MF35 Utility - repairs for winter

[twosocks90]

I've owned this MF35 for 9 years now. It wasn't running when I got it but only took routine things to get it going. Replaced distributor caps, rotor, plugs, and worked with the neutral start switch. I've been using it ever since.

Over the years, small things have been breaking. The ammeter quit, water pump started leaking, brakes don't really work, and other things. I've repaired the urgent things as needed but let many other things slide. This fall is the time to deal with those nagging other problems.

First, pictures.

The first is my son grading when we built our house.

Second show a bale spear I had made. We were test fitting it. It works well but the tractor barely lifts large bales.

Third is using it for snow removal. I sometimes keep the flail mower on the rear for added traction.

 

[twosocks90]

This is how it looks now. The loader, fenders & hood are off. The radiator is out so I can get at the bearings for the front hydraulic pump.

I installed a battery hold down. We live on hilly ground and the battery tended to flop from side to side on the hills. I bought a normal hold down and drilled a couple of holes in the tractor for the j-bolts. The j-bolts are only threaded near the very top and I needed a lot more threads so I ran a 1/4-20 die down them. The front bolt had to be cut very short since it's hooked to the back of the dash. Shouldn't be a problem since there's not a lot of pressure on it and the metal is pretty thick there.

I also replaced the ammeter with a voltmeter. Twice over the years I've had the tractor just stop on me. The first time it was because the ammeter had failed. The second time, a connection at the ammeter had come loose. We were baling hay and had to borrow a tractor to finish before it rained. I had to do some minor rewiring to get the voltmeter to work but I'm happy I did so. Even if it fails, the tractor will still run fine.

 

[twosocks90]

Here's a problem. The hydraulic pump for the loader is mounted on the crankshaft pulley. The rear bearing (red circle) won't take grease - never has. I've removed the zerk and tried to clear the hole but I'm hitting solid metal. Maybe the bearing has spun? The yellow circle shows the shaft where it goes into the pump. Now that the pump is off, I can wiggle that shaft up and down maybe 1/8". I'd like to replace both bearings (at least I think there's two there...)

Does the front axle have to come off? I can't see how to get the pump drive shaft off/out. It unbolts from the crank pulley but there doesn't seem to be a way to get it out after that.

 

[MF Workbull]

The pump shaft screws (left hand threads) into the adapter plate that is bolted to the crank pulley. I made a "shaft removal" tool by taking a short piece of threaded rod that fit inside the pump end of shaft, cut a groove and welded a piece of key stock into the groove, insert into shaft and double nutted the threaded rod, prevent the engine from turning over and out it came. Then you can unbolt the adapter plate and see if it needs to be replaced. The shaft lightly rides on two bushings. If you don't have the manual, I'd recommend one and also check AGCO.com. Good luck!

 

[shaeff]

I can't help you with the front bearing repairs, as I've not done mine yet. I'm just checking in to say nice machine, mine is identical to yours! Nice to see another 35 Utility online.

I'll be following closely. If you ever need to get into the rear of the tractor for hydraulic pump rebuild/ rear lift cylinder feel free to ask me anything as I just finished that project a few months ago.

Edit: is that a MF 99 loader? (no down pressure?)

 

[twosocks90]

Workbull: Left handed thread! I never would have thought of that. I have a pdf copy of the manual I bought off ebay but the scan quality isn't great. Thanks for the tool idea - I'll fab something up like you suggested.

shaeff: I followed your repair thread closely and it somewhat inspired me to start my repairs. Actually I am not addressing the main problem with the tractor - leaking transmission oil. I originally planned on splitting the tractor before the snow falls but life got busy. The bolts on the loader were ridiculously tight and rusted on and by the time I got them off (took several evenings after work) I realized I can't get everything done in time before it snows. When I'm done with the other repairs I'm gonna put it back together, never-seize new loader bolts (Grade 8 5/8"x6") and deal with the transmission seal next spring.

I know it's not necessary to remove the loader to split the tractor but I had so many other repairs also, plus I hate the idea of working under a blocked up loader, that I just decided to take it off. I'm glad I did. It makes accessing everything else SO much easier.

I think it's a model 99 loader but I have never been able to find an identifying tag on it. You are correct - no down pressure and just one cylinder to tilt the bucket. I had to rework the loader control valve after a spring inside broke and the bucket would constantly flop over. After searching far and wide for internal parts for the control valve I ended up just going to the hardware store, buying a generic spring and cutting it to fit. It worked out just fine.

