to stick, I regrouped and applied the original formula of JB Weld in order to support the fuel line nipple that I plastic welded. Given the curing time, I'll find out how well JB Weld sticks tomorrow on Tuesday.

To plastic weld, I emptied the tank and hit the filler with my shop vac to draw down the fumes.

Meanwhile, upon looking at the photos I shutter-bugged of the underside of my rotary cutter on my computer, I noticed what looks like a giant crack in my Woods BB720X's disk with less than 15 hours of use on it!

Hmm. Blades are about $120.00 a throw and the big disk is about $400.00. Son-of-a?

It was moments after I took the photo of the underside of my rotary cutter looking to find out what had caused it to lock up that I heard my gas cap "burp" and I discovered that something had gotten ahold of the gas line and half torn off the feeder fuel line nipple. The good news was that in my neighbor's side yard, the fuel tank comes out easy enough while the bad news is that I should fab a guard to better protect the fuel line.

Anyway, here is a six minute video of my driving out of my property after the Wood's rotary cutter got stuck and killed my engine.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Checking in from the Nevis Muni. Land clearing continues in earnest. The latest setback is an errant tree stump reached up in a death rattle and tugged on my tractor's fuel line breaking the gas tank's feeder fuel line nipple half way off. Oddly enough the tractor continued to run and it wasn't until after I made the video below and inspected the underside of my Woods BB720X BrushBull, that I first heard my gas cap "burp" and witnessed fuel leaking fast that I scrambled to get my tractor out to a neighbor's recoverable field. Thankfully, in ten or fifteen minutes I had the tank out and confirmed the problem. Now the issue is how to fix this nipple twister.

I've never done this before, but since I'm pretty certain my tractor's gas tank is made out of polyethylene, basically a very high density wax to which nothing will stick to it, I'm trying to plastic weld for the first time. Using a Weller soldering iron, I cleaned everything off with CRC brake cleaner, stuck a shop vac hose into the filler to draw down the fumes and went to town with a bit of the gas tank I cut off from a heavy seam. I then stippled around the area to rough it up in order to get some kind of "goo" to stick and help support the nipple. After a failed attempt at trying to get Seals All gas & oil to stick, I regrouped and applied the original formula of JB Weld in order to support the fuel line nipple that I plastic welded. Given the curing time, I'll find out how well JB Weld sticks tomorrow on Tuesday.

To plastic weld, I emptied the tank and hit the filler with my shop vac to draw down the fumes.

Meanwhile, upon looking at the photos I shutter-bugged of the underside of my rotary cutter on my computer, I noticed what looks like a giant crack in my Woods BB720X's disk with less than 15 hours of use on it!

Hmm. Blades are about $120.00 a throw and the big disk is about $400.00. Son-of-a?

It was moments after I took the photo of the underside of my rotary cutter looking to find out what had caused it to lock up that I heard my gas cap "burp" and I discovered that something had gotten ahold of the gas line and half torn off the feeder fuel line nipple. The good news was that in my neighbor's side yard, the fuel tank comes out easy enough while the bad news is that I should fab a guard to better protect the fuel line.

Anyway, here is a six minute video of my driving out of my property after the Wood's rotary cutter got stuck and killed my engine.