Moving Cordwood

   / Moving Cordwood
  • Thread Starter
#21  
I have a Kubota B2710 which I love, but here's my problem. My logger dropped a grapple load of wood in front of my garage (the only place he could) so it's difficult to get the cars in/out, and it will be impossible to plow next year. It's at least 3 years worth of wood, so I need to move at least 2/3 of the pile before Fall. So far, I've been doing this by cutting each log in half and I chain each "half-log" to the bucket, and move it to the back yard where it's out of the way. This often involves climbing onto the wood pile to unhook the chains. As you can imagine, this is only marginally safer than Alaskan crab fishing.
My dealer quoted me on a L2501HST tractor with an LA525 loader with "quick release" attachment function, and a Land Pride grapple. With the grapple, I can keep the tractor between me and the wood. Much safer.
It's more than I want to spend, but I also don't want to be maimed or killed because I was too cheap to buy the right equipment.
Does anyone have any experience with this kind of work, or the L2501 (or Lx2501) tractor? I like the "quick-release" attachment idea, but I'm afraid of trading "down" from my B2710. Not sure if the engineering is better, or whether they just made it lighter-duty to cut costs.
Any thoughts/ideas/suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Dave.
THANK YOU to all the good folks for the great suggestions. I will look for a grapple attachment, or some sort of brush forks or tongs to fit my bucket. Much cheaper than trading my tractor buddy.
 
   / Moving Cordwood #22  
As mentioned a set of forks is the easiest. Don't pile them so high that you need to worry about getting a lap dance.
 
   / Moving Cordwood #23  
They'd have to replace my entire FEL, and probably modify the tractor mounts. Not cost-effective for a tractor this old. I'd love it if it could be done though. Quick release attachments are the way to go.
Now... not cheap but cheaper than a new Front End Loader: a bit over a grand plus a plate for your old bucket.


I think if you look, there might be a Pin On grapple out there...
 
   / Moving Cordwood #24  
Figuring things out is part of the excitement.

Had an MF135 with trip manure bucket. No power steering. Used that for all kinds of stuff from moving pallets, hay. Manure, brush, fencing, logs. When I first got a tractor with a bucket it was about worthless in comparison. Bucket forks and later ssqa sure made a difference. Can justify attachment cost because getting labor help is nearly impossible.
 
   / Moving Cordwood #25  
I have a Kubota B2710 which I love, but here's my problem. My logger dropped a grapple load of wood in front of my garage (the only place he could) so it's difficult to get the cars in/out, and it will be impossible to plow next year. It's at least 3 years worth of wood, so I need to move at least 2/3 of the pile before Fall. So far, I've been doing this by cutting each log in half and I chain each "half-log" to the bucket, and move it to the back yard where it's out of the way. This often involves climbing onto the wood pile to unhook the chains. As you can imagine, this is only marginally safer than Alaskan crab fishing.
My dealer quoted me on a L2501HST tractor with an LA525 loader with "quick release" attachment function, and a Land Pride grapple. With the grapple, I can keep the tractor between me and the wood. Much safer.
It's more than I want to spend, but I also don't want to be maimed or killed because I was too cheap to buy the right equipment.
Does anyone have any experience with this kind of work, or the L2501 (or Lx2501) tractor? I like the "quick-release" attachment idea, but I'm afraid of trading "down" from my B2710. Not sure if the engineering is better, or whether they just made it lighter-duty to cut costs.
Any thoughts/ideas/suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Dave.
View attachment 696855View attachment 696856View attachment 696857
How long is the log on your bucket? And how long a log do you need for your purposes?
If Slowpoke Slim's suggestions are impractical, I suggest bucking the logs into lengths short enough to fit into your bucket. You will have to process the logs for firewood anyway. Moving the shorter logs may require more trips, but the shorter logs will not be as unwieldy and will be safer.
This seems to me the most obvious solution if you will be using lengths even bucket width. It looks like each log would only require 3 cuts to fit in the bucket. Then using muscle put the 4 pieces in the bucket and take them around back. You might have to make more trips, but that would not cost much.
And unless you NEED full length logs you have to cut them up sometime.
I would (and did) buy a pair of clamp-on-the-bucket forks for moving logs. They were a little over $100 10 years ago.
But I want my logs 10' long for my sawmill.
 