 

[shaeff]

shaeff: I followed your repair thread closely and it somewhat inspired me to start my repairs. Actually I am not addressing the main problem with the tractor - leaking transmission oil. I originally planned on splitting the tractor before the snow falls but life got busy. The bolts on the loader were ridiculously tight and rusted on and by the time I got them off (took several evenings after work) I realized I can't get everything done in time before it snows. When I'm done with the other repairs I'm gonna put it back together, never-seize new loader bolts (Grade 8 5/8"x6") and deal with the transmission seal next spring.

I know it's not necessary to remove the loader to split the tractor but I had so many other repairs also, plus I hate the idea of working under a blocked up loader, that I just decided to take it off. I'm glad I did. It makes accessing everything else SO much easier.

I think it's a model 99 loader but I have never been able to find an identifying tag on it. You are correct - no down pressure and just one cylinder to tilt the bucket. I had to rework the loader control valve after a spring inside broke and the bucket would constantly flop over. After searching far and wide for internal parts for the control valve I ended up just going to the hardware store, buying a generic spring and cutting it to fit. It worked out just fine.

Excellent! I'm glad I helped inspire you. I've got close to the same problem, which you likely remember from my thread. My rear main seal is leaking, so I lose engine oil into the bellhousing. I just keep topping it off for now, but after a good solid day of use, the oil level is getting toward the "danger" /fill line. I'll have to split the machine, but I have no time for that, and otherwise everything functions as normal and the machine runs like a top. We are basically in the same boat, lots on the list but no time to do it.

If yours has single acting loader arm cylinders its definitely a Massey 99 or Davis 99 loader. (Davis made the loaders for Massey, then were bought by Massey). If you use Internet Explorer go to:

AGCO Parts Books

(the AGCO parts books online don't play well with other browsers besides IE)

click on guest user "view books" in the lower right, type in "35 Utility" under "search by model" and scroll to "MASSEY FERGUSON" under the drop down menu, it'll give you a good full parts breakdown of the tractor, and if you type in "99 loader" it'll pop up with parts breakdowns for both the Massey and Davis 99 loaders. Very useful! The Massey version is more in depth from what I remember.

The model 100 loader also had only one dump cylinder, but had double acting lift rams. Someone upgraded mine at some point, as mine is a 99 loader (tag on the right side says so) but I have double acting lift cylinders and a single dump.

I know you said you've got it figured out, but here's a screen shot I snagged off the link I posted above along with the parts breakdown:

 

[PatrickS2222]

Hello, great to see another lovely machine being preserved whilst its still "earning its keep" rather than just collecting dust! :thumbsup: You have a good on there.

The pump drive shaft has a LH thread so it stays tight under load in direction of rotation. I didn't know it unscrewed until after I had dismantled mine! Check your parts diagram, but when I had mine apart (albeit a 3cyl diesel) the shaft merely passed through the front axle pivot - there didn't appear to be any bearings or bushes. I didn't unscrew the shaft, I unbolted the front axle after supporting it with a crane attachment on our MF135 and moved it forward off the end of the shaft. That was to recondition the engine. It would have been a bit easier I guess to have unscrewed it though. I sorted out a few issues around the front, and all's been well since.

Those grease points you have circled I believe are for the front axle. Dry grease in the passages will require unbelievable pressure to move, if at all. It may require dismantling and cleaning, at which time you'd be well advised to renew the worn axle bushes you described. Check the cushion bushes in the drive flange - mine were off-centre and tired but I couldn't get new ones quickly. So I knocked them out, rotated them 1/2 a turn, refitted them and wished them luck - the "unworked" side can have a turn now, the rubber was quite fit and all still appears good. Ensure the bolts are the correct length - mine were much too short, they need to screw into the pulley about 1/2 an inch, and stay tight.

Regarding gearbox oil leaks - from where is it leaking? What transmission does it have?

Those bales must be heavy if it's struggling to lift them - I'm amazed what mine lifts, although it appears to be a 102 model loader. Check this page and the links near the bottom - kindly posted by another knowledgeable enthusiast.

Davis Loader 99-101-102 - Owner's Manual

 

[twosocks90]

Ah, tons of good info. The AgCo parts breakdown is excellent. Thanks shaeff.

PatrickS, I don't know exact how much the bales weigh. When I buy 1,000lbs of grain in large totes, the loader will lift them but it is a strain. I would guess the bales are 1,100-1,200lbs.

I got the shaft out but now I'm not sure if I need to keep taking things apart. The shaft itself is in excellent shape. The front bushing is definitely worn but I am not sure it matters much since the hydraulic pump actually receives the shaft. I'm thinking there's not much load on that front bushing and if I just keep it greased it will be okay.

As PatrickS pointed out, the rear bushing is for the front axle and not the shaft (I missed that at first). I removed the zerk and messed with it, put the zerk back on and now it's taking grease (for the first time ever!). I can see it coming out on both sides near the crankshaft pulley. Do y'all think I need to continue or can I just reassemble everything and call it good?

