M59 HST no go?

[M59 gray]

Can you post the link to how to check for errors?

I’ll try again. The codes on the panel.
As my memory serves?
Push both the speed button and mode at the same time. Turn key to start. Then ABCD appears, push mode again to get EFGHI then select G and toggle through error codes if they appear?
Best I can remember)))

 

[rScotty]

Yes, I read that. My column speed shifter seams to trigger properly as read on the panel. Still may be but does not seam to be it?
I’m going to double check the reaction control rotary switch tomorrow? Could be as I took the cover panel off and had to remove that switch? May have damaged it? It does control over the speed of action?

Why did you take that cover off? Looking for clues to the no go??

I took mine off - I forget why now ... maybe for curiousity.... and my hardest task to getting that cover off was figuring out how to gently remove the plastic knobs on the levers.
After some thought, I made up a tool by making a saw cut half way down the length of some scrap wood. Clamp aroind the lever and lift. Off pops the cap.

The next hardest part of removing the cover was dealing with the wires up to the switches mounted in that cover. The wires unplug from the switch connectors, but Kubota made the wires just exactly long enough to reach the switches and not an inch longer, making it difficult to get a hand under the cover to remove the wire connectors from the switches without breaking something. Of course I did - I broke the illuminated push button forward by the FEL control - its the FEL hydraulic valve switch. Kubota had a gold plated one for about the price of a steak dinner (with wine) but It had an industrial part number stamped on it. so I ordered it on Amazon for two bucks. Same exact switch.
rScotty

 

[M59 gray]

Why did you take that cover off? Looking for clues to the no go??

I took mine off - I forget why now ... maybe for curiousity.... and my hardest task to getting that cover off was figuring out how to gently remove the plastic knobs on the levers.
After some thought, I made up a tool by making a saw cut half way down the length of some scrap wood. Clamp aroind the lever and lift. Off pops the cap.

The next hardest part of removing the cover was dealing with the wires up to the switches mounted in that cover. The wires unplug from the switch connectors, but Kubota made the wires just exactly long enough to reach the switches and not an inch longer, making it difficult to get a hand under the cover to remove the wire connectors from the switches without breaking something. Of course I did - I broke the illuminated push button forward by the FEL control - its the FEL hydraulic valve switch. Kubota had a gold plated one for about the price of a steak dinner (with wine) but It had an industrial part number stamped on it. so I ordered it on Amazon for two bucks. Same exact switch.
rScotty

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[M59 gray]

Great pictures and info! Your cover panel is in much better condition than mine. Yes, I tool it off to see what linkages did what and if something was off? Nope. That wire is short and I disconnected it pulling too hard by accident so I’ll check on it tomorrow. Also, my unit had the front third function but that push button switch is missing? I looked it up—-nearly 200$ !!!!! If you could share the off brand part replacement with me that would be great.
So I’m going to check on that travel reaction speed control as it could be the issue??????
I need to get a functioning switch into that hole below the loader control.
I think they disabled it to limit the function being triggered or—-they broke it? They broke the loader control arm at its base under the boot and bugger welded it onto the flat plate??? Yup- classy repaired of horrible abuse.
I’ve spend the last two days repairing the top frame plates on one of the backhoe stabilizers. How they managed to bend the top pin and the frame flanges only Murphy knows. I’ll have it repaired soon but had to cut the plates and weld to get them aligned right.
Enough horror stories. Just need to get the tranny and travel working and the rest is just some TLC and parts.
Hope you can share to help.
Thanks,
Gray

 

[M59 gray]

Why did you take that cover off? Looking for clues to the no go??

I took mine off - I forget why now ... maybe for curiousity.... and my hardest task to getting that cover off was figuring out how to gently remove the plastic knobs on the levers.
After some thought, I made up a tool by making a saw cut half way down the length of some scrap wood. Clamp aroind the lever and lift. Off pops the cap.

