MF35 Utility - repairs for winter

[twosocks90]

I've owned this MF35 for 9 years now. It wasn't running when I got it but only took routine things to get it going. Replaced distributor caps, rotor, plugs, and worked with the neutral start switch. I've been using it ever since.

Over the years, small things have been breaking. The ammeter quit, water pump started leaking, brakes don't really work, and other things. I've repaired the urgent things as needed but let many other things slide. This fall is the time to deal with those nagging other problems.

First, pictures.

The first is my son grading when we built our house.

Second show a bale spear I had made. We were test fitting it. It works well but the tractor barely lifts large bales.

Third is using it for snow removal. I sometimes keep the flail mower on the rear for added traction.

 

[twosocks90]

This is how it looks now. The loader, fenders & hood are off. The radiator is out so I can get at the bearings for the front hydraulic pump.

I installed a battery hold down. We live on hilly ground and the battery tended to flop from side to side on the hills. I bought a normal hold down and drilled a couple of holes in the tractor for the j-bolts. The j-bolts are only threaded near the very top and I needed a lot more threads so I ran a 1/4-20 die down them. The front bolt had to be cut very short since it's hooked to the back of the dash. Shouldn't be a problem since there's not a lot of pressure on it and the metal is pretty thick there.

I also replaced the ammeter with a voltmeter. Twice over the years I've had the tractor just stop on me. The first time it was because the ammeter had failed. The second time, a connection at the ammeter had come loose. We were baling hay and had to borrow a tractor to finish before it rained. I had to do some minor rewiring to get the voltmeter to work but I'm happy I did so. Even if it fails, the tractor will still run fine.

 

[twosocks90]

Here's a problem. The hydraulic pump for the loader is mounted on the crankshaft pulley. The rear bearing (red circle) won't take grease - never has. I've removed the zerk and tried to clear the hole but I'm hitting solid metal. Maybe the bearing has spun? The yellow circle shows the shaft where it goes into the pump. Now that the pump is off, I can wiggle that shaft up and down maybe 1/8". I'd like to replace both bearings (at least I think there's two there...)

Does the front axle have to come off? I can't see how to get the pump drive shaft off/out. It unbolts from the crank pulley but there doesn't seem to be a way to get it out after that.

 

[MF Workbull]

The pump shaft screws (left hand threads) into the adapter plate that is bolted to the crank pulley. I made a "shaft removal" tool by taking a short piece of threaded rod that fit inside the pump end of shaft, cut a groove and welded a piece of key stock into the groove, insert into shaft and double nutted the threaded rod, prevent the engine from turning over and out it came. Then you can unbolt the adapter plate and see if it needs to be replaced. The shaft lightly rides on two bushings. If you don't have the manual, I'd recommend one and also check AGCO.com. Good luck!

 

[shaeff]

I can't help you with the front bearing repairs, as I've not done mine yet. I'm just checking in to say nice machine, mine is identical to yours! Nice to see another 35 Utility online.

I'll be following closely. If you ever need to get into the rear of the tractor for hydraulic pump rebuild/ rear lift cylinder feel free to ask me anything as I just finished that project a few months ago.

Edit: is that a MF 99 loader? (no down pressure?)

 

[twosocks90]

Workbull: Left handed thread! I never would have thought of that. I have a pdf copy of the manual I bought off ebay but the scan quality isn't great. Thanks for the tool idea - I'll fab something up like you suggested.

shaeff: I followed your repair thread closely and it somewhat inspired me to start my repairs. Actually I am not addressing the main problem with the tractor - leaking transmission oil. I originally planned on splitting the tractor before the snow falls but life got busy. The bolts on the loader were ridiculously tight and rusted on and by the time I got them off (took several evenings after work) I realized I can't get everything done in time before it snows. When I'm done with the other repairs I'm gonna put it back together, never-seize new loader bolts (Grade 8 5/8"x6") and deal with the transmission seal next spring.

I know it's not necessary to remove the loader to split the tractor but I had so many other repairs also, plus I hate the idea of working under a blocked up loader, that I just decided to take it off. I'm glad I did. It makes accessing everything else SO much easier.

I think it's a model 99 loader but I have never been able to find an identifying tag on it. You are correct - no down pressure and just one cylinder to tilt the bucket. I had to rework the loader control valve after a spring inside broke and the bucket would constantly flop over. After searching far and wide for internal parts for the control valve I ended up just going to the hardware store, buying a generic spring and cutting it to fit. It worked out just fine.

 

[shaeff]

shaeff: I followed your repair thread closely and it somewhat inspired me to start my repairs. Actually I am not addressing the main problem with the tractor - leaking transmission oil. I originally planned on splitting the tractor before the snow falls but life got busy. The bolts on the loader were ridiculously tight and rusted on and by the time I got them off (took several evenings after work) I realized I can't get everything done in time before it snows. When I'm done with the other repairs I'm gonna put it back together, never-seize new loader bolts (Grade 8 5/8"x6") and deal with the transmission seal next spring.

I know it's not necessary to remove the loader to split the tractor but I had so many other repairs also, plus I hate the idea of working under a blocked up loader, that I just decided to take it off. I'm glad I did. It makes accessing everything else SO much easier.

I think it's a model 99 loader but I have never been able to find an identifying tag on it. You are correct - no down pressure and just one cylinder to tilt the bucket. I had to rework the loader control valve after a spring inside broke and the bucket would constantly flop over. After searching far and wide for internal parts for the control valve I ended up just going to the hardware store, buying a generic spring and cutting it to fit. It worked out just fine.

