Loader joystick cable break

[mechtheist]

I wasn't thinking pretzel, more like spiral with occasional bow or maybe bowier

The 3520's configuration has fairly short cables but those cables work fine in much longer versions so there's likely a large margin of excess friction to work with.

Just after waking, I was pondering the issue and I thought maybe not use a clamp at all, wrap wire around the cable directly, maybe use the tube with clamps to hold the wire more securely. It doesn't help that the bottom of the joystick housing is so close to the fender that the cable has to bend the way it does, likely helped to cause the problem in the first place, see photo. There's something about having all those hose clamps that kinda screams desperation. And I'm really slow on the uptake, I'm looking at the photo and just now realize I shoulda had the plastic tube up around the threads a ways [insert favorite facepalm here].

 

[Cougsfan]

Wow, Mechtheist, I am sorry you are having such a difficult time. One of the problems of describing all this is that all of us seem to use a little different terminology for the parts. Plus there are a lot of parts involved.
If, with your hose clamp fix, the sheath was not moving and it still didn't work, the problem must be in adjustment. If those wires on the sheath didn't go all the way back into the sleeve before you installed the hose ands clamps, the cable would not activate the controls in the push mode. The overall cable adjustment and movement range would be out of whack. That can be adjusted out at the bottom.
So was the sheath moving when you move the joystick? By the way, much smaller hose clamps available, which would work and look better and the plastic tube could indeed be much longer both directions to give better hold. But I agree the whole thing will look rather Rube Goldbergish.
I think you are correct in assuming that you can't get the cable completely disconnected at the top without disconnecting the bottom.

 

[mechtheist]

It hasn't been all that bad, there's a lot worse problems it could be. I got all the wires on the sheath back in the sleeve and it was definitely moving when I moved the stick to the right and then back in when I moved it to the left. I had all those clamps on there and cranked about as tight as they would go and it still slipped. I'm thinking the plastic tube was less gripping than your hose clamp alone, the overall cable has that kind of ribbing [for her pleasure I'm sure] that would really help the hose clamp stay put but I think the tubing was allowing them to slide over the ridges. I was thinking one of these things might really be ideal but not sure if I could find one the right size:

And there are hitches [knots] that are good for that kind of thing, like self-tightening, if I can't get the hose clamp and wire to work. I had doctor appointment today but they cancelled on me so I'm off to the Home Depot to see what I can find. You think smaller hose clamps would be better? Performance wise I mean, at this point, appearance isn't a concern though I am trying to figure out a way to get duct tape involved or else it just won't seem a proper repair.

 

[ericm979]

Maybe you could use stainless safety wire to grip the housing and keep it from pulling out. I'd use .035 or .040 wire and twist the heck out of it with safety wire pliers to get it tight on the housing, then run the wires up to the threaded part and tie them off around it. Then do that a few more times. The hard part would be to get the wire tight. But if you backed off the adjuster on the valve first then you could tighten it after doing up the wires.

 

[Cougsfan]

I am trying to figure out a way to get duct tape involved or else it just won't seem a proper repair.

 

[Popgadget]

A crimper like this would likely work in place. I have made identical repairs with one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QVBD6VM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WBDQA6B104MJS6C4C1VD

 

[Cougsfan]

You are right, if it were to be crimped it would take a circular crimper that crimps the entire circumference. That particular crimper's largest die is a 2/0 AWG which is slightly over 3/8" which is much too small for this sleeve. Perhaps a hydraulic shop could re-crimp it? That sleeve is pretty darn solid though, I am not sure even a hydraulic hose crimper would work.

 

[mechtheist]

Thanks again for all the input. Crimping might still be an option, Popgadget, that looks like a good tool for a great price, but I still have to get the cable out of the valve...

Yesterday I wired and turnbuckled and hose clamped and got nowhere. With it wired up as best I could I tried grabbing on to the sheath and trying to shove it in as it was getting shoved out and the way it felt made me think there just wasn't any way it was gonna work, like the control 'rod' and sheathing were one piece, not any play at all, solid. That made me think maybe there's something going on at the valve end like maybe it was frozen or ??? So I had to do what I maybe should have done from the beginning--take the cable off the valve and all I can say is ef me! See all the pics.


I took the plate with the red hashes off and even unbolted the valve body but that really didn't buy me much room. The thing behind the cables is the large upright support for the loader and has a large gusset in back. I didn't even know until messing with this that that's part of the fuel tank there to the left of the valve.

Two of the 3 bolts holding the valve on with the one having some weird corrosion, I assume it's water getting in there?

Below is what I'm looking at trying to remove the cables, I managed to get the allen screws out of that collar thing but it was not easy and I was lucky they were not very tight. That was the end of the luck. See below pix. I know I'm not much of a mechanic but I don't see how anyone could remove the control cables without unhooking the two hydraulic cables that are perfectly placed to thwart that. The Short Line video is great for showing what to do but nothing needed a wrench and here I need two and can't get one in there. Am I missing something? The number of folks here talking about removing their cables didn't mention having to get the hydraulic lines out of the way, is that something specific to the 3520?

They're not QD so I'm looking at some hydraulic fluid loss, right? The top line is the one to the rear hydraulics and the other is to the drain. The drain would go the tank which is lower and shouldn't siphon but I'm not sure about coming from the rear valve, how much would flow from there and if I kept the end up would that minimize fluid loss to some percentage of what's in the line? It's about time to change all my fluids and I'm getting a diverter valve multiplier thing for a hydraulic top link and maybe something else [am going to post a thread about that soon] so I can do all of this at same time and not worry about fluid loss.

The last 2 photos show more weird corrosion on the couplers on the line to the rears. I didn't notice until I looked at the pictures but if that isn't maybe plant matter that got caught up in there, then what is that? It's the same color as the corroded bits.

Still not sure what I'll find with the cable fault, hoping it's not the valve as that's likely to get ugly. I'll probably buy a new cable since I've gone this far. eriicm979, now that I've gotten a lot more familiar with all of this, that cable might be long enough, if not, it won't be all that much shorter than what I'll need.

Ah well, Onward Thru the Fog! And thanks for all the help.

 

[LouNY]

When you get the jam nut on the top of that sleeve loosened, then unscrew the nut till it will slide along the cable.
Then sleeve will then unscrew back away from the valve and over the cable also to expose how the inner cable is secured to the valve spool.

 

[mechtheist]

When? It's more like 'how'. I can't get two hands in there, can't get two wrenches, unless it's finger tight, which it didn't seem to be, it's not gonna happen without more access. If I try to turn it, the whole assembly rotates fairly easily. I'm basically resigned to having to remove at least one probably two and maybe all 3 of the non-QD hydraulic lines, I'm just not very happy about it. I'm figuring it's going to be very messy and there'll be no end to the expletives.