The next hardest part of removing the cover was dealing with the wires up to the switches mounted in that cover. The wires unplug from the switch connectors, but Kubota made the wires just exactly long enough to reach the switches and not an inch longer, making it difficult to get a hand under the cover to remove the wire connectors from the switches without breaking something. Of course I did - I broke the illuminated push button forward by the FEL control - its the FEL hydraulic valve switch. Kubota had a gold plated one for about the price of a steak dinner (with wine) but It had an industrial part number stamped on it. so I ordered it on Amazon for two bucks. Same exact switch.
rScotty

View attachment 850416View attachment 850417View attachment 850418

I used a vise grip and a small flat nail bar to pry them off. Same function.
Yours is nicer on the metal lever arms. As I mentioned- I really need a new push button third function switch?.

 

[rScotty]

Great pictures and info! Your cover panel is in much better condition than mine. Yes, I tool it off to see what linkages did what and if something was off? Nope. That wire is short and I disconnected it pulling too hard by accident so I’ll check on it tomorrow. Also, my unit had the front third function but that push button switch is missing? I looked it up—-nearly 200$ !!!!! If you could share the off brand part replacement with me that would be great.
So I’m going to check on that travel reaction speed control as it could be the issue??????
I need to get a functioning switch into that hole below the loader control.
I think they disabled it to limit the function being triggered or—-they broke it? They broke the loader control arm at its base under the boot and bugger welded it onto the flat plate??? Yup- classy repaired of horrible abuse.
I’ve spend the last two days repairing the top frame plates on one of the backhoe stabilizers. How they managed to bend the top pin and the frame flanges only Murphy knows. I’ll have it repaired soon but had to cut the plates and weld to get them aligned right.
Enough horror stories. Just need to get the tranny and travel working and the rest is just some TLC and parts.
Hope you can share to help.
Thanks,
Gray

It is a mystery to me how and why Kubota made those wires to the panel switches so short. My first guess is they used some sort of micro-robotics. Or maybe they suspended the panel in mid-air, and then assembled the entire rest of the tractor around and under it.

What I did was to extend all the wires by six inches, tuck them neatly away where they are protected and can't get into trouble.

$200 for a Kubota 3rd function switch?? That is just a standard switch. Kubota doesn't make them, they buy them. Amazon sells them for ten bucks. In fact, the ones on Amazon are the same industrial switch designation, but a much higher quality. I replaced that front push button on/off switch with a much nicer one from Amazon for ten bucks.
Amazon claims to have 80 pages of this type of switches....If I ever need evidence that the manufacturing world has gone mad, I will point to 80 pages of different companies making essentially the same switch for about the same price.

The retail switch prices range from a couple of bucks (without LED) to $15 with choice of LED colors.
I actually bought several and threw the unused ones in the electrical drawer to see if they would reproduce. Near as I can tell, all the switches are the same high quality & they all work the same. Some have sockets, some have colored wires, others are push-on connectors. Key words are: 12V, 10 amp, on/off latching, 16mm (5/8"). and the designation "1NO1NC" or something close to that.

ABOUT THAT LOADER CONTROL: The M59 FEL joystick can get sticky. Pull back the boot, and beneath the M59 loader control joystick is a fantasically over-complicated series of little levers and adjustments that pull cables in sheaths going down to the actual loader control valve which is positioned in the much harsher wet and muddy environment beneath the deck. The relay-actuated FEL aux hydraulic valve is down there in the mud too. If you figure out how to lubricate those joints and cables, all the controls sure works better.
Enjoy,
rScotty

 

[M59 gray]

It is a mystery to me how and why Kubota made those wires to the panel switches so short. My first guess is they used some sort of micro-robotics. Or maybe they suspended the panel in mid-air, and then assembled the entire rest of the tractor around and under it.

What I did was to extend all the wires by six inches, tuck them neatly away where they are protected and can't get into trouble.

