Traction Logging with industrials

   / Logging with industrials #31  
Arrow,

Pete's Tires -Locations has locations in New England and Providence and you can get the 9.5x24 for $425 delivered plus $70 for new tubes. Mounting these is a half day - I have done many and its not hard. Loading them is more costly and why do that.. and for that matter sell it as is.

Since you are selling/trading I would show the potential buyer if they think the tires are a problem tell them $550 to replace both and advertise it for $7900 locally on CL and if they want to have new tires tell them $8400.

I would sell it as is and if you can get $7500 then you have cash to negotiate, or if financing, you are in a better position to negotiate. The dealer will put it on his lot and will ask $8K probably and if they want new tires he will "add it on".
 
   / Logging with industrials #32  
R4's are good for certain things.

but will take my AG's / R1's if had a choice.

it is the "unknown" sudden muddy patch. that R4's will begin to spin and slide. vs R1's that will keep on digging in and rutting but will pull themselves right on through. been up axle deep and keep on going. while R4's would of had me stuck.

=================

tire tread is a big factor. had to put new tires on the 555C TLB due to one tire dry rotted and cracked out the side wall a good portion of it. tread difference between new and old. i would say old had 70% tread left. it was a completely different machine with new rear tires on it. granted i still got myself stuck, and had to break out the FEL and backhoe to get my rear up to better ground. but to slight mud patches to wet grass were i use to slip the tires or simply slide side ways on a hill i would not with the new rear tires.

if i had R1's on the rear of the 555c TLB. there would be no doubt i would keep on going. BUT! the problem with the 555c TLB. is it is so heavy, and doing a lot of dirt work. just having R1's on rear. i would be doing more time spending clean up ruts than actual working the tractor. vs the R4's that yes do rut, but the ruts are so wide and not as deep that it is fairly easy to clean up the ruts.

on the old allis chalmers CA tractor i do have AGs / R1's on it and it is primarly only does finishing mowing. yes R1's can and do tear up the yard, when i make a sudden sharp turn. *coughs some* i like doing tight 360 donuts spins around trees in high gear while mowing. and if it just rained in last day or so. you can really see the tire impressions in the yard. and perhaps even a chunk of sod ripped up. if i was on a heavier tractor things would be worse for sure. but *shrugs*. just do not think R1's will tear up yard as soon as you roll them on to the yard. any tire will, including R4's will tear up the yard, and if it is to wet it is just plain to wet and muddy to drive anything on the yard. and you will need to just wait another day perhaps 2 to drive on yard without tearing things up, when doing anything major that involves more weight. from logging to moving dirt to other.

=========================
chains due make a large difference. and so does 4wd. so does an experienced operator more so operator use to the machine. prefer to have differential lock, and left/right rear steering brakes on opposite foot than the gas / go / hst pedal. 4wd is not always what it is cracked up to be.

=========================

ply rating. personally prefer a higher ply rating. granted higher ply rating means a much rougher ride. i do not remember the specifics of various ply ratings. and why's and why nots for this or that. but it was worth spending extra cash towards higher ply rating for me. i think a bigger thing for me was dealing with thorns, and higher ply rating meant thicker rubber of the tires. and in that less chance of a leak due to a thorn or nail or something else. and higher ply rating meant more weight capacity for the tires?

=========================
i truly hate skidding logs with chains wrapped around the log. i have torn up costly chains, and destroyed my yard, and had to re-attach chains, and re adjust were tractor was multi times to get chains unhooked from around logs. and still waiting to come across. "forgets there name" see attached image skid trees.png just a single chain between 3pt hitch draw bar, and this thing what ever it is called.

==========================
old gear manual transmission type might be more beneficial more so if it has a creeper gear for log skidding.
 
   / Logging with industrials #33  
19796_lg.jpg

They are skidding tongs, But I also forgot the name, and I just went to Northern's website, and typed in logging, and luckily I found them... I have been thinking about using that exact setup, and I thought of taking an extra draw bar that I have, putting wheels on the two parts that attach to the lift arms, and chaining that under the opposite end of the log that is not attached to the tractor, so I can drag it out of the woods better, without leaving a rut on the way out. This is the link to a basic skidding tong: Northern Industrial Steel Skidding Tongs — 32in. Jaw Width | Log Skidding| Northern Tool + Equipment
R4's are good for certain things.

but will take my AG's / R1's if had a choice.

it is the "unknown" sudden muddy patch. that R4's will begin to spin and slide. vs R1's that will keep on digging in and rutting but will pull themselves right on through. been up axle deep and keep on going. while R4's would of had me stuck.

