Looking at entry level welder

   / Looking at entry level welder #1  

shooterdon

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I have no experience and am overwhelmed by the number of offerings in the sub $150 range. My first project will be welding up some Unistrut but I would like to be able to go up to 1/4" wall if possible. I have 110 and 220V available.

Seems like a unit that does MIG and stick would be a good choice.

Any thoughts, advice and recommendations?
 
   / Looking at entry level welder #2  
Have you given any thought to your budget? Recommendations can vary by price.
 
   / Looking at entry level welder #3  
Harbor Freight - Titanium 225
 
   / Looking at entry level welder #4  
Don’t forget to be careful with welding galvanized metals
 
   / Looking at entry level welder #5  
Although I have an assortment of the Titanium line from HFT, the Yeswelder options are a better deal and have quite the following online...

Not sure I'd bother with a multi process, I have a couple but it took me years to get to anything else... if you want to do stick get a cheap used Lincoln tombstone, they go for $50-100 all the time on facebook and craigslist... flux core will be much more user friendly though.

I agree, if doing anything with galvanized grind it off then do it outside with a fan blowing the fumes away from you...
 
   / Looking at entry level welder #6  
My recommendation is a little more expensive, but a Lincoln 180 Dual is a one and done welder for the occasional welder, by one and done, I mean, buying a cheaper welder to learn on, then buying another welder to upgrade later. Buy a good one to start with, and you'll never have to buy another, unless you really get into welding. The Millermatic 211 would also be an excellent choice as a one and done welder. I am a well seasoned welder, and I have run them both, and they are great welders. They both are dual voltage, 110v and 220v. The both will do MIG (wire feed w/shielding gas), and FCAW (wire feed-flux core) welding. You can also look into the Hobart welders and the Forney welders. I was also very pleased with my buddies 110v Forney MIG welder he bought from Napa for around $200. I have a large and expensive Hobart MIG welder, and love it, I also have a Millermatic 255, and love it, but the Lincoln 180 dual is my go-to machine for most of my projects.
 
   / Looking at entry level welder
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I should have stated my budget is $500 to get the machine, auto dimming helmet and other 'stuff' to get started.

For the type and quantity of work I will be doing, I cannot justify investing more. That is why I was interested in the $150 machines that seem to get decent reviews on Amazon.

I have a buddy with a stick welder so I may borrow his for a while to see if this is something I want to spend more money on but I hate borrowing stuff.

One question for those who have welded Unistrut. It is galvanized so that is a concern. Is it worth dealing with or should I just purchase square tubing to be safe and make things easier?
 
   / Looking at entry level welder #8  
I started with a Millermatic 175 sometime in the 90's and was pretty happy. If I had it to do over it would be a MM211.

For the stick welder I went with an Everlast 200STi a couple years ago. For the amps I use (under 130A at 240V) it has a 100% duty cycle.
 
   / Looking at entry level welder #9  
What do you want to fabricate?

I wouldn't want to weld strut because of the galvanization and the shape of the strut. Square tube would be my preference.

As for welders, yes welder and Harbor Freight are both popular options, especially on sale.

If you buy a mig, I'd get some Lincoln wire because it seems to spatter less although the yes welder wire on Az has good ratings. I've welded with the Lincoln, but haven't personally worked with the yes welder wire.
 
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   / Looking at entry level welder
  • Thread Starter
#10  
What do you want to fabricate?

I wouldn't want to weld strut because of the galvanization and the shape of the strut. Square tube would be my preference.

As for welders, yes welder and Harbor Freight are both popular options, especially on sale.

If you buy a mig, I'd get some Lincoln wire because it seems to spatter less although the yes welder wire on Az has good ratings. I've welded with the Lincoln, but haven't personally worked with the yes welder wire.
This is typical of the kind of things I want to make:


Not bad at $300 delivered but I need a different size for the bulk wood bags I am using.
 
   / Looking at entry level welder #11  
Just a quick search.....

IMG_6951.jpeg
 
   / Looking at entry level welder #12  
Couple of thoughts:

You say you have no experience. Before welding something like the example (lifts 4,000#) I'd get some experience.

I wouldn't use strut if you're looking at that capacity.

Welding galvanized requires some very good ventilation to avoid damage to your lungs. With care there's no problem. When I weld galvanized steel I always grind the galvanizing off where it gets welded. Generally, if the grinder is throwing sparks, you've removed enough to weld it.

WIF (Welding Is Fun) so go ahead and get to it:)
 
   / Looking at entry level welder #13  
I don't see a hint of square tubing in your example. I see round, channel and flats. Simple job to copy. Keep it simple. Your welds will be the weak points. Drill pipe will be stronger than square tubing.
 
   / Looking at entry level welder #14  
Take some classes! Welding has a steep learning curve.
 
   / Looking at entry level welder #15  
Rather than spend $500 on welder stuff, I wonder if a set of SSQA forks might be worth considering?
 
   / Looking at entry level welder
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Just to share more info.

The bags I lift weigh about 1600 lbs. Here is a picture of the lifter I had made locally, and it has no issue handling the weight:

Bulk Bag SSQA Attachment.jpg


The PITA with it is having to thread the loops over the "forks" when moving bags around. I have thought about making a frame to hold the loops open as I move forward but when the bag is on sitting on the pallet or ground the sides are not always lined up due to the flex in the bag and the wood squishing the bag around.

I think having a "cross" frame I can sit on the bag with hooks for the loops will be easier to use. Then have pockets on the cross frame for the forks. It should be easy to level the cross frame by adjusting the wood splits in the bag.

There will not be much load. Maximum distance from the lift point to the hooks will be about 12" and there is 400 lbs of weight at each hook.
 
   / Looking at entry level welder #17  
I would not use strut for that. Part of the problem is making the bag holder strong enough that it doesn't get warped in use. If that bag just had some wire stiffeners like yard leaf bags to hold it open and hold the loops open, that alone would help.
 
   / Looking at entry level welder #18  
Think you are really going to be disappointed with the $150 machine.... The thing about welding is the machine is never big enough to do the projects that keep getting bigger and bigger..... Found that out when I got Hobart Handler 140 ($700) and now long for a Hobart 210MVP ($1200) because projects out classed smaller machine.... IF you are going with a 120V machine go to top line of capabilities as the limit out at about 1/4 inch (140 AMP) .... Anything smaller is just playing with frustration as a partner....
 
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   / Looking at entry level welder #19  
   / Looking at entry level welder #20  
I would definitely look on the used market but yeah I'd lean toward a dual voltage unit at least, you're going to want 1/8" wall tubing or pipe at least, don't think strut is going to hold up... that's the top of the 125A cheap units, the Titanium unlimited 140 would probably cut it but you'd get a better deal in the used market like posted above...

I would practice a fair amount before jumping in to a final project, on youtube I think it's weld.com with their videos, they're really good, I learn stuff from them but I'm not professional just a hobby welder...
 

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