$200 for a Kubota 3rd function switch?? That is just a standard switch. Kubota doesn't make them, they buy them. Amazon sells them for ten bucks. In fact, the ones on Amazon are the same industrial switch designation, but a much higher quality. I replaced that front push button on/off switch with a much nicer one from Amazon for ten bucks.
Amazon claims to have 80 pages of this type of switches....If I ever need evidence that the manufacturing world has gone mad, I will point to 80 pages of different companies making essentially the same switch for about the same price.

The retail switch prices range from a couple of bucks (without LED) to $15 with choice of LED colors.
I actually bought several and threw the unused ones in the electrical drawer to see if they would reproduce. Near as I can tell, all the switches are the same high quality & they all work the same. Some have sockets, some have colored wires, others are push-on connectors. Key words are: 12V, 10 amp, on/off latching, 16mm (5/8"). and the designation "1NO1NC" or something close to that.

ABOUT THAT LOADER CONTROL: The M59 FEL joystick can get sticky. Pull back the boot, and beneath the M59 loader control joystick is a fantasically over-complicated series of little levers and adjustments that pull cables in sheaths going down to the actual loader control valve which is positioned in the much harsher wet and muddy environment beneath the deck. The relay-actuated FEL aux hydraulic valve is down there in the mud too. If you figure out how to lubricate those joints and cables, all the controls sure works better.
Enjoy,
rScotty

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Super! Thank you so much. So that switch is a single pull single throw?
I thought there were 4 wires going to it meaning maybe something different? If yours had only 2 wires then that’s what I will do.
Yes, the loader valve is mounted on the outside of the frame? My protective covers were ripped off????
I think they used it as a brush dozer(((((((. Not good.
Still have to get it to move? Thanks for sticking with me on this thread as your experience is great!
Gray

 

[Smokeydog]

rScotty has been a great help to many and I as well. Very knowledgeable and articulate in explaining functions and repairs.

My M59 has to survive and thrive in brush infested environment. Several modifications of armor has improved survivability. One was to improve protection of the tender loader control valve innards.
Being able to safely carry chainsaw, chains, and other tools a plus.

 

[rScotty]

Super! Thank you so much. So that switch is a single pull single throw?
I thought there were 4 wires going to it meaning maybe something different? If yours had only 2 wires then that’s what I will do.
Yes, the loader valve is mounted on the outside of the frame? My protective covers were ripped off????
I think they used it as a brush dozer(((((((. Not good.
Still have to get it to move? Thanks for sticking with me on this thread as your experience is great!
Gray

I'm glad you asked. None of this is self explanatory to an old toggle switch guy. I had the same questions.

The M59 3rd Function activation switch by the loader control valve is a third class of switch: a "clamping push button". It does works like an on/off pull switch in reverse, in that one push latches the button down and completes the primary circuit of 12V/10A to work the solenoid activating the 3rd function.
And then a second push releases the latch, opening the circuit and raising the depressed button back up to its resting state.

But that is not all that happens. You can't really say it is a true single pole, because when activated it also steals a little power for a parallel circuit to light an internal LED showing that it is activated. So internally it is a Double Pole, but to the external world it is a Single Pole.

Normally it will have 4 wires going to it, and they are arranged between the 5 connectors on the switch as shown below. I used the upper diagram so the switch only lights up when 3rd funtion is activated.

Just order one. It comes with a wiring sheet. As for which color Kubota wires goes to what terminals... I had to trace them.
rScotty

 

[rScotty]

Yes, the loader valve is mounted on the outside of the frame? My protective covers were ripped off????
I think they used it as a brush dozer(((((((. Not good.
Still have to get it to move? Thanks for sticking with me on this thread as your experience is great!
Gray

The loader valves are mounted down low almost directly below the HST foot treadle. They do have a nice cover that keeps brush from hitting them, but the cover also can allow them to become packed with mud or dirt. To access the loader control valve & 3rd function valve, begin by removing the lower cover on the right side that has the yellow warning sticker "NO STEP". After a few bolts and covers, this is what you will see. You can see why it should be a maintenance point.
I believe a bicycle cable oiler will allow lubing the cables from below - but have not done that.
rScotty