My Backhoe needs and engine rebuild

[EddieWalker]

I agree that those are separate problems and I do believe that the fuel is leaking from the lift/transfer pump, not injector pump.

Now that I look at the problem again, I do agree that it is coolant into the combustion chamber. Most likely from a warped head and/or leaking head gasket. Anyway, if the diesel has been leaking into the engine and thinned the oil out, he is looking at a rebuild anyway.

I'm not familiar with a lift/transfer pump. I'll have to look that up. Hopefully it's cheaper than an injector pump!!!

For right now, I'm just in limbo waiting on the oil test kit. I'll probably drain the oil this weekend and start cleaning the engine so it's easier to work on. Maybe remove the hood so I have better access and a few other things that will be in the way that need to be removed. I also want a clearing look at everything.

 

[EddieWalker]

From the diagrams at Messicks, it looks like the block is sleeved.

New Holland #83998292 SLEEVE

SLEEVE

www.messicks.com

 

[Hay Dude]

Did you check coolant level?
Is there any drips of coolant up near the head gasket?
If you run the motor until warm, then shut down, do you hear any “bubbling” noises?

A blown head gasket can pressurize your radiator and cooling system, which will make it puke coolant.

 

[EddieWalker]

The radiator doesn't have a radiator cap. There is a plastic overfill bottle on the firewall that I add coolant to. It's always empty. I watch the temp gauge, and it never overheats, so I think it's fine, but I honestly don't know.

When I do my walk around before using it, sometimes I add water, sometimes I don't.

Usually when I add water, it drains to the ground.

 

[TractorTech]

From the diagrams at Messicks, it looks like the block is sleeved.

New Holland #83998292 SLEEVE

SLEEVE

www.messicks.com

It is not sleeved from original factory build. It is a parent bored block, no sleeves.
Those sleeves are an option, but not the best. I have had regular machine shops bore for oversized pistons or bore oversize and sleeve with a one that has no lip on top. Those shown in the parts book have a lip that needs a counterbore at the top to keep it in place.
I have had a mobile machine shop bore and sleeve in frame the same way. The bore doesn't go all the way through to the crankcase so that the sleeve is held in at the bottom and the head holds it in place at the top.
The kit you showed in the first post has options for oversized pistons too.

The coolant overflow tank has a large hose to the radiator, much like the newer pickups.

 

[TractorTech]

Lift pump just below oil fill and to the right of the battery cutoff.

 

[EddieWalker]

Thanks for the picture, that helped a lot. Is the lift pump the same thing as a manual fuel pump? I've replaced the fuel pump several times. I just never heard of a lift pump.

If that allowed fuel into the block, would it still work? Wouldn't the diaphragm have to have a crack in it to allow fuel to get past it?

 

[TractorTech]

Mechanical pump it is that. The diaphragm can leak fuel while it is pumping, but not when stopped due to pressure while working

 

[Hay Dude]

The radiator doesn't have a radiator cap. There is a plastic overfill bottle on the firewall that I add coolant to. It's always empty. I watch the temp gauge, and it never overheats, so I think it's fine, but I honestly don't know.

When I do my walk around before using it, sometimes I add water, sometimes I don't.

If the bottle is constantly empty even though you are refilling, absent a bottle or system leak, that coolant could be getting pulled into the cylinder combustion chambers.

Usually when I add water, it drains to the ground.

Then maybe your tank is cracked.

 

[ultrarunner]

Just my 2 cents from old Ford gas engines…

White smoke first under hard load is coolant and every time for me a head gasket.

Milky or engine oil like buttermilk was always a cracked block for me.