Check the cushion bushes in the drive flange - mine were off-centre and tired but I couldn't get new ones quickly. So I knocked them out, rotated them 1/2 a turn, refitted them and wished them luck

Patrick, I don't understand what bushings you're talking about here. Which bushings?

 

[PatrickS2222]

Ah, tons of good info. The AgCo parts breakdown is excellent. Thanks shaeff.

PatrickS, I don't know exact how much the bales weigh. When I buy 1,000lbs of grain in large totes, the loader will lift them but it is a strain. I would guess the bales are 1,100-1,200lbs.

I got the shaft out but now I'm not sure if I need to keep taking things apart. The shaft itself is in excellent shape. The front bushing is definitely worn but I am not sure it matters much since the hydraulic pump actually receives the shaft. I'm thinking there's not much load on that front bushing and if I just keep it greased it will be okay.

The rear bushing is for the front axle and not the shaft (I missed that at first). I removed the zerk and messed with it, put the zerk back on and now it's taking grease (for the first time ever!). I can see it coming out on both sides near the crankshaft pulley. Do y'all think I need to continue or can I just reassemble everything and call it good?



Patrick, I don't understand what bushings you're talking about here. Which bushings?

Hi mate, from tractordata.com - *Lift to full height (at pin): 3400 lbs [1542 kg] *Loader Model 100 - just cannot find one with a 99 loader.

Can anyone please clarify what does "Lift to full height (at pin)" actually mean? I personally don't have a clue on that one. :ashamed:
If that's at the bucket mounting pins a 99 loader might be nearing the limit at its current age, but should comfortably lift them.Axle pivot bushes great to hear they'll both now take grease - there's some wear in at least the rear one, but that's understandable, given its history. I'd suggest keep them both greased (especially on a loader that's being used), if the steering is Ok - call it good.

The bushes I mentioned on mine are about 7/8" OD, pressed into the drive flange at the engine end of the shaft, and 3/8" bolts through them into the front pulley. They only provide a bit of flex to cater for minor misalignment etc, but also carry the torque to drive the pump.

 

[shaeff]

Half height lift for the 99 is 2300lbs. Full height is 1500lbs Info here: Model specs (3 pages)

How's the governor on your machine working? Does it maintain RPM when under load? At some point in my machine's life, the loader lift cylinders were replaced with those of the heavier 101/102 Loaders. They're double acting and the stamped PN matches.

Have you tried cleaning the filter screen in the bottom of the reservoir where the lower suction hose attached? Perhaps it's a bit clogged, reducing flow?

Edit: I'm fairly certain that "at pins" is where the bucket pins onto the loader arms. Keep in mind that the further out from those pins your weight is, the less you'll be able to lift. My 99 actually has a slot in the lower loader arm crossmember to attach a chain BEHIND the pins, presumably for lifting a bit more weight?

 

[PatrickS2222]

Aren't I a smart cookie ... I posted that exact link 3 or 4 posts ago, also have it bookmarked and still forgot about it! :confused2:
Your "at pins" interpretation agrees with my thoughts. I reckon it's a standardised measuring point.
Good thinking though Shaeff, that was just what we needed to know. :thumbsup:
I've also got in my "one-day book" the intention to add chain grab-hooks on both that same cross-member and to the top at the outer front edges of the bucket. It's in pretty good condition overall, but a few more minor repairs are also planned.

 

[twosocks90]

Yes, the governor works fine but when I left heavy loads, the relief valve opens and starts screaming. I never even knew there was a screen in the return line until I read through the model 99 loader manual that you guys posted Now I am convinced that either the relief valve spring tension is incorrect, the screen is dirty, or the pump is worn. I am looking around for a hydraulic pressure gauge for when I put it back together.

I used to be able to lift large bales easier than I can now. Last year was the worst - I could barely get them off the ground. I'm glad I know where to look now! The manual is a big help. Too bad it's not in pdf form but I can't complain.

I'm going to put the front back together and not mess with those bushings any more. It's getting cool outside and I need this to be wrapped up in another week or so.

Patrick, you asked what's leaking. I'm leaking transmission oil into the bellhousing and then it runs out the weep hole at the bottom. It seems to be a classic failure of the seal there. I just don't have time to fix it before winter. Too many other things to do also! :confused2:

After I put the shaft back in and verify grease is still going where it should, I have to
- adjust the rear brakes
- modify the hood to fit the new radiator I installed two years ago
- rewire the front lights and finally run a wire to the rear work light
- check the hydraulic pressure and find out why I can barely lift 1,000lbs
- put everything back together!

