Mig feed rate too high ? How do I know ?

[Farwell]

Jerry,
You can change your liner for different size wire or if it gets kinked. On my Hobart I have a separate liner and rollers for using wire for welding aluminum. I had to change the liner when I ran out of shield gas and had to use flux core wire which is a little bigger.
Farwell

 

[Farwell]

Jerry,
You can change your liner for different size wire or if it gets kinked. On my Hobart I have a separate liner and rollers for using wire for welding aluminum. I had to change the liner when I ran out of shield gas and had to use flux core wire which is a little bigger.
Farwell

 

[SPIKER]

sounds like the liner and possably some warn roller feed rollers, the groves can wear if it slips too much. the liners will develope groves inside and these will catch the wire as it feeds through it, also stepping, or kinking the lead will damage the liner too, also as the wire feeds through it rubs the liner and small parts of the wire are rubbed off iside the liner as well as groves wearing in the liner this equates to junk iside the liner that will cause binding as the litter parts break off the liner sides and wedge into the space the wire leaves ineffect jamming it up, you free it up by the hard tug and every thing worksd for a while. also biggest problem is right where the lead gun exits the machine they hang usually straight out then bend DOWn as the weight falls to the floor right there the wire always hits that outter edge of the liner & wears it the worst at that point, and then riolling the machine atround pulling by the lead or worse letting the machine hit a object and bend the lead down even more there.

remove and clean the liners by dipping into a small pan of diesel fuel and then spraying through it with compressed air, followed up by some liner cleaner/lube that comes inb a spray can and is similar to WD40 only it does not have any dieelectric properties which most oils do... so don't use WD40 as that was used as a material everyone can relate to, they also have a smaller HOSE to squirt the cleaner into the lnier with.

mark M

 

[SPIKER]

sounds like the liner and possably some warn roller feed rollers, the groves can wear if it slips too much. the liners will develope groves inside and these will catch the wire as it feeds through it, also stepping, or kinking the lead will damage the liner too, also as the wire feeds through it rubs the liner and small parts of the wire are rubbed off iside the liner as well as groves wearing in the liner this equates to junk iside the liner that will cause binding as the litter parts break off the liner sides and wedge into the space the wire leaves ineffect jamming it up, you free it up by the hard tug and every thing worksd for a while. also biggest problem is right where the lead gun exits the machine they hang usually straight out then bend DOWn as the weight falls to the floor right there the wire always hits that outter edge of the liner & wears it the worst at that point, and then riolling the machine atround pulling by the lead or worse letting the machine hit a object and bend the lead down even more there.

remove and clean the liners by dipping into a small pan of diesel fuel and then spraying through it with compressed air, followed up by some liner cleaner/lube that comes inb a spray can and is similar to WD40 only it does not have any dieelectric properties which most oils do... so don't use WD40 as that was used as a material everyone can relate to, they also have a smaller HOSE to squirt the cleaner into the lnier with.

mark M

 

[Mrwurm]

I just thought of something . . . I read another thread that described mig welding as being 'as easy as using a hot glue gun.' That makes me wonder . . . When I learned to use a stick welder in High School shop class, we were taught to angle the stick towards the direction of travel. This preheats the area you are about to weld, but is exactly the opposite of how you handle a hot glue gun. I run my mig the same way I would run a stick. The gun is angled and feeding in the same direction that I'm moving the handle. Could this be the problem ?

 

[Mrwurm]

I just thought of something . . . I read another thread that described mig welding as being 'as easy as using a hot glue gun.' That makes me wonder . . . When I learned to use a stick welder in High School shop class, we were taught to angle the stick towards the direction of travel. This preheats the area you are about to weld, but is exactly the opposite of how you handle a hot glue gun. I run my mig the same way I would run a stick. The gun is angled and feeding in the same direction that I'm moving the handle. Could this be the problem ?

 

[Mrwurm]

Spiker, the mig has only been used a few times. Maybe twenty minutes total 'on time.' I have only used a small amount of the starter spool of wire that came with the machine.