   / Moving Cordwood #26  
They'd have to replace my entire FEL, and probably modify the tractor mounts. Not cost-effective for a tractor this old. I'd love it if it could be done though. Quick release attachments are the way to go.
You can do it, but it could be pricier than I thought.https://asktractormike.com/kubota-quick-attach-replacement-plates/

Another, WO prices Attachments Using Quick Attach System
 
   / Moving Cordwood #27  
How did you get the "back fence" on the bucket? I like the idea of logs not ending up in my lap. But with those tongs, the log would want to go parallel with the tractor.(?)
I used 1/2" x 2" flat stock drill 2 holes used 3/8" bolts.
2 - 1/4" x 12" plate for protection of piston.

True sometimes the log will swivel but not often if log against bucket,if in tight area tilt bucket just enough to pass object.
 

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   / Moving Cordwood #28  
Nice job Thomas - I like that a lot.

gg
 
   / Moving Cordwood #29  
Post #23 mentions WR Long. They are the best and custom make the quick attach to fit your tractor model. I did this with my old Ford 1920 and they were great to work with! Remove your old bucket and pin on new quick attach bracket to the loader arms. You do need to cut the tabs off the bucket and well on a new backplate

Pallet forks are the most useful attachment to have and not too expensive at that.
You can easily lift the logs and make pallets to hold split wood
Long term solution convert bucket to quick attack
Short term you can move the logs easily with a short chain like in pics below
 

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   / Moving Cordwood #31  
Seven years ago I bought a Land Pride grapple and WR Long third function valve. Dealer installed. The Kubota M6040 has the quick attach system on the FEL. I've never removed the grapple. Large logs, large rocks and large bites of soil - all handled well and efficiently.
IMG_0011.jpeg
 
   / Moving Cordwood #32  
I have a Kubota B2710 which I love, but here's my problem. My logger dropped a grapple load of wood in front of my garage (the only place he could) so it's difficult to get the cars in/out, and it will be impossible to plow next year. It's at least 3 years worth of wood, so I need to move at least 2/3 of the pile before Fall. So far, I've been doing this by cutting each log in half and I chain each "half-log" to the bucket, and move it to the back yard where it's out of the way. This often involves climbing onto the wood pile to unhook the chains. As you can imagine, this is only marginally safer than Alaskan crab fishing.
My dealer quoted me on a L2501HST tractor with an LA525 loader with "quick release" attachment function, and a Land Pride grapple. With the grapple, I can keep the tractor between me and the wood. Much safer.
It's more than I want to spend, but I also don't want to be maimed or killed because I was too cheap to buy the right equipment.
Does anyone have any experience with this kind of work, or the L2501 (or Lx2501) tractor? I like the "quick-release" attachment idea, but I'm afraid of trading "down" from my B2710. Not sure if the engineering is better, or whether they just made it lighter-duty to cut costs.
Any thoughts/ideas/suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Dave.
View attachment 696855View attachment 696856View attachment 696857
Get a set of " Forks" . You won't regret it. I use my forks almost as often as my bucket.
Forks will also allow you to hold the log up while cutting.
 
   / Moving Cordwood #33  
I have to say, I would trade down from a tractor I like for what you describe. Sounds as though you already have a means of securing a chain to your bucket, so cheapest route to me would be a set of good ‘clamp-on’ pallet forks. I would want a set I could support with added chains to transfer some of the weight off the bucket cutting edge. Then use chains to secure the logs as needed for transport (use a chain binder to be able to release pressure on the chain). No you will not have the capacity of a set of pallet forks, but handle that with your load size.
Personally, I would be ticked at anyone that dropped a load blocking my access in and out of my garage and would let him know about. If you gave him the okay, then rephrase where its in you not him.
 
