magnetic heater for HST

[ametcalf]

I am going to install a block heater on our BX23. This is the first HST I have owned and the book is quite specific about how long to let the tractor warm up when it is cold. Has anyone ever done or would it be a good idea to put a magnetic type heater somewhere on the HST so that when you plug in the block heater you would also be preheating the transmission/hydraulic fluid?

 

[RoyJackson]

Magnetic heaters do not have a good reputation...try a search on TBN for some real world experiences.

 

[JoeL4330]

I believe you will be just fine with a block heater ...if you wanted to add something else, I would suggest a batterytender/minder or equivalent ...and, of course, a winter fuel blend appropriate for your area and/or an additive like white Power Service...keeping a spare fuel filter on hand ain't a bad idea, either.

 

[bigdad]

I really doubt that you will need it........ especially in your area.

 

[grsthegreat]

Not sure how cold your winters get where you live. Here in N. Idaho we can get into the 20F some of the time, 0's alot of the time , and -30F some of the time.

I added some Wolverine glue on heaters to mine. A 125 watt for oil pan, 250 watt for HST unit.

I really like them, and they will get plugged in when temp gets into 20's and there on a timer. 2 hours in AM and 1 hr in PM.

USA Products

I have some magnetic heaters (Katz brand) and they work soso. I like the one i added to my backup generator but that only has 1-1/2 pints of oil to heat. There not that efficient. Im thinking of adding a Katz to that also, can do the same job for less electricity. Mag heaters have a high heat loss....

 

[EMB5530]

There are screw in heaters that look like electric hot water heaters that go in one of the bottom plugs in the tractors trans. dont know what is available for your tractor, but the only reason I know about these is in water and waste water plants we install these in most of the equipment for the military.
Had one installed on my 5530 but have not used it yet.
Oils do not transfer heat well, I know, but even a small warm spot in the oil that gets spread throughout is better than nothing. I would not recomend leaving it plugged in 24/7 but maybe a few hours before you go start her up.:thumbsup:

 

[firemech]

They want you to warm up the HST oil, it's not about how it starts. I live in northern Ontario and have a L3400 HST that I use to blow snow at -40 and I just idle the tractor for about 3-5 minutes then put it to work. I have 1800 hrs on it change the oil in the trans once a year. and have had no problems with the unit to this date

 

[Ford tractor]

Magnet heaters have a bad rep from being used on sheet metal oil pans. Used on a cast block, they won't hot spot and burn the oil. I don't have either a block heater or magnetic heater and it starts every winter even when it was -33F. Brrrr that's cold in an open station tractor by the way...

I found a pretty decent dance to make the tractor better for winter use. Here's what I do and it starts when you shut it off!

1) drop the 3pt to the ground and put the lever all the way down. If it's up and the implement sagged, the starter will try to pump cold hydro fluid and that will REALLY drag it down.

2) Set the rpm's to about 1500 then shut it off.

3) Cycle the glow plugs twice and both put it in N and have the clutch down to start. After the 2nd glow cycle, then crank and it should catch.

4) with the clutch down, let it run for a couple minutes. It will probably be down around 1100-1300 rpm depending on the temp and oil viscosity. When it comes up in rpm, let up the clutch. The rpms will instantly drop as it starts pumping cold fluid. I've popped several of the older style HST filters at this point at -20F and colder. Makes a mess to pump out the whole tranny on the shed floor.

5) After a couple minutes the rpm's will come up to 1300-1400 and go. Typically, there is still 5-10 minutes of tractor moving before it gets a load. Load it too soon and you can have issues.

6) run it HARD when it's warm for AT LEAST an hour to burn off condensed moisture and moisture from blowby. If you don't you WILL build up a lot of water in the oil and water is a poor lubricant.

 

[lawn_king]

I use my machine for commercial snow work after the plowing is done. I dont have a block heater & quite often i trailer my machine @ night to jobsites in deep cold! I start my tractor & let it run a full 10 minutes @ 1000 rpm before i cycle any hydraulics. Ten years of snow work with no problems.

 

[srs]

i trailer my machine @ night to jobsites in deep cold! I start my tractor & let it run a full 10 minutes @ 1000 rpm before i cycle any hydraulics. Ten years of snow work with no problems.

Lawn_king, don't know if this would apply to you or not but if you had a short distance to travel to a job you might want to try this.
When I had the foundation dug at my previous house it was bitter cold out. I watched the dump truck pull up towing a large Caterpillar dozer on his trailer. As I walked over to the dozer I realized it was idling. Since the operator didn't live too far away he started it up at his home/business and then drove to my lot. After he removed to tie-down chains he climbed into a warm dozer with the engine already warmed up. I thought that was pretty cool! (pardon the pun).

 

[oldballs]

I'm just amatuer, but hauling any running rig sounds dangerous to me...even for short distances....but could be done without incident...probably.

 

[RaydaKub]

When I was a kid, we had a record setting winter. The local contractors were hired to supplement the county and township plows. About the only time the bulldozers were shut off that winter was to change the oil. They ran steady for like 3 months. Didn't matter if they were hauled or driven.

 

[ametcalf]

Well I finally got to install the block heater on our BX23 yesterday. It worked out well but it was quite a saga. The BX23 uses the screw in type heater that mounts near the rear of the block on the right side of the tractor. To get the plug out where the heater goes you have to remove a plug that takes a 17MM allen wrench. I didn't have one but I have a few metric bolts on hand so I figured, "No problem." First I stuck the head of the bolt in the socket and tried to turn it with vise grips--no luck. Next I welded an SAE bolt along side of the 17MM figuring I could use a breaker bar on the SAE bolt and it would force the 17MM bolt to unscrew the plug. Wrong again, the head of the metric bolt just twisted right off. Next my wife stopped at TSC and they didn't have a 17MM allen wrench, called ace hardware--same story. Called Harbor Freight and they had several choices. By this time I was not sure I would be able to get an allen wrench to work because of the space and how tight the plug was. I bought a set of 3/8--1/2 inch drive allen wrenches (Item # 67880) on sale for $12.99. I am glad I did because with a 24" breaker bar it was about all I could do to break the plug loose. Back in the seventies I was a plumber and changed a few electric water heater elements without draining the tank so I decided to go that route. I ran the tractor for a little while just to let it start warming up. I shut it off and released the pressure on the radiator cap. I then put the cap back on and let the tractor cool down so that the radiator was pulling just a little negative pressure. I had pipe dope on the heating element. I screwed the plug out and screwed the element in right away. Lost less than a cup of water in the process. Alls well that ends well but that plug was sure not willing to come out easily.
A Metcalf

 

[srs]

I'm just amatuer, but hauling any running rig sounds dangerous to me...even for short distances....but could be done without incident...probably.

Why do you feel this is dangerous?