Loader joystick cable break

[mechtheist]

You can see the problem in the photo, it's a 3520H. It's the bucket control line, I can curl in but not out, at least I don't have to worry about the bucket falling to the ground.

OK, this may be a monumentally stupid question. I've read a number of threads here about replacing the cable and it seems like it ain't exactly a piece of cake. Considering what you can see here, would it be possible to weld the thing well enough to work? I have no experience with this stuff so please don't laugh too much if that's an idiotic idea. The last 4 or 5 times I had the tractor out, the joystick was kinda stuck, didn't want to move to the right to curl out, and I sorta hit it, with my hand and not very hard at all, and that freed it. I should have stopped using it and figured out what was going on.... Thanks for any info.

 

[K5lwq]

That is unfortunate for sure. I can not think of a good way to fix that cable. Replacing the cable may be somewhat of a pain but I think less of a pain than trying to fix that one.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

I think welding it would do more harm than good.

I don't think the rest of that area would take well to that much heat being applied there.

 

[mechtheist]

It would just be the cable ends getting hot. From another thread, Cougsfan posted this photo. My thinking was to just turn eveerything right at the junction of the end piece and the cable into one chunk of metal. And add in the usual massive grinding that comes with being the expert welder that I am.

 

[FastEddieR]

solder it in, and recrimp the fitting. That's what I would try before replacing it.

 

[Popgadget]

I would just put it back together and crimp it. But I have the tools to do it.

 

[mechtheist]

Thanks for the replies. I have this thing that's for crimping huge electric wires, could you do an adequate job with that?

I haven't taken it apart yet so I'm not even sure what the cable end looks like. Is the threaded part attached with some kind of sleeve to be crimped or is it one piece and is it a standard that can be purchased?

 

[Cougsfan]

Maybe solder then try to crimp. As you already know, I had the same thing happen on my 4720. Under warranty they sent me an entire joystick with the cables attached, which, I was told is the only way they sell it (Around $450 if I remember right), so it it definitely worth a try to fix it. To replace the cable is one of those chores if you have done it once, it is cumbersome but not too bad. If you are trying to figure it out for the first time, the connections at the bottom end of the cable are confusing and not intuitive at all, not to mention hard to get to.
The threaded part attaches to the cable via a crimped sleeve. The metal on the sleeve is pretty tough so crimping may be difficult, which is why I suggest soldering first. I don't think it takes too much to hold it. I actually used several plastic ties jury rigged to hold the cable into the sleeve which got me by until the warranty replacement item came.

 

[Cougsfan]

I just went out and checked. I actually used a tiny hose clamp around the cable, with wire connected to 2 ea light weight turnbuckles (one on each side), that were secured with wire to the joystick base for my temporary solution. It worked just fine. I do still have a spare cable now, but it is for a 4720ch which may be a different length. I'd still suggest trying to solder it first, as changing the entire cable is a pain. Remember, you are only trying to secure the outer shield. The inner cable must slide freely. Over crimping may cause the inner cable to not be able to slide.

 

[ptsg]

Doesn't these cables have some sort of nylon or teflon tubing inside to help reduce the friction of the cable? I wonder if any heat will make a mess of everything that is plastic or rubber.