MX6000 Air Conditioning

[5030]

You need to take the roof off to access the ac on your tractor. It’s not hard. Look on the parts breakdown to identify which screws to remove it.

Actually, pretty easy to ascertain which screws need to be removed. Just unscrew one and if it's long, those are the ones to remove, if it's short, put it back in because those are the ones that secure the headliner to the ROPS frame. It will be every other long screw.

One thing to keep in mind and that is, you'll probably have to replace the perimeter gasket because when the roof is in place, it compresses it and it won't expand again. I replaced mine the first time, I believe the gasket then (with the corner pieces) was around 100 bucks and it's a dealer (Kubota part) item.

The other issue you may have is the OEM Riv-Nuts in the roof may be loose. I replaced them as well with new ones plus I 'glassed' them in for added strength.

Finally, you won't be able to remove the blower or blower housing without breaking out the AC evaporator and the heater heat exchanger is easy, the evaporator isn't. You would have to remove it which means you would have to recharge the ac system and add PAG oil.

What I did was I loosened the top blower housing and propped it up with a wood block which allowed me access to the evaporator and heater coil and I used a handheld pump sprayer with diluted Purple Power and soaked them down and then used clear water to rinse them out and flush the debris down the pan (underneath) which also flushes out the drain tubes. I rinsed it until the discharge water (from the drain tubes was clear.

Like I said, I did a thread on here or on OTT detailing the procedure. I clean mine every spring now. My seed house buddy down the road with his big JD's does the same thing every year.

When you take the top off, remove the outside filter and take a hard look at the gasket. I replace mine every year as well. If the gasket don't seal the filter completely, dirt will get in pretty quick. I used closed cell expandable foam with adhesive on one side to replace mine. Any box store will have it as well as the Reflectix.

 

[5030]

Actually, it's 134A refrigerant.

 

[pokey1416]

2nd on the rivnuts my last one at the back I was in a hurry and cross threaded. It spins so I had to take off filter and hold it with vice grips while I threaded it in. I’ll epoxy them next time roof is off. Taking it off is ok but putting those long bolts in and getting them started was a PITA.

Then I went a step further and torqued to factory specs. I think I used 34 inch lbs.

Good luck.

 

[5030]

I'm on the fence with the new design with everything under the seat because to get to anything you have to remove the seat first.

 

[5030]

I’ll epoxy them next time roof is off.

Use fiberglass mat and liquid instead. HF sells a nice Riv-Nut setter (Doyle) with an assortment of them included and you can use it to tighten the existing ones if they spin. Kubota should have used metal backers (washers) under them but didn't except on the 2 on the front.

 

[DVR]

My MX5400 cab requires cleaning of all coolers and screens about every 3-4 hours while bush hogging or running the lane shark.
The radiator genie is what I use, well worth the money.
I'm in SC and have no tint on the glass.
My tint guy doesn't really want to do it due to all the parts needing to be removed. Sounds like it will be expensive. Then I'd want the 3560 done too.

 

[5030]

A radiator Genie is way overkill for a roof air unit and will probably compromise the electrical components up there.

I use one for my under hood HX's but that is it.

All Kubota cab models come with tinted glass from the factory btw.

 

[DVR]

A radiator Genie is way overkill for a roof air unit and will probably compromise the electrical components up there.

I use one for my under hood HX's but that is it.

All Kubota cab models come with tinted glass from the factory btw.

Should have clarified- I'm speaking of under the hood coolers.
I'm aware there is some level of tint to the factory glass.

So, I'll excuse myself and you can pick someone else's post apart.

 

[dgriff23@cox.net]

Yep. It is up there temp wise. And I am breaking a sweat in the cab.. and I am not in full sun all the time. Just does not feel cold coming out of the vents...and the water dripping down the right side window tells me something is plugged....

Stick a thermometer in the air stream as close to the fan coil as possible. If it is 55 to 60 degrees it's doing all it can. Remember that heat goes to cold so mother nature trying to heat that air up as fast as possible. You probably have more heat coming in than your rig can handle.

 

[riptides]

Stick a thermometer in the air stream as close to the fan coil as possible. If it is 55 to 60 degrees it's doing all it can. Remember that heat goes to cold so mother nature trying to heat that air up as fast as possible. You probably have more heat coming in than your rig can handle.

Well, others have said they can get frigid in their tractors. And, two other things, the first year I had this machine, I don't recall breaking a sweat, ever. The other thing, I have water coming down the glass, and wife reported the right side headliner, upper right back, is wet. Something is not draining right.

Looking at the drains, left side is dripping at a greater rate than right side. A much noticeable rate.

 

[2manyrocks]

I'm wondering if you could lift the top off enough to see what is happening with a pair of bicycle hoists after breaking the seal by hand?

 

[riptides]

I'm wondering if you could lift the top off enough to see what is happening with a pair of bicycle hoists after breaking the seal by hand?

Well....good idea. But no time to do it...heck have not even called dealer. Kind of on overload for the next week or so.

 

[dusty3030]

It really shouldn't be stuck as new as a tractor as that is. It isn't that big of a deal to lift off the top, you really should do it and clean under there occasionally. You shouldn't have to buy a new seal either it should seal back down.

 

[riptides]

It really shouldn't be stuck as new as a tractor as that is. It isn't that big of a deal to lift off the top, you really should do it and clean under there occasionally. You shouldn't have to buy a new seal either it should seal back down.

Ok...I will start looking at screws and whatnot. Lol. Thanks.

 

[5030]

It really shouldn't be stuck as new as a tractor as that is. It isn't that big of a deal to lift off the top, you really should do it and clean under there occasionally. You shouldn't have to buy a new seal either it should seal back down.

I replaced mine because it had some cracks in it. Not that much, around a c note

 

[5030]

I'm wondering if you could lift the top off enough to see what is happening with a pair of bicycle hoists after breaking the seal by hand?

The seal only has adhesive on the bottom where it adheres to the ROPS structure.

 

[grsthegreat]

Stick a thermometer in the air stream as close to the fan coil as possible. If it is 55 to 60 degrees it's doing all it can. Remember that heat goes to cold so mother nature trying to heat that air up as fast as possible. You probably have more heat coming in than your rig can handle.

Idont agree. Just to test, i placed my temp probe outdoors, in the middle of the cab, and i side air duct. First is outside temp.

next is mid cabin temp. Tractor is in sun and its hot today. Airs been running for about an hour, but continually opening and closing door to enter and exit to move firewood

now placing temp probe inside ducts

now, i dont know how kubota ac units relate to kioti, but mines a 2010 unit, never been recharged, 1400 hours.

 

[pokey1416]

Use fiberglass mat and liquid instead. HF sells a nice Riv-Nut setter (Doyle) with an assortment of them included and you can use it to tighten the existing ones if they spin. Kubota should have used metal backers (washers) under them but didn't except on the 2 on the front.

Next time you have your roof off will you take a pic for us?

 

[5030]

Think I have at least one... Note the condition of the gasket and why I replaced it.... Also note how I used fiberglass to really secure the Riv Nuts and eliminate the cracking.

You can also see the 2 front Riv Nuts have aluminum backers whereas the rest don't.

 

[5030]

You don't even want to know how much a replacement roof is either. Lets just say north of a grand. Why I reworked mine.....