 

[PatrickS2222]

Ensure the weep-hole is and stays completely clear, other than a split pin in it.[/U] I say this because I was exactly there a couple years ago on my good friend's FE35 "Copper-belly" plus renewing all (incredibly noisy) gearbox bearings. His tractor's bellhousing lower plate was completely covered by framing for a canopy. The bellhousing was full of gear oil up to the same level as the gearbox it seemed, to the point where it would throw oil out the timing pin hole in the LH side rear edge of the block! Clutch was oil-soaked, starter motor was full of oil as well! Both worked well again after a thorough soak, wash and rinse with pertol, then several days drying in sunlight.
If your tractor has a two-stage clutch there will be two gearbox input shafts - one is tubular - and two oil seals. One oil seal is between the tubular (PTO/3ph Hyd pump drive) and the front housing. The second seal not everyone realises is there, pressed into the tubular shaft and seals between it and the solid (gearbox drive) shaft.
The good news is that the input shaft assembly is a separate and removable housing with a neat-fitting diameter for the bore in the main casing, a flange mount and gasket. It is designed and machined to be unbolted and removed once gearbox oil has been drained and the tractor has been split at the bellhousing. The bad news is three high-load 6206series bearings, a double-row needle-roller set without a cage and several brutal-strength snap rings! :laughing:
Don't let it scare you - that is the only time I've dismantled one of those gearboxes, and I now understand why - they are very well-designed, robust, huge gears, contain seven huge high-load bearings and are quite impressive. Harry Ferguson's standards were quite high in those days! They are indestructible behind the smaller engines because the same gearboxes are also utilised in much larger models with much bigger diesel engines. :thumbsup:

Fortune favours the brave ..... read the relevant literature, check bearings and renew if seriously worn - seals won't seal where excessive freeplay is present. 620* series bearings are dirt cheap stock size bearings. Be aware where snap rings are located when pressing shafts out if dismantling is necessary, and refit them correctly on reassembly. :drink:

 

[PatrickS2222]

A correction to my previous post - 6208 bearings would be a much more appropriate size! :confused2:
Must've been a senior moment ...

 

[twosocks90]

A correction to my previous post - 6208 bearings would be a much more appropriate size! :confused2:
Must've been a senior moment ...

Ha, I totally get it.

Hydraulic pressure gauge has been ordered and should be here by the weekend. I'm expecting testing to show a lazy pressure relief spring. I'll also clean out the screen that shaeff mentioned.

 

[PatrickS2222]

Yes, springs do lose some strength over years. The oil striner screen may also play a part in this as well, although I would expect symptoms of excessive oil pick-up restriction would be slower movement regardless of pump speed, or a howling/screaming noise due to cavitation. We encounter this noise in automatic transmissions with old and therefore blocked oil pick-up filters dur to lack of transmission servicing.
Another possibility is incorrect (too thin) oil in the hydraulic system. Check a sample with someone who has experience in machinery hydraulic systems and get their opinion - somebody may have filled it with the wrong oil, or (with all the best intentions) synthetic rather than mineral hyd oil. :drink:

 

[shaeff]

bmiszuk- when you put the front hydraulic pump back on, can you snap a few pictures of how it mounts and the length of the PTO shaft? After looking at yours and others' online, I see that mine is not mounted in the factory way. Mine's got a long PTO shaft that comes all the way out to the edge of the grille guard, and the pump is mounted (unprotected!) on the OUTSIDE of my grille guard. I noticed that yours is nice and close to the sheet metal. I'd like to make mine like it should be if possible.

 

[twosocks90]

bmiszuk- when you put the front hydraulic pump back on, can you snap a few pictures of how it mounts and the length of the PTO shaft? After looking at yours and others' online, I see that mine is not mounted in the factory way. Mine's got a long PTO shaft that comes all the way out to the edge of the grille guard, and the pump is mounted (unprotected!) on the OUTSIDE of my grille guard. I noticed that yours is nice and close to the sheet metal. I'd like to make mine like it should be if possible.

Yep, will do. I plan to work on it tomorrow. It's been real busy here and I need some garage time. I'll post pics.

Another possibility is incorrect (too thin) oil in the hydraulic system.

That's a good point. I have never changed the oil in the loader. When you say mineral hyd oil, you mean the loader should use the same oil that's in the transmission/3pt lift?

Ew, the more I think about it I wonder what the inlet screen really looks like. Hopefully I can get that far tomorrow and take a look.

 

[shaeff]

Excellent, thanks! For what it's worth, I'm running Traveller's brand (from tractor supply) in my machine- in the transmission, loader, and power steering. All function perfectly, and makes it easy to have fewer fluid types to keep on hand.