   / Moving Cordwood #34  
I am well pleased with my 48" Thumb from Greens-Machine.com:
IMG_8778.JPG

IMG_8781.JPG
 
   / Moving Cordwood #35  
Just a quick comment about tractor-safety when using your bucket and tongs to move logs... If you need to move that bucket "high" in order to stack the log (or even to just move it), you end up with the pull point being rather high with respect to the tractor center of gravity. If that log is hanging from a chain, and it swings a bit from side to side, the effect is worse. A sudden turn or change in slope can find you putting that tractor on its side in a heartbeat.

Even with a grapple or pallet forks, you do need to be aware of these issues, but suspending the load on a chain that can swing multiplies the dangers. Do be careful.
 
   / Moving Cordwood #36  
Just a quick comment about tractor-safety when using your bucket and tongs to move logs... If you need to move that bucket "high" in order to stack the log (or even to just move it), you end up with the pull point being rather high with respect to the tractor center of gravity. If that log is hanging from a chain, and it swings a bit from side to side, the effect is worse. A sudden turn or change in slope can find you putting that tractor on its side in a heartbeat.

Even with a grapple or pallet forks, you do need to be aware of these issues, but suspending the load on a chain that can swing multiplies the dangers. Do be careful.

Before I had a grapple, I had to use tongs. I always lowered the load to as close to the ground as possible when moving. But I was not stacking logs very high. If I had to stack logs with a tong ,I would set up ratchet straps from the tong to each side of the bucket to minimize swaying left to right.
 
   / Moving Cordwood #37  
I have a Kubota B2710 which I love, but here's my problem. My logger dropped a grapple load of wood in front of my garage (the only place he could) so it's difficult to get the cars in/out, and it will be impossible to plow next year. It's at least 3 years worth of wood, so I need to move at least 2/3 of the pile before Fall. So far, I've been doing this by cutting each log in half and I chain each "half-log" to the bucket, and move it to the back yard where it's out of the way. This often involves climbing onto the wood pile to unhook the chains. As you can imagine, this is only marginally safer than Alaskan crab fishing.
My dealer quoted me on a L2501HST tractor with an LA525 loader with "quick release" attachment function, and a Land Pride grapple. With the grapple, I can keep the tractor between me and the wood. Much safer.
It's more than I want to spend, but I also don't want to be maimed or killed because I was too cheap to buy the right equipment.
Does anyone have any experience with this kind of work, or the L2501 (or Lx2501) tractor? I like the "quick-release" attachment idea, but I'm afraid of trading "down" from my B2710. Not sure if the engineering is better, or whether they just made it lighter-duty to cut costs.
Any thoughts/ideas/suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Dave.
View attachment 696855View attachment 696856View attachment 696857


Bucket Tusks!

There are lots of pics on the net. I made mine from 2X2 heavy wall square tube. Two bolts through the bucket sides. Stick out about 20 inches from the bucket lip

Had to move the pile just last year. Would carry two smaller diameter logs. But mostly it was one at a time (Front axle load , tire squish, FEL lift capacity etc. )
Work well for picking out logs from the pile and serving as a chunking lift. No scrambling over the pile with a running chainsaw ;-)

Pallet forks are way too long... But I have em; for pallets ;-)
 
   / Moving Cordwood #38  
Easy job with pallet forks and can use them for many other jobs to,
Plus, you will use forks for a zillion other uses. Buy an adapter to go from JD pin hookup to SSQA and you can buy a SSQA set of forks that will sell in a heartbeat when/if you decide to sell. Forks are very handy.
 
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   / Moving Cordwood #39  
832E951F-E5BA-4642-9B8C-0658AE505D97.jpeg
I have forks and a grapple. I prefer the grapple for firewood. Don’t forget about back ballast when lifting big loads. My tires are filled and I put my 900 pound flail mower on when lifting logs or boulders.
 
   / Moving Cordwood #40  
Don’t think you need a new tractor.
Use anything... besides the way you’re doing it now. Tonga, clamp or chain on (to bucket) pallet forks, pallet forks with their own quick connect frame, pallet forks with hydraulic thumb added on, full blown grapple.

The way your doing it now is asking for trouble when logs start to roll and you’re on the pile. It’s hard to lift 3 logs off your leg when it’s twisted backwards.

Lifting with just the bucket there is a danger of lifting FEL too high and log rolls over top of bucket and down loader arms onto operator’s lap. This happens a lot.
 

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