 

[Mrwurm]

Spiker, the mig has only been used a few times. Maybe twenty minutes total 'on time.' I have only used a small amount of the starter spool of wire that came with the machine.

 

[wushaw]

I would check the liner, it is just like and old mechanical choke housing.
Replacing it is not hard if you find it kinked.
I know mine is not kinked but it could be worn or crud built up in it since it is over 5 years old and I've only had it four months.

 

[wushaw]

I would check the liner, it is just like and old mechanical choke housing.
Replacing it is not hard if you find it kinked.
I know mine is not kinked but it could be worn or crud built up in it since it is over 5 years old and I've only had it four months.

 

[Freds]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Could this be the problem ? )</font>

No. Some guys push a mig stinger to see where they are going and some guys pull to see where they've been.

 

[Freds]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Could this be the problem ? )</font>

No. Some guys push a mig stinger to see where they are going and some guys pull to see where they've been.

 

[TOMDUALLY]

MRWURM; You hit on it in your opening statement, When using flux .030 you are suposed to use a .035 tip at least that is what it says in my instruction manual for my Hobart 175, when you get some gas then you run the same number tip as your wire. Hope this helps, just keep practicing and have fun.
Read the boring stuff in your instruction manual they put some good information in some of the wierdest places that can be a big help for us beginers. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[TOMDUALLY]

MRWURM; You hit on it in your opening statement, When using flux .030 you are suposed to use a .035 tip at least that is what it says in my instruction manual for my Hobart 175, when you get some gas then you run the same number tip as your wire. Hope this helps, just keep practicing and have fun.
Read the boring stuff in your instruction manual they put some good information in some of the wierdest places that can be a big help for us beginers. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[Mrwurm]

Great tip, I tried a .035 tip and it works fine. I'll check my manual to see what it says about this.

 

[Mrwurm]

Great tip, I tried a .035 tip and it works fine. I'll check my manual to see what it says about this.

 

[Berniep]

I find my best results come from having the gun perpendicular(sp)
to the weld. Niether pulling or pushing.

 

[Berniep]

I find my best results come from having the gun perpendicular(sp)
to the weld. Niether pulling or pushing.

 

[SPIKER]

the HEAT on a MIG is slightly more consentrated and generallt the best method is to PUSH the weld rather than PULLING it as if you PULL it it will build up a PILE of weld which will simply fill up on TOP rather than heating enough to penetrate well. by pushing the weld it does pre-heat the ateras more BUT it also depends on HOW you can get into the spot, corners over heads ect will determine how you weld in many cases, but flat long butt welds need to be pushed at an angle of about 80 degrees not quite straight up but tilted enough so you can see the weld puddle and the seam. same for fillet welding (inside corners) outside corners require less heat and slightly more travel speed depending on thickness.

I've welded everything from 22 gauge stainless steel to milti-inch thick steel & alum bars. using MIG, Stick, Heliarch/TIG & Spray arc on them. always wanted to try some of the carbon arc stuff but hey I kind of gave up working and became an electrician /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

mark M

 

[SPIKER]

the HEAT on a MIG is slightly more consentrated and generallt the best method is to PUSH the weld rather than PULLING it as if you PULL it it will build up a PILE of weld which will simply fill up on TOP rather than heating enough to penetrate well. by pushing the weld it does pre-heat the ateras more BUT it also depends on HOW you can get into the spot, corners over heads ect will determine how you weld in many cases, but flat long butt welds need to be pushed at an angle of about 80 degrees not quite straight up but tilted enough so you can see the weld puddle and the seam. same for fillet welding (inside corners) outside corners require less heat and slightly more travel speed depending on thickness.

I've welded everything from 22 gauge stainless steel to milti-inch thick steel & alum bars. using MIG, Stick, Heliarch/TIG & Spray arc on them. always wanted to try some of the carbon arc stuff but hey I kind of gave up working and became an electrician /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

mark M