Mounting on bucket.

[RidgeHiker]

I tried to find out in Attachments what was common but I will try to ask my question here a different way.
I am going to modify a snowplow to mount onto the bucket. The typical approach where the bottom of the bucket (the meat) is sandwiched between 2 mounts (the bread) with the plow held in place by chains/binders or ratchet straps.
The question is how much play should I leave between the 2 lips. Seems like too little space and it will be hard to slip in with the bucket. Too much and it may be loose or put odd forces on the lower bucket. I have never had or done anything like this. Any thoughts?

 

[Notforhire]

Most of the plow to bucket mounts I have seen are nothing but tabs welded to the bottom of the bucket. The arms of the snow plow mount are pinned in. The tabs are small enough that they don't interfere with the use of the bucket. Sometimes people bolt them in and remove them in the spring.
I take it that you don't have a quick attach bucket.

Bill

 

[GolfAddict]

I'm having a guy weld up a bracket for me to use on the bucket and attach a plow to that. For the tabs where the bottom of the bucket will slip in I'm having him weld the tabs at about a 30 degree angle. I'm thinking it will be easy to move the bucket onto the frame by driving forward into it and when I ratchet the bracket onto the bucket it will tighten up into that wedge opening.
/ _____
/_____ instead of |_____

with a steeper angle than that of course. Might be something to consider...

 

[RidgeHiker]

Most of the plow to bucket mounts I have seen are nothing but tabs welded to the bottom of the bucket. The arms of the snow plow mount are pinned in. The tabs are small enough that they don't interfere with the use of the bucket. Sometimes people bolt them in and remove them in the spring.
I take it that you don't have a quick attach bucket.

Bill

You are correct, I do not have a quick attach bucket. I will need to be able to use the bucket frequently to remove the large berms on the road which can get up to 6+ feet and move snow when I start running out of push room.

 

[RidgeHiker]

I'm having a guy weld up a bracket for me to use on the bucket and attach a plow to that. For the tabs where the bottom of the bucket will slip in I'm having him weld the tabs at about a 30 degree angle. I'm thinking it will be easy to move the bucket onto the frame by driving forward into it and when I ratchet the bracket onto the bucket it will tighten up into that wedge opening.
/ _____
/_____ instead of |_____

with a steeper angle than that of course. Might be something to consider...

That sounds like a good idea.

Are you going to use chains and binders to cinch it up?

 

[GolfAddict]

I was planning to use ratchet straps. I'm having a chain link welded onto the top of the angled tabs, and another pair back on the bracket frame behind where the loader bucket ends. I'll strap from the link on the tabs up across the bucket to the bucket lip in back. From the pair in back also up to the bucket back, so the bracket frame will be strapped solidly to the bottom of the bucket.

I guess if it doesn't hold tightly enough with ratchet straps I may have to go to chains/binders, but think straps should be enough.

 

[Thomas]

I've useing this type setup since 1995..yet to have problem.
Pull one pin plow free from bucket.

 

[Notforhire]

Thomas has the set up that I was trying to describe to you.
Your most likely in too deep to change now, but I do recommend putting in a QA system. I had a pin on bucket and converted it. Cost was $550 for the attachment system from NH, and $130 for the plate delivered. It is an expensive conversion but is well worthwhile. I have four attachments that I can change out in minutes. I am thinking of doing a snow plow set up, that would also be QA.

 

[jonnyc1999]

I've useing this type setup since 1995..yet to have problem.
Pull one pin plow free from bucket.

Thomas, did you build that plow setup yourself, or did you have it done? I was thinking of doing something VERY similar to mine, converting and extending my craftsman plow into something I can use on my CT122. I'm not a fan of the $1900 price tag Bobcat wants for their plow setup!

 

[Thomas]

Jonnyc...I built it myself.
When plow set at 45 degrees..both angles..plow should touch bucket for more pushing support.

Theres times the old way still the best way,beside gives one chance to loosen the legs when switching angles.

 

[jonnyc1999]

It looks like you have some good engineering done there, I really like it! My craftsman plow is 48" but I have an extra blade that I was thinking about cutting a foot off each end and adding to the 48 incher. the subframe should be able to bolt up to a mounting plate like the one you have. Do you think it would work with a smaller plate?

 

[Notforhire]

One thing to keep in mind. The greater the distance the blade is from the end of the loader arms, the more side thrust is applied to the arms. Ag loaders are not as strong as industrial loaders. They are really material handlers intended to push forward not sideways. Great force is applied when the plow is angled. Hopefully the machine gets pushed sideways before the loader arms begin to bend. The shorter the distance out, the better. We are already asking the loader to do something it wasn't designed to do.

Bill

 

[Thomas]

Jonnyc.
Sound like you got good plan at low cost.

If you pan to 45 degree plow,I found blade should be least 6" be on rear wheel.
1/4" metal for frame also bracing as you see fit.

I'll be looking forward to updates on your project.

 

[Thomas]

Notforhire.
You are correct,but going slow w/common sense shouldn't be problem.

 

[jonnyc1999]

One thing to keep in mind. The greater the distance the blade is from the end of the loader arms, the more side thrust is applied to the arms. Ag loaders are not as strong as industrial loaders. They are really material handlers intended to push forward not sideways. Great force is applied when the plow is angled. Hopefully the machine gets pushed sideways before the loader arms begin to bend. The shorter the distance out, the better. We are already asking the loader to do something it wasn't designed to do.

Bill

You have a point, but I would think that Bobcat/kioti wouldn't sell a loader mounted plow if it wasn't up to the task. For the amount of use it's going to get in the winter down here, I think it will be plenty strong for homeower use.

 

[Notforhire]

By all means do what you think is best. As the operator, you can control how hard you push the machine.
As far as approved equipment goes, Bobcat I believe now sells the dipper style backhoes that use the loader arms, as the lower boom. The pins on the QA were never designed for the leverage that exists in this attachment. The result is bent pins. Aftermarket Mfg. have been producing these backhoes for years. I think Bobcat just started selling them because they were missing some sales. If you are careful and dig in sand you may never have a problem. Bobcat loaders are well built and take a lot of abuse.
As far as the plows go, if there is a lot of leverage built into the design there is potential for trouble.
If you are careful or are only plowing light powder, you may have something that works for years.

 

[DiskDoctr]

I've useing this type setup since 1995..yet to have problem.
Pull one pin plow free from bucket.

Sweet!

Simple and effective.

Here's a tip: the pivot pin that is used for the blade angle should be soft- think shearpin. When (not if ) the edge of your blade catches something solid and you are plowing a bit too fast, your mass should shear the pin instead of breaking something important.

You already have the springs for when the bottom edge of your blade catches something.

Carry a few spares with you. You never know what is hidding in someone's driveway! Ask me how I know Mine was a rear blade in the middle of that big snowstorm. Broke 4 pins that week, but it was a state of emergency.

- JC

 

[robs660]

I have a bracket in the bucket. Photo to follow. Took about 2 hours to build

 

[Thomas]

DiskDoctr good advice about shear pin,also carry good hammer if pin should get bent.

The things we find when plowing..arrrrr.

 

[DiskDoctr]

DiskDoctr good advice about shear pin,also carry good hammer if pin should get bent.

The things we find when plowing..arrrrr.

Neighbor, "Oh yeah, we poured a 5x10 concrete pad this fall and it sticks up a few inches..." [facepalm!] as I crawl off the hood and back into the seat (Not quite that bad, but it felt like it!)

Hammer? Always!!!

- JC