Logsplitter 2.0

[Ford850]

Thank you. I've never seen those, but now I'll have to try one.

 

[rswyan]

Thank you. I've never seen those, but now I'll have to try one.

Ford,

They are definitely worth checking out IMO. They work great for heavy material removal, where you aren't that concerned about the finish, or where finishing will be a later step. The one I got from Kromhard was a Carborundum brand wheel.

I was using it to grind some bevels on parts to be welded last night and found it to be much quicker than the regular type 2 grinding discs that I normally would have used.

Using it takes a little getting used to though ... the height of the wheel and how far it sticks out being one thing, and the weight of it being another. Another thing is the speed rating - I think the wheel I have is rated for 9080 rpm max ...

My Milwaukee angle grinder does a few thousand more than that - so I use a Harbor Freight router speed control (tip of the hat to JJ) to slow it down a bit. You can pick up the speed controls for around $18 or so when they are on sale I think.

One more thing is that you really need a pretty decent angle grinder if you're going to run it on a 4 1/2" unit for any length of time. My Milwaukee handled it with no problem for quite a while ... after the Milwaukee started getting warm, I swapped it over to the two HF grinders I have. They got warm pretty quickly.

You asked how much was left of the wheel ... so I took a pic last night.

... this much :

 

[mikehaugen]

So is "snagging wheel" a technical term? What would be a name to search for? I have a metabo 6" grinder that maxes at 9000 that I think would be perfect.

 

[ajmaxham]

Flaring Cup Grinding Wheels.

Flaring Cup Wheels (Type 11) - Steel, Cast Iron - Aluminum Oxide, Plain Back

PFERD ｻ Grinding & Cut-Off Wheels ｻ Snagging Wheels: Type 1, Type 11, Cones, Plugs ｻ Flaring Cup Wheels (Type 11) ｻ Steel, Cast Iron - Aluminum Oxide, Plain Back

click for larger image
Plain Back and Steel Back Type 11 Flaring cup wheels are commonly used in grinding and snagging operations, especially in foundries on right angle grinders for removing gates, risers and parting lines from castings. Type 11 Cup Wheels provide a large surface contact area, and are produced with a high amount of abrasive grain. This ensures high performance removal rates, especially on high power tools. PFERD range includes Aluminum Oxide, Silicon Carbide and Zirconia grain types. Choose Steel Back for added strength, durability and maximum safety in severe applications.





EDP Diameter (Inches) Thickness (Inches) Thickness (mm) Thread Size Wall Thickness (Inches) Wall Thickness (mm) Grit Max. RPM
61808 4 x 3-1/2 2 50 5/8-11 1 25 16 8,600
61809 5 x 3-3/4 2 50 5/8-11 1-1/2 40 16 7,600
61810 6 x 4-3/4 2 50 5/8-11 1-1/2 40 16 6,300

 

[rswyan]

So is "snagging wheel" a technical term?

"Snagging" is the technical term for the type of grinding being done - which I provided the definition of earlier, "snagging wheel" is the technical term for the type of disc, or rather wheel, that is commonly used to do it.

What would be a name to search for?

Try "snagging wheel" ...

I have a metabo 6" grinder that maxes at 9000 that I think would be perfect.

Yup ... you should be good ...

Just make sure to get an appropriate sized wheel (not too big) ... I'm using a 4" wheel on my Milwaukee 4 1/2" angle grinder.

 

[muddstopper]

1in scrap piece I was testing my home made track torch on. Made a pretty slick cut for minimal grinding. Only pic I have but cutting beats the heck out of grinding

 

[Depmandog]

Definitely getting closer to being a splitting wedge ... the edge is down to around 1/4" wide ... so I still have a bit to go : <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/build-yourself/410250-logsplitter-2-0-a-img_1926-jpg"/>

Just an idea, why not run a couple beads of weld on top of that 1/4", then grind that down to a point? Would sure save a heck of a lot of grinding...

 

[muddstopper]

I tried the welding and grinding on one of my blades. I had some rods a railroad track welder gave me. Some sort of hardening rod. Welded pretty good, but grinding it to a edge was a bear. What ever was in that rod was super hard. Did work very well, razor sharp and still holding a edge.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

Sounds like a good idea to me less grinding and a harder edge. I've got 30 or 40 lbs of Lincoln Abrasoweld that would be just the ticket when I get to mine. Would be nice to finally get to use some of it considering how many times I've moved the box of them and never burnt a single rod yet. One of those "I'll just hang onto this until I can find a use" that's lasted more than 20 yrs

 

[rswyan]

1in scrap piece I was testing my home made track torch on. Made a pretty slick cut for minimal grinding.

