For what it is worth the 135/155 repair manual states the light should come on at 248f, the 220/226 and 276 manuals states the light should come on at 230f. I suspect the sensor Hoye sells for these tractors may be the same for all. Aaron might enlighten us at what temperature they are set for.
My First Real Tractor!
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4get gto
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I think the light might come on at that temp (As a warning) but don't think it's necessary suppose to run there. Since there's no thermostat whats the actual running temp suppose to be?
clemsonfor
Super Member
I would agree I would not want to see 230 for more than some short burst of really hard operation...like really loaded mowing on a long thick pass.
But that is why I would run a water pump like you and be done with it.
But that is why I would run a water pump like you and be done with it.
California
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I think the difference between 248 / 230 is thermosyphon vs water pump.
The light is a boilover warning, boilover will be a few degrees warmer than the light coming on.
Diesels are more efficient the hotter they run. I think Yanmar would have used the 230 degree sender for their thermosyphon models if they thought 248 was a problem.
In summary I think Yanmar intended their tractors to be used below warning-light temperature but anything up to that was acceptable to the designers, and 30 years use now seems to prove their choice. Of course this assumes the cooling system is maintained up to spec.
The light is a boilover warning, boilover will be a few degrees warmer than the light coming on.
Diesels are more efficient the hotter they run. I think Yanmar would have used the 230 degree sender for their thermosyphon models if they thought 248 was a problem.
In summary I think Yanmar intended their tractors to be used below warning-light temperature but anything up to that was acceptable to the designers, and 30 years use now seems to prove their choice. Of course this assumes the cooling system is maintained up to spec.
California
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Hoye has a paper gasket to fit under the triangle plate but I think many of us just slop a thin band of RTV sealer on that plate before re-installing it.
That O-ring inside separates the two sides of the filter, clean vs not filtered, but doesn't have anything to do with an external leak.
That reminds me of what I found on my 'deferred maintenance' :laughing: YM240: The guy apparently used what he had instead of the proper o-ring and it was too fat. It had partly crushed the shoulder on the 'strainer' (filter). At least it was sealed. And maybe it wasn't temperature resistant. The strainer was solidly cemented in place by that deformed, crushed O-ring so solidly that I had to destroy the filter, pull it out in pieces with Vise-Grip pliers leveraged with a crowbar, to get it out. $50+ for a new one.
There were several similar issues to resolve before I put the YM240 service but its been troublefree ever since - since 2003. Well aside from stuff I should count as my own user abuse such as tearing off the oil pressure sending wire while rasseling a downed tree. And an occasional loader hose, likewise.
That O-ring inside separates the two sides of the filter, clean vs not filtered, but doesn't have anything to do with an external leak.
That reminds me of what I found on my 'deferred maintenance' :laughing: YM240: The guy apparently used what he had instead of the proper o-ring and it was too fat. It had partly crushed the shoulder on the 'strainer' (filter). At least it was sealed. And maybe it wasn't temperature resistant. The strainer was solidly cemented in place by that deformed, crushed O-ring so solidly that I had to destroy the filter, pull it out in pieces with Vise-Grip pliers leveraged with a crowbar, to get it out. $50+ for a new one.
There were several similar issues to resolve before I put the YM240 service but its been troublefree ever since - since 2003. Well aside from stuff I should count as my own user abuse such as tearing off the oil pressure sending wire while rasseling a downed tree. And an occasional loader hose, likewise.
clemsonfor
Super Member
Yep I do like california. Clean up the joint real well and goop rtv on the joint, good black rtv or grey. Probably will stop it.
I have posted this before. If you used rtv I bet you didn't do the proper procedure either. I use to not until someone pointed it out. The wrong procedure will almost always lead to leaks . Proper way is to clean both sides well, no oil present. Clean with brake clean or other Solvent. Smear thin coat of rtv on both sides. Finger tight bolts till it's starts to squeeze out barely. LET SIT for an hour in normal temps longer if cool. Then torque to spec. Then let sit overnight to dry before filling with oil. Once I started following the actual directions it cut my leaks to almost none on everything I do now.
I am a big fan of ultra grey and black. I put it one everything on my ym2000 from the hydraulics top of the trans when I took it off to the plate for doing rear wheel seals to the brake cover when I go in there for seals or brakes. The triangle cover, you name it.
I have posted this before. If you used rtv I bet you didn't do the proper procedure either. I use to not until someone pointed it out. The wrong procedure will almost always lead to leaks . Proper way is to clean both sides well, no oil present. Clean with brake clean or other Solvent. Smear thin coat of rtv on both sides. Finger tight bolts till it's starts to squeeze out barely. LET SIT for an hour in normal temps longer if cool. Then torque to spec. Then let sit overnight to dry before filling with oil. Once I started following the actual directions it cut my leaks to almost none on everything I do now.
I am a big fan of ultra grey and black. I put it one everything on my ym2000 from the hydraulics top of the trans when I took it off to the plate for doing rear wheel seals to the brake cover when I go in there for seals or brakes. The triangle cover, you name it.
Ok great, thanks! I remember now, that when outting that back together I could only push it in so far. I had about a 1/4" that I could not get it closed all of the way (I'm talking about the tria for piece/three bolts) and had to start the bolts and pull it in the rest of the way. I thought that was the o ring sealijng inside??
clemsonfor
Super Member
There is an Oring on the very end of it if I remember right. But that seals the strainer to the intake so it can't suck dirty fluid around the strainer, that only fluid can be pulled from inside the strainer. That does not seal the fluid from the cap or outside from leaking.