Excellent! I'm glad I helped inspire you. I've got close to the same problem, which you likely remember from my thread. My rear main seal is leaking, so I lose engine oil into the bellhousing. I just keep topping it off for now, but after a good solid day of use, the oil level is getting toward the "danger" /fill line. I'll have to split the machine, but I have no time for that, and otherwise everything functions as normal and the machine runs like a top. We are basically in the same boat, lots on the list but no time to do it.

If yours has single acting loader arm cylinders its definitely a Massey 99 or Davis 99 loader. (Davis made the loaders for Massey, then were bought by Massey). If you use Internet Explorer go to:

AGCO Parts Books

(the AGCO parts books online don't play well with other browsers besides IE)

click on guest user "view books" in the lower right, type in "35 Utility" under "search by model" and scroll to "MASSEY FERGUSON" under the drop down menu, it'll give you a good full parts breakdown of the tractor, and if you type in "99 loader" it'll pop up with parts breakdowns for both the Massey and Davis 99 loaders. Very useful! The Massey version is more in depth from what I remember.

The model 100 loader also had only one dump cylinder, but had double acting lift rams. Someone upgraded mine at some point, as mine is a 99 loader (tag on the right side says so) but I have double acting lift cylinders and a single dump.

I know you said you've got it figured out, but here's a screen shot I snagged off the link I posted above along with the parts breakdown:

 

[PatrickS2222]

Hello, great to see another lovely machine being preserved whilst its still "earning its keep" rather than just collecting dust! :thumbsup: You have a good on there.

The pump drive shaft has a LH thread so it stays tight under load in direction of rotation. I didn't know it unscrewed until after I had dismantled mine! Check your parts diagram, but when I had mine apart (albeit a 3cyl diesel) the shaft merely passed through the front axle pivot - there didn't appear to be any bearings or bushes. I didn't unscrew the shaft, I unbolted the front axle after supporting it with a crane attachment on our MF135 and moved it forward off the end of the shaft. That was to recondition the engine. It would have been a bit easier I guess to have unscrewed it though. I sorted out a few issues around the front, and all's been well since.

Those grease points you have circled I believe are for the front axle. Dry grease in the passages will require unbelievable pressure to move, if at all. It may require dismantling and cleaning, at which time you'd be well advised to renew the worn axle bushes you described. Check the cushion bushes in the drive flange - mine were off-centre and tired but I couldn't get new ones quickly. So I knocked them out, rotated them 1/2 a turn, refitted them and wished them luck - the "unworked" side can have a turn now, the rubber was quite fit and all still appears good. Ensure the bolts are the correct length - mine were much too short, they need to screw into the pulley about 1/2 an inch, and stay tight.

Regarding gearbox oil leaks - from where is it leaking? What transmission does it have?

Those bales must be heavy if it's struggling to lift them - I'm amazed what mine lifts, although it appears to be a 102 model loader. Check this page and the links near the bottom - kindly posted by another knowledgeable enthusiast.

Davis Loader 99-101-102 - Owner's Manual

 

[twosocks90]

Ah, tons of good info. The AgCo parts breakdown is excellent. Thanks shaeff.

PatrickS, I don't know exact how much the bales weigh. When I buy 1,000lbs of grain in large totes, the loader will lift them but it is a strain. I would guess the bales are 1,100-1,200lbs.

I got the shaft out but now I'm not sure if I need to keep taking things apart. The shaft itself is in excellent shape. The front bushing is definitely worn but I am not sure it matters much since the hydraulic pump actually receives the shaft. I'm thinking there's not much load on that front bushing and if I just keep it greased it will be okay.

As PatrickS pointed out, the rear bushing is for the front axle and not the shaft (I missed that at first). I removed the zerk and messed with it, put the zerk back on and now it's taking grease (for the first time ever!). I can see it coming out on both sides near the crankshaft pulley. Do y'all think I need to continue or can I just reassemble everything and call it good?

Check the cushion bushes in the drive flange - mine were off-centre and tired but I couldn't get new ones quickly. So I knocked them out, rotated them 1/2 a turn, refitted them and wished them luck

Patrick, I don't understand what bushings you're talking about here. Which bushings?

 

[PatrickS2222]

Ah, tons of good info. The AgCo parts breakdown is excellent. Thanks shaeff.

PatrickS, I don't know exact how much the bales weigh. When I buy 1,000lbs of grain in large totes, the loader will lift them but it is a strain. I would guess the bales are 1,100-1,200lbs.

I got the shaft out but now I'm not sure if I need to keep taking things apart. The shaft itself is in excellent shape. The front bushing is definitely worn but I am not sure it matters much since the hydraulic pump actually receives the shaft. I'm thinking there's not much load on that front bushing and if I just keep it greased it will be okay.

The rear bushing is for the front axle and not the shaft (I missed that at first). I removed the zerk and messed with it, put the zerk back on and now it's taking grease (for the first time ever!). I can see it coming out on both sides near the crankshaft pulley. Do y'all think I need to continue or can I just reassemble everything and call it good?



Patrick, I don't understand what bushings you're talking about here. Which bushings?

Hi mate, from tractordata.com - *Lift to full height (at pin): 3400 lbs [1542 kg] *Loader Model 100 - just cannot find one with a 99 loader.

Can anyone please clarify what does "Lift to full height (at pin)" actually mean? I personally don't have a clue on that one. :ashamed:
If that's at the bucket mounting pins a 99 loader might be nearing the limit at its current age, but should comfortably lift them.Axle pivot bushes great to hear they'll both now take grease - there's some wear in at least the rear one, but that's understandable, given its history. I'd suggest keep them both greased (especially on a loader that's being used), if the steering is Ok - call it good.

The bushes I mentioned on mine are about 7/8" OD, pressed into the drive flange at the engine end of the shaft, and 3/8" bolts through them into the front pulley. They only provide a bit of flex to cater for minor misalignment etc, but also carry the torque to drive the pump.