Very slick indeed ... :thumbsup:

Only pic I have but cutting beats the heck out of grinding

Without a doubt ... which is why I was using the torch to remove material prior to grinding.

The less grinding the better as far as I'm concerned ... and if I have to do it, I'd prefer it goes quickly.

The torch I have isn't actually mine (it's a neighbors), don't have a track set up for it, I think there is only one tip - which I think is a smaller or medium sized one ... and I'm a total novice when it comes to torch work ...

 

[rswyan]

Just an idea, why not run a couple beads of weld on top of that 1/4", then grind that down to a point?

Good idea ... :thumbsup:

Nice to see someone using their head for something other than just a place to store a hat (like I do ... :laughing

Would sure save a heck of a lot of grinding...

I'd think ...

I carved on it a little more the other night after I made the post you quoted ... the edge is down to around 1/8" or so in spots.

Basically what I plan to do at this point - now that I've got the bandsaw up and running again - is a cut a couple of pieces of 1" solid square cold roll at the appropriate angle and then weld those onto either side of the wedge ... so the wedge can be mounted in the vise on a friend's lathe/mini-mill ...

I'm hoping that it will clean up relatively quickly/easily.

Again, this is a bit out of the realm of any expertise I have, but I'm thinking light cuts, with the milling bit running at a high speed, with the milling head itself running at a slow traverse speed.

 

[rswyan]

Found my Surplus Center folder last night and was looking at the invoice for the Barnes pump I purchased from them originally and it appears that it was actually a 13 gpm pump not an 11 gpm ...

I think I'll be ok, as they list 6.5 hp as the minimum for that size pump.

 

[muddstopper]

Very slick indeed ... :thumbsup:


Without a doubt ... which is why I was using the torch to remove material prior to grinding.

The less grinding the better as far as I'm concerned ... and if I have to do it, I'd prefer it goes quickly.

The torch I have isn't actually mine (it's a neighbors), don't have a track set up for it, I think there is only one tip - which I think is a smaller or medium sized one ... and I'm a total novice when it comes to torch work ...

when cutting bevels, it takes a pretty big sized tip. I used a #2 to cut the angles on the 1in metal in my picture. I have a #3 I can use if I want a longer slope on the edge. When you get down to it, you are cutting thru 2-3 inches of metal when you cut a long slopeing edge. The right size tip can save a ton of grinding.

 

[rswyan]

when cutting bevels, it takes a pretty big sized tip. I used a #2 to cut the angles on the 1in metal in my picture. I have a #3 I can use if I want a longer slope on the edge.

Yeah ... I think the tip on the torch here is a #1 (?) ... and I think it's the only one he has ...

When you get down to it, you are cutting thru 2-3 inches of metal when you cut a long slopeing edge. The right size tip can save a ton of grinding.

Right.

 

[oldtimer 66]

rswyan where I did work we had what was called a chamfer burn operation. It was basically a track burner with a bevel head torch arrangement. It pre heated in front of the cutting tip. It is more than a hobbyist like myself could afford but that is how large deep chamfers are done with OFC-X. Here is a link maybe of what I am talking about. This is not exactly the same head but similar. http://www.bugo.com/administrator/files/downloadables/Torch_Bro_9_13_1379432409.pdf We would bevel/chamfer anywhere from .50 plate to over 2.0 inch plate and larger at times and with multiple heads. One automated setups had 4 of the bevel head attachments. Just some info. Later

 

[2458n]

Mikehaugen how did your Metabo hold up? I like mine to much to try it. Like the idea of you doing the test run. Thanks for the post a good source of ideas.

 

[mikehaugen]

Mikehaugen how did your Metabo hold up? I like mine to much to try it. Like the idea of you doing the test run. Thanks for the post a good source of ideas.

I haven't tried yet, although this thread got me curious as I had never seen them before. I'll eventually get one and give it a go. I wouldn't be worried about the grinder, that is why I usually try to buy good tools... they instill more confidence. Of course if you do mess them up it costs a lot more :laughing: Any weldor/metalworker I have talked to claims metabo holds up the best.

 

[rswyan]

Taking LD1's concerns to heart, I did a little upgrade to the main gusset on the pusher block, welding in another section of 3/4" plate to make it taller:

Still have to weld on the two addition gussets that are intended to help keep the pusher block straight, side to side, on the H-Beam.

 

[rswyan]

Also got the table for the valves built:

I designed and built it so it could be removed easily:

 

[rswyan]

RSWYAN we must think alike I have 3 right angle grinders also one with a cutoff wheel an other with the hard disk and the last with the flap wheel how about that later

Great minds think alike ?

... lol ...