=================

tire tread is a big factor. had to put new tires on the 555C TLB due to one tire dry rotted and cracked out the side wall a good portion of it. tread difference between new and old. i would say old had 70% tread left. it was a completely different machine with new rear tires on it. granted i still got myself stuck, and had to break out the FEL and backhoe to get my rear up to better ground. but to slight mud patches to wet grass were i use to slip the tires or simply slide side ways on a hill i would not with the new rear tires.

if i had R1's on the rear of the 555c TLB. there would be no doubt i would keep on going. BUT! the problem with the 555c TLB. is it is so heavy, and doing a lot of dirt work. just having R1's on rear. i would be doing more time spending clean up ruts than actual working the tractor. vs the R4's that yes do rut, but the ruts are so wide and not as deep that it is fairly easy to clean up the ruts.

on the old allis chalmers CA tractor i do have AGs / R1's on it and it is primarly only does finishing mowing. yes R1's can and do tear up the yard, when i make a sudden sharp turn. *coughs some* i like doing tight 360 donuts spins around trees in high gear while mowing. and if it just rained in last day or so. you can really see the tire impressions in the yard. and perhaps even a chunk of sod ripped up. if i was on a heavier tractor things would be worse for sure. but *shrugs*. just do not think R1's will tear up yard as soon as you roll them on to the yard. any tire will, including R4's will tear up the yard, and if it is to wet it is just plain to wet and muddy to drive anything on the yard. and you will need to just wait another day perhaps 2 to drive on yard without tearing things up, when doing anything major that involves more weight. from logging to moving dirt to other.

=========================
chains due make a large difference. and so does 4wd. so does an experienced operator more so operator use to the machine. prefer to have differential lock, and left/right rear steering brakes on opposite foot than the gas / go / hst pedal. 4wd is not always what it is cracked up to be.

=========================

ply rating. personally prefer a higher ply rating. granted higher ply rating means a much rougher ride. i do not remember the specifics of various ply ratings. and why's and why nots for this or that. but it was worth spending extra cash towards higher ply rating for me. i think a bigger thing for me was dealing with thorns, and higher ply rating meant thicker rubber of the tires. and in that less chance of a leak due to a thorn or nail or something else. and higher ply rating meant more weight capacity for the tires?

=========================
i truly hate skidding logs with chains wrapped around the log. i have torn up costly chains, and destroyed my yard, and had to re-attach chains, and re adjust were tractor was multi times to get chains unhooked from around logs. and still waiting to come across. "forgets there name" see attached image View attachment 278935 just a single chain between 3pt hitch draw bar, and this thing what ever it is called.

==========================
old gear manual transmission type might be more beneficial more so if it has a creeper gear for log skidding.
 
   / Logging with industrials #34  
I would buy it with R1s. Then 5 years from now buy a set of R4s and wheels. You might even be able to make a trade. Find some one that has R4s and wants R1s. Before going this route, I would make sure the swap could be made. That there are no internal gearing differences with the different types of tires.
 
   / Logging with industrials
  • Thread Starter
#35  
I would buy it with R1s. Then 5 years from now buy a set of R4s and wheels. You might even be able to make a trade. Find some one that has R4s and wants R1s. Before going this route, I would make sure the swap could be made. That there are no internal gearing differences with the different types of tires.

I need to weigh out the fact that with a deal, the R4's would probably cost over a thousand or more with wheels. If I were trading, it would have to be brand specific as everyone seems to offer a different bolt pattern. I just need the R4's not to be horrendous to skid up stems. If they prove unable to produce the grunt I need, then I'd have to consider chains. Most of the guys having little or no problem with R4's seem to have larger heavier tractors than what the 3016 is. The tractor with loaded ags comes in at 3600# and with loaded 43x1600x20 inds it weighs 4000#. It would be interesting to find out what weight differential is needed to overcome the less traction with R4's over the lighter tractor shod with R1's. That in itself could be a deciding factor.
 

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