Main bolt replacement

[TomIre]

Is the "bolt" (it's threaded anyway) that supports the main weight bearing arm of the three point linkage or the back hoe a stock item somewhere or is it Brandon/model specific?
I went to put on my bush hog and noticed something was off. Turns out the lock washer and nut we're gone from one of the bolts. The threads were buggered from rubbing so I can't just replace the nut. Checked TSC and they didn't seem to have anything. I can check the local co-op and there is a general tractor repair shop nearby but neither will be open until tomorrow.
Photos show the messed up one near the intact one that is in place.
TIA for any assistance!

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

I doubt that would be an "off the shelf" bolt anywhere. That being said, a local machinist should be able to make you one, since you have the old one for a pattern.

 

[flyerdan]

It looks like those threads might roll back with a thread chaser, even compromised the application doesn't rely on tension, it's pretty much just to keep it in place.
A big fastener store might be able to chase it, or at least you could get another nut to file grooves in to make a chaser.
That's if the special bolt is ridiculously expensive or continents away, of course.

 

[TomIre]

It's definitely just to keep it in place. I thought about trying to "fix" it but not sure how to start.

Surely a manufacturer 's replacement part would be cheaper than machining a new one? I'd guess it would be standard across a range of their tractors. The 25 series at least.

 

[newbury]

It looks like you could fit in a normal bolt with an appropriate size bushing (pipe) over it, sort of like a Cat 2 to a Cat 1 Lift Arm Bushing I use.

Now I warn you, these are expensive $2.29@ but you might be able to fashion a piece out of some thin pipe.

 

[mrmikey]

As FD said, clean up the threads and use a flat washer and a locknut or even some blue Loctite. I despise lockwashers, they break and don't do nuttin. Another option would be a castellated nut but you'd have to drill a cross hole in the end thru the threads.
Another option would be to rethread it a smaller size..............Mike

 

[Diggin It]

I'd take it to the tractor places mentioned. If they don't have it, try a truck/diesel shop. Then maybe some place like Fastenal or other fastener suppliers.

 

[ptsg]

An easier and cheap fix would be getting a shaft with the proper diameter and put to cotter pins on each side. Or weld a washer on one end and a pin on the other.

Another idea, if you have that tools for that, would be cut the thread portion off, drill and thread a hole and just use a bolt and washer.

Anyway, the bolt and bushings idea is also nice. That's probably metric, so keep that in mind.

That would could easily be done by a machinist, but since it's just one, the price will be really high.

 

[Diggin It]

An easier and cheap fix would be getting a shaft with the proper diameter and put to cotter pins on each side.

That's how my BH and FEL attach, but there is a keeper pin on one end that drops into a ring welded on the frame. Kind of hard to see in the BH Pin picture, but you can see it better in the FEL Pin picture below:

 

[LouNY]

I could see a couple of inexpensive options;
1) Are the holes in both ears the same diameter?
If so a large bolt the proper diameter, with a nut and washer.
2) It looks like a 3 point bushing might be the right diameter with a bolt thru it.
3) There should be minimal side loading on that pin, use a thread file or die and get the threads cleaned up and then use a nyloc nut.

4) Or it may be this part number TB44360000A4 [BOLT] which is around $20.

Luck

 

[TomIre]

Thanks so much for finding that part number. I'll call the dealer tomorrow! Seems common across several models. Maybe they'll stock it.

 

[ning]

I could see a couple of inexpensive options;
1) Are the holes in both ears the same diameter?
If so a large bolt the proper diameter, with a nut and washer.
2) It looks like a 3 point bushing might be the right diameter with a bolt thru it.
3) There should be minimal side loading on that pin, use a thread file or die and get the threads cleaned up and then use a nyloc nut.

4) Or it may be this part number TB44360000A4 [BOLT] which is around $20.

Luck

I've had a thought of replacing those bolts on my tractor with a heavy pin with lynch pin keepers to avoid needing a wrench to swap my 3PH with my backhoe. Any reason that needs to be a bolt w/ nut instead of a pin?

 

[mrmikey]

I've had a thought of replacing those bolts on my tractor with a heavy pin with lynch pin keepers to avoid needing a wrench to swap my 3PH with my backhoe. Any reason that needs to be a bolt w/ nut instead of a pin?

It looks as if there's a flat on one of the ears to prevent it from turning, that might be in the way. I wouldn't want it to turn while in use neither, I think it'd be more prone to wearing the ears, just my thoughts.............Mike

 

[Leejohn]

Looks like a shoulder bolt to me. Might try the hardware store and see if they have that size.

 

[ning]

It looks as if there's a flat on one of the ears to prevent it from turning, that might be in the way. I wouldn't want it to turn while in use neither, I think it'd be more prone to wearing the ears, just my thoughts.............Mike

I think the flat just makes it so you don't need two wrenches. Not sure why a pin would spin with either a backhoe or a 3ph lower arm on it.

 

[TomIre]

I've thought about replacing them too. Can't see any problems if you find the right size.

 

[Diggin It]

I've had a thought of replacing those bolts on my tractor with a heavy pin with lynch pin keepers to avoid needing a wrench to swap my 3PH with my backhoe. Any reason that needs to be a bolt w/ nut instead of a pin?

See post #9

.

 

[Leejohn]

Post #9 well do the job.

 

[LouNY]

A reason to use the factory bolt that sits against the shoulder or pins with retaining eyes is to reduce the wear on the bolt holes.
As the 3 point is raised and lowered the swivel ball is rotating around the pin the wear points are the pin which is held stationary and the swivel ball which can be replaced,
if you let the pin / bolt rotate the bolt holes will become the wear point, many times the bolt locations are not easily replaced or are part of the main casting.

 

[mrmikey]

if you let the pin / bolt rotate the bolt holes will become the wear point, many times the bolt locations are not easily replaced or are part of the main casting.

That was my point in post #13 also. yes, the balls are supposed to turn...key word 